equi trek trailer tyre pressure

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Trailer Tire Inflation and PSI

If my load range E tires have a Max PSI of 80 what PSI should I use for every day hauling? Two horse trailer and I only haul one horse.

Clarification - The question relates to the trailer tires.

Higher PSI means better mileage and better tire wear (less side wall flex, etc.). But it also means a stiffer ride.

You can run in the 60 psi range without issue, AFAIK. You might want to check with your local tire shop and see what they have to say.

What is your trailer labeled? The required PSI for my trailer tires is on the sticker that is right behind the tongue.

I adjust pressure according to tire wear. Start at max and if the tire wears more in the center, back off until it’s okay. If you start with less, and the tire wears on the outside more, you don’t have enough pressure. The last two sets of Michei tires I’ve had on the D/A dually lasted for 115,000 miles. I pull all sorts of things but don’t vary pressure. My back tires run at 70, and front at 80 since they wear first on the outsides anyway. Longevity comes from rotation with six in the mix.

FWIW- I contacted my tire manufacturer after my local tire company told me to underinflate my tires by 30lbs! That was obviously stupid, so I emailed the manufacturer. They said to always inflate them to the max.

I have different plans for longevity than the manufacturers.

[QUOTE=Tom King;8352394] I have different plans for longevity than the manufacturers.[/QUOTE]

I just learned the hard way about tire pressure. I noticed the middle wearing down on the rears of my truck. It seems I’ve been driving them overinflated as I’ve been using the truck empty or for short/light hauls but running the tires at full pressure. Won’t make that mistake again.

You bring up rotation. On dually that’s a critical item. I do it every 7500 miles or so and do the six tire rotation. Is there any reason to include (or reason not to include) the spare?

I don’t keep up with the mileage, but I doubt I rotate any more frequently than 20 or 30 k. The fronts wear on the outside fastest of any, but still not THAT fast. When I see the little grooves on the outside lugs wearing down, they get switched to the back, and a back pair moved up front. The back four wear pretty evenly. I might do three or four rotations before they are worn enough to serve on a utility trailer, but not completely worn out.

I never think about the spare.

and they still need replacing every five years if trailer kept uot in the sun. We don’t put enough miles on our trailer to wear out the tyres, but replace them anyway.

[QUOTE=Tom King;8352136] I adjust pressure according to tire wear. Start at max and if the tire wears more in the center, back off until it’s okay. If you start with less, and the tire wears on the outside more, you don’t have enough pressure. The last two sets of Michei tires I’ve had on the D/A dually lasted for 115,000 miles. I pull all sorts of things but don’t vary pressure. My back tires run at 70, and front at 80 since they wear first on the outsides anyway. Longevity comes from rotation with six in the mix.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for that. That was something I hadn’t even thought of.

… is this 80 PSI when the tire is cold or hot??

I always check PSI with tires cold.

[QUOTE=clanter;8353451] … is this 80 PSI when the tire is cold or hot??[/QUOTE]

Unless you’re on a racetrack, it’s cold pressure. This time of year you’ll need to add air to make up for the overall lower temperature.

As far as inflation pressure, I run mine mostly near the max. I’m not constantly adjusting tire pressure from trip to trip, and so I’d rather keep my tires at their maximum load capacity at all times. I’ll let the trailer suspension do the cushioning.

I don’t adjust and readjust either, once I find what works in general for a trailer or truck, or car.

i always inflate within 5-10lbs less than the max cold psi.

When people say “max” are they referring to the max psi on the tire or on the trailer? My trailer says 60 psi on a tab on the tongue but my tires themselves say 80 psi max on the sidewall. I run them at 60 but honestly this had always confused me!

[QUOTE=mbv;8356142] When people say “max” are they referring to the max psi on the tire or on the trailer? My trailer says 60 psi on a tab on the tongue but my tires themselves say 80 psi max on the sidewall. I run them at 60 but honestly this had always confused me![/QUOTE]

It’s what’s on the tire that counts.

IIRC the max pressure rated is when the tire is cold. It’s my understanding that tires are engineered to safely handle the higher pressure that might develop on a hot day at high speed.

Is the max pressure the optimum pressure? Maybe so and maybe not; it depends on that your doing and where you’re doing it. Tom’s given some pretty good advice.

^ correct with a bit of context:

• I always use the max pressure on a trailer tire. You can use less in some cases, but it’s not practical for most of us so the max pressure is safest.
• On a towing vehicle, inflate to the pressure on the sticker on the door but check that it’s the same or lower than the max on the tire. The tire max marking should be the same or slightly higher. Also compare the load rating of the tire to the door sticker - again it should be the same or slightly higher.
• On a passenger vehicle, inflate to the pressure of the sticker on the door. It should less than the tire max, and often is much less than the tire max. That’s ok - don’t use the tire max pressure in your car unless you like getting your fillings re-done.

We don’t inflate our tires to the max for reasons mentioned here plus we live on rocky roads and a drum-tight tire is more likely to get a puncture.

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What PSI Should My Trailer Tires Be At? [Equestrian Guide]

I know both over-inflated tires and underinflated tires can become a problem, so at one point, I also wanted to know what PSI my trailer’s tires should be at, what the tire pressure for horse trailer should be.

This depends on your tire’s maximum pressure capacity. This information will be published on the tire sidewall. 

Check the sidewall and carry out the tire inflation accordingly. 

Table of Contents

What Does PSI Mean?

Don’t worry if you haven’t quite grasped what PSI means. This term refers to the minimum and maximum air pressure in your tires required to uphold your vehicle when it reaches its maximum load capacity.

This means that the PSI basically measures how little air you need for the tires to function when your trailer is carrying the max load or is at its heaviest.

I didn’t know this at first, but the tire pressure can and will change with the weather, especially in colder climates or winter weather—Tire pressure changes by 1 PSI with every 10-degree Fahrenheit change in temperature. [1]

It also changes when the tires heat up because air pressure rises when the tires become hot.

The PSI is determined by the load capacity of the tires, wear and tear, traction, load capacity, and ride performance.

Most trailers come with a sticker or chart explaining the required PSI and the size dimensions of the different tires. With second-hand trailers, owners can sometimes change the originals to less expensive tires so you might need tire professionals to check your vehicle out. 

However, there’s another vital piece of information you need to know if you’re doing this on your own and not consulting tire vendors or professionals. 

The PSI on the tire’s sidewall isn’t a recommendation for just how much air pressure your tires need. It’s an instruction about how much pressure the tire can withstand. 

It isn’t always best to inflate your tire to the maximum capacity. 

Why Is Maintaining My Tire’s Pressure Important? 

It is necessary that you maintain correct tire pressure according to the information that will be permanently embedded onto your tire’s sidewall.

Meeting the requirements for your tire’s optimum pressure would lead to optimum function. Heavy trailer weights ensure you would need to maintain air pressure to prevent accidents on the road. 

Your tire inflation needs to match with the vehicle you’re driving, in this case, a trailer. Here’s an example to put things into perspective. 

Imagine you have a single-axle trailer with tires at a maximum PSI, whatever the weight of the trailer. The maximum PSI will carry a specific load weight. 

Reducing the tire pressure to a lower PSI will lower their capacity to carry heavier loads. [2]

Underinflation

Underinflation will lead to tire failure and reduce tire life. It will also impact the fuel efficiency of your vehicle. 

This is because the engine will have to put in more work to move the weight, thus consuming more fuel. 

Underinflation will also give your tires more room to flex, thus creating hot tires. 

It creates greater friction and increases the amount of tire touching the road. While the tread center is affected more by overinflation, reduced pressure causes greater tire wear on the edges. 

Try watching this YouTube video guide for some great tips on tire maintenance and checking air pressure. 

Overinflation 

Similarly, overinflation will lead to excessive wear and make them more prone to damage. It will lead to a bumpy and harsh ride. 

This is because excessive air pressure causes the rounding out of the outer tread pattern. This leads to premature wear of the tire’s center. 

This uneven wear of the tread center contributes to less control over the vehicle, which could ultimately mean the difference between life and death. 

Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems

Did you know most cars come with a preinstalled tire pressuring monitoring system, also known as a TPMS? They can tell you the maximum tire pressure, overinflation, and temperature and basically provide an overview of your tire. 

You can also buy a wireless tire pressuring monitoring system so you’re always aware of what’s happening with the tires in case prompt action is required. A TPMS was made to curb avoidable accidents. 

Related: How to Prevent Dry Rot on Trailer Tires ?

Frequently Asked Questions

 how much air do i put in my travel trailer tires .

There should be a sticker on your trailer that should guide you about this. However, the sidewall information is the maximum amount of cold pressure the tire can withstand, not necessarily an instruction for inflation. 

How hot should my travel trailer tires get?

Once you’ve begun to travel and are well on your way, the temperature of your tires will likely rise to 158 degrees Fahrenheit. However, this temperature will vary according to speed and your driving preferences, style, and weight capacity of the tires. 

Why do my trailer tires keep blowing out?  

This is usually the result of overheating or building up of heat. Some common reasons your tires are liable to overheat are underinflation and overloaded tires. 

Conclusion 

I certainly figured out what PSI my trailer tries should be, and I hope you have too! 

Remember always to be safe rather than sorry, and put in the work it takes to ensure your ride is smooth, your tires road savvy, and the pressure maintained. 

References: 

1. Proper Tire Inflation & Tire Pressure Information & Tips [Internet]. www.bridgestoneamericas.com. [cited 2022 Oct 27]. Available from: https://www.bridgestoneamericas.com/en/company/safety/maintaining-tires/tire-inflation#:~:text=PSI%20refers%20to%20the%20minimum

2. leviathan. Proper Boat Trailer Tire Pressure [Internet]. Boating Mag. 2017 [cited 2022 Oct 27]. Available from: https://www.boatingmag.com/properly-inflating-boat-trailer-tires/

Bryanna is a 23-year-old Florida-based Grade 1 Para-dressage rider based in Florida and she has been riding for 5 years. Horses are her passion and her ultimate goal is to be selected for the US Para-Equestrian Team and represent the US at the Paralympics. She rides at Quantum Leap Farm and Emerald M Therapeutic Riding Center and her equine partners are Shane, an American Paint Horse, and Cappy a Welsh x Thoroughbred. When she is not helping at the barn, riding, or training, she is learning about horses, writing articles about them, and using her social media platforms to raise awareness for therapeutic riding and para-equestrianism, shares her journey, and advocates for greater inclusion of para-equestrian in the media and equestrian sport at large. Follow on INSTAGRAM and FACEBOOK Read her Latest articles Learn more about HER

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Buyer’s guide to horse trailers

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Having your own equine transport can make all the difference to your life with horses. It gives you the freedom to go wherever you like — clinics, camps, competitions, you name it. But transport doesn’t come cheap, so do your homework before you buy.

No longer the poor relation of the horsebox, trailers now offer everything from streamlined bodies for easy towing, state of the art suspension systems for a comfortable ride, to live-in accommodation and much more.

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• Ensure all tyres are in good condition and their pressure is correct
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• Ask to see any paperwork relating to servicing or repairs.

Read the BHS’s advice for buying a secondhand trailer  here .

Shop for a trailer

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Cheval Liberté Touring Country trailer

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Equi-Trek Night-Treka trailer

Equi-Trek Night-Treka

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Unladen weight: 1,195kg (dependent on final specification)

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Ifor Williams HBX511 trailer

Ifor Williams HBX511

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Bateson Deauville trailer

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Fautras Oblic + 2 trailer

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Essential Horsebox Safety Checks

Essential Horsebox Safety Checks to Perform Now

Are your horsebox safety checks wrote down on a notepad, ready to tick off? As we are primed for life on the road with our horses once again, now more than ever is the time to make sure your horsebox is safe and ready to go.

Restrictions came into force just as we were coming out of winter, a period where many horseboxes and trailers are redundant due to weather conditions and less time spent in the saddle. Where they are stored away for long periods of time, often in damp conditions or worse bracing the elements for months at a time, problems can occur which are best ironed out before even attempting to load a horse, let alone head out onto the road.

With this in mind, and with the lockdown prolonging periods of inactivity for horseboxes and trailers, Tom Janion, Managing Director of Equi-Trek provides a safety checklist to tick off before loading up your horse and heading off.

• Is the MOT on your horsebox up-to-date? This could easily have been forgotten about with the distractions of the past few months. The same applies to the vehicle with which you plan to use to tow a trailer.
• The most common issue on a vehicle that has not been run for a while is a flat battery. Make sure you start the engine to ensure it strikes up the first time.
• Ensure the tread on the tyres meets the minimum legal requirement and also check the tyre pressure. Perished and cracked tyres are very common and it is important to ensure the tread is to the legal guidelines. Both are dangerous and will lead to MOT failure.  Correct tyre pressure for each individual horsebox or trailer can be found in the manufacturer’s handbook.
• Check all the electrics are in good working order by enlisting the help of a friend to observe that all the lights and indicators are fully functioning. Sometimes connections can become loose or wires worn over time.
• All horse owners know the dangers of an unsafe floor. Equi-Trek horseboxes and trailers come with aluminium planked floor as standard but some horseboxes and trailers may still have old-fashioned wooden floors. It is vital to check for signs of rot and damage by lifting up rubber matting to inspect underneath.
• Check that there are no sharp or protruding objects and that all the pins in the partitions and breast bars are positioned correctly. In an emergency it should be quick and easy to remove these pins.
• The jockey wheel on a trailer should be regularly maintained by applying a light coating of grease but it is important to check it is working effectively before every journey.
• To make sure that your day out at a show is complete it is a good idea to check everything is working in the living area. Not being able to cook a well-earned bacon sandwich after competing because the hob isn’t working would be a huge disappointment!

All horseboxes run better when they are used on a regular basis so it is worthwhile keeping this simple check list to hand to work through every few weeks. Similarly, get your horsebox or trailer serviced on a regular basis.  All Equi-Trek dealers offer a full-service facility and don’t forget mechanical, body and living accommodation checks including water and gas systems.

To discover more about the range of Equi-Trek range of horseboxes and trailers visit Equi-trek .

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Equi Trek ramp problems

• Thread starter kal40
• Start date 29 May 2017
• 29 May 2017

Well-Known Member

Hi there I love my ET trailer and horse travels really well in it. Unfortunately, despite very light usage, it seems as if the ramp is starting to rot at one side. Trailer is only 7 years old and like I said, really lightly used so I am a bit disappointed. I'm debating about what to do - has anyone had a new ramp fitted on a Space Trekka L or perhaps had it repaired? Just wondering ball park figures of how much it would cost. Places to get it seen to are few and far between near me so even getting a quote would be a full day's outing. Thanks in advance for your replies.  

I used to be decisive, now I'm not so sure...

Hi, I don't have one myself, but I have seen people write about similar problems on forums before. Maybe search on here?  

I have had a rummage on old threads and found this about a ramp. nikkiw21 image: http://www.horseandhound.co.uk/forums/images/statusicon_hh/user-offline.png Join Date Apr 2015 Posts 2 image: http://www.horseandhound.co.uk/forums/images/icons/icon1.png Re: Equi Trek problems hi, I know its been a few years since this last posting about Equitrek trailers but we are having a nightmare with ours....faulty matting on the ramp that bubbled after a few months of use (trailer brand new when we bought it in 2011). Equitrek refused to repair/replace. Now, with the same 4.5 year old trailer we have had a severe ramp issue. As I unloaded my 16.2hh v calm horse, as he placed his foot at the top of the trailer to unload, there was a very loud cracking and the wood underneath the matting gave way. Thankfully the matting held in one place but we were left with a huge dip in it. The ramp floor has given way. Equitrek are saying that it will cost £450 to replace the ramp, that it must somehow by my fault and that it is no longer covered by its warranty (that is only one year). For those of us who own Equitrek trailers, we know that they are a huge investment to buy and I am shocked by their reaction to this potentially very dangerous situation. they seem so keen to blame the owner. Now their one and only repair guy has left the company and I have a trailer sitting in the yard, totally unusable and at the busiest time with the eventing season now underway. please can anyone share their problems and how they resolved them??? I'd be so grateful. Read more at http://www.horseandhound.co.uk/foru...-Equi-Trek-problems/page2#q2kmU5Yap7blfsdT.99 Also... I had an Equitrek trailer Space Trekker L and had to replace the ramp as it rotted. I was advised by the trailer repair company this was a common known fault as water seeps in at the top of the ramp unless the trailer is stored under cover and needs replacing every 3 years. I see that roof covers are now available for sale to protect this area. I now have a Super Sonic lorry and as yet no major issues apart from a gripe about the poor wheel arch design in the box. Read more at http://www.horseandhound.co.uk/foru...-Equi-Trek-problems/page2#q2kmU5Yap7blfsdT.99 And... When you say the ramp failed do you mean the whole ramp or the wooden top section, just under the rubber? My friend's horese cracked the wooden section of the ramp (or crumbled it rather as it was rotten) but the ramp itself was fine. She had the wooden section replaced but it happened again fairly soon after. Apparently where the ramp closes onto the trailer it can leak and the water drips down between the rubber top and the wood, hence the wood rotting. After it happened the second time, the garage that fixed it the first time replaced it free of charge and made sure they sealed between the rubber and the wood really well. It's not happened again in 3 or 4 years. Apart from this, I really like Equitreks. I've towed my friend's big one with living (can't remember the name!) which is heavy but you barely notice you're towing it even with 2 big horses on board. My horse who can stumble now and again on my IWT doesn't move on it and loads much better onto it as well. The storage is really useful. The only thing that would annoy me in terms of managing it on a daily basis is the tyre pressures are really high (on the big one anyway, not sure about the space/show trekas, and most garages' air machines don't go that high. I had to take it to a tyre place and put a few quid in their tips pot for them to pump them up for me. I suppose you could get your own compressor but I imagine it would need to be a pretty hefty one to get the pressures you need. I still want to replace my 510 with a Space Trekka though....when I have the money. Read more at http://www.horseandhound.co.uk/foru...hts-on-equi-trek-trailers#lPeOaCplsUwlBumf.99 There were other reported problems with a floor and a horse ending up in the kitchen as well as some axle issues and a breast bar bolt pulled through the wall.  

I'm away to replace the ramp on mine (12yrs old) and have been told approx £400 including new rubber.  

My friends had hers reboarded twice in a short period of time, hers is a 2006 I think... and I think it was something to do with what Red-1 found, as in the water getting in somehow at the top and rotting it. They smothered it in some water repellent treatment on the 2nd fix and its been fine since. Ive just bought a 2006 from a dealership that looks practically unused, even smells new, looks like the ramp has definately been redone recently too.  

Easier approach would be to re-board in buffalo board and top with heavy and hairy contract carpet... Springs might need easing off as will be lighter without rubber.  

Identityincrisis

A couple of years ago my EquiTrek Space Treka L ramp rotted and I had it repaired. Although the floor in the horse area of these trailers is aluminium, the tack room floor is plywood. In mine, that was rotten too. I lost confidence in the trailer and although it was only 8 years old I was too worried to sell it on to someone unsuspecting. I traded it in with a dealer for an Ifor Williams Eventa. From experience I can confirm that although the the design of these trailers is clever, EquiTrek are very poor at maintaining customer relations. If you're buying one second hand, please check the ramp and tack room floor - they're made of plywood which rots and you could fall through!  

• 30 May 2017

Thanks for the replies everyone. Red-1 - From the posts you found, it sounds like I am having the same problems. I think it is the wood under the rubber matting that has gone soft. My Dad said he thought it would have been water getting in and it would appear it is the same problem. I've read other posts about ET not being helpful but I really like the trailer and my horse travels really well in it. She is a big cob and although she went in to my sisters IW 511 on Sunday when we tried her, getting her out wan't as easy - the ramp is a lot narrower. I rang ET and asked about repair centres in my area and it took a week for them to call me back. Customer service really isn't their strong point! I expected the cost of repairs to be much higher so I think I will get it repaired and perhaps get a cover for it. Thanks again everyone.  

kal40 said: Thanks for the replies everyone. Red-1 - From the posts you found, it sounds like I am having the same problems. I think it is the wood under the rubber matting that has gone soft. My Dad said he thought it would have been water getting in and it would appear it is the same problem. I've read other posts about ET not being helpful but I really like the trailer and my horse travels really well in it. She is a big cob and although she went in to my sisters IW 511 on Sunday when we tried her, getting her out wan't as easy - the ramp is a lot narrower. I rang ET and asked about repair centres in my area and it took a week for them to call me back. Customer service really isn't their strong point! I expected the cost of repairs to be much higher so I think I will get it repaired and perhaps get a cover for it. Thanks again everyone. Click to expand...

if its just the boarding (under the rubber) its a very simple fix that took us about 2 hrs to do (we are not amazing DIY'er) and about £60 is external ply wood. its really straightforward.  

• 20 November 2017

Chloeuu said: [ Content removed ] Click to expand...

Chloeuu said: Oh I am sorry (not) .... forgive me for trying to warn people so they don't make the same mistake. You clearly don't have a heart! Click to expand...

I have an Equitrek trailer which had it’s ramp replaced 3 1/2 years ago. The ramp is now rotting and needs to be repaired or replaced. Equitrek told me that this was due to either excessive wear and tear or water damage either way I would have to pay for it. I don’t know what their definition of excessive wear and tear is but I wouldn’t expect the ramp to deteriorate so quickly requiring substantial repair or replacement in 3 1/2 years. This suggests very poor materials and poor build quality. I have since discovered they use 12mm plywood on the ramp which seems completely inadequate. In fact I would argue that it is not fit for purpose. If the damage is due to water then again it suggests poor build quality allowing water in. Equitrek again except no responsibility and would expect me to pay for this. It is very disappointing to look at posts going back to 2007 on this site with the same complaints and problems and still Equitrek are not listening or changing their practice.  

We had very poor responses from Equitrek when we had our Showtrekka. It was brand new at the time, been out once, and they tried to claim it was our problem. The Dealer sorted it for us as their expense but we traded it for an Ifor very soon afterwards. We found that whoever was on the end of their phone was extremely rude and absolutely would not be told that there was a problem.  

Onlywayisup

HHas anyone had experience of  

Onlywayisup said: HHas anyone had experience of Click to expand...

Elf On A Shelf

They aren't known as Equi-Trash for no reason ...  

I have a show trekka. It has had a lot of use over the years (I think it’s 2008). I get it serviced annually, and replaced the ramp two years ago. I went to a local Horseboxes maker and got them to do it. They fully sealed the new ramp and it looks like new still. From memory it was £300. The next bit I need to watch is the flooring in the living, but so far it’s holding up. because I bought it as an older second hand one, I’ve not tried their customer service, and just used local people. I’m pleased with mine, and really don’t feel it has any more issues than any other make of similar age and use.  

• 10 May 2021

HJE said: I have an Equitrek trailer which had it’s ramp replaced 3 1/2 years ago. The ramp is now rotting and needs to be repaired or replaced. Equitrek told me that this was due to either excessive wear and tear or water damage either way I would have to pay for it. I don’t know what their definition of excessive wear and tear is but I wouldn’t expect the ramp to deteriorate so quickly requiring substantial repair or replacement in 3 1/2 years. This suggests very poor materials and poor build quality. I have since discovered they use 12mm plywood on the ramp which seems completely inadequate. In fact I would argue that it is not fit for purpose. If the damage is due to water then again it suggests poor build quality allowing water in. Equitrek again except no responsibility and would expect me to pay for this. It is very disappointing to look at posts going back to 2007 on this site with the same complaints and problems and still Equitrek are not listening or changing their practice. Click to expand...

• 25 May 2021

Good to hear that you have had it successfully repaired. An independent garage is repairing mine by replacing the plywood with aluminiu. I shouldn’t have any problems.?  

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NIGHT-TREKA

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The Night-Treka living area is complete with a bench seat which converts into two sleeping bunks, wardrobe, stainless-steel sink with gas hob and a water carrier, along with a fold down table to eat meals at.

The woodfree structure and light weight composite panels for lighter weight, 7ft 9inch headroom with fully enclosed travel and low wide ramp, makes this the number one choice for the discerning owner.

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