how to visit smith island md

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How to Visit Smith Island, Maryland

Featured , travel, july 7, 2019.

Smith Island is a little island in the middle of the Chesapeake with a population of about 300. Most people on the island work as watermen, and make their living commercial harvesting crabs, fish, oysters, and other creatures from the Bay. Smith Island is also famous for its 9 layer Smith Island Cake, which is delicious, but more on that later.

Here is a general information for visiting Smith Island .

Crab shanty in Ewell, Smith Island

Visiting Smith Island is like stepping back in time and into another way of life. Everything is slower and centers around the waterman lifestyle. I highly recommend a visit, but the logistics can be a little complicated.

Here is everything you need to know to visit Smith Island:

Getting to and from Smith Island

Smith Island is only accessible by boat, and you must take a ferry from Crisfield, Maryland to the island. Due to the ferry schedule, you pretty much have to spend at least one night on the island. There is only one guaranteed ferry that leaves Crisfield and goes to Smith Island every day at exactly 12:30 pm, and one ferry that leaves Smith Island and goes to Crisfield every day at 7:30 am. I found that one day on the island was enough, so I recommend taking the 12:30 pm ferry to Smith Island, spending the night, and then taking the 7:30 am ferry back to Crisfield the next morning. Here is a link to information about ferries . Here is another link to ferry information .

This is the red Captain Jason ferry that you take from Crisfield, MD to Smith Island.

To get to the Crisfield dock, follow Route 413 to Crisfield Maryland. Take route 413 to the end which will bring you directly to the Crisfield City Dock. Park in the JP Tawes Lumber parking lot, which is the tan building with an orange roof. There is a dropbox in the front, where you are supposed to place an envelope with $3/night.

After you park, walk back to the dock and look for the Captain Jason, which is a red boat. The ferry costs $20/person each way, and the captain only accepts cash. He will depart at 12:30 pm SHARP, so make sure you are on the boat in time! The ferry ride itself takes about 40 minutes, and you can see birds in the marsh along the way. I also recommend eating lunch in Crisfield before taking the ferry.

Where to stay

There are a few places to stay on the island, including the Smith Island Inn and a few Airbnbs. The Smith Island Inn also offers “ cottages ” to rent, which are houses. When I visited Smith Island, we stayed at an Airbnb called Oysterman’s Pearl. The house is now managed by Smith Inn.

There are three towns on the island: Ewell, Rhodes Point, and Tylerton. Ewell is the main town on the island, and I recommend staying there, as Rhodes Point is rather away down a long narrow road and Tylerton is only accessible by boat. Most inns and Airbnbs are within a short walk or drive from the ferry dock. Try to find a place that includes bikes and kayaks. If your accommodation doesn’t include bikes, you can rent bikes at a rental place right next to the dock.

We stayed in a house called Oysterman’s Pearl that is now managed by Smith Island Inn.

What to do on the Island

The island is small, but is worth exploring! Our Airbnb included bikes, and we easily biked everywhere on the island Here is what we did:

Smith Island Cultural Center This little museum gives you a nice history of the island and shares stories about the culture of Smith Island. The museum is open from 10am-4pm, so I recommend starting here.

Visit the Smith Island Cultural Center to learn the history of the island.

Inside the Smith Island Cultural Center.

Biking We literally biked every road on the island. Make sure you bike all the way out to Rhodes Point, which is a more remote area of the island with more shanties and boat docks. If the road is flooded over, just bike through the water. We also biked around Ewell.

The only road that goes from Ewell to Rhodes Point

Bike to Rhodes Point

You’ll see more crab shanties in Rhodes Point.

Kayaking Several accommodations on the island include kayaks, and we took our own sunset paddle, which was awesome. Kayaking gives you a different perspective of the island, and allows you a closer look at the many cab shanties around the shore of the island. You can kayak all the way around Goat Island, which is the island directly across from Smith Island. You may even see some actual goats! We stayed out on the water until sunset, which was beautiful.

Take a paddle at sunset.

View of a crab shanty from a kayak.

While I didn’t do it, you can also take a boat tour around the island. Tim Marshall seemed to be a popular guide.

Make sure you eat at least one slice of Smith Island cake! Slices of cake are available at almost all restaurants on the island, and it’s easy to grab a slice. The cake comes in several flavors, but we tried Devil’s Food at the Bayside Inn Restaurant, and it was delicious. You can also get Smith Island cake on the mainland, from Smith Island Baking Company, but you can easily get it on the island too.

You MUST try Smith Island Cake while on the island.

Things to know

Smith Island is an interesting place. Here are some important things to know:

Some establishments on the island only accept cash, and there are no ATMs on the island. Get cash before you go.
The restaurants close early, sometimes as early as 4 pm. Look up hours before you go and make sure you have a pan to eat dinner.
Bring bug spray.
The grocery store on the island is limited, so bring your own snacks and toiletries.

That’s it! While it may seem a little complicated, visiting Smith Island isn’t too hard, and definitely worth the effort.

More Photos

The road to Rhodes Point sometimes floods, but you can bike through the water!

There are tons of birds on the island.

Marsh views on the road to Rhodes Point.

Watermen out in the Chesapeake Bay.

Views from the road to Rhodes Point.

Walking on the pier in Ewell

Hanging out on the pier in Ewell

A crab shanty at dusk

Oyster shells on the ground

Boats docked in Ewell

On the ferry ride back to Crisfield, you may share the ferry with live softshell crabs.

You have great views of the marsh from the ferry.

A waterman out on the bay.

Seagull in the bay.

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17 Things to do on Smith Island, Maryland

Post author: Cecilia
Post published:
Post category: Bucket List Experiences / North America

Smith Island is an archipelago located approximately 10 miles off the coast of Crisfield, Maryland. With a population of around 276 people (2010 census) spread over 4.5 square miles of habitable land space, you might think that there is nothing to do. However, adventure is all in the eyes of the beholder. The island is a playground for the curious explorer and nature lover. There are countless things to do on Smith Island.

Before I get into all the cool activities, which is why you are reading this article, it is important for visitors to know that Smith Island is a place of residence, not a tourist attraction. Villagers are not interested in attracting tourists to their island with fancy tours, trendy food, and boutique shops, they are just living their lives and welcoming you to experience it. When you arrive, engage with the community, appreciate the small things in life, and enjoy each moment. That’s what it is all about.

We spent three days on Smith Island, kayaking between the three towns of Ewell, Rhode’s Point, and Tylerton. During our time there we had the opportunity to speak with watermen, innkeepers, and island women who would bake Smith Island cakes, the official dessert of Maryland.

Here are some of the highlights of our trip as well as other popular things to do on Smith Island.

Things to do on Smith Island

Kayak around the creeks and inlets surrounding the island.

Smith Island is a kayaker’s dream. To put this in perspective, Smith Island is about 9.2 square feet, 4.5 of which is land and the remainder of which is comprised of marshy waterways and inlets. Take your kayak down to the remote village of Tylerton (about a 2.25 trip) or just paddle through the “guts” of the island among tall grass and wild birds. Paddle Smith Island has a great kayaking guide and map outlining recommended routes along Smith Island.

Kayakers be warned, the waterways are highly subject to the daily tides. While we were paddling along the Tylerton-Ewell Run route at sunset, the water quickly began to recede. We were forced farther and farther away from the shore where the water was deep enough for us to continue on. Luckily we made it back, but always be conscious of wind and tide when planning your trip.

Visit the Smith Island Crabmeat Co-op

While you are down at Tylerton, be sure to visit the Smith Island Crabmeat Co-op . This small business was formed by the wives of the watermen who wake up each morning to harvest crab and oysters around the Chesapeake. Unlike most crab processing facilities, this Co-op picks and packages the entire crab in one container – claw, backfin, lumps and all.

Watch through an observation window where the women work side by side to process the freshly caught Maryland crab. You can also pay $3 to enter the main area where crabs are picked clean, giving you the opportunity to ask questions and even sample the freshest crabmeat around.

Try Smith Island Cake

Smith Island Cake, a recipe dating back to the 1800’s, is the official dessert for the state of Maryland . Traditionally, the cake consists of 8-10 thin layers of yellow cake with a fudge frosting slathered between each layer and then coated over the entire cake. New versions have emerged including Devil’s Food cake with dark chocolate fudge frosting and dark chocolate cake with peanut butter fudge frosting.

There are four main eateries on Smith Island: Bayside Inn, Harborside Grocery, Smith Island Bakery, and Drum Point Market. Each has their own recipe made by a different island woman. Try a piece at all four locations and see if you can choose a favorite.

Try the crabcakes

Knowing that the main occupation on the island is crabbing, it only makes sense that you should try the crab cakes at all the eateries including the co-op.

Pro Tip: When you visit Bayside Inn , go all in and order the family-style luncheon. Not only are you served fresh crab cakes, but you are also served the Smith Island stewed tomatoes, a traditional recipe local to the island. I have never had tomatoes cooked like these and they were without a doubt the highlight of the meal.

Admittedly, we tried the fried chicken at Harborside Grocery rather than the crab. They must not be used to people ordering anything other than the crab cakes, because they told us “It will be about an hour for the chicken so that we have time to take it out of the freezer to thaw.” We ended up eating some Smith Island Cake while we waited so it was a win-win situation.

Visit the Smith Island Cultural Center Museum

The Smith Island Cultural Center Museum may be small, but it is well-organized and full of interesting history. Upon entering, you are seated to watch a brief documentary highlighting the history, culture and everyday life on the island. One of the coolest things was actually recognizing some of the people on the video. With Smith Island being only 2 miles long, you run into the same people constantly. Seeing the woman who lent us her bicycle air pump the day prior, now on the screen talking about crabbing was an exciting experience.

Following the video, visitors can take a peek around the museum viewing cultural artifacts and bits of Smith Island history including crabbing items, religious books, and skipjack models.

Send a postcard from the post office

The family-run post office in Ewell is quite possibly one of the smallest and most charming that you will ever see. We were told that mail is delivered by boat twice a day, yet we still couldn’t imagine that there wouldn’t be some sort of delay in the delivery time given the remoteness of Smith Island. We decided to test this theory out and send 2 postcards to my niece and nephew in Virginia. Lo and behold, one postcard arrived 3 days after being sent. The second postcard, which was sent at the same time, arrived about a week later.

Fun fact: the post office is also the only place on the island where you will see a Christmas tree year-round.

Find the hidden beach on the nature reserve

While moseying around Rhode’s Point, the southern tip of the island, we chatted with a local who mentioned a hidden beach on Martin National Wildlife Refuge. We learned that this place is a hidden gem for locals who enjoy packing a picnic and splashing in the water. Having only a kayak and running out of daylight, we did not have the opportunity to search for the beach. If you happen to find this beach, do let us know!

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Visit Goat Island

Biggest regret of the trip? Not visiting goat island! Honestly, we completely forgot that this was a thing. Scott and I love pygmy goats with their cute little hops and tiny legs, so of course we were thrilled to learn that there were over 30 wild goats inhabiting a small piece of land across from Ewell.

Because it is not a formal attraction there is nothing marketing “goat island” so once we were there, it completely slipped our mind. On a side note, this island is actually up for sale. For $1.5 million, you can own a 55-acre island in the Chesapeake, complete with 30 wild goats ready to be your friend.

Get your hair done at the one salon, Island Styles

While relaxing on Smith Island, you might as well pamper yourself with a new ‘do and set of nails. Island Styles is the one and only salon on the island, ready to fulfill all of your beauty needs.

Contact: Laura Evans 410-425-4881 | [email protected]

Visit the antique store

There are no strip malls or trendy boutiques, but there is an antique store. Located steps away from Harborside Grill in Ewell, the shop is owned and operated by a Smith Island resident out of his own home. Step inside and you will find a hodgepodge of miniature collector’s spoons, eclectic furniture, and vintage toys. All prices are negotiable.

Take your bike across the island to Rhode’s Point

Smith Island is a dream for kayakers, but also for bicyclists. With almost no cars on the island, you can enjoy a leisurely bike ride across the island without the fear of being sideswiped by a vehicle. The ride from Ewell to Rhode’s Point is about 2 miles along one flat open road. Most Airbnb’s and Inns have a selection of bicycles and kayaks for guests to use at no cost. If by chance, all the bicycles are rusted out or have flat tires, there are rentals available by Bayside Inn.

Things to do bicycle smith island maryland

Charter a boat

If the ride to Smith Island tickled your fancy for another boat adventure, you can book a private charter tour . Sunset cruises are available to catch the sun slowly setting into the Chesapeake Bay. Also available are photo expeditions and nature tours where you can observe the large variety of wild birds inhabiting Martin National Wildlife Refuge.

Finally, there is also the popular fishing adventure where you are likely to catch some of the bay’s tastiest fish including striped bass, bluefish, croaker, flounder, black drum, rockfish, and sea trout.

Attend a church service

Religion plays an important role in the lives of many islanders. On 4.5 square miles of land, there are no police stations and no official town government, but there are in fact 3 churches. Each of the three Smith Island communities has its own Methodist church where local decisions are made, providing both political and religious cohesion.

Rev. Charles Richard Edmund, the only pastor on the island for 10 years, preaches at all three locations every Sunday. Residents are eager to share their faith with others and welcome visitors to join any of their services.

Ewell United Methodist Church – Main Service at 9 AM Sundays Tylerton United Methodist Church – Main Service at 10:45 AM Sundays Calvary Methodist Church in Rhodes Point – Main Service at 12 noon Sundays

Rent a golf cart to see the island

While you may find a few vehicles on the roads, the main modes of transportation on the island are by foot, bicycle, and golf cart. Head on over to Bayside Inn where you can rent a golf cart for up to 2.5 hours. You can easily walk across the island in a few hours; You can bike it in about an hour; and with a golf cart you can see everything in about 20 minutes. Therefore, this is an ideal option if you are short on time.

I will go ahead and give an advanced warning that the company restricts where you can go depending on the time of day due to rising tides. When the water levels are up, the main road connecting Ewell and Rhode’s Point becomes flooded and impassable.

Watch a sunset in the middle of the bay

We had the absolute pleasure of watching the sunset over the Chesapeake Bay while on a kayak in front of the Tylerton dock. This was the ideal location to capture an unimpeded view of the rich colors setting into the water. Witnessing a sunset from Smith Island where the land is flat and construction is minimal, gives you a clear panoramic view of sunsets which are hard to compare.

Pick up some souvenirs at Bayside Gifts

Aside from the aforementioned antique shop, the other place for you to pick up a Smith Island momento is at the Bayside Inn gift shop. Located inside the restaurant, you can peruse a selection of handcrafted items as well as branded t-shirts, hats, and other souvenirs.

Get up super early and watch the watermen in action

If you are an early riser, and I mean early, you can wake up to watch the watermen as they start their work at 4 am. The docks are filled with crab traps and bustling boats preparing to leave. A few hours later, the crab shanties, which are otherwise quiet and empty, are filled with the day’s freshest catch. Sleep in and you could miss all of this activity which is central to the Smith Island way of life.

Where to Stay on Smith Island

Many people ask “can you stay overnight on Smith Island”. The answer is yes and it is highly recommended to experience the breathtaking sunset over the bay! While there are no hotels on Smith Island, there are a handful of cottages and B&Bs. These historic homes are typically right on the water with access to kayaks, bicycles, and other amenities to help you explore the island.

Bizzy’s Bungalow

This little bungalow is one of the cutest places to stay on Smith Island. Although built in 1925, the house maintains many of its original features adding to the character of the home. Guests will enjoy riding the provided bicycles and seasonal golf cart around the island.

Everything from the kitchen and Kitchenaid stand mixer, to the bedsheets and the golf cart come in a soft pink color. You’ll fall in love with Bixy’s soft pink accents and vintage charm. Bixy’s Bungalow has 2 bedrooms and 1 bathroom.

The Pearl on Smith Island

The Pearl is a completely restored 1900’s Eastern Shore Farmhouse. It is spacious with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a living room, a dining room, and a well-stocked kitchen. The dock is a short 4-minute walk from the house where you’ll find 3 kayaks available for use during your stay. The Pearl is an ideal stay for families and those traveling by boat who need a place to dock.

Frequently Asked Questions about Visiting Smith Island, Maryland

What is smith island known for.

Smith Island is known for its amazing people, unique culture, and beautiful wildlife. It is also known for being the birthplace of Maryland’s official dessert! People come to Smith Island to experience the simple life of Chesapeake watermen.

How do you get to Smith Island?

Smith Island is only accessible by boat, adding to the charm of this unique destination. There are two departure locations : Crisfield and Point Lookout. From there, the ferry typically takes around 50 minutes.

How much does it cost to get to Smith Island?

The simple ferry to Smith Island costs around $20 each way. Look for Captain Jason.

Smith Island Cruises also offer site-seeing excursions which stop on Smith Island before returning to the main land on the same day. These cruises cost anywhere from $16 for children to $60 for adults.

Can you kayak around Smith Island?

Smith Island is a prime destination for kayaking, however it is important to keep in mind the tides. We paddled 2 miles down to Tylerton just fine, however as we paddled back with the sunset we found it harder and harder to paddle. It didn’t take long for us to realize that the bottom of our kayak was now scraping against the bottom of the inlet. Luckily, the center of the inlet provided enough depth for us to make it back to Ewell, however, we might not have been so lucky had we left an hour later.

Top 17 things to do on Smith Island www.lovicarious.com

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Smith island in Maryland seems like a place where my family and I would spend on our vacation! We are outdoorsy family and love whatever the nature has to offer so therefore Smith island sound wonderful! We would definitely go kayaking around and hopefully also find that hidden beach the local was talking about! A bike cycle tour sound great too! I have never tried crab cakes before so I guess there is another reason for us to visit Smith island! Really great place to spend our family vacation!

I think I would like to visit a place like Smith Island that is not trying to cater to tourists. Kayaking would be fun. But the tides would require some planning. Of course, I could not leave without trying the crab cakes. Even without knowing there is a long wait for fried chicken. And after keeping busy, it would be great to try the Smith Island Cake. I would be looking for dark chocolate and peanut butter variations. Maybe take my cake to watch the sunset in the middle of the bay.

Interesting activities! I am sure I want to try the crab cake, love crab meat. ) Wonder what different hairstyles you can get at their salon, I want to try that too. I am an early riser some days, would love to watch the watermen in action. Lot of photo opportunities then for sure. Great place, hope I can visit.

Admittedly, we didn’t wake up early enough to see the watermen in action. I bet you are right about the photos though. The sunsets were some of the most beautiful I have seen so I am sure the sunrises are just as beautiful.

I’ve never been to Maryland, or heard of Smith Island, when in the US, so this was a really interesting read. From the list of things to do, I most like the look of the crab co-op and of course the crab cakes! The Smith Island cake also looks delicious!

Most people haven’t heard of Smith Island, even in the US! We actually only found out about it a year ago. We love the small fishing town vibe. It is truly a great experience.

These are all fun ideas! I would love to visit Goat Island and try the Smith Island Cake. That sounds like a perfect day to me!

The Smith Island Cake is so yummy! Definitely worth trying next time you see it on a menu!

I love the idea of visiting a location that is not targeting tourists. It would feel more like going to see a friend in another city. I love crab, I love the idea of super fresh crab even more! Bummer that you didn’t make it to goat island, that would be a must see for me

Ugh don’t remind me! That is one of our biggest travel regrets! lol

Never heard of this place before but it looks like a gorgeous place to visit. Thanks for the recommendations on what to do here, will have to check them out!

Glad you found it helpful!

I live so close to Maryland and almost never visit. I’ve never really known what there was to do there, but always the idea of seafood allured me. Now that I have so many ideas from your blog post, I’ll be sure to be planning a trip there this summer!

And while you are at it, you should add Tangier island to your list too! It is just a mile or 2 south of Smith Island and is supposed to be a similar experience (just bigger). We haven’t been there yet, but it is on our list for sure!

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Just got back from 3 nights at “The Pearl” and we’re already Homesick for the island. AMAZING Time for an extended Angie Birthday Weekend! Being able to meet and speak to many of the super friendly locals was Priceless!! Go to the museum and watch the video. Such a shame the Waterspout turned Tornado damaged things but thankful it wasn’t worse. Biked down to Rhodes Point and met John Tyler on the way back checking his crabs. He explained the “Softshell” process and so much more!! Captain Pastor Everett Landon gave us a SPECTACULAR Sunset Cruise along with his Mate Brian from Tylerton. Speaking of Tylerton, we Kayaked down from Ewell and grabbed some Cakes (Crab and Smith). Wonderful all plainly marked thru the marshes but be careful, cell service is sketchy!!. And so much more….!!! How have we not visited Smith Island before this living here in Maryland?!?!?

We are from Virginia and had only learned about Smith Island a few months prior to our trip. It is definitely an underrated Maryland destination. I’m glad you had a great experience and were able to meet so many locals. That’s always one of our favorite parts about travel! Next up we will need to explore Tangier island!

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Smith Island, MD – Everything You Need to Know to Plan Your Trip

Smith Island MD is the last inhabited island in Maryland . It is slowly disappearing into the Chesapeake Bay, both from rising sea levels and the erosion of its sand foundation. It is estimated that without intervention, the Island will be mostly gone by 2050 . We visited Smith Island on the last weekend of May while boating America’s Great Loop , and were enamored with the history and culture of the island. Here’s everything we learned about Smith Island and our Ultimate Guide for your travel.

Note: We use affiliate links which provide us a little kickback each time you use one of our links and make a purchase, without any additional cost to you. We do not recommend products that we don’t already love or have heard great things about, so you can trust we’re only suggesting great products to you .

Table of Contents

The History and Culture of Smith Island

Smith Island was initially charted by the famous explorer John Smith but was named after early settler Henry Smith. Early British settlers arrived from Cornwall and Wales in the 17th century, and the population peaked at ~800 in the 1900s. Roughly 250 people live on the island today.

Smith Island is actually a collection of smaller island towns with Ewell being the largest (the town we visited), connected to Rhodes Point and then by water to the other community Tylerton.

You may wonder why people decide to still live on Smith Island when there’s little to no cell service, you can count the number of shops on one hand, the bugs are ever present from the surrounding marshland, and the island most likely won’t exist by 2100… and the reason is community .

Life on Smith Island has modernized over the centuries, however, much has remained consistent through generations. Whether from livelihoods depending on the Chesapeake Bay as watermen or baking the official state dessert of Smith Island Cake since the 1800s, the culture and community keep residents fighting for the island. Awesomely, you can even hear Smith Islanders, as their accents are unique in the United States. Their accents are markers of their Cornish and Welsh ancestry, so you’ll do a double-take with your first conversation!

Why you should visit Smith Island

Jennifer and I travel for many reasons, but we especially love unique destinations . Smith Island is unique in the US, and, importantly, it won’t be around much longer . A rising sea level of just one foot will be enough to destroy the island without serious intervention.

Visiting Smith Island will share a unique way of life going back generations. You’ll be able to eat some local delicacies like the famous soft-shelled crab of the Eastern Shore and the famous layered Smith Island Cake. You can experience a slower way of life on Smith Island; There’s no traffic, and stores close early, all in the majestic Chesapeake Bay .

How to get to Smith Island

Smith Island is only accessible by boat, as there are no bridges that cross the 10 miles through Tangier Sound. Most people take a ferry to Smith Island, and you have a few options.

From the Western Shore of the Chesapeake, there’s only one option. Smith Island Cruises depart from Point Lookout State Park, Maryland Thursday through Sunday during the Summer at 10:30am.

Most people travel to Smith Island from the Eastern Shore of Maryland, from a town called Crisfield .

See two amazing towns in one trip, check out our Ultimate Guide to Crisfield !

All boats from Crisfield depart at 12:30 pm, and there are 3 options. One large tour boat and 2 smaller passenger ferries. The tour and one passenger ferry go to Ewell, and one passenger ferry goes to Tylerton. Check the official site at smithisland.org to find the latest information. We recommend taking the ferry if you are staying more than one night and the tour boat if all you have is one afternoon.

The ferry takes roughly 45 minutes. We recommend giving the captains a call, bringing enough cash for your return trip, and asking when the captains plan on coming back to Crisfield. You wouldn’t want to accidentally get stranded on Smith Island just because the ferries only run once daily! Although, there are worse places to be stranded…

Most tourists will drive to Crisfield and hop on the ferry to Smith Island, but that leaves the question of where to leave your car in Crisfield safely! Primarily, we recommend calling the ferry captain you’re planning on taking and asking them for the latest information. Otherwise, we recommend parking at the Lumber building on 11th and Broad Street . It’s $3.00 per night. Crisfield is a small town and generally a safe place to leave your car, although practice good street smarts and ensure you don’t leave any valuables inside.

Where to stay on Smith Island

Suffice to say, you won’t find a Hilton on Smith Island! The best places to stay on the island are at a homestay like Vrbo , or one of the local cottages. You get the authentic local experience, which is part of the charm of Smith Island.

Their are a few pieces you need to ensure when booking a place on Smith Island. The first is, which community is it located on Smith Island. You wouldn’t want to book a place in Tylerton when your ferry lands in Ewell, or vice-versa!

Secondly, we recommend ensuring your place includes a way to get out on the water. Many homes will include Kayaks for touring the local environment. Just North of Ewell is the Martin National Wildlife Refuge . The wildlife refuge is closed to the public, so you won’t be able to kayak through it, but just exploring the area will show you incredible wildlife diversity.

🔍 We love cataloging and identifying our bird sightings with the free Cornell Bird Identification App .

There is only so much to do within these small communities on Smith Island, so the more you can get out onto the Bay, the more you’ll understand why Smith Islanders are fighting to preserve their homes.

Thirdly, you shouldn’t expect any cell service on the island so make sure your place has WiFi if you need to stay connected. Don’t expect the WiFi to be strong too, it is an island in the Chesapeake Bay after all!

The Smith Island Inn is a great place for families and one of the most popular places to stay in Ewell.

Another option in Ewell is the Smith Island Motel (which seems a bit ironic as you won’t be motoring to the hotel). You’ll get an authentic experience as the hosts, Dory and Allan, share what makes the Island special.

What to eat on Smith Island

You must try three delicacies on Smith Island: soft-shelled crab, Smith Island Cake, and any local catch!

Soft-shelled Crab

If you haven’t heard of soft-shelled crab, here’s the gist. Essentially, the waterman catches crabs and keeps them in climate-controlled tanks. They monitor the crabs closely, and just after they molt, they remove them so they have a soft outer shell . Amazing, right? So, soft-shell crabs are the same thing as hard-shell crabs, just harvested at precisely the right moment!

You can eat the complete soft-shell crab (except for parts like the gills). You do not need to crack open a shell or anything. Smith Island is the premier place to buy soft-shelled crab, so you shouldn’t leave without trying one! You can find soft-shelled crab, crab cakes, and more at The Bayside Inn (aka Smith Island Store) or Harbour Side Grocery ! We personally enjoyed them from Harbour Side Grocery and really enjoyed them.

Smith Island Cake

Smith Island Cake is the official state dessert of Maryland. Created in the 1800s, Smith Island Cake is a seven-layer cake, with icing spread between each layer and on the outside of the cake. The story of Smith Island Cake further reinforces why tourists flock to visit Smith Island in general, as well as their values and history.

Smith Island Cake was created for the watermen as they left onto the bay, sometimes to return a week later. Traditional Smith Island Cake did not have butter; the frosting was just sugar and chocolate, meaning it didn’t have to be refrigerated. The reason for the layers is still a bit of a mystery. The most popular answer is that, since Smith Island didn’t have electricity until the 1950s, residents had trouble getting a cake to rise in wood ovens. Hence, Smith Islanders decided to make multiple smaller cake layers, leading to the layered decadence of today. The other popular idea is that the number of layers was a point of friendly competition between the watermen’s wives!

You can find Smith Island Cake in most residences on the island, but we recommend going to the Smith Island Baking Company , located in Ewell. They are the only company selling Smith Island Cakes on the island, and they are super kind people. When we had our emergency (read below), they watched our dog for the night, and no questions were asked! You can also order their cakes online from https://smithislandbakeryllc.com/ . Make sure to call ahead to find out their hours of operation!

Anything Seafood

Outside of the soft-shelled crab, seafood is king on the Chesapeake Bay . The most famous fish in the Chesapeake Bay is the Striped Bass (Rockfish), so if you have the opportunity to try this local catch, go for it.

When to visit Smith Island

The best time to visit Smith Island is in the Summer, from May until Labor Day . Most tourist companies are open, and the ferries often run twice daily, allowing you to explore Smith Island on a day trip.

It’s quite warm in Maryland in the Summer, although there are some bay breezes to keep you cool. We recommend packing SPF long-sleeved sun shirts so you can a) be sun-safe and b) be bug-safe! Regardless of when you go to Smith Island, bring bug repellent from the mainland.

How long to stay on Smith Island

With only 2.3 miles end to end from the outskirts of Ewell to the outskirts of Rhodes Point, you don’t need much time to see everything on Smith Island. If you only have one day, you can still enjoy Smith Island and get a cursory overview of what makes the Island special.

However, getting back to what makes Smith Island so unique and worth traveling to, you’ll want at least two nights to get a slice of life on Smith Island. Here’s a sample dream itinerary for your visit to Smith Island :

Day 1 – Arrive to Smith Island

Drive to Crisfield, Maryland , and ensure you are parked by noon or at least 30 minutes before the Ferry’s departure. We asked Captain Otis if he ever holds up the boat, and he said he wouldn’t hold the boat for his grandmother, so they run a tight schedule! Hop on the 12:30 ferry and arrive in Crisfield by 1:15 pm. Check into your Bed and Breakfast and return to The Bayside Inn as they close at 4 or 6 pm (depending on the day). Finally, enjoy a beautiful sunset over the Chesapeake Bay.

Day 2 – Just “Be” in Smith Island

Enjoy the sunrise over the Chesapeake Bay and grab coffee and pastries from Smith Island Baking Company or eat at your Bed and Breakfast. Take your kayaks out for a kayak tour around the marshlands bordering Smith Island.

Another option is to Kayak or boat to Swan Island (north on this map) and enjoy a private beach! If you are into fishing too, there are fishing charters available.

The rest of your full day on Smith Island should be based on the people that make Smith Island special. Perhaps your hosts invite you to a family dinner, maybe there is a bonfire where a few locals are sitting around the fire, or even talking with the local watermen as they bring their catches back to the mainland. If you have some spare time, you don’t want to miss the Smith Island Cultural Center . Enjoy your last sunset over the Chesapeake Bay as you think about this beautiful trip.

Day 3 – Head back to the mainland

Most of the ferries leave at 7:30 am, bright and early. This gets you back on the mainland around 8:15 am and time to make it back home before the evening.

Boaters Guide to Smith Island

We visited Smith Island both by ferry and by our boat, so here’s everything you need to know about visiting Smith Island on your boat. This is targeted to boats that you stay overnight in, and if you are traveling in a smaller boat, we recommend asking the local VRBOs like this one if they have a dock available!

How to Approach Smith Island

Smith Island has a lot of shoaling , but crab boats drawing 4.5 feet transit in and out every single day so you will be able to as well! If you draw more than 4.5 feet, you’ll only be able to get in at higher tides, and you may be sitting on the bottom at low, so keep that in mind. Call the local marina ahead of time to ask for any local knowledge and tips for approaching.

Smith Island has two channels, one from the East and one from the West. We approached from the West in our trawler, drawing 3.5 feet and had plenty of water, while the ferries from Crisfield (much larger) approached from the East. We chose the Western approach because there was less distance to Ewell. The Eastern approach has a few more twists and turns. We recommend staying in the center of the channel where possible and approaching on a rising tide.

Where to Dock on Smith Island

There are two places to dock on Smith Island. Smith Island Bakery and a new Marina being built, 3 knots Marina. Call ahead if you are expecting water and power, as these are no-frills places to tie up your boat. The locals are incredibly kind and will do their best to ensure you have a great stay, so Kathy at Smith Island Baking Company ran an electrical cord from the bakery to our boat giving us 15A power and a hose we could refill our water tanks. It was perfect for us and a great launching point for exploring Smith Island.

Where to Anchor around Smith Island

Unfortunately, since Smith Island is surrounded by shallow water, there are no viable anchorages close enough to dinghy over to It. If you need to anchor, we recommend anchoring in Crisfield Harbor and catching the ferry to Smith Island.

Internet on Smith Island

There is only a Verizon tower on Smith Island; even with it, there is very little cell service. We recommend StarLink Internet, which will have fast service on Smith Island.

Check out our blog post on Boat Internet !

Provisioning and Hardware Stores

Smith Island has only 200 residents and has everything shipped from the mainland on daily ferries, so don’t expect much in the way of provisioning or hardware stores. If you need a few things, you can see if Harbour Side Grocery has them; otherwise, it’s best to provision on the mainland!

Our Smith Island Disaster (explained)

We had a unique, even by Smith Island standards, experience when we visited.

We stayed at the Smith Island Bakery dock while first attempting America’s Great Loop and were thrilled to experience this unique destination. When I stepped off the boat our first full day, I missed the dock and landed with a crack . I had fractured my wrist.

Immediately, I knew it was broken and called out to Jen. A local waterman who was monitoring his crab tanks next door heard the commotion and came over to help. After getting up to speed, he immediately went to the bakery to get help.

Wondering what I was going to do, we were interrupted by alarms blaring all across the island. I thought, “Oh, wow, they’re taking this very seriously. It’s only a broken wrist!”

Well, the town mobilized , and the resident EMT, who was in her personal attire, dropped her lunch from Bayside Inn and ran over to the bakery. She triaged the injury, putting me in a sling, even as other residents came by calming me and Jen and regaling us of other times this had happened to the locals. We felt like we were welcomed into a part of this Smith Island community.

She said, “I’ve called the Maryland State Patrol and they are sending a helicopter to come get you.” I was shocked, “do I need a helicopter?”, I asked, wondering if my injury was somehow worse than I thought. She said no, I could call it off, but there were no ferries leaving the island for another 12 hours, so I wouldn’t be in a hospital for another 15 hours otherwise. I relented, hoping that we wouldn’t be struck with some insane bill.

They put us in the back of a Ford pickup (their local ambulance) and brought Jen and me to the section of road between Ewell and Rhodes Point, their local “helicopter pad.” We had so many thoughts and emotions running through our minds, mainly logistics around our boat, our dog, and getting help. The town stepped up, and Kathy from the bakery said we could leave Ollie with her and not worry about it, just take care of yourselves.

Shortly after, We were airlifted from Smith Island and took the ferry back the next day. It was a day we will never forget!

Videos of our trip to Smith Island

We hope you visit Smith Island, and get to experience the community (albeit without any broken bones)!

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Visit Smith Island, Maryland | Things to do in Maryland | Disappearing Island | One Day on Smith Island | Weekend trip in Maryland | Things to do in Delmarva | Island on the Chesapeake Bay | Things to do on the Chesapeake Bay

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You Can Visit Smith Island, And Here's What To Do There

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8 things not to do when you encounter a bear on the trail, 7 tennessee towns with the best quality of life in the smokies, quick links, what is smith island, how to get to smith island, what to do on smith island.

Smith Island is a marshy mass of land off the coast of Crisfield, Maryland. The setting of the island is like something from classical literature in the sense that Victorian virtues clash with modern sentiments. The island is preserved in time, and visitors might find that they are transported back to the distant past -- a simpler and more dignified time when America was young and the settlers were romantic in their ideals of toiling the land, worshipping God, and living freely.

Smith Island was occupied by English settlers in the 1600s. The inhabitants were naturally isolated by the freezing waters that surround the island. As a result, the culture that emerged was distinctly self-governing, self-reliant, and socially cohesive. Neighbors would necessarily know one another, and in general, the residents of Smith Island were part of one large community.

In its heyday, the island housed around 1,000 people. Over the next 400 years or so, the population has shrunk down to below 50 residents. As the tenets of modernity crept in, Smith Islanders, illusioned with the outside world and its worldly boons, slowly began to leave, hoping to marry outside the community and find opportunities for pleasure that could not be found on the tiny island. The people who are left on the island are the stronghold of settler civilization, carrying with them the torch of sacred values that demand a simple and modest life.

The remaining residents of Smith Island have preserved an old dialect of English that cannot be found elsewhere -- a phenomenon that may be of interest to philologists and linguists who find themselves in the region. In addition to the near-extinct dialect, Smith Islanders have preserved recipes from the olden days , the most famous of which is the Smith Island Cake -- a crispy, multilayered dessert that has become a staple of Maryland.

In general, visitors will discover that an old, dignified, and autonomous way of life has persevered on the island. In fact, of the remaining residents, the most common surnames are 'Evans' and 'Tyler', names that can be traced back to the first families who settled Smith Island.

The primary source of livelihood on the island is crabbing, oyster dredging, fishing, and hunting.

Related: See Wild Ponies At These Virginia & Maryland Islands

There are no roads linking Smith Island to the mainland, so the only way to get there and back is by boat. Luckily, since most tourists don't own their own boats, there is a ferry service that links the island to Crisfield.

Indeed, while most tourists do not own their own boats, the residents of Smith Island most certainly do. It is natural that they would need a way on and off the island to transport goods or seek shelter in the event of an emergency.

The ferries run in accordance with the weather, and on most days only one round trip is made to the island and back. For visitors, it costs a hefty $40 per person for a round trip, and bookings must be made in advance.

There are three ferry services. Two of them run all year round and are primarily freight boats for transporting mail and supplies, while the third is a seasonal passenger ferry. Visitors can find out more on the Smith Island website .

Departure Point : Somers Cove Marina
Address : 715 Broadway, Crisfield, MD 21817, United States
Hours : Usually departing at 12:30 PM, return upon request
Price : $20 per person, each way

Related: Don’t Be (Blue) Crabby: A Guide To Maryland’s Best Crab Houses

The ferries do not transport cars, so visitors will have to do without them. However, once on the island, it is possible to hire bicycles and golf carts, which make it remarkably easier to get around.

In terms of what there is to do, Smith Island is best experienced somewhat passively. Take in the vintage architecture of the houses , look out for birds like herons and ospreys, and explore the marshlands. Visitors can dine at one of the local restaurants or visit the Cavalry Church, where they may very well find the island's heart and soul. A great seafood restaurant on the northern end of the island is the Bayside Inn, which is one of the two restaurants on the island.

Restaurant : Bayside Inn Restaurant
Address : 4065 Smith Island Rd, Ewell, MD 21824, United States
Hours : 11 AM - 6 PM
Cuisine : Seafood

Visitors can also patron the only market on the island, Drumpoint Market, where the day's catches are sold.

Next: The Victorian Era Seemed Glamorous, But Was Also An Era Of Unknown Dangers

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In This Issue

Weekend Getaways: An extensive 3-day itinerary to Smith Island, Maryland

Defined by its three small towns—Ewell, Rhodes Point and Tylerton—Smith Island provides an idyllic escape from reality.

By Nevin Martell August 28, 2019

Drive time from NoVA: 3 hours and 15 minutes, plus 45-minute ferry ride

Outdoor enthusiasts will love escaping to these idyllic isles of the Chesapeake Bay, home to vibrant bird populations, fishing galore and plenty of kayaking. Spread out over 8,000 acres, Smith Island is a small archipelago defined by its three towns: Ewell, Rhodes Point and Tylerton. Only accessible by ferry, this island evokes an authentic small-town charm.

Where to stay

Options are limited to a few B&Bs and some rental homes. (Find a list at visitsmithisland.com/stay ; some properties are available through Airbnb.com .) Susan’s on Smith Island Bed & Breakfast is a charming choice featuring first-rate hospitality, waterfront views and a hearty breakfast (dinner is available for $30 per guest). Situated in a picturesque mid-19th century Victorian, the Smith Island Inn offers guests complimentary use of its bicycles and canoes, as well as a charming breakfast spread.

Morning Hop the ferry to Smith Island. Several different operators depart daily at 12:30 p.m. from the dock at the end of Route 413 in Crisfield, Maryland. If you’re renting a home, do your grocery shopping on the mainland for the best selection and prices.

Afternoon Have a late lunch at the Harborside Grocery and Restaurant , known for stellar seafood and a beloved cheesesteak. For dessert, stop at the recently revitalized Smith Island Bakery , which crafts the island’s namesake dessert, a towering treat interspersing nine thin layers of yellow cake with fudgy chocolate icing. There’s also a selection of handmade products by local artisans for sale. Learn about the island’s history, unique dialect and crabbing industry by visiting the Smith Island Cultural Center . Afterward, rent a golf cart or bicycle (available from the Bayside Inn Restaurant and elsewhere) to tour the island at a leisurely pace.

Evening Savor seafood galore at Bayside Inn Restaurant , making sure to order its renowned cream of crab soup and whatever soft shell crab preparation is being offered. Or choose to stay in for the night. For an extra fee, many rental homes and B&Bs provide dinner, including buckets of steamed crabs. Whether you eat out or dine in, don’t forget to BYOB as the island is completely dry

What’s New

The recently revitalized Smith Island Bakery offers a variety of flavors of the iconic cake—including pineapple, coconut and lemon cream—alongside handicrafts from Bay artists. Many B&Bs and rental property owners have started offering steamed crab deliveries to guests for dinner. And don’t miss the Smith Island Cultural Center, which is always updating its information on the island’s rich history.

Morning Grab sandwiches, sides and drinks from Bayside Inn Carryout . Use a kayak (offered for free at many B&Bs or to rent at various locations) to explore the channels wending their way between the islands and the marshy coastlines. (A paddler’s guide of notable water trails is available at the cultural center for $3.) While you’re out, keep your eyes peeled for local birds, including herons, egrets and osprey.

Afternoon Charter a boat for a fishing expedition, which might score you striped bass, trout or flounder. If that’s not your speed, there are sea glass hunting excursions along the shores and seaside hunts for Native American artifacts, including arrowheads and pottery shards. (A list of captains to guide you on these excursions is available at the cultural center—or just go down to Ewell’s pier and ask around.)

Evening Cook your catch (upon request, some B&B proprietors and homeowners will prepare it for you) or catalog your finds as darkness falls.

In November, the islands become a temporary home to many wintering waterfowl. Visitors can expect to see a variety of duck species, including American black ducks and mallards.

Morning Take a trip to Tylerton . Though the town is only reachable by water, it’s easy to arrange passage on two local boats, the Captain Jason II or Captain Waverly Evans . Stop in at the Smith Island Crabmeat Cooperative to watch the ladies pick crabs and learn about the history of crabbing in the Bay.

Afternoon Have lunch at Drum Point Market , making sure to order proprietor Mary Ada Marshall’s famous crab cakes. If you’re a passionate baker, she teaches classes on how to make Smith Island Cake . Afterward, book a boat over to the brown pelican breeding grounds, which makes for great birdwatching rich with excellent photography opportunities.

Evening Head over to the neighboring town of Rhodes Point for the best sunset views on the island. Don’t forget to snap a pic for your Instagram, though you may have to wait until you’re home to post it, because cell reception on the island is spotty at best.

This post originally appeared in our September 2019 issue as part of the Weekend Getaways cover story. For more travel content, subscribe to our newsletter.

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The Best of the Bay

Smith Island: The Most Beautiful Place You’ve Never Been

In the heart of the Chesapeake Bay, Smith Island is a community shaped by water, tides, and tradition.

Smith Island is a resilient outlier in the fading archipelago of Chesapeake Bay islands. Its secrets are waiting to be explored.

Just off the southwestern edge of Maryland’s Eastern Shore, broken shards of an ancient archipelago tumble down the main stem of the Chesapeake Bay. These scattered islands—Hoopers, Bloodworth, Holland, Smith, Tangier—have been waypoints and safe harbors since the days of the Chesapeake’s first people. Generations of pirates and colonists, watermen and farmers washed up on their shores. They created close-knit communities whose traditions, faith, and dialects were isolated and intensified by the great moat of the Bay. Island livelihoods were caught in the rich waters offshore, seasonal harvests of crabs, oysters, shad, waterfowl, and terrapin formed the living backbone of the economy.

Today, the tides are turning for many of the Chesapeake’s islands. Island villages on Hoopers and Deal have withered, their young generations steadily moving off-island for education and careers. Some, such as Holland, have washed away completely, their island stories and gravestones submerged under the very Bay that once sustained them.

But a few vibrant jewels remain, still supported by crabs and oysters. Smith Island is one of them, a resilient outlier resisting time and transformation. Located about 15 miles off Crisfield, Smith is four miles long with three towns, Ewell, Tylerton, and Rhodes Point. It is also the last inhabited island in Maryland not connected to land by a bridge. Woven through Smith’s maritime communities and way of life you find a vibrant and timeless celebration of the Chesapeake Bay.

Though Smith Island was once the kind of place only unlocked by word of mouth, today’s Smith Island is more inviting and accessible than ever. Thanks to some new tourism ventures spearheaded by enterprising Smith Islanders, anyone with an adventurous spirit can explore one of the last, great islands of the Chesapeake—a water world of marsh and sky ruled by elegant workboats and the watermen who guide them.

Island Immersion

The closest most people get to Smith Island is a big slice of its ten-decker cake or a softshell crab sandwich bristling with legs. But Everett Landon and his wife Carole Ann hope to change all that. As the founders and guides at Experience Smith Island, the native islanders are ambassadors to Smith’s landscapes, traditions, and communities. They’re also the ultimate insiders—they know everyone and everywhere on the island, and everyone knows them. With their programs, they unlock a side of island life most tourists never see.

It’s a life that, until recently, the Landons didn’t realize was all that unusual. Growing up on Smith Island, they were surrounded by friends and family whose lineages went back on Smith for centuries. Talking to them is a bit like idly scrolling through a family tree on Ancestry.com—there are Corbins and Bradshaws and Parks connected through the past like a paper chain, tracing one generation after another working the water back, back, back. All that history made life on Smith ordinary—they thought nothing of taking the school ferry back and forth across Tangier Sound on a 30-mile round trip for high school, for example.

“I liked the freedom that I had,” Everett says. “It seemed like it was us islanders, and then the rest of the world out there somewhere—the mainland and everything else. We had no law enforcement. Only parents and other adults that would tell parents when they saw children getting into things they shouldn’t. My mom would always find out what I was doing. When I would get into trouble I would always ask, ‘Who told you?’ And she would always say, ‘A little bird.’”

The community connectedness was something that Carole Ann remembers too. “I loved that my family lived in such close proximity to each other. My dad would cut up watermelon in the late evenings of summer, out in the crab shanty. All of my grown siblings and their families would come down to have some after a hard day’s work. We also got together as a family, every Sunday afternoon after church, to have coffee and Smith Island cake.”

Everett and Carole Ann went on to marry and raise children on the island, and Everett worked the water and as the island’s pastor, taking a boat to preach at each town’s Methodist church on Sundays. (Fittingly, Everett is a direct descendant of Joshua Thomas, the famous Methodist “Parson of the Island” who traveled through the islands on his log canoe, The Methodist.)

But a recent heritage tourism certification course through Maryland Tourism was eye-opening, and for the Landons, life-changing. The couple realized that so many elements of their Smith Island lives—the crab shanties, the cakes, the storytelling, the community connection—were things that island visitors wanted to experience, too. So the Landons created a business, Experience Smith Island, to do just that. Onboard their deadrise, Circuit Rider, the Landons share the verdant marshes, island culture and local traditions with their participants each year, May through September.

“Most of the time, when I take a group to the island, they say, ‘I had no idea it was like this,’” Everett says. “I really enjoy helping people to understand what the island is. How we live. The history we have. The beauty. There is so much that the island offers and people just don’t understand it until they see it.”

The Landons have put together a package of different programs directly inspired by growing up on Smith. On their cake-baking demonstration, for example, Everett’s mother puts you to work in her own kitchen, portioning out the yellow cake batter into precise, thin layers. You can visit Everett’s father in his crab shanty and help him fish up the tender softshells in the shedding tanks, or hop on a boat and head out to see the pelican rookeries where the wild-looking hatchlings are a reminder that somewhere in every bird’s DNA is a tiny dinosaur. If they don’t provide a specific program, they’ll connect you with someone on-island who can. And importantly, they help you navigate—literally—the planning and process necessary to get to Smith from Crisfield’s dock.

Everett explains. “‘I often say, the planets have to align to get to the island. The weather, ferry boat schedules, and time of year all play a factor in when—or if—you get on or off the island. You need someone who understands the logistics. We know the people, the places, the captains, and everything else that is needed to make for a great visit. From the ferry schedule to arranging an off-hours visit to one of the local shops, we can smooth the way for our visitors.”

To arrange a program, visit Experience Smith Island or visit their Facebook page .

Scraping By

Mark Kitching has hospitality in his blood. The grandson of the famous cook and hostess Frances Kitching, whose boarding house and cookbook made Smith Island’s warm welcome and delicious fare a household name, Kitching has his grandmother’s gift of gab and flair for making a person feel right at home. As the Smith Islanders would say, Kitching has been a waterman “all his life,” oystering in the winter and scraping for soft shells in the summer. Like the Landons, Kitching also recently wrapped up a course in heritage tourism through Maryland Tourism, and it got him thinking: maybe other people would be interested in seeing what a day in the life of a Smith Island crab scraper is like.

Crab scraping is the ultimate adaptation to Smith Island’s unique environment. It capitalizes on the lush underwater grass beds that thrive around the island’s vast marshes in summertime. Crabs retreat into the grasses for cover, to feed, mate and shed their shells as they molt and grow in size. The islanders developed triangular metal and net scrapes to be drawn through the beds like delicate lawn mowers, pulled by the thin, needly work boats favored by the island’s boatbuilders.

Since the turn of the century, Kitching estimates, watermen have dragged scrapes like his working the waters around the island in search of softshell crabs. After the scrapes are pulled up and the nets are emptied, they manually cull through each batch of topped eelgrass and widgeon grass. The thick grasses teem with aquatic creatures—seahorses, mud crabs, naked gobies, terrapin. All are gently separated and tossed back into the water in search of the real prize, softshell or molting crabs. Once the waterman calls it a day, they take their catch back to their crab shanties, where shedding tanks with circulating water hold the crabs until they’re boxed up and shipped off to gastronomes around the world. Today, Kitching estimates, only six active crab scrapers are left on the island.

Onboard Kitching’s workboat, the Rebekah, visitors are invited to try their hand at scraping, and along with it, get a peek at the Chesapeake vistas and wildlife found within the island’s marshes. On an unforgettable July morning last summer, I was lucky enough to join Kitching with five Washington College students as he left Ewell’s harbor for his favorite scraping spot. We were treated to a glorious sunrise, and settled into a protected cove where Kitching dropped his scrape. He’s a patient teacher, and he explained each step of the process to the students as he worked—the operation of the scrape, the site he had chosen. When the bulging scrape was pulled up on the winch and onto the culling board, he invited the students to plunge their hands deep into the grass, dislodging an aquarium’s worth of small Bay creatures including a terrapin the size of a dinner plate. We found softshells and crabs that were showing every sign of molting soon. The Bay’s animals trickled over the side of the boat, all legs and fins working overtime to reach the warm, brackish water.

As we worked, Kitching was talking—about his childhood on the island, and the ways the island has changed since. There have been many more mainlanders buying houses and property on the island in response to the booming real estate market since the pandemic. The newcomers aren’t unwelcome, Kitching explains, but they do represent a sea change in the island’s community.

Once we got back to the dock, Kitching had a few bushels of hardshell crabs and some coolers of softshells to add to his shedding tanks. The students and I left with a deep sense of gratitude, knowing that we’ve experienced something beautiful and so increasingly rare, a day in the life of a Smith Island waterman.

To arrange a crab scraping experience, email: [email protected] or visit the Facebook page for Smith Island Eco Tours and Charters .

Know If You Go

Getting There Three passenger ferries operate year-round and make at least one round trip daily from the town dock in Crisfield to Smith Island. The boat schedule varies with season and the weather, and round-trip service from the mainland is available from late spring through early fall. A second afternoon boat from the Island to Crisfield is usually available during warm weather months. All passengers are strongly advised to call in advance to confirm schedules and round-trip service.

Smith Island Cruises Memorial Day Weekend – October Departs Somers Cove Marina 12:30 p.m. 410-425-2771 smithislandcruises.com

Island Belle —Passenger Ferry, Freight and U.S. Mail Year Round Departs Crisfield City Dock 12:30 p.m. 410-425-2422

Captain Jason I— Passenger Ferry and Freight Year Round Departs Crisfield City Dock 12:30 p.m. 410-425-5931

Meals There are several restaurants on the island, open for set hours. Note: Tylerton is only accessible by water, so to enjoy a meal there, you’ll need boat access. There is no alcohol for sale on the island, so visitors wanting to imbibe should plan to bring their own.

Bayside Inn —also offer golf cart and bicycle rentals 4065 Smith Island Road Ewell, MD 21824

Harborside Deli—open daily, also stocks some limited staples Whitelock Road Ewell, MD 21824 410-425-2525

Smith Island Bakery — Smith Island cake and local handmade gifts 20926 Caleb Jones Road Ewell, MD 21824 Phone: 410-425-2018 Email: [email protected] Open daily from 9 am to 4 pm, 7 days a week

Drum Point Market —includes a gift shop 21162 Center Street Tylerton, MD 21866 410-425-2108

Lodging There are several bed and breakfasts on the island, as well as a thriving market for Airbnbs. Note: If you book an Airbnb, plan to bring your groceries from the mainland. Limited staples are available at the local market for a only few hours each day.

Smith Island Inn B&B (Ewell)—3 bedrooms, a sitting room, and a fully equipped kitchen on one of Ewell’s tidy streets. Bikes and kayak rentals available too. Address: 20947 Caleb Jones Rd, Ewell, MD 21824

Susan’s on Smith Bed and Breakfast (Ewell)—2 bedrooms and a large front porch overlooking Ewell harbor. Address: 20759 Caleb Jones Road, Ewell, Maryland 21824

Island Time B&B (Rhodes Point)—whole house rental with sweeping water views and double, wrap-around front porches. Address: 3376 Smith Island Road, Ewell, MD 21824

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Smith Island

Twelve miles off the coast of Crisfield, Smith Island is Maryland’s only inhabited island that is accessible only by water. The three-by-five-mile archipelago is home to approximately 200 year-round residents, some of whom can trace their ancestors back to the original 17th-century settlers and speak with a distinct dialect specific to the island. The main village of Ewell joins Rhodes Point by bridge and Tylerton sits on a neighboring island. Most everything arrives on the ferry/freight boats. Roundtrip passenger service is available from cruise and passenger ferries. Visitors will find opportunities to eat fresh seafood at the restaurants in Ewell and Tylerton, book a relaxing weekend at an Inn or vacation rental in either of the villages, paddle the water trails, take a tour, bake the Maryland State Dessert - Smith Island Cake (or just grab a slice), and more.

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Visiting Maryland’s Mysterious Smith Island

Chesapeake Bay’s Smith Island has been isolated for so long, accessible only by boat, that its residents are said to have a sort of relic accent. An island that comes and goes with the tide itself, transportation is dictated by the daily ebb and flow of its waters.

This doesn’t mean that visiting Maryland’s mysterious Smith Island is out of reach, you’ll just need to plan properly for your trip east of Point Lookout State Park.

Plan for flexibility and a slow-paced way of life, and don’t miss out on trying Smith Island Cake!

About Smith Island

Made up of three communities, Tylerton, Ewell, and Rhodes Point, Smith Island is on the border of Maryland and Virginia’s territorial waters.

You can spend lots of time exploring the island and its towns by foot, but make sure to get out on the water- the main attraction of Smith Island!

We recommend taking a walking tour through Ewell, kayaking from Tylerton, and enjoying a fresh seafood meal that may have likely been caught by crabbers you saw on the way to the island. Or, head out and do some fishing of your own!

Bring your own kayak on the ferry or stay at a B&B that provides you with one because this is a must-do activity around Smith Island.

Getting to Smith Island

This isn’t one of your attractions near Sandy Point, up north, but is much further south in the Chesapeake Bay, closest to Crisfield, Maryland.

You’ll take a boat or ferry to Smith Island, with the closest access point being Crisfield, of course. Three different ferries depart from the area and take you into Ewell, though you can also get there by departing from Point Lookout, on the other side of the bay.

There is also an option to get to Tylerton, if that suits you.

Ferries from Crisfield to Ewell:

Smith Island Cruises
Island Belle (also a U.S. mail carrier)
Captain Jason I

Ferries from Crisfield to Tylerton:

Captain Jason II

Ferries from Point Lookout to Ewell:

“Islands are natural workshops of evolution.” Richard Dawkins

You can get to Crisfield, Maryland via Route 13 South below Salisbury, before taking the exit for Route 413 / Crisfield Highway all the way into the city before catching your boat to Smith Island.

It’s important to note that the water dictates daily schedules and can easily lead to unexpected changes. Since the island itself is only accessible by boat, it is by far the main method of vehicular transportation.

As you get around the island, you’ll find that boats are second only to walking across the land. Golf carts and bikes are available too, as secondary modes of ground transportation.

The Impact of the Tides

Regardless of whether you’re traveling to the island via the water, or navigating the small chunk of land, rising and lowering tides will control every aspect of your scheduling. It’s important to be mindful of this not only from a safety perspective, but so that you can have the most convenience.

For example, lowering tides will make it much more difficult for you to make it back to the dock if you’ve gone out on a boating excursion. Let’s say you take out a fishing boat or opt to go kayaking around sunset. You’d be able to leave just fine, paddling easily or enjoying a smooth boat ride, but as you head back to the island the lowering of the tide will nearly guarantee your boat scraping the mud below, if it doesn’t get stuck altogether.

Of course, this could end up being a fun vacation story of mishap and adventure, or you could really have a tough time figuring out what to do. To stick to the safe side of things, go out into the water around midday!

Alternate Smith Island Ferry – Reedville, VA

Of course, our focus is on Maryland, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of ways to access and explore the Chesapeake Bay. With Smith Island bordering the nautical territories of both states, we can’t forget about Virginia!

Hop about the Captain Evans boat from historic Reedville, at the tip of Virginia’s Northern Neck and just 13 miles from Smith Island.

Smith Island Vacation Rentals

Whether you choose to stay at the Smith Island Inn, which provides guests with complimentary kayaks during their stay, or one of many other B&B’s on the island, we think that this is the best way to stay! You can always look at online booking sites, but with a small population of about just 220 locals, part of the Smith Island experience lies in this sort of quintessential space offered by kind, welcoming hosts.

Smith Island Highlight – Fishing

Fishing from a motorized boat is recommended, though we urge you again to keep the tide in mind and venture out closer to midday.

To start, you can launch your boat at Little Boat Harbor (02 Brick Kiln Road, Crisfield, MD 21817) or Somers Cove (715 Broadway, Crisfield, MD, 21817.) There are paved parking lots near both boat launches.

There are plenty of tidal bays and a creek that bisect Smith Island, and provide opportunities to fish striped bass, speckled trout, redfish, flounder, and bluefish

Using the Tides to Your Advantage

The tides around Smith Island may dictate your comings and goings, we recommend lodging on the island overnight once you’re in nearby waters, but they also help you find the best places to fish.

Currents will give way to lots of predator fish just waiting for schools of prey to swim by. So, navigating the ebb and flow of the tide is not only a factor when it comes to your personal timing, but also affects how successfully you’ll fish.

Enjoy a Getaway on Chesapeake Bay

Now, Smith Island may be the most unique, even mysterious, island we’ve encountered but it is by no means the only highlight of the Chesapeake Bay.

In fact, we recently talked about sailing from Annapolis and its proximity to the beautiful Chesapeake Bay.

Whether its water-based activities or a quick getaway you seek, Maryland’s Chesapeake Bay has so much to offer that its easy to keep coming back.

If you’re a local and think there’s anything that we could do well to share, let us know on socials @Marylandrecommendations and we’ll be all ears.

For more helpful resources about lesser-known gems in Maryland, take a look through our blog!

All about maryland’s well-kept secret, hart-miller island state park, exploring nature’s wonderland: your guide to patapsco valley state park, greenbrier state park, the ultimate place to unwind with nature.

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Your guide to the wild side of Virginia's Eastern Shore

Smith island.

Photo by Gordon Campbell | At Altitude Gallery

Owned and managed by: The Nature Conservancy Virginia Coast Reserve .

Smith Island is open year-round to the public for low-impact, recreational day use, such as hiking, bird watching, surf fishing and photography. All areas above the high tide line are closed April through August. Please help protect sensitive habitats and wildlife by observing all visitation policies and seasonal restrictions.

Visiting Smith Island

The Seaside is a dynamic landscape with constantly shifting tides, sands and weather. Safety is a top concern when visiting this remote area with limited accessibility and services. Stay alert, come prepared and be aware of island use policies.

Open for recreational DAY use:

Prohibited at ALL times:

Seasonal restrictions (April through August):

CLOSED above high tide line. Remain at the water’s edge and below the high tide line at all times in all areas to avoid bird nesting habitat
Do not walk on or traverse upper beaches, dunes or mudflats
Respect posted bird nesting areas

For information about our policies, please contact the Virginia Coast Reserve office:

Call us at (757) 442-3049
Visit our website
Learn more in our FAQs section .

Suggested access points

Smith Island is most easily accessed via the inlet beach at the south end of the island (Smith Island Inlet). Access to other parts of the island requires extensive knowledge of the waterways and is not recommended for inexperienced visitors. The Cape Charles Lighthouse located at the southern end of the island is owned and managed by the U.S. Coast Guard and is not open to the public.

About Smith Island

Situated at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, Smith Island is easily recognized by the Cape Charles Lighthouse on its southern end – not to be confused with the Smith Point Lighthouse on the western shore of the Chesapeake Bay. The Cape Charles Lighthouse is no longer operational and is owned and managed by the U.S. Coast Guard. It was actually the third lighthouse built on the island, the locations of the first two now lie under the ocean to the east.

Smith Island’s unique geography is characterized by highly dynamic, active beachfront along the northern three-quarters of the island and now forested sets of ancient beach ridges along the interior of the southern quarter of the island. The island is one of Virginia’ most important sites for beach nesting birds, particularly along the dynamic habitats at the north end where island migration and overwash events maintain the open beach habitats for nesting. Visitors can often see aquaculture crews at work within the shallow bays and sand flats that lie to the west of the island. These are incredibly important areas that make it possible for the Eastern Shore to be one of the biggest hard clam producers in the country – boaters should be alert for signs and stakes that mark the sensitive aquaculture areas within the coastal bays.

Discover a Coastal Wilderness

The Atlantic coastline of Virginia’s Eastern Shore is a unique coastal wilderness that spans 70 miles from the Virginia/Maryland border to the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. The region is characterized by vast, mostly undeveloped marshes, barrier island beaches and coastal lagoons that support globally important populations of migratory birds, are the site of intensive large scale oyster reef and eelgrass restoration projects, and provide extensive recreation opportunities in remote settings. Learn more about the natural history of this amazing coastal landscape.

OWNERSHIP AND LAND MANAGEMENT

The nature conservancy virginia coast reserve.

The Nature Conservancy is a global conservation organization dedicated to conserving the lands and waters on which all life depends. Guided by science, the Conservancy creates innovative, on-the-ground solutions to our world’s toughest challenges so that nature and people can thrive together.

The Virginia Coast Reserve (VCR) is a landscape program within the Virginia Chapter of the Conservancy that is headquartered in Nassawadox, Virginia on the Eastern Shore. VCR is made up of 14 barrier and marsh islands, extensive salt marshes and several mainland properties including the Brownsville Preserve. Programs at VCR address conservation topics on the Eastern Shore such as migratory bird conservation, marine habitat restoration, coastal resilience, land protection and outreach and education. VCR works collaboratively with federal and state partners to manage The Nature Conservancy’s properties, including the barrier islands and Brownsville Preserve, to ensure the protection of sensitive natural resources while also accommodating for low-impact visitor use.

Explore Our Seaside Partners

The seaside of Virginia’s Eastern Shore is almost entirely owned and managed by non-profit, state and federal agencies. These partners share the common goal of protecting natural resources, while balancing sustainable recreational and economic use of the seaside. Learn more about our partnership .

Have a question? Can’t find the right information? Contact us!

Web design provided by Neil McCoy

Smith Island & Smith Island Center

Place Categories: Museums and Trails & Byways Place Tags: All American Road and Chesapeake Country

Smith Island is Maryland’s sole inhabited island. A true island community twelve miles west in the heart of the Chesapeake Bay, Smith Island is accessible only by a 45-minute boat ride. The marshy archipelago, just three-by-five miles, is home to 200 year-round residents in the communities of Ewell, Rhodes Point, and Tylerton. Smith Island is a paddlers paradise, with a dozen marked water trails meandering through the “guts,” or creeks, of the island’s 8,000 acres of tidal marshland teeming with wildlife. As a car-free island, the flat, cross-island avenues provide enjoyable walks or smooth cycles through the marshes with spectacular views to the Chesapeake Bay.

Opportunities abound for crabbing, fishing, birding (including viewing nesting pelicans) and scenic photography. Authentic Smith Island experiences include touring with a local waterman, progging the area for arrowheads–evidence of Native American occupation for over 12,000 years–or just talking with an islander to hear the distinct dialect and phrases unchanged since the European settlers arrived in the 17th century.

A visit to the Smith Island Center and Cultural Museum is a must. This museum celebrates Smith Island’s extraordinary natural environment and maritime culture with exhibits about watermen’s work and families, traditional regional watercraft, and an examination of the island’s unique lifestyle–past and present. Enjoy a meal of the freshest seafood around and Smith Island Cake, a nine-layered frosted cake unique to the Island and Maryland’s State Dessert. Matchcoat Sojourner, a Chesapeake Bay Storyteller, provides culinary tours of the island. Participants meet resident watermen, crab pickers and chefs, and learn about authentic Chesapeake lifestyles and cuisine. Smith Island retains the natural charm of an historic port–but it is very much active–with crab shanties housing soon-to-be soft-shelled crabs and workboats harvesting the bounty of the waters. Life here still moves to the age-old rhythms of time and tide.

May through September is the best time to visit Smith Island. Located approximately 12 miles offshore from Crisfield, several boats leave at 12:30pm daily in season. Visitors are encouraged to visit www.visitsomerset.com or call 800-521-9189 for additional information.

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Smith Island & Smith Island Center

Off-Beat Places , United States

Smith Island, Maryland: a Mysterious, Vibrant Little Getaway

Did you know… there’s an island in the Chesapeake Bay that’s been so isolated, for so many years, that to this day its residents speak with an actual “relic accent?” Did you know the island is only accessible by boat? That it’s one of the oldest English-speaking settlements in the region? And , that it has its very own cake? Welp—there is. Smith Island. Right on the Chesapeake’s Maryland-Virginia border. Before we even get started, let’s have you experience the Smith Island accent. Because, if not the cake, this is what really sold me on going.

Audio Credit: Trent Swanson’s YouTube video .

NOTE: THIS POST HAS BEEN SPONSORED AND/OR CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS THROUGH WHICH I EARN A COMMISSION AT NO ADDITIONAL COST TO YOU. SUPPORT A WOMAN-OWNED SMALL BUSINESS (LIKE MINE!) TODAY. (P.S. ALL VIEWS EXPRESSED ARE MY OWN. OF COURSE.)

How Did You Even Discover Smith Island?

The island itself, the smith island accent, smith island cake, the official state dessert of maryland.

Kayak the Waterways

Crabbing, Oystering, or Fishing

Ride a bike to rhodes point, visit the smith island cultural center, boat over to tylerton, relax on a private beach, bird-watching, mingle with the locals, smith island ferry departure details, where to leave your car in crisfield, transportation, cell signals & wifi are spotty, there are no atms, technically, it’s a “dry island”, convenient store, there were bugs, there are jellyfish, respect the marshes, get there soon, did you find this post helpful.

So, there I was… yearning for some weeklong beach getaway. And all available accommodations were just… not inspiring me. I suppose it was that it was late in the season and a lot of places had already been booked. Or that boardwalks packed like sardines and bars where all semblance of social distancing goes out the window just wasn’t getting me excited. So, I did what I do and started searching for something a little outside-the-box. That’s when I discovered Smith Island on Atlas Obscura .

The more I read, the more intrigued I was. This place is my kinda jam. For sure. An isolated island civilization with a legit Elizabethan accent just a couple hours away? Count. me. in. There’s a lot to know about this little place. A lot to do. And a lot of carefully planned logistics required to get there. So keep reading. And learn how this unusual little Chesapeake island stole my heart.

A Boozy Sunday Brunch in DC with Tinggly
Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum in Weston, West Virginia

All About Smith Island

Smith Island sits in the Chesapeake Bay right on the Maryland-Virginia border. For “DMV” residents (Delaware-Maryland-Virginia), it’s just north of Virginia’s Tangier Island, if you’re at all familiar with that. It’s only accessible by boat and, while you will find vehicles on the island, yours … isn’t allowed. (I’ll be honest, though, there’s really not much of a need for one, anyway.)

Smith Island has around 200 year-round residents all told. These residents live primarily in three different itty bitty towns, all located on the Maryland side of the island—Ewell (“the capital”), Rhodes Point, and Tylerton. While Ewell and Rhodes Point are connected by a road, to reach Tylerton, you’d have to go, again, by boat. Just north of the island is Maryland’s Martin National Wildlife Refuge.

Two tall pine trees stand by a serene body of water, surrounded by marsh grass under a clear blue sky. A white egret wades in the shallow water, adding a peaceful element to the natural landscape.

The island was settled in the 17th century and has managed to retain its “relic accent,” attributed to the Cornwall and Dorset regions of the United Kingdom. It’s technically referred to as an “Elizabethan accent” and is super similar to North Carolina’s Ocracoke Brogue, or High Tider dialect. To me, it sounds like a mix between super rural Southern and Irish (in some instances). But I’m no linguist.

Smith Island Cake is a distinctive kind of cake, and one that was eventually named the official Maryland state dessert.

It’s anywhere from 8–15 layers, made with condensed milk. It also typically uses fudge frosting, instead of buttercream, since fudge held longer for watermen on autumn oyster harvest.

The cake is usually a yellow cake with chocolate frosting, but comes in a plethora of flavor combinations for tourists. The #AP4L and I tried chocolate… and lemon… and coconut-pineapple…

A slice of layered chocolate smith island cake with rich frosting sits on a plate, accompanied by fresh, juicy strawberry halves. The cake features multiple thin layers of sponge cake and chocolate filling, creating a visually appealing and appetizing dessert.

Things To Do On Smith Island

I actually kind of feel like things to do on Smith Island could be an entire post unto itself—and maybe I’ll write one elaborating further on all the details—but, for all intents and purposes of an introductory article…

Kayak the Smith Island Waterways

Smith Island is home to miles and miles of marshland waterways and kayaks can be found all over the island. Our AirBnB cottage had a couple for use free of charge, and from what I could tell in my lodging search, most rentals there offer the same.

Go it alone, or hire a guide. Suggested paddles include going down to Tylerton or across the way to “Goat Island,” an island inhabited by non-indigenous, free-range goats. ( Yes , there is a story there.) A good place to find other water trails and maps is Paddle Smith Island .

A white goat with large, curved horns is partially hidden among lush green bushes. The goat's head and horns are prominently visible, contrasting with the dense foliage that surrounds it.

Crabbing and oystering are the primary method of income for the residents of Smith Island. And you can hire local residents to take you out for the day. You can also support the local economy by purchasing fresh crabs for dinner or ordering them ready-made. Information on both can be found online, but you can also literally just show up to the island and ask a neighbor.

A tranquil waterside scene featuring a small dock with boats tied up next to rustic buildings, reflecting in the calm water under a sky with scattered clouds. A wooden post with a rope in the foreground adds depth to the picturesque setting.

This was a super fun mini-escapade for the #AdventurePartnerForLife and I. Bike rentals ( old bikes) can be made at the Bayside Inn in Ewell. You can do a whole day, of course, but we just did a couple hours. Enough to bike the two miles to Rhodes Point and back.

The fun part was that the tide comes in midday and covers the one road over, so we cycled over through the water in our sandals, which was sometimes more than six inches deep. You could see the crabs skittering away as you biked past, but every now and then, one would bow up and throw its claws around. (Don’t worry—blue crabs are pretty small and mostly harmless.)

I’ll be honest that there’s not much to see in Rhodes Point itself (a boat graveyard at the very end of the road, some super old homes, and an interesting enough cemetery), but the marshland and birdlife on the way out is incredible.

The Smith Island Cultural Center is small, but mighty . It’s super easy to find if you’re in Ewell and definitely worth a quick tour. Learn about the incredibly interesting island history and have a chat with the locals. Keep in mind the island population is so small, all the families know each other—and have for generations—and they’re almost all descendants of the original settlers on the island. If you visit the Ewell or Rhodes Point cemeteries, you’ll see Evans, Tylers, and Whitelocks galore.

Sadly, we didn’t make it over to Tylerton during our stay on Smith island, but we did hear good things. So, someone go and report back to me! There are regularly scheduled boat rides over from Ewell, and I’m told the architecture there is pretty interesting. If you’re anything like me, you could probably wander around for a solid couple hours just photographing.

A peaceful waterside scene at sunset, featuring a wooden post with a coiled rope in the foreground and a serene expanse of water reflecting the colorful sky. In the distance, a small tree-lined island and a vivid horizon complete the picturesque view.

Another thing we didn’t get to experience—chillin’ on a private beach. Though we were invited to by locals, so I know it’s an option. And I think there are several locations to choose from, too. Just ask someone and take a kayak. Had it not been our very first night on the island after a day of driving and boating, we probably would’ve joined them because, frankly, it sounds like a dream.

The birdlife is absolutely incredible on Smith Island. I can’t stress this enough. I wouldn’t exactly call myself a “bird-watcher” and I’m certainly not an ornithologist, but I couldn’t get enough of the birds there. They’re everywhere, and they’re unafraid. On our bike ride, we got so close to massive birds before they even blinked at us. And, on our return ferry ride, I saw the most gigantic pelican. Definitely a fun find.

A white egret stands gracefully in shallow water, surrounded by tall, vibrant green marsh grass. The bird's reflection shimmers on the water's surface, adding to the serene and natural ambiance of the scene.

One of my favorite parts of this getaway was talking to the locals and learning all about the island and family history from folks. The family lineages go way, way back, and there’s a lot of history between the families that can be unpacked. …We even heard a little shade thrown here and there.

How To Get To Smith Island

I wouldn’t say getting to Smith Island is “difficult” per se, but I will say that there’s not that much information available online and it was just a touch tricky, so read the following details carefully.

The ferry departs to Ewell and Tylerton year-round from Crisfield, Maryland. I’m finding there are also seasonal departures from Point Lookout, Maryland and Reedville, Virginia as well, but I can’t personally confirm those details.

While there are a couple of boat options, we jumped on Captain Otis Tyler’s Island Belle II, which also happens to serve as the Smith Island mail boat. It departs the Crisfield City Dock twice a day at 12:30 and 5:00 pm and takes about 45 minutes. Return ferries are 7:00 am and 3:30 pm daily.*
The city dock is the picturesque dock at the very end of Highway 413, which is also West Main Street. I couldn’t say if the ferry docks at the same slip consistently, but there aren’t really defined slips at this dock. For us, it was just to the left on the other side of a covered sitting area. ( Before the sort of big dock gazebo at the very, very end.)
Update June 2024 : Back when we went, it was $20 per person each way, paid in cash on the boat itself . What with inflation, the price has probably gone up by now, but they don’t post prices on any website. You have to call their number to get prices. (We saw tons and tons of boat tour offices in Crisfield that made us think we needed to pre-book tickets. You do not need to do this.) There was a discount for same-day round-trip rides, but I don’t know if that’s still the case. Either way, let Captain Otis know your return plans.
We contacted Captain Otis ahead of time each ride and they drove our cooler and bags to and from the house for us so we didn’t have to drag it down the road ourselves. (It wouldn’t have been horribly difficult to do and isn’t far anyway, but if you’ve got a big family with a lot of stuff, it might not be that awesome.)
You can also check out Smith Island Cruises for an alternative option . Their website has more info online about dates, discounts, and group rates, and an option to book online if you want to plan ahead.

*While the return ferry times might not seem the most convenient, we learned that chartering a private boat for the ride is in the $200–$300 range, so just suck it up.

A serene coastal scene at dusk, featuring a solitary boat in the distance against a backdrop of a blue sky with hints of pink. A small patch of land with a few trees juts out into the water, adding a tranquil element to the expansive view of the sea.

Parking is available in Crisfield for a nominal fee. It took us awhile to figure out where to park and how to pay, so the information in this particular section is gold. (See accompanying photos and map below.)

You park in a grassy area in front of “JP [something] & [something] Lumber,” right at the corner of North 11th and Broad Streets. There will be a row of cars already there and, when you see the building I’m referencing, you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about with the name, so don’t worry. It’s a beige building with an orange roof.
There’s a small metal dropbox by the front door where you pay cash for parking. (It says there’s a camera, but I’m pretty sure it’s just an honor system.) It was $3 per day. (But again, inflation, so probably changed now… not that the internet will tell me the exact price…) So bring cash and bring some singles.
Our car was parked there for five days and was totally fine.

The exterior of a metal building with a red roof, partially showing the sign "J.P. WE LUMB." Two cars are parked in front on a patch of grass under a clear blue sky. The building appears to be a commercial property, possibly a lumber or hardware store.

Practical Information

Oh, you know there’s gonna be some strange info with this little island. Which is exactly why I wanted to visit it.

As mentioned before, you can’t take your car to the island. But you can rent golf carts and bikes at Ewell’s Bayside Inn. You can not take the golf carts all the way to Rhodes Point from Ewell, unfortunately, because they’ll die, but the bikes are a free-for-all.

The bikes are old and a little janky, but there’s a small selection to choose from and they ride somewhat fine. (We both had at least one really low tire, but the #AP4L suggested it was for gripping. I’m not so sure…)

A weathered bicycle with a front basket is parked on a gravel path beside a calm marina, featuring wooden docks and several moored boats. The sky is filled with scattered clouds, adding a serene and slightly overcast atmosphere to the picturesque waterfront scene.

We never really had cell signals while there. And the WiFi at the cottage randomly crashed a few times for an hour to a couple hours at a time. Nevertheless, the #AdventurePartner was able to work remotely fairly seamlessly, I’m just not sure I’d 1000% count on it.

There are no ATMs on the island and everything is cash-based, so do come prepared. Things you might want to spend money on while you’re there include boat tours, the ferry ride, a evening at the Bayside Inn Restaurant, fresh crabs or catering delivery, Smith Island cake (!!!), cart and bike rentals, donations for the Cultural Center, and incidentals at the itty bitty Exxon gas station.

What this seemed to mean (to me) is that, while the islanders themselves are very religious and you won’t find any alcohol being sold on Smith Island, you can bring your own and partake discreetly. The main Smith Island website plainly states this , our cottage information confirmed it, and we were even invited to a local happy hour while there. We casually enjoyed our Maryland Meadworks mead and wine and cider while there without issue. Just be aware and be respectful, check with your proprietor before bringing alcohol, and don’t make a scene.

A historical marker for Smith Island stands in front of a charming white church with a brown shingle roof. The sign provides information about the island's history and early settlers, while the church's architecture, including its steeple and stained glass windows, adds to the quaint and historical ambiance of the scene.

It seems silly to say this since the island is so tiny, but it took us a while to locate the convenient store. It’s right at the Exxon station where the boats fuel up, on the back side of the building facing the water. Cash only, of course. Super small. But it has candy, sodas, some food items, and a small toiletry selection.

Lots of bugs. So bring bug spray, bring antihistamines, and bring Band-aids. They weren’t so bad out on the water, but on land, they were really unpleasant, I’ll be honest. And there was one sort of brown fly that was particularly persistent. I’m sure the type and quantity vary depending on the time of year, so maybe we just picked a bad time. And, if you’re spending most of your time on the water, it shouldn’t be a huge deal anyway. But come prepared.

Really not a big deal, but just a heads up. We never happened to see any because the rainfall had been so heavy, but there are little jellies in the Chesapeake. The locals call them “nettles.”

Duh, right? But, seriously:

Respect the birdlife.
Appropriately discard your litter.
Don’t go walking around through the marshland; you can get stuck.
Make sure you have a waterway map on you.
And, bring water on any excursions.

A stunning sunset over a calm body of water, with the sky transitioning from deep blue to vibrant shades of orange and pink near the horizon. Silhouettes of trees and landforms are visible in the distance, adding to the tranquil and picturesque nature of the scene.

It’s worth mentioning that Smith Island has lost over 3,300 acres of wetland in recent years due to rising sea levels. A 50-year-long restoration project is in the works in the hopes of getting back some 2,000 acres of it.

And, as is the case with all things awesome in this world, I don’t think the island will stay a secret for very long. The neighboring Tangier Island has reportedly already been taken over by younger couples buying vacation properties and, of course, the local island flavor gets more and more depleted because of it. (So we were told.)

What this all means is you just need to get there soon to truly enjoy Smith Island in all its quirk and splendor.

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Jordan Campbell

I'm Jordan, and I'm a flashpacking, road-trip junkie with an insatiable appetite for the road less traveled. Follow me to 67 countries and all 50 states for off-beat misadventures and tasty libations you've never heard of.

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About St. Mary's

Island Excursion

Smith Island Cruises

Embark on a scenic day trip to Smith Island, Maryland's only inhabited offshore island.

Depart from Point Lookout Marina and arrive at the picturesque island, known for its incredible scenery, outdoor activities, mouth-watering crabcakes, vibrant wildlife, and world-famous Smith Island Cakes. Tickets are available here.

Take in the sights and sounds of the majestic Chesapeake Bay aboard the Twister, a multi-level boat with indoor and outdoor seating, as well as a restroom. The trip to and from the island is approximately two hours each way.

Arrive at Ewell, the main village on the island, and spend two and a half hours exploring and experiencing the unique scenery, culture, and cuisine. The island is walkable, but you may also rent a golf cart or bicycle to traverse the lush landscape, spotting wildlife and breathing in the fresh air.

Stop by the Bayside Inn for some of the best seafood on the Eastern Shore. Indulge in a family-style luncheon, or order from the menu, which includes local delicacies like crab cakes, soft crabs, hot crab dip, fried shrimp, clam baskets, chicken baskets, and more.

Make sure you leave room for dessert - Smith Island Cake is a must-try. Go traditional with the classic layered yellow cake + chocolate frosting, or mix it up with one of the specialty flavors. There are even gluten-free options!

The 2023 season lasts from June 22nd until September 3rd. Cruises will depart every Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday at 10am during this period. A handful of cruises are scheduled postseason on the following dates: September 9, 10, 16, & 17.

Reservations are strongly recommended. Day-of tickets can be purchased with cash at the boat if additional space is available. Plan to arrive early as the boat leaves promptly at 10am.

Individual and group rates, as well as special packages, are available.

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Smith Island Cruises offers day trips to historic Smith Island, Maryland's only inhabited offshore island known for its world-famous Smith Island Cake. Cruises...

Point Lookout Marina

Located in Smith Creek, a deep water cove off of the Potomac River, Point Lookout Marina has 160 boat slips and provides water, electric, gas, and other...

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Watch CBS News

Maps show Tropical Depression Debby's path and forecast

By Emily Mae Czachor

Updated on: August 8, 2024 / 11:38 PM EDT / CBS News

Debby made landfall for a second time early Thursday as a tropical storm near Bulls Bay, South Carolina, the National Hurricane Center said. It weakened to a tropical depression later in the day and is forecast to move up the East Coast, spreading heavy rain and possible flooding through the mid-Atlantic and Northeast by the weekend.

Debby first made landfall as a Category 1 hurricane early Monday on Florida's Big Bend coast. As of 11 p.m. EDT Thursday, it had maximum sustained winds of 30 mph, the Miami-based hurricane center said. Debby's center was about 80 miles northeast of Charlotte, North Carolina, and some 90 miles northwest of Raleigh, North Carolina. It was moving north-northeast at 26 mph.

The storm's generally sluggish pace means Debby has been lingering for a long time in places it passes over, making flooding risks high across the regions in its path.

As the storm heads toward the Northeast, meteorologists said, Debby would most likely converge with a frontal zone farther up the East Coast — essentially meaning it will cross over an atmospheric threshold and into a different air mass — and become an extratropical cyclone as it dumps rain on places as far north as upstate New York and Vermont.

Tropical cyclone is an umbrella term that encompasses tropical depressions, tropical storms and hurricanes, which differ based on their strength. An extratropical cyclone can be as weak as a tropical depression or as strong as a tropical storm, but unlike tropical cyclones, they are cold at the core and therefore can't quickly grow into a hurricane.

Storm surge forecast

The map below, updated Thursday morning, showed the highest potential peak storm surge heights, including tides. Forecasters noted that the timing of peak surge and high tide in a given area, and whether they coincide or not, will ultimately determine how destructive the inundation will be.

Heavy rainfall totals dominate the forecast

The hurricane center said Thursday that Debby "is expected to produce an additional 3 to 6 inches of rainfall with locally higher amounts across portions of southeastern North Carolina, leading to maximum storm total amounts as high as 15 inches," the hurricane center said. "Additional rainfall of 1 to 3 inches over portions of eastern South Carolina will bring maximum storm total amounts as high as 20 to 25 inches. Considerable flooding is expected across portions of eastern South Carolina and southeast North Carolina through Friday."

"From central North Carolina northward across portions of Virginia, 3 to 7 inches with local amounts to 10 inches, are expected through Friday," forecasters said. "This rainfall will likely result in areas of considerable flash and urban flooding, with river flooding possible."

"From portions of Maryland north through Upstate New York and Vermont, 2 to 4 inches, with local amounts to 6 inches, are expected through Friday night," the hurricane center said. "This will likely result in areas of considerable flash and urban flooding as well as river flooding."

South Carolina
North Carolina
Tropical Storm
Gulf of Mexico
National Hurricane Center

Emily Mae Czachor is a reporter and news editor at CBSNews.com. She covers breaking news, often focusing on crime and extreme weather. Emily Mae has previously written for outlets including the Los Angeles Times, BuzzFeed and Newsweek.

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How to Visit Smith Island, Maryland
How to Visit Smith Island, Maryland
How to Visit Smith Island, Maryland
Visit Smith Island, MD. How to get there, things to see
How to Visit Smith Island, Maryland
How to Visit Smith Island, Maryland

COMMENTS

How to Visit Smith Island, Maryland
Smith Island is only accessible by boat, and you must take a ferry from Crisfield, Maryland to the island. Due to the ferry schedule, you pretty much have to spend at least one night on the island. There is only one guaranteed ferry that leaves Crisfield and goes to Smith Island every day at exactly 12:30 pm, and one ferry that leaves Smith ...
Smith Island
Day 3 we departed at 11AM by private boat with Captain Steve. All of the above was arranged by John. Oh! each morning Kathy, who owns the Smith Island Bakery prepared our breakfast. During our down time we enjoyed both morning and evening walks, visiting with the locals and simply relaxing. We loved every minute of our Smith Island visit.
17 Things to do on Smith Island, Maryland
Visit the Smith Island Crabmeat Co-op . While you are down at Tylerton, be sure to visit the Smith Island Crabmeat Co-op. This small business was formed by the wives of the watermen who wake up each morning to harvest crab and oysters around the Chesapeake. Unlike most crab processing facilities, this Co-op picks and packages the entire crab in ...
Smith Island, Maryland
Smith Island is Maryland's only inhabited Chesapeake Bay Island that is unattached to the mainland by bridge or causeway ( Tangier Island, located nearby and to the south, is located in Virginia). The island was first mapped by Captain John Smith in 1608. The island is named for Henry Smith of Jamestown, who was granted 1,000 acres there in 1679.
Smith Island
Smith Island, MD 21824. Get Directions. Contact. Local Phone: 410-425-3351. Map. Eastern Shore. Reviews August 17, 2023. ... Nice to Visit One Time. Smith Island is sinking into the Chesapeake and said to be gone by 2100; however, they are trying to restore it and take measures to save it. My husband and I explored the island on a hot, summer...
Smith Island, MD
The channel entering Smith Island, MD. ... Here's a sample dream itinerary for your visit to Smith Island: Day 1 - Arrive to Smith Island. Drive to Crisfield, Maryland, and ensure you are parked by noon or at least 30 minutes before the Ferry's departure. We asked Captain Otis if he ever holds up the boat, and he said he wouldn't hold ...
You Can Visit Smith Island, And Here's What To Do There
Address: 4065 Smith Island Rd, Ewell, MD 21824, United States. Hours: 11 AM - 6 PM. Cuisine: Seafood. Price: $. Visitors can also patron the only market on the island, Drumpoint Market, where the day's catches are sold. Next: The Victorian Era Seemed Glamorous, But Was Also An Era Of Unknown Dangers. Travel.
An extensive 3-day itinerary to Smith Island, Maryland
Weekend Getaways: An extensive 3-day itinerary to Smith Island, Maryland. Defined by its three small towns—Ewell, Rhodes Point and Tylerton—Smith Island provides an idyllic escape from reality. Drive time from NoVA: 3 hours and 15 minutes, plus 45-minute ferry ride. Outdoor enthusiasts will love escaping to these idyllic isles of the ...
Smith Island: The Most Beautiful Place You've Never Been
Island Time B&B (Rhodes Point)—whole house rental with sweeping water views and double, wrap-around front porches. Address: 3376 Smith Island Road, Ewell, MD 21824. Tags: Smith Island. Smith Island is a resilient outlier in the fading archipelago of Chesapeake Bay islands. Its secrets are waiting to be explored.
Smith Island
Discover the history and culture of Smith Island, Maryland's official dessert home, with authentic recipes and more.
Smith Island
Smith Island. Twelve miles off the coast of Crisfield, Smith Island is Maryland's only inhabited island that is accessible only by water. The three-by-five-mile archipelago is home to approximately 200 year-round residents, some of whom can trace their ancestors back to the original 17th-century settlers and speak with a distinct dialect specific to the island.
Experience Smith Island
From full-day island hopping excursions to pelican watching, Smith Island Cake baking demonstrations or fishing up soft shell crabs, our tours explore the people and places that make Smith magical. Smith Island, Maryland lies 12 miles offshore in the heart of the Chesapeake Bay. The island's small towns, Ewell, Tylerton, and Rhodes Point, were ...
Visiting Maryland's Mysterious Smith Island
Smith Island Highlight - Fishing. Fishing from a motorized boat is recommended, though we urge you again to keep the tide in mind and venture out closer to midday. To start, you can launch your boat at Little Boat Harbor (02 Brick Kiln Road, Crisfield, MD 21817) or Somers Cove (715 Broadway, Crisfield, MD, 21817.)
Smith Island
Smith Island Owned and managed by: The Nature Conservancy Virginia Coast Reserve. Smith Island is open year-round to the public for low-impact, recreational day use, such as hiking, bird watching, surf fishing and photography. All areas above the high tide line are closed April through August. Please help protect sensitive habitats and.
Smith Island & Smith Island Center
Smith Island is Maryland's sole inhabited island. A true island community twelve miles west in the heart of the Chesapeake Bay, Smith Island is accessible only by a 45-minute boat ride. ... May through September is the best time to visit Smith Island. Located approximately 12 miles offshore from Crisfield, several boats leave at 12:30pm daily ...
See the Bay: Smith Island, MD, A Unique Chesapeake Experience
Smith Island is a pretty special place. It is the last inhabited island in Maryland that is not accessible by car. The three-by-five-mile island chain is located about 12 miles west of Crisfield, MD, but feels in a world all its own. It is made up of three distinct villages with a total population of about 200 year-round residents.
Smith Island, Maryland
Smith Island is a collection of three distinct island communities - Tylerton, Rhodes Point, and Ewell, Maryland - on the Chesapeake Bay, on the border of Maryland and Virginia territorial waters in the United States. The island is the last inhabited island in Maryland that is not accessible by vehicle. (The Virginia portion of the island is not currently inhabited.)
Smith Island
532. Smith Island. trtash (Atlas Obscura User) Twelve miles west off the coast of Crisfield, Maryland, and accessible only by boat, is Smith Island. Once home to almost 1,000 occupants, the ...
Smith Island, Maryland: a Mysterious, Vibrant Little Getaway
Visit the Smith Island Cultural Center. The Smith Island Cultural Center is small, but mighty. It's super easy to find if you're in Ewell and definitely worth a quick tour. Learn about the incredibly interesting island history and have a chat with the locals. Keep in mind the island population is so small, all the families know each other ...
Smith Island Cruises
90°. Embark on a scenic day trip to Smith Island, Maryland's only inhabited offshore island. Depart from Point Lookout Marina and arrive at the picturesque island, known for its incredible scenery, outdoor activities, mouth-watering crabcakes, vibrant wildlife, and world-famous Smith Island Cakes. Take in the sights and sounds of the majestic ...
Smith Island: The Most Beautiful Place You've Never Been
In the heart of the Chesapeake Bay, Smith Island is a community shaped by water, tides, and tradition. Just off the southwestern edge of Maryland's Eastern Shore, broken shards of an ancient archipelago tumble down the main stem of the Chesapeake Bay.These scattered islands—Hoopers, Bloodworth, Holland, Smith, Tangier—have been waypoints and safe harbors since the days of the Chesapeake ...
Meet Everett Landon, Smith Island Tour Guide
Tours can be booked at experiencesmithisland.com or by calling (443) 783-2079. Find more details on Facebook, Instagram, and Google Business at Experience Smith Island LLC. Interview by Gwen Mayes. About the Interviewer: Gwen Mayes is a writer, life coach, workshop host, and docent for the Annapolis Maritime Museum and Park.
Smith Island Cruises
A relaxing cruise to Smith Island aboard the "Twister" or "Chelsea Lane Tyler", only one hour from Ocean City. Passengers only, bicycles permitted with charge. ... Hours See website for hours. Location. 4065 Smith Island Rd. Smith Island, MD 21824. Get Directions. Contact. Local Phone: 410-425-2771. Map. Eastern Shore. Amenities Admission ...
Maps show Tropical Storm Debby's path and forecast
The storm's generally sluggish pace, now about the same as an average person walking, means Debby is lingering for a long time in places it passes over, making flooding risks high across the ...

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17 Things to do on Smith Island, Maryland

Things to do on Smith Island

Visit the Smith Island Crabmeat Co-op

Try Smith Island Cake

Try the crabcakes

Visit the Smith Island Cultural Center Museum

Send a postcard from the post office

Find the hidden beach on the nature reserve

Visit Goat Island

Get your hair done at the one salon, Island Styles

Visit the antique store

Take your bike across the island to Rhode’s Point

Charter a boat

Attend a church service

Rent a golf cart to see the island

Watch a sunset in the middle of the bay

Pick up some souvenirs at Bayside Gifts

Get up super early and watch the watermen in action

Where to Stay on Smith Island

Bizzy’s Bungalow

The Pearl on Smith Island

Frequently Asked Questions about Visiting Smith Island, Maryland

How do you get to Smith Island?

How much does it cost to get to Smith Island?

Can you kayak around Smith Island?

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