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Scotland Travel Guide

Last Updated: April 1, 2024

Partially conquered by the Romans, Scotland is a land with a turbulent past. It was invaded countless times by the English during the Middle Ages before the Treaty of Union in 1707 united the continent (an unpopular move at the time). Since then, it’s been a part of the United Kingdom (though there is a growing movement for independence).

While Scotland may be a small country (only 5.4 million people call it home), it’s had a huge impact on the direction of the world. Economist Adam Smith, inventor of the telephone Alexander Graham Bell, novelist Robert Louis Stevenson (he wrote Treasure Island ), philosopher David Hume, ecologist John Muir — the list of famous Scots goes on.

I love visiting Scotland. The people, the jovial spirit, the landscape, the booze — Scotland never disappoints (ok, maybe a little with the food). It’s an incredible destination for road trips so make sure you get out of the cities and into the highlands with their rich jagged landscapes. And be sure to head west to the islands of Islay, Jura, and Mull.

This travel guide to Scotland can help you plan where to go, what to see, how to save money, and everything in between!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Scotland

Click Here for City Guides

Top 5 things to see and do in scotland.

1. Explore the Scottish Highlands

Visit the highlands of Scotland for moody mountains, rugged terrain, glaciers, lochs, and kilt-clad Scotsmen. While the land may be harsh and unforgiving, you haven’t really seen Scotland until you’ve been here. Don’t miss Glencoe, Cairngorms National Park, Inverness, and the Isle of Skye.

2. Visit Edinburgh

Edinburgh is a glorious city filled with medieval cobblestone streets, lots of green space, free museums, a huge castle, and maybe even some ghosts. There’s a lot to do here so be sure to spend a few days. It’s an amazing place.

3. Celebrate Hogmanay

Hogmanay is one of the largest New Year’s celebrations in the world, attracting over 100,000 people for the two-day festival. The modern iteration has musical acts, a torchlight procession, multiple fireworks displays, and a large street party.

4. Drink whisky in Islay

Whisky has a long history on Islay . It’s been made there since the 16th–century — first in backyards and then, starting in the 19th-century, in big distilleries. Over the years, whisky from the island came to be considered a specialty and is famous around the world.

5. Visit Inverness

Besides the historic buildings in the Old Town, there is a great selection of places to eat and drink, Inverness Castle, the Inverness Museum and Art Gallery, and a Victorian Market. Plus, it is close to Loch Ness (it’s less than a 30-minute drive away), a bunch of distilleries, and a few golf courses.

Other Things to See and Do in Scotland

1. try to find nessie.

Loch Ness is one of the most famous lochs (lakes) in Scotland. It’s the alleged home to Nessie, aka the Loch Ness Monster, a creature said to live in the loch. The first “sightings” date back to the 1870s, though there is no definitive proof that any such creature exists. Nonetheless, the myth perseveres, making Loch Ness a popular destination to visit. While here, you can take a cruise, hike in the nearby hills, and enjoy some of the smaller nearby towns and villages like Dores or the nearby ruins of Urquhart Castle. The best way to get here is to travel to Inverness, from which Loch Ness is close enough to take a day trip to (it’s just a 25-minute drive from Inverness to Lochend, the top of Loch Ness).

2. Wander around Glasgow

Glasgow is a busy and bustling city, home to a youthful population (there is a university here) and a picturesque downtown. With plenty of parks, historical monuments, and museums, there is plenty to do here if you’re on a budget. It’s also a vegan and vegetarian hotspot too! Don’t miss the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, relaxing in Glasgow Green, seeing the cathedral, and day-tripping to the nearby Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park.

3. See the cathedrals

The cathedrals in Scotland are marvelous with their unique Gothic architecture and imposing heights. A few of the top cathedrals to visit are Dunfermline Abbey and Palace in Fife, St. Magnus Cathedral in the Orkney Islands, St Giles in Edinburgh, and Melrose Abbey in the Borders. Also, don’t miss the Glasgow Cathedral, which was built in 1136 and is the oldest building in Glasgow. Admission is free though donations are encouraged.

4. Puzzle over Rosslyn Chapel

This historic chapel near Edinburgh is ripe with intricate artwork and symbolism that has spawned many conspiracy theories (not to mention books). (Like why is there corn on the wall if corn wasn’t discovered until centuries later?). it was featured heavily in The Da Vinci Code and is located just an hour outside Edinburgh. Admission costs 9.5 GBP.

5. Play golf

The Scottish invented golf in the 15th century. If you’re not lucky enough to play a round at St. Andrews (the most famous course in the country) there are plenty of other immaculate and challenging courses to keep any golf player happy. Try to play during the low season (between November and March) if you want the lowest prices (St. Andrews, for example, costs 220 GBP to play in high season, versus 98 GBP in low season). Castle Stuart (Inverness), Royal Dornoch (Dornoch) , and Muirfield (Gullane) are some other great courses worth playing.

6. See the Cuillin

This dramatic mountain range dominates the Isle of Skye. There are two main ridges (the red and the black), which can be visited as a day trip or a longer two-day hike. Much of the mountain range, which stretches 14 kilometers (8.6 miles), can be hiked, though some peaks require more technical climbing skills. There are campgrounds and a hostel nearby in Glenbrittle as well. Some of the most popular trails are Rubh’ an Dùnain (3-5 hours, easy), Coire Lagan (2 hours, moderate), and Sgùrr Alasdair (6-8 hours, hard).

7. Visit Ruins of Melrose Abbey

Robert I (also known as Robert the Bruce) was the King of Scotland from 1306 until his death in 1329. Legend has it that his heart is buried in the ruins of Melrose Abbey. The abbey, founded in the 12th century and located in Melrose, was repeatedly destroyed by the English in the 14th century. You can still see marks on the surviving walls from cannonballs during the English Civil War. The abbey ruins (which is only a ruin of its former self, composed of several standing walls and arches) are decorated with intricate artwork carved into the remaining stone walls. Admission is 6 GBP.

8. Explore Dundee

Dundee is a lively student city along the coast with a lot of interesting museums. It’s a UNESCO City of Design and is the sunniest spot in the country too. Don’t miss a visit to Discovery Point to learn about the famous Antarctic expedition that launched from here in 1902 on the RSS Discovery (which you can board at the visitor center). Also, be sure to take in the great street art, the Vaults (a series of underground tunnels that date back to the 1750s), and The McManus Art Gallery as well.

9. Visit the Mystical Smoo Cave

The sleepy town of Durness, located 193 kilometers (120 miles) north of Inverness, is the access point for Smoo Cave , a coastline cave complex that can be explored independently or on a tour. Evidence from charcoal samples shows that it may have been inhabited over 4,000 years ago. The cave is free to enter but guided tours, which take you deeper into the cave, are 10 GBP. You get to see a lot more on the tour than you would if you just visit independently. Tours last around 20 minutes.

10. Head to the Isle of Arran

Located 2.5 hours west of Glasgow, this isle is a popular tourist destination for its charming scenery of jagged hills and rugged coasts, walking trails, and historic villages. Visit Brodick Castle, go for a hike, keep a lookout for seals and golden eagles, and enjoy the remote scenery. Don’t miss the Machrie Moor Stone Circles (which are sort of like Stonehenge) — they date back almost 5,000 years!

11. Explore the Cairngorms

Cairngorms National Park is the largest national park in the UK, spanning 4,528 square kilometers (1,748 square miles). Located two hours from Edinburgh by car, it makes for a great getaway for anyone looking to get out and see the highlands. The park is dotted with beautiful B&Bs in historic stone buildings and there are several campgrounds available for anyone traveling in a camper van or with a tent. Wild camping is also permitted, providing you do so responsibly. The park offers lots of hiking trails too. Don’t miss Ryvoan Pass (easy), Dalraddy to Ruthven (moderate), and Ben Macdui (difficult). If you visit in the winter, you can also go skiing on Cairn Gorm Mountain. If you’re lucky, you may spot some of the reindeer that call the park home (it’s the only herd in the British Isles). Admission to the park is free.

12. Attend the Edinburgh Fringe Festival

The Edinburgh Festival Fringe is the world’s largest arts festival. It usually lasts three weeks and takes over the entire city of Edinburgh. There are tens of thousands of performances including plays, musicals, live music, puppet shows, and much more! There are literally thousands of different shows held and hundreds of venues around the city. It’s a massive festival and brings in upwards of 3 million visitors. It’s a zany, inspiring, and entertaining festival and one that shouldn’t be missed. Just make sure you book your tickets and accommodation in advance as things fill up fast.

13. Tour the Isle of Skye

This popular island off the northwestern tip of the country is a scenic place to take a road trip. The island offers sweeping views over the rugged coastline, hiking trails, castles, waterfalls, and quaint villages and B&Bs. While most people just visit for a day, I suggest spending a few days driving around and getting off the beaten path. You can visit by bus if you don’t have a car, however, having your own vehicle will give you much more freedom. Don’t miss Dunvegan Castle, the Old Man of Storr rock formation, and brother’s point.

  For more information on cities in Scotland, check out these guides:

• Edinburgh Travel Guide
• Glasgow Travel Guide

Scotland Travel Costs

Accommodation – Most 6-8-bed dorms in Scotland cost 18-22 GBP per night, though prices rise a few pounds in the summer and drop a few in the winter (you can find hostels for as little as 12 GBP in the off-season). Free Wi-Fi and lockers are standard, and most hostels also have self-catering facilities. Private rooms in a hostel cost around 40-65 GBP per night.

Budget hotels cost around 55-75 GBP per night with standard amenities like free Wi-Fi, TV, and coffee/tea makers. Some include free breakfast.

Airbnb is widely available in Scotland and is especially useful in the smaller towns and villages where there are fewer traditional hotels and hostels. A private room generally costs 25-30 GBP per night while entire homes/apartments start at 55 GBP per night, though most options are 70 GBP and above.

If you want to camp, expect to pay around 17 GBP per night for a basic plot (a small flat space for a tent without electricity). Most campgrounds close for the winter so availability is limited come late October/early November. If you’re in a car or campervan, you can use the app “park4night” to find paid overnight parking, free overnight parking, and campgrounds.

Food – Scottish food is hearty, heavy, and filling. Seafood is abundant, and popular traditional dishes include blood pudding, minced beef, fish and chips, smoked herring, neeps and tatties (turnips and potatoes), and of course haggis (a dish composed of minced sheep’s organs and spices inside a sheep’s stomach casing). Porridge is a common breakfast choice, though a larger breakfast of sausage, eggs, beans, and bread is not uncommon either. Sticky toffee pudding is a favorite dessert, and of course, you can’t visit Scotland without sampling some scotch.

Expect to pay around 10-12 GBP for a basic meal (like a Scottish breakfast). For pub food like a burger or fish and chips, prices are usually between 12-20 GBP for a meal. For a full three-course meal at a mid-range restaurant, prices begin around 27 GBP.

A pint of beer is around 4 GBP while a glass of wine is around 5.50 GBP. A latte or cappuccino is around 2.70 GBP.

If you’re looking for fast food (think McDonald’s), expect a combo meal to cost around 6 GBP. A classic fish and chips from a no-frills takeaway spot is around 6 GBP, while Chinese takeaway is around 8-10 GBP. Street food (like from a food truck) costs around 6-8 GBP. Eat near the universities for the cheapest food options.

A week’s worth of groceries costs around 40-60 GBP. This covers basic staples like pasta, rice, seasonal produce, and some meat. The cheapest supermarkets to look out for are Aldi, Lidl, Asda, and Tesco.

Backpacking Scotland Suggested Budgets

On a backpacker budget, you can visit Scotland for around 55 GBP per day. On this budget, you’re staying in a dorm room or camping, cooking all of your meals, using local transportation, sticking to mostly free activities (like hiking, museums, or free walking tours), and limiting your drinking.

On a mid-range budget of about 105 GBP, you can stay in a private Airbnb room, eat out at cheap local restaurants for a few meals, enjoy a few drinks, take the occasional taxi to get around, and do more paid activities like visiting castles or doing a whisky tasting.

On a “luxury” budget of 210 GBP or more per day, you can stay in a hotel, eat out for every meal, drink what you want, take the train between cities or rent a car, and visit as many museums and attractions as you’d like. This is just the ground floor for luxury though — you can easily spend more if you want to splash out!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in GBP.

Scotland Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

While Scotland is expensive, there are lots of ways to lower your costs. Here are some tips to help you save money in Scotland:

• Get the Edinburgh City Pass – If you’re planning to explore Edinburgh, get the City Pass. For 45 GBP, you get access to 22 attractions as well as free transportation to and from the airport. There is also a two-day pass for 55 GBP and a three-day pass for 65 GBP.
• Eat in a pub – The best food is often in the pubs at a fraction of the price compared to a proper restaurant. Also, pubs generally give you a true taste of Scottish culture. Scotland is pub-land – they’re everywhere.
• Eat during lunch – Many cafes, bakeries, and chains offer lunch deals for as little as 3-5 GBP.
• Visit the free museums – The public museums in Scotland are free so take advantage! Free museums include The National Museum of Scotland, Scottish National Gallery, Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art.
• Use buses – If you need to go anywhere, buses are by far the cheapest way to reach the widest range of places on a regular schedule. You can even find tickets for just 1 GBP from Megabus if you book far enough in advance.
• Avoid eating and shopping in the city centers – Both Glasgow and Edinburgh get significantly more expensive the closer you get to the city center. There are plenty of good restaurants and quirky shops outside of the center, so go for those. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed.
• Use apps to get food deals – On the app Too Good to Go, participating eateries sell severely discounted meals/groceries/baked goods at the end of the day. You just sign up, see what is being offered near you, and pick up your cheap food at the end of the day. It has good coverage all across Scotland, particularly in Edinburgh. For discounts on takeout try the app Secret Takeaways which supports local restaurants in Edinburgh and Glasgow by cutting out the delivery app middleman (and their high fees).
• Stay with a local – Couchsurfing is the best way to save on accommodation in Scotland. You’ll not only save some money but get access to a knowledgeable local who can help point you to some of the country’s hidden gems. It may not be fancy, but you’ll get a unique experience and learn far more about the destination than if you stayed in a hotel!
• Take a free walking tour – If you want to understand more about the history, architecture, and people of Scotland then be sure to take a free walking tour. They usually last a couple of hours and are a great introduction to the city. New Europe has a great free tour in Edinburgh and Visit Scotland offers one in Glasgow.
• Cook your own meals – Eating out in the UK isn’t cheap. Save yourself some money and cook a few meals for yourself. It may not be as fancy as eating out, but your wallet will thank you!
• Rent a campervan – If you’re planning to get out of the city, rent a camper van. You can get them for as little as 30 GBP per day. They come with basic self-catering facilities so you can cook your food and have somewhere cheap to stay. There are lots of free places to park around the country. Just use the app park4night to find them.
• Use BlaBlaCar – BlaBlaCar is a ridesharing app you can use to travel in between cities. It’s faster than the bus and usually just as cheap. You have to find a ride, which can sometimes be hit or miss, but the profiles are verified and reviewed so it’s quite safe. Plus, it’s a great way to connect with other locals/travelers.
• Use discount websites – Groupon, Wowcher and Living Social have good deals on accommodation, attractions, and dining out.
• Bring a water bottle – The tap water here is safe to drink so bring a reusable water bottle to save money and reduce your plastic use. LifeStraw is my go-to brand as their bottles have built-in filters to ensure your water is always clean and safe.

Where to Stay in Scotland

Accommodation in Scotland isn’t cheap, but there are nevertheless lots of great hostels to stay at to help you meet people and save money. Here are my favorite hostels in Scotland:

• Castle Rock (Edinburgh)
• Edinburgh Backpackers (Edinburgh)
• Kick Ass Grassmarket (Edinburgh)
• Glasgow Youth Hostel (Glasgow)
• Euro Hostel Glasgow (Glasgow)
• Broadford backpackers (Isle of Skye)
• Stirling Youth Hostel (Stirling)

How to Get Around Scotland

Public Transportation – Public buses and trams cost around 1.50-2 GBP for one-way ride. For a single-day pass, expect prices to start at 4 GBP per person. In Glasgow, a 7-day public transportation pass costs 17 GBP.

Only Glasgow has a subway system and the tickets for the bus and metro are not interchangeable as they are operated by two different companies (though prices between the two are comparable).

Airport shuttles cost around 6-8 GBP each way.

Flying – Flying around Scotland is both inconvenient and expensive. There are very few direct flights, making it slower to fly than to take the bus. I would avoid flying and just take the bus or train.

Bus – Buses are a popular and affordable way to get around the country as they link most destinations in the country. Scottish Citylink, Stagecoach, Megabus, and National Express are the four main companies that operate here. Tickets can be found for as little as 1 GBP via Megabus, though they’re usually around 10-25 GBP.

Edinburgh to Glasgow, for example, is a one-hour bus ride that costs 8 GBP while the three-hour journey from Glasgow to Inverness costs around 20-30 GBP. The sooner you book your ticket, the lower the price, so always try to book in advance. The coaches here are modern and comfortable with bathrooms and Wi-Fi as well.

Train – Trains connect all the major cities in Scotland (as well as the towns and villages they pass through). When purchased in advance (12 weeks out is the sweet spot), tickets are only a little more expensive than the bus. For example, Inverness to Glasgow takes about as long as the bus and is only 30 GBP while Edinburgh-Glasgow is 30 minutes faster than the bus for just 1-2 GBP more. Just be sure to book early to get the best prices. Last-minute tickets can be expensive!

Car rental – Scotland is a great road trip destination. You can get cars for 20 GBP per day and campers for 30 GBP per day. Just remember that traffic flows on the left. Most vehicles are manual transmissions as well. Renters need to be at least 21 years of age.

Rideshare – Ridesharing apps like Uber are a reliable but expensive way to get around in cities like Glasgow and Edinburgh. Skip them if you can.

For longer distances, use BlaBlaCar. It’s a ridesharing app that pairs you with drivers who are traveling to other cities. They have profiles and reviews (similar to Airbnb) so it’s quite safe. It’s usually not as cheap as the bus, but it’s faster and more comfortable.

When to Go to Scotland

Summer is the most popular time to visit Scotland. In July and August, there’s warm weather and minimal rain, with temperatures reaching highs of around 20°C (68°F). This is also the busiest time of the year, so expect crowds in the cities and lots of people out enjoying the national parks. The Edinburgh Fringe Festival takes place in August, which is a huge multi-week festival. Be sure to book your accommodation in advance if you’re visiting during this time.

September is a rather wet month, though in October there’s incredible fall foliage. Overall, October is a great time to visit — especially if you plan on renting a car or camper and heading into the Cairngorms (Scotland’s biggest national park). Seasonal businesses and accommodations start to close in mid-October so be sure to keep that in mind when planning. Expect October temperatures to hover around 12°C (55°F) during the day.

The spring is a great time to visit, with April and May offering minimal rain and no crowds. There’s still snow and cool temperatures in the highlands, but the cities are lively without being crowded.

Winters in Scotland are cold and dark. December is relatively dry, with temperatures dipping below 0°C (32°F). It’s nevertheless a popular time to visit, with many tourists coming to Edinburgh for the huge Hogmanay New Year’s Eve celebration (one of the biggest New Year’s festivals in the world). Book your accommodation well in advance if you plan to attend.

By February, snow is common so keep that in mind if you plan on renting a vehicle. Unless you’re coming to engage in winter sports, I’d avoid a winter visit unless you don’t mind the grim and grey atmosphere of the country.

How to Stay Safe in Scotland

Scotland is a safe country, even for solo travelers, and even for solo female travelers. Like in all cities, stay vigilant when you’re in crowded tourist areas or on public transportation as that is when pickpockets usually strike. If you keep your valuable secure, however, you shouldn’t have any issues.

Additionally, solo female travelers don’t need to worry in Scotland, however, women should take the standard precautions when traveling alone at night (don’t travel alone intoxicated, keep an eye on your drink, etc.).

Keep in mind that traffic flows on the left here. Most vehicles are manual transmissions and have the gear shift on the left (which is opposite to most other countries). Driving might take some getting used to so drive carefully — especially in cities and when going through roundabouts.

If you are hiking, make sure you have the appropriate equipment and notify your accommodation of your plans just in case as the weather can change quickly in the highlands.

While scams here are rare, you can read about common travel scams to avoid here if you’re concerned.

If you experience an emergency, dial 999 for assistance.

Always trust your gut instinct. Avoid isolated areas at night and be aware of your surroundings at all times. Make copies of your personal documents, including your passport and ID.

If you don’t do it at home, don’t do it in Scotland!

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Scotland Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!
• BlaBlaCar – BlaBlaCar is a ridesharing website that lets you share rides with vetted local drivers by pitching in for gas. You simply request a seat, they approve, and off you go! It’s a cheaper and more interesting way to travel than by bus or train!

Edinburgh Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on backpacking/traveling Scotland and continue planning your trip:

The 6 Best Hotels in Edinburgh

The Best Walking Tours in Edinburgh

Where to Stay in Edinburgh: The Best Neighborhoods for Your Visit

The Best Ghost Tours in Edinburgh

A Complete Visitor’s Guide to Rosslyn Chapel

Searching for the Perfect Dram on Islay

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• Where To Stay
• Transportation
• Booking Resources
• Related Blogs

My Love Affair with Scotland

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The question I get more often than any other is, “So what’s your favorite place?”

Truth? I understand why people ask me this question, but I hate this question. Most other travel bloggers hate it, too. It’s not just that we get asked it constantly, it’s that it’s impossible to boil down years of travel and hundreds of destinations into just one place and to cap it at one is a disservice to your travels and life.

But if you tell people that, they get disappointed. They just want to hear a place.

So I’ve come up with a scripted answer that is both truthful and satisfying for the listener: “Well, my favorite countries are Croatia, Italy, South Africa, Japan, and Thailand. And one place that is very special to me is the island of Koh Lanta in Thailand.”

But that answer is incomplete. It leaves out how much I love the food of Emilia-Romagna, Italy. It overlooks the joy of summer in Finland, the quiet paradise of Little Corn Island in Nicaragua, the outstanding natural beauty of Montenegro, the feeling when you watch a sunset from Boracay in the Philippines. It even omits mentions of my favorite city in the world for 16 years running: Paris.

Worst of all, it overlooks Scotland.

Oh, I love Scotland. I love it FIERCELY. It is a destination that brings me endless joy, no matter where I’m going. And I really need to talk about it more for that reason.

I love the cities. Edinburgh looks like a fairy tale and it’s one of my favorite cities on the planet, and Glasgow is a lot of fun, too.

I love the natural beauty. The mountains, the lakes, even the beaches.

I love the people. Scots are so warm and friendly and welcoming. And the accents are out of this world!

I love the castles. They’re everywhere and they vary so much! My favorite ruined castle to photograph is Dunnottar Castle on the East Coast, not too far north from St. Andrews.

I love the food. Haggis is great. Fried Mars bars are…an indulgence. But go to a nice pub that uses local ingredients and you’ll delight in a real Scottish meal. The single best thing I ate in Scotland was an Arbroath smokie (smoked fish) that came right off the smoker. I ate it like an ice cream cone.

There’s only one thing that I don’t love — the whisky. Sorry, guys. I’ve tried whisky (as the Scots spell it) dozens of times, sometimes at outstanding distilleries in the Scottish countryside. And it always tastes like feet to me. I’m a gin girl , I’m afraid.

(My friend Peter even brought a bottle of whisky to Leipzig last week for the Video Summit and had me take a sip. Nope, still tasted like feet.)

The First Trip: An Introduction to Edinburgh

I first set foot in Scotland in September 2011 — a weekend in Edinburgh to visit my friends Kash and Anthony  and check out  Haggis Hostels , which had just opened back then (and is still going strong — congrats, guys!).

Turns out this was somewhat of an atypical visit. Temperatures were around 30 degrees celsius — 86 fahrenheit — an almost unheard of heat wave. Everyone was lying out in the sunshine! It was crazy — on Anthony’s advice I had packed warm clothing, including tall leather boots, and I went to H&M and Zara to buy sunglasses, only to find out that they sold none!

But I fell for Edinburgh SO hard. The beauty, the friendliness, the walkability, the castle perched on a hill. This was my place.

There were a few late nights at clubs. There were haggis quesadillas (at a place that has sadly closed since). There was a crazy dancing man on the Royal Mile. But above all, this visit lit the spark for everything that came after. I look back at this weekend as a truly happy time in my life.

Quintessential Scotland Experience: Trying haggis for the first time and realizing that it’s delicious as long as you don’t think about what you’re eating!

The Second Trip: Shetland, Up Helly Aa, and the East Coast

The second trip to Scotland was one of the greatest things I have ever done: Up Helly Aa. This Viking fire festival takes place in the remote Shetland Islands, adrift between Scotland and Norway.

I did the Haggis Adventures Up Helly Aa tour  — it was so good, three of my readers booked the same tour the following year! (Worth noting: the tour they run today includes an extra day in Shetland. Excellent!)

After traveling up the coast, we took an overnight ferry to the islands and explored the ruins and the landscape. Shetland is phenomenally beautiful and even has a double beach!

The next day, the Up Helly Aa celebrations began with a parade and Vikings yelling, “Yarrr!” before breaking into the Broadway standard “Enjoy Yourself, It’s Later Than You Think.” We posed for photos with the Vikings and I was even filmed for BBC Scotland!

That night began the burning. Men and boys dressed up in fancy Viking costumes were paraded down the street in a beautifully lacquered Viking boat made for the occasion. Following them were lines and lines of Shetland dressed in various costumes — drag! Marvel villains! Chicken suits! — and holding flaming torches.

The boat was pushed to a field, the Vikings got out…and then EVERYONE THREW THEIR TORCHES INTO THE BOAT AND LIT IT ON FIRE. That beautiful boat had served its purpose.

Next, everyone moved to parties and danced all night long to traditional Shetland music in between performances from the various squads of Shetlanders. They had costumed routines to “Moves Like Jagger” and “Party Rock Anthem.” (I still think of Shetland whenever I hear those songs.)

Our guides taught us all the dances and soon we were whirling around with the kilted locals. And the best part of Up Helly Aa? It goes ALL NIGHT LONG. Seriously. We danced until 8:06 AM and just skipped sleeping that night, falling into bed at around 9:00 PM on the ferry home.

It’s been more than four years and I still consider Up Helly Aa one of the best things I have ever done on my travels. You can read all my posts about it here. Bonus: I’ve stayed close with many of my Up Helly Aa friends and we’ve had reunions in London, New York, Sydney, and even Hvar, Croatia!

Quintessential Scotland Experience: Dancing to traditional music until delirious at 8:06 AM. I will never forget it.

The Third Trip: A Luxurious Return to Edinburgh

I was delighted to return to Edinburgh at the invitation of the Sheraton Grand Hotel and Spa to check out their new offerings. While this isn’t the kind of trip that I’d do today, at the time I had a wonderful overnight with several of my blogger friends.

And finally I got to experience typical Scottish weather — lots of gray rain!

Quintessential Scotland Experience: Swimming in the outdoor spa at the Sheraton as fierce rain pelted down.

The Fourth Trip: Yet Another Edinburgh Trip

Can you tell how in love with Edinburgh I am yet? With another opportunity to return for a blogger meet up, another opportunity to hang out in Edinburgh with my friends, of course I took it!

This time I got to overturn a new stone: exploring the Water of Leith, a path winding through quiet parts of Edinburgh. Kash and I explored it through the rain, getting soaked before the sun came back out once again — it’s the Scottish way!

Also memorable from this trip is the meetup. It was mayhem, in a nutshell, and I still laugh over the resulting pictures.

Quintessential Scotland Experience: Taking a long, rainy walk along the Water of Leith and warming up with a cup of tea at a cafe afterward.

The Fifth Trip: Glasgow 

Because I can’t keep going back to Edinburgh every time, on my next trip I went to spend a few days in Scotland’s largest city: Glasgow.

One of my favorite ways to travel is to go to a new city for a few days and pretend I live there. I do my thing: I take long walks, I go to cafes, I people-watch. Whether it’s Helsinki or Bogotá, I like to carve a Kate-sized shape in the city. And I think that was the best way to explore Glasgow.

Glasgow may not have the overwhelming beauty of Edinburgh, but you know what it has? Beauty all its own. Lots of culture. Cool small shops and businesses. Incredibly friendly people. And it has several friends of mine, including Emma , who is an authority on all things Scotland travel.

Quintessential Scotland Experience: finally getting to love Irn Bru, the bubblegum-esque bright orange soft drink, and trying my first-ever deep fried Mars bar.

The Sixth Trip: Edinburgh’s Hogmanay and the Highlands

Scotland is world-famous for its New Year’s celebrations: Hogmanay! I was invited to cover the festival for New Year’s Eve 2012, and I was happy to take part in the traditions.

My favorite part was the torchlight procession the night before New Year’s, joining Scots and visitors from all over in marching up the hill, flaming torches in hand. (Yet another moment in Scotland where I thought, “This could never happen in America.”)

New Year’s itself was a giant party with a concert and much revelry. Personally, I preferred the calm torchlight procession to the party night itself — it gets WILD! Also, I saw a girl walking home in bare feet. In Scotland. IN WINTER.

After the trip, our group went on a Haggis Adventures tour of the Highlands , and this is where I felt a connection to Scotland like never before. My Scottish roots on my mother’s side come from Inverness and the Isle of Skye.

What really affected me was hearing about all the tragedies of the Highlands and how difficult life was here. So many wars, deaths, betrayals, massacres. Thinking of my long-lost relatives and how they could have been victims was deeply moving.

The Isle of Skye was the true highlight of the Highlands for me, and I’d love to go back and explore it more.

Quintessential Scotland Experience: Learning that there’s no colder winter than a Scottish winter. It’s the dampness that gets you. Even after a scaldingly hot shower, the chill remained within me.

The Seventh Trip: Edinburgh’s Fringe Festival with Mom

Traveling with my mom, we went to Edinburgh as part of our genealogy trip . The timing was perfect: August was the time of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival!

This festival features nonstop performances, both paid and free, in the street and in theaters. The Royal Mile in particular is chock full of these performances. I ended up seeing several terrific shows and one truly bad show, roughly half of them paid and half of them free.

The most memorable show, Sing For Your Life! , was a puppet show musical using taxidermied animals for puppets. It was weird and wonderful and hilarious.

During this trip, we stayed with my mom’s friend Sandra, and the two of them often went off while I did my own thing, including hosting my first Edinburgh meetup. I love having alone time in Edinburgh — it gives me time to revisit my favorite places, like The World’s End for a bowl of cullin skink (smokey fish chowder) and a dark beer.

Quintessential Scotland Experience: Waiting in line for a taxi next to a thickly brogued, kilt-wearing Edinburgh tour guide as he told me about guiding: “The German tourists, they look angry. They look like a constipated Woody Harrelson. As the tour continues, you think they’re not enjoying it. Then at the end, they come up, shake your hand and say, “That tour was the greatest experience of my life. I will name my grandchildren after you.”

The Eighth Trip: Inverness and Loch Ness

Finally, last month I returned to Scotland for the Social Travel Summit and hit up a new destination: Inverness, the gateway to the Highlands.

Unfortunately, between a late arrival, being busy with the conference, and being worried over lost luggage, I didn’t get to enjoy the region as much as I could have — but I still had a great time. And just like my first trip, we had some very un-Scotland-like weather: clear blue skies!

I did get to experience a lovely cruise on Loch Ness past Urqhardt Castle, a dressed up soirée at nearby Achnagairn Castle , and the local Inverness nightlife: and by that, I mean some crazy nights at Hootenanny , capped off by some locals asking me to dance.

Quintessential Scotland Experience: Becoming fast friends with the taxi driver who took me to the airport to pick up my luggage. And then I find out he has the same last name as my relatives from Inverness! We posed for a selfie that I sent my mom. (Her response: “He doesn’t look like a [name] but he looks very nice.” LOL!)

Image: iknow-uk

What’s Next? My Scotland Travel Goals

I know a lot of Scotland travel experts will look at this list and say, “Psssh, you didn’t even go to the best spots!” Oh, believe me, I know that! There’s so much more to see.

The following destinations are particularly high on my list:

St. Kilda. This remote archipelago on the far northwest of the Outer Hebrides has some of the most spectacular landscapes in Scotland.

Lewis and Harris. People say that the further north you go in Scotland, the more beautiful it gets. These islands in the Outer Hebrides are home to long, white-sand beaches with crystal-clear water. That picture above is Harris! How crazy is that?!

Loch Lomond. This lake is great for adventure activities and one of the most popular destinations in the country, yet I’ve always missed it.

Orkney. Whenever I mention that I’ve been to Shetland but not Orkney, Scotland lovers lose their minds. Ornkey is home to some incredible archaeological wonders.

Shetland Folk Festival.  I’ve got Shetland fever! If the traditional music I heard at Up Helly Aa was any indication, this festival will be a rollicking good time.

Choose Scotland

I feel like Scotland is one of the best all-around destinations in the world. Here’s what makes it great:

It’s perfect for solo female travelers. Scotland is one of my top choices for solo female travelers because of the ease of travel, the variety of things to do, the friendly people, the relative safety, the pub culture (great for dining alone), and the lack of language barrier for English speakers, on top of being an overall wonderful destination.

There’s enough variety to customize your trip.  Do you want to be in the throes of a festival or have an isolated getaway? Do you want to have an active hiking, biking, and canoeing trip or would you rather visit historical sites? Do you want to drive or take the train? Go solo or with a group? Do you want a foodie adventure or do you have a limited palate? There are endless options.

It’s much cheaper now. The fallout of the pound has caused lots of financial damage to my friends and me (as some of my clients pay me in GBP), which is no laughing matter. But this is good news for tourists to the UK, who now get more for their money than ever before.

The only place where Scotland falls short is the weather. One of my Scottish friends likes to say, “Scotland would be the best country in the world if it had better weather.” Nope, you’re not going to lie around in a bikini here, but if you make peace with that, you’re going to have a great time. I guarantee it.

Have you been to Scotland? What do you love about it?

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From 5 minute scrolls to immersive evening reads, you can find a range of stories that will fuel your love for Scotland. Our Scotland travel blog features locations where you can find mouth-watering seafood, secluded beaches, and bustling city breaks, we’ve got all the information you need.

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Caerlaverock Castle near Dumfries

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May 20, 2020 by Aelyth Savage

Picture this: ostel bay’s bright unfolding, may 6, 2020 by aelyth savage, the caterthuns: hillforts of the iron-age picts, april 22, 2020 by aelyth savage, picture this: a long, bright view, april 8, 2020 by aelyth savage, state of the savage: spring 2020.

About the Traveling Savage

I’m an American driven to explore every corner of Scotland, from the highlands and islands to Edinburgh, Glasgow, and the lowlands with my trusty camera, pen, and a whisky-fueled fire in my belly. Have a look around, read my story, and learn how I help people plan their trips to Scotland.

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The Ultimate Scotland Road Trip Itinerary: 9 Days in Isle of Skye, Edinburgh, Loch Ness & More.

Scotland has long lingered on my travel bucket list. Its grassy carpet-like fields, uncounted cascading waterfalls, stirring mountains, and craggy coastlines are pure fantasy for the landscape lover. Or really for anyone who yearns for long scenic drives, surrounded by raw nature at its finest.

Scotland’s most worthwhile spectacles tend to be concealed down winding, narrow roads, unruffled by the trivial hustle and bustle of civilisation.

The best way to experience the unforgiving land known by ancient Romans as  Caledonia  is by jumping behind the wheel for a wee road trip.

My circular 9-day Scotland road trip itinerary involves  hiring a car in the capital, Edinburgh , and driving north to Inverness, then delving deep into rugged highlands before climaxing with the fanciful Isle of Skye. Of course, we’ll stop along the way to glimpse cute highland coos and sip authentic Scotch whisky.  

Throw a few  bagpipe anthems  to your road trip playlist, grab yer kilt, crank up  Scotland The Brave , and let’s hit the road!

If you’re Scottish, I apologise in advance if I offend with my sense of humour. I really do love your country!

Phew! That got them gingers off my tail.

Essential Scotland Road Trip Tips

1. pack for cold weather and never believe the weather forecast.

Scotland’s lush green landscapes have one little catch – rain. Lots of rain. The driest and warmest time to visit is during the summer months of July and August. But even then, don’t take the weather forecast too seriously as it seems to change by the hour!

My Scotland road trip was in early September, which seemed to be the sweet spot. Popular stops weren’t too crowded and we only had one day of heavy, non-stop rain towards the end of our trip.

Weather in the highlands ranged from 10°C to 17°C (50°F to 63°F) in September, so remember to pack a warm jacket, scarf, beanie, and umbrella.

2. Stay in local B&Bs and book in advance

I stayed in small B&Bs in the highlands for the cosy, home-away-from-home feeling. All of my hosts were extremely welcoming and treated me to delicious traditional Scottish breakfasts each morning.

Most B&Bs tend to fill up fast, so I suggest booking a few weeks in advance - a couple of months would be better. Alternatively, look for staycation hotels for short trips, as you can find bargains when travelling in shoulder season.

3. Use caution with Google Maps

This app is a life-saver, an essential tool on any road trip. However, some minor “roads” in Scotland that Google Maps sends you down really aren’t roads. They’d barely rate as footpaths in other countries, and you may not always be able to drive on them. Other times they could be a private farm road. So, take directions with a large grain of salt and study your route ahead of time. And remember to download your offline maps while on Wi-Fi.

Day 1 – Edinburgh

Edinburgh is jam-packed full of Scottish history and culture, from the 12 th century Edinburgh Castle, to elegant streets lined with colourful Georgian townhouses, to bagpipes playing traditional melodies in the background.

Although this road trip is all about Scotland’s natural beauty, the first day is dedicated to Edinburgh getting a feel for the all things Scottish. My favourite things to do in Edinburgh include:

Soak up Scottish history at Edinburgh Castle

The history of Edinburgh Castle dates back to the 12 th century when it was a royal residence. From the 14 th century, it became heavily involved in the Wars of Scottish Independence, earning its reputation as the most besieged place in Great Britain and one of the most attacked structures in the world.

The castle now offers spectacular views over Edinburgh for visitors from all over the world. Be sure to check out St Margaret’s Chapel , the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh; the Royal Palace , where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to King James VI and where the Crown Jewels and Stone of Scone now reside; the National War Museum ; and, of course, the whiskey shop .

I recommend buying skip-the-line tickets online and visiting early in the morning to avoid crowds. Free guided tours run every 15 minutes (starting under a red clock near Mill’s Mount Battery ), so I suggest starting with a tour then returning to your favourite spots. Our guide summarised the castle’s turbulent history and shared handy tips, from the least slippery parts of the medieval pavement to the best place to watch the one o’clock gun fire at, you guessed it, one o’clock.

Hours: 9:30am – 6pm, daily (summer hours)

Visit length: 1.5 - 2 hours.

Marvel at the beauty of St Giles’ Cathedral

St Giles’ Cathedral started its life as a catholic cathedral in the 12 th century. After being involved in the Scottish Reformation and independence from Catholicism, it came to be known as the Mother Church of World Presbyterianism. St Giles is both fascinating and gorgeous, with grand stained-glass windows and several military and religious monuments.

Entry is free but photography permits are £2 and must be purchased before taking photos inside the cathedral, even on your smartphone.

Hours: 9am – 7pm Monday to Friday, 9am – 5pm Saturday, 1pm – 5pm Sunday (summer hours)

Visit length: 30 minutes

Introduce yourself to Scotch whisky at Whiski Rooms

Whiski Rooms is my favourite place to taste single malt whisky in Edinburgh. While you can pre-book an official Whiskey tasting at a set time, you can also simply walk up to the bar at any time and order a whisky flight to taste.

Each flight comes with 4 small glasses of whiskey selected from a menu, from staff favourites to aged classics. I played it safe with the Introduction to Whisky flight and sampled 4 varieties from different regions around Scotland. Hold on to your whiskey menus as they include instructions on how to taste whisky like a pro.

Hours: 10am to 1am, daily

Visit length: 1 hour

Walk in the footsteps of Mary Queen of Scots at Holyrood Palace

The Palace of Holyroodhouse , or Holyrood Palace, is located at the opposite end of The Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle. Tickets include an interactive audio guide which leads you on a journey through the palace, exploring its history from construction in 1528 to modern use by Queen Elizabeth II and the royal family.

Highlights include Mary Queen of Scots’ bedchamber and stories from her life in the palace; the ruins of Holyrood Abbey; and a walk through the palace gardens where the Queen hosts a garden party every July.

Hours: 9:30am – 6pm (summer hours)

Visit length: 1.5 hours

Watch the sunset from Arthur’s Seat

If you’re feeling fit, climb the dormant volcano, Arthur’s Seat , to watch the sun set over the city. Climbing to the top takes about an hour, although there are lower, easier-to-reach lookout points too. Wear suitable shoes as some parts of the climb are quite slippery and bring lots of water.

Visit length: 2 - 2.5 hours

Have a picnic at Calton Hill

For a less exerting lookout point, visit Calton Hill which just has 2-3 minutes’ worth of stairs to climb.  Calton Hill is home to several significant Neoclassical monuments, including the National Monument of Scotland and the Nelson Monument . There’s also a large grassed area, which is the perfect place to relax with a book or have a little picnic and admire the views.

Where to Stay in Edinburgh

I spent 2 nights in sophisticated style at the Radisson Collection Hotel, Royal Mile Edinburgh , conveniently located within walking distance of all attractions listed above.  

I stayed in a spacious Designer Suite with an elegant watercolour theme continued throughout the room from the furniture to the wallpaper. Each Designer Suite is decorated with unique artwork, so you’ll feel like a celebrity with the tailor-made interior.

Celebrity treatment continues at breakfast, with a generous buffet of pastries, cereals, and fruit as well as a cooked-to-order hot breakfast. I ordered the vegetarian breakfast which came with vegan haggis (yum!), sausages and grilled vegetables.

If you’ve already collected your rental car, parking is available at sister hotel, Radisson Blu Edinburgh (5 minutes walk) for £12.50 per night. Otherwise, find a rental car on Rentalcars.com .

Day 2 – Edinburgh to Inverness

Driving time: 3.5 hours

The first actual road trip day involves driving from Edinburgh to Inverness. Inverness is the last major city on the trip so stock up on road trip snacks and anything else you might need, like car chargers and aux cables, as they’ll become increasingly harder to find.

I left Edinburgh at 10am, had lunch in Dunkeld at 12:30pm, and arrived in Inverness at 5:30pm.

See the UNESCO heritage listed Forth Bridge at Queensferry

Navigate to the Binks Carpark at South Queensferry Harbour, a 30-minute drive west from Edinburgh. Most carparks in Queensferry tend to be pretty busy, especially on weekends, so you may need to drive around for a few minutes or wait for someone to leave.

After parking, we walked along the foreshore to the pier , admired the red Forth Bridge , and stopped for coffee at a waterfront café.

Grab lunch by the river in Dunkeld

Next, set navigate to the Tay Terrace Carpark in Dunkeld, a 1-hour drive from Queensferry. Parking is free on Sundays, but otherwise paid so make sure you have a few coins.

We had lunch in the riverfront garden of the Atholl Arms , a tavern serving traditional pub food with a few vegetarian and vegan options.

After lunch, we walked along Atholl Street to explore the town, stopping at the Ell Shop to buy locally made souvenirs. Items for sale include mugs, ceramics, books, cashmere scarfs, and even pet accessories. We then visited the restored, 14 th century Dunkeld Cathedral , located on the riverbank, surrounded by beautiful parklands. Inside the small church is an even smaller museum with ruins of standing stones and informative posters on the history of the cathedral and town.

Visit length: 2 hours

See your first Scottish waterfall at the Falls of Bruar

The last stop is a 30-minute drive northwest from Dunkeld. Navigate to the House of Bruar which has a large carpark and a complex of shops selling clothing, homewares, and local produce like nuts, chocolate, jams, biscuits, cheeses, olives, and of course, whisky. There’s also a café and buffet restaurant. Have a wander around the somewhat overpriced shops, but the real treat is the nearby waterfall.

Around the back of the buildings is a quaint walking trail that leads to the Falls of Bruar and a small stone bridge. The waterfall viewing platforms are a 15-minute stroll north from the shops and carpark.

Check into your B&B in Inverness

The last leg of the day is a 90-minute drive north to Inverness to check into your B&B for the next 2 nights. I stayed in Riverview Guesthouse which I highly recommend for the modern yet cosy rooms, delicious breakfasts, and super friendly staff.

Bubbly owner, Eilidh, recommended the best restaurants in town for our dinner and kindly offered to make reservations for us. Tip: Zizzi have a few delicious Italian-themed vegan options.

Day 3 – Loch Ness

Driving time: 2 hours

Day 3 is spent exploring the region around Loch Ness, the largest water body in the UK by volume. Loch Ness is famous for its fabled elusive sea monster, but it’s also one of the most beautiful and serene places in Scotland.

I left Inverness at 9am, had lunch in Fort Augustus at 2pm, and arrived back at Inverness at 5.30pm.

Learn the legend behind the Loch Ness Monster at Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition

Drive 25-minutes southwest from Inverness to Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition to walk through a series of interactive videos about the history of Loch Ness and the search for the famous Loch Ness Monster, Nessie. Tickets are available at the door for £8.45 per adult.

According to the videos, there’s been over 1,000 sightings of a ‘monster’ in Loch Ness since 1868, sparking scientific studies into lifeforms inside the loch. The videos present the studies’ findings, including possible explanations for each ‘monster’ sighting, but ultimately leave it up to you to decide whether or not Nessie is hiding in the deep, dark waters.

The exhibition ends in a gift shop selling Nessie toys and souvenirs, books, and clothing. I couldn’t help but buy a somewhat-traditional Scottish hat.

Semi-true story: Apparently 40% of people in Scotland have a recessive gene for ginger hair. Mine spontaneously activated.

Visit length: 80 minutes

Explore the ruins of Urquhart Castle

The next stop, Urquhart Castle , is a 7-minute drive southeast from Loch Ness Centre and Exhibition. Tickets can be purchased at the door for £12 per adult. The visit starts with an 8-minute introductory video on the castle’s history, covering its construction, involvement in clan disputes and the Wars of Scottish Independence, and its abandonment and destruction in 1692.

After the video, wander through the castle ruins for some of the best views over Loch Ness and to see the interesting rock wall remnants of buildings like the guard house and stables.

Cruise along Loch Ness from Fort Augustus

Navigate to the Fort Augustus Pay & Display Carpark , a 30-minute drive southwest from Urquhart Castle towards the southern tip of Loch Ness. Once you’ve paid for parking, walk 5 minutes to Cruise Loch Ness for a 45-minute boat ride on the loch. I recommend catching the 1pm boat and arriving 15 minutes early to be one of the first in line for the best seats on the top deck. Tickets can be booked online in advance. During the cruise, humorous staff explain the habitats alongside Loch Ness and point out deer, goats, and waterfalls on the water’s edge. The lower deck bar sells snacks, beer, and whisky (of course!) to enjoy while taking in the views.

After the boat ride, grab some lunch at a nearby pub like the Richmond House Hotel then enjoy a quiet walk along the Fort Augustus Locks or pick up a souvenir at the Clansman Centre or the Millshop.

Visit length: 3 hours

Wander alongside the Falls of Foyers

Drive 26 minutes northeast to the free Falls of Foyers carpark , located across the road from the waterfalls. There are 2 viewing points, one for the upper falls and one for the lower falls. I suggest only going to the upper falls which is a 10-minute walk along a fairly easy, but narrow, path to see the dramatic, roaring waterfall. The path to the lower falls is much longer and steeper and leads to a shallow cascading waterfall.

Return to Inverness for dinner and drinks

Drive 35 minutes northeast back to Inverness for your last night at Riverview Guesthouse . I suggest wandering around the city or enjoying a cocktail at Contrast before dinner. We were lucky enough to have Eilidh make dinner reservations for us again. Tip: try The Alleycat for the only dedicated vegan restaurant in town.

Day 4 – Inverness to Ullapool 

Driving time: 3 hours

Day 4 is one of the most scenic driving days of this road trip. Expect a few spur-of-the-moment stops on the side of the road to admire scenery or grazing livestock that will undoubtedly catch your attention.

I left Inverness at 9:30am, had lunch in Achiltibuie at 1pm, and arrived in Ullapool at 5pm.

Walk along the pebbly Ardmair Beach

Navigate to Ardmair Beach , a 1-hour 20-minute drive northwest from Inverness. There’s no official car park here so just pull over on the side of the road and walk down to the serene, pebbly beach for a gentle walk or to practice stone skipping.

Admire the soaring Stac Pollaidh

Next, drive 20-minutes north to the Stac Pollaidh , a soaring rocky mountain with sandstone pinnacles. I suggest navigating to the main carpark which is a short walk from the mountain’s base and primarily used by mountain climbing enthusiasts. This region is where you’ll find yourself pulling over every few minutes to take photos of lakes, spectacular views of the mountain, or herds of cute fluffy sheep.

I didn’t venture too far from the carpark but spent a few minutes admiring the serene Stac Pollaidh, and took a quick drone flight, before continuing on.

Have lunch at the only restaurant in Achiltibuie

Next, drive 20 minutes west to the Achiltibuie Piping School Café , a small, basic restaurant overlooking green fields stretching towards the sea. The restaurant’s veggie burger is delicious and they have free Wi-Fi… not bad for such a remote location!

Stretch your legs at Achmelvich Beach

The next leg is one of the most beautiful and also one of the most nerve-wracking with narrow roads winding around sharp corners and up steep hills. You’ll find yourself pulling over to let people pass as you drive under lush canopies and beside trickling creeks that seem to have leapt out of the pages of a whimsical fairy tale.

Navigate to Achmelvich Beach Car Park , a 1-hour drive north from Achiltibuie, and walk 2 minutes down to the white, sandy beach flanked by rocky outcrops. It was fairly cold and windy on the day of our visit, but we still enjoyed a short walk along the paradisiac shore.

Walk out to the ruins of Advreck Castle

Next, navigate to the Advreck Castle Parking lot to visit the ruins of this 16 th century castle, a 22-minute drive east from Achmelvich Beach. The ‘parking lot’ is more of a shoulder on the side of the road, but don’t worry if it’s full as there are a few other wide shoulders nearby. The castle ruins are located at the end of a sandbar and across a large field with no real footpath. The ruins are exquisite to see up close but make sure you bring waterproof shoes as the field can be quite muddy. Or just do it “Josh style” and dance across the water-logged grass on your tippy toes like a sugar plum fairy . On the opposite side of the road is another waterfall .

Check into your B&B in Ullapool

Drive 35 minutes south to check into your B&B in Ullapool. I recommend staying at Riverside because of its central location within walking distance of several restaurants, friendly staff, and traditional Scottish breakfasts, including a vegetarian option.

I suggest either Ceilidh Place or the Arch Inn for dinner. Ceilidh Place requires an advanced booking while the Arch Inn asks guests to enjoy a drink in the bar until a table is free.

Day 5 – Ullapool to Isle of Skye

Driving time: 5 hours, 45 minutes

Day 5 requires navigating to a few stops along the famous North Coast 500 route to keep Google Maps on the scenic road. If you navigate straight to the Isle of Skye, Google Maps will take you on the most direct route, which involves less driving, but misses the jaw-dropping gorges, rivers, and waterfalls along Scotland’s exquisite north-west coastline.

I left Ullapool at 9am, had lunch in Torridon at 1.30pm, dinner on the Isle of Skye at 6pm, and arrived at my B&B on the Isle of Skye at 7:30pm.

Marvel at lush gardens thriving on a seaside clifftop at Inverewe Garden

Before leaving Ullapool, make a quick stop at Tesco to refill your road trip snack supply. Then navigate to Inverewe Garden , a 1-hour 15-minute drive southwest from Ullapool.  

Inverewe Garden is a lush botanical garden remarkably thriving on a harsh windy, rocky coastline. The garden includes plants from various climates and regions, including a vegetable garden, bamboo forest, South American garden, and succulent garden. The lookout point offers panoramic views over the sea and an old hunting lodge has been transformed into a small museum. Tickets are available at the door for £12.50 per adult. Tip: Keep a lookout for the teeny Venus flytrap!

Visit length:1 hour

Wander through church ruins before lunch in Torridon

Next, navigate to the Torridon Stores & Cafe , a 1-hour drive from Inverewe Garden, and park in the small carpark across the road. Walk about 5 minutes down a gravel path to the Am Ploc Open Air Church Ruins , dramatically located on the water’s edge.

After a peaceful stroll through the ruins, have some lunch either at Torridon Stores & Café or the Torridon Inn , a 6-minute drive away.

Try to spot highland coos on the road to Applecross

Navigate to the Applecross Inn , a 1-hour drive southeast from Torridon via Fernmore . You may see some highland coos grazing alongside the road to Applecross if you’re lucky.

Stop at the Applecross Inn for a coffee break before continuing to possibly one of the most stunning scenic mountain passes in the world… “Bealach na Ba”. Sorry, you can’t buy a vowel. It means “pass of the cattle” in Scottish. I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

Check into your B&B on the Isle of Skye

Next, navigate to the vegan-friendly Café Sia on Isle of Skye where I stopped for dinner at about 6pm. Café Sia is a winding 1-hour 25-minute drive from Bealach na Ba Viewpoint. The route will take you across the Skye Bridge for your first view of the Isle of Skye’s cloud-tipped cliffs and verdant fields. It could only be described as a love child of Middle Earth and Hawaii.

After dinner drive another 50 minutes northwest to Portree to check into your B&B for the next 3 nights. I stayed at Kiloran Bed and Breakfast , a 10-minute drive northwest of Portree and the perfect location for a little peace and quiet with waterfront views. Our host, Neil, made continental breakfast each morning with fruit, cereals, toast, and porridge, and kindly shared expert local tips on each location we planned to visit with the aid of his wall-sized map of the island.

Day 6 – Isle of Skye

Driving time: 2.5 hours

The first day on the Isle of Skye is spent exploring the Trotternish peninsular, home to some of the isle’s most beautiful landscapes.

I left my B&B at 10am, had lunch in Staffin at 1pm, dinner in Portree at 6:30pm, and returned to the B&B at 7.30pm.

Drive along Loch Fada to the Old Man of Storr

Navigate to the Old Man of Storr parking lot to see the rocky mountain face resembling a pointed finger. In fact, from a certain angle it looks like a middle finger. This is Scotland, after all. The carpark tends to be quite busy so you may have to wait for someone to leave or park in a shoulder further up the road. The 30-minute drive from Kiloran Bed and Breakfast will take you along the serene Loch Fada , which I couldn’t resist pulling over to photograph.

If you enjoy hiking, follow the dirt track uphill to see the Old Man of Storr up close, which will take a little under 2 hours. Otherwise, follow the path for 15-20 minutes for slightly better views, then return to the carpark. I chose the second option to fit more into the day.

Look out over Brothers Point

Next, drive 12 minutes north to park at Brothers point (Rubha nam Brathairean) and wander over to the 2 lookout points. One lookout point has views of a waterfall while the other has views of dramatic cliffs soaring up from the sea. If you’re not afraid of heights, follow the dirt path to the edge of the cliffs for a closer look, just don’t get too close!

Quickly admire Kilt Rock

Next, drive 6 minutes north to the Kilt Rock & Mealt Falls Viewpoint for the best views of a large rock that remarkably resembles a Scottish kilt. You’ll also see a man-made waterfall teeming down the side of a cliff into the sea and informative plaques on dinosaur footprints found in the area.

Lunch in Staffin

When you’re ready for lunch, drive 5-minutes north to the small town of Staffin. I chose to eat at Columba 1400 Café which has several vegetarian and vegan options.

Walk among dinosaur footprints at An Corran Beach 

After lunch, drive 5 minutes north to the rocky An Corran Beach to see fossilized dinosaur footprints . There’s a plaque highlighting where on the rocky shore the footprints are located, but I personally couldn’t spot them. Can you see them in the picture below? Squint harder!

Dinosaur footprints or not, the beach makes for a relaxing stroll to admire gently lapping waves and small rock pools.

Marvel at the Quiraing

Navigate 10 minutes west up a steep, winding road to the Quiraing . There are 2 carparks at the top of the mountain, but if you’re anything like me, you’ll want to pull over along the way for photos.

I recommend spending at least 30 minutes wandering around the iconic landscapes of the Quiraing to appreciate the views. Be careful to avoid muddy patches or wear waterproof shoes.

Stop for a coffee break

We felt like a hot drink after walking around in the beautiful yet chilly landscapes of the Quiraing and drove 17 minutes north to the Single Track Art Gallery & Espresso Bar - one of Neil’s recommendations. I was pleasantly surprised to discover this tiny coffee shop sold vegan hot chocolate (with oat milk) and even had a few vegan cakes.

Saunter among the ruins of Duntlum Castle

Next, drive 5 minutes west to see the ruins of Duntlum Castle , located on the northern tip of the Isle of Skye. Park along the side of the road and walk about 5 minutes north along a somewhat muddy dirt track through a field of grazing sheep to view the crumbly cliffside castle.

Wander through the Fairy Glen

Navigate 25 minutes south to The Fairy Glen and park in a shoulder on the side of the road. The Fairy Glen has some of the most otherworldly landscapes on Skye, bearing an eerily close resemblance to The Shire of Middle Earth. I half-expected to spot hobbits. I suggest spending at least an hour to wander up and down the small hills, admiring the scenery from every possible angle.

Dinner in Portree

Drive 30 minutes southeast back to Portree for dinner and park in the short-term carpark , which is free after 6pm. I had dinner at Caroy House , which doesn’t take bookings but asks guests to enjoy a drink in the bar until a table is free. We only had to wait about 20 minutes. I recommend the millionaires log with vegan ice-cream for desert.

Day 7 – Isle of Skye

Driving time: 2 hours 45 minutes

I started day 7 by venturing to the lesser-known Waternish peninsula then visiting more popular sites at Dunvegan and Neist Point on the Duirinish peninsula.

I left my B&B at 10:30am, had lunch in Dunvegan at 1:30pm, dinner in Portree at 6pm, and returned to my B&B at 7:30pm.

See the ruins of Trumpan Church involved in clan disputes

Navigate to Trumpan Church , a 35-minute drive northwest from Kiloran Bed and Breakfast past several farming fields, a few art galleries, and exquisite views over the sea. There’s a small carpark opposite the ruins with informative plaques on bird watching in the area and the history of the church, which was involved in hideously bloody disputes between the MacDonald and MacLeod clans.

This part of the Isle of Skye is less popular with tourists and the perfect place to enjoy beautiful scenery away from the crowds.

Visit a seal colony from Dunvegan Castle

Drive 26 minutes south from Trumpan Church to Dunvegan Castle and Gardens and park in the carpark across the road. Tickets to visit the castle and surrounding gardens can be bought at the door for £14 per adult.

Before visiting Dunvegan Castle, the traditional home of the MacLeod clan, I recommend walking straight to the jetty to book a boat visit to a nearby seal colony. Boats run every 20 minutes on a first-come-first-served basis and tickets cost £9.50 per adult. Our boat captain shared a few Scottish folk tales and interesting facts about seals, like the markings on their skin being as unique as our fingerprints, as he guided us around small islands to see a colony of common seals. Bring a waterproof jacket as its difficult to avoid getting splashed by the chilly seawater.

After the boat tour, we wandered around the beautiful landscaped gardens and then visited inside the castle, following the set route to see exquisite antique furniture, portraits of former MacLeod clan chiefs, and prized possessions like the Fairy Flag which is said to have brought good luck to the MacLeod clan.

Visit length: 90 minutes

Lunch at The Dunvegan

Drive 2 minutes south to The Dunvegan Deli Cafe for lunch. I recommend the vegan charcuterie board. Yum!

After lunch, walk 2 minutes north along the road to see some locally made jewellery, clothing, art, and notepads at the Makers Market .

Visit the westernmost point of the Isle of Skye at Neist Point

Navigate 32 minutes west to the Neist Point carpark for climactic cliff oceanfront landscapes and the charming Neist Point Lighthouse . It takes about 30 minutes to climb down the steep stairs and follow the dirt path to the lighthouse. Bring a bottle of water as the climb back up to the car park is quite breathtaking – in the un-fit kind of way.

Before heading back to the car, I walked over to the top of the cliffs north from the carpark for the most iconic views over Neist Point and the lighthouse.

Drive 1 hour from Neist Point to the familiar-looking Portree short-term carpark for dinner. I recommend the Taste of India for delicious curries and a cocktail bar.

Day 8 – Isle of Skye to Kyle of Lochalsh

Driving Time: 2.5 hours

Day 8 involves visiting the southeast of the Isle of Skye on the way to Kyle of Lochalsh, where I spent the night to reduce driving time back to Edinburgh the following day.

I checked out of Kiloran Bed and Breakfast at 9:30am, had lunch in Silgachen at 1pm, and checked into my B&B at Kyle of Lochalsh at 5pm.

Walk alongside cascading waterfalls at the Fairy Pools

Drive 1 hour south from Kiloran Bed and Breakfast to the to the Fairy Pools Carpark and walk about 30 minutes down a long rocky path to reach the Fairy Pools . Spend at least 30 minutes walking alongside the cascading waterfalls and admiring the turquoise pools from every angle. Wear suitable shoes as some of the path involves navigating stepping stones across a creek as well as a muddy patch or two.

See more waterfalls at Silgachan

Navigate 25 minutes east to the Silgachan Waterfalls and park in a shoulder on the side of the road. You’ll only need to walk about 5 minutes to reach these waterfalls, which are just as impressive as the Fairy Pools in my opinion.

Visit length: 30 minutes  

Lunch at the Silgachan Hotel

Drive 2 minutes to Seumas’ Bar at the Silgachan Hotel for lunch. I recommend the Mexican 5 bean chilli and a glass of water fresh from the hotel’s natural spring. If the weather is cooperating, you could also wander across the road to quickly visit the Silgachan Old Bridge .

Tour the Talisker Whisky Distillery

After lunch, drive 15 minutes west from Silgachan to Talisker Whisky Distillery to join the 2pm tour. Tours tend to fill up fast so I suggest booking online or by phone at least 48 hours in advance to avoid disappointment. Tickets cost £10 per adult.

Our cheerful guide, Gordon, explained the history of Talisker, which dates back to 1830, as well as the history of crafting single malt whisky. He walked us through the modern process of making whisky, showing us the raw ingredient, barley, and the distillery’s mashing, fermentation, and distilling machines. The best part of the tour was saved for last when we got to taste their most popular whisky, Talisker Storm.

After the tour, you can wander around the gift shop and perhaps pick up a bottle or two of whisky to take home.

Find cute highland coos

Navigate 20 minutes east to this super-secret Coo view point to hopefully spot highland coos up close. I drove past to see where the coos were then turned around to pull into the nearest shoulder. It was pouring with sideways rain on the day of my visit, but the coos didn’t seem to mind!

Visit length: 15 minutes

Visit one last waterfall before leaving the Isle of Skye

Drive 3 minutes south to Blackhill Waterfall and pull over into a shoulder on the side of the road. The waterfall is visible from the road, but you can walk over for a closer look if you prefer.

Check into your last B&B

Drive 27 minutes east to check into your last B&B in the Scottish Highlands. I stayed at Seawinds , a simple, yet comfortable accommodation with everything you need for 1 night.

I recommend having dinner at Hector’s Bothy , an 8-minute walk or a 3-minute drive from Seawinds.

Day 9 – Kyle of Lochalsh to Edinburgh

Driving time: 6 hours 15 minutes

Day 9 is the longest driving day with a handful of scenic stops to stretch your legs.

I left Kyle of Lochalsh at 9:30am, had lunch in Fort William at 12pm, and arrived in Edinburgh at 6pm.

Explore Eilean Donan Castle

Drive 13 minutes east from Seawinds to Eilean Donan Castle , a restored 13 th century castle located on a small island at the meeting point of 3 lochs. Tickets can be bought at the door for £10 per adult and includes an audio guide, which leads you on a route through the castle, explaining its 700-year-long history. Highlights include spectacular views over the sea and mountains, a grand hall, and a replica 13 th century kitchen.

Lunch in Fort William

Navigate to the Viewforth Carpark in Fort William, a 90-minute drive southeast from Eilean Donan. Ignore map directions that lead you along the north side of Loch Lochy which is impassable – I found out the hard way.

Once you’ve paid for parking walk along Fort William’s pedestrian street to find a spot for lunch. I recommend the town’s only vegan restaurant, The Wildcat . Tip: try the chocolate cake.

After lunch, drive 10 minutes northeast to Inverlochy Castle to walk through the ruins of a 13th-century castle for free. A 10-minute stop should be plenty.

Stop at the Glencoe Visitors Centre

Drive 32 minutes south to the Glencoe Visitor Centre which has a well-stocked gift shop, several walking trails, and an amazing view of soaring mountain peaks. Parking costs £4 but is worth it for the decent rest stop.

Visit the roaring Falls of Falloch

Stop for a few minutes just east of the visitor centre at the Loch Achtriochtan viewpoint on the side of the road.

Navigate 50 minutes south, leaving the mountainous terrain behind, for the Falls of Falloch and make use of the free carpark.

Follow the footpath all the way to the end for the best views of the waterfall. Don’t abandon the footpath to follow the sound of rushing water via dirt tracks as this will lead you up the garden path. Literally. Trust me, I tried it, stick to the footpath.

Drive to Edinburgh

Drive 2 hours 6 minutes back to Edinburgh to return the hire car. I recommend spending another night at the Radisson Collection to recover from the long drive before returning home the following day.

If you had another day or two up your sleeve you could spend the time in Glasgow, exploring the city, before returning to Edinburgh. I did a fascinating tour of The Clydesdale Distillery (for more free whisky samples!) and devoured a mouth-watering Durty Vegan Burger – the ultimate way to end an epic road trip.

The Bottom Line

Wow! What a whirlwind adventure around the Scottish Highlands! I don’t think I could call this a “wee road trip” anymore. There were just too many memorable moments. We crammed in bagpipes, castles, haggis (the vegan version in my case), seals, coos, sheep, fairies, churches, museums, waterfalls, whisky, and even a mountain that gave me the finger.

My 9-day Scotland road trip itinerary required over 23 hours of driving , but every minute was divine. While each tantalising location begged for more exploration, I gained a tangible taste for their unique personalities. And with this itinerary, so will you.

There’s really only 1 thing that could make this trip even better, laddie… and that’s wearing an orange wig and sporting a harsh Scoooootish accent the entire time.

Oh wait, nah, I’ve already done that.

True story.

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Reader Comments...

Loved your whirlwind trip account! You hit a lot of my favourite places from a small bus trip I took a few years ago but now I am inspired to go back and do a car trip! Thank you!

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Travelling to scotland for the first time: 20 things to taste, feel, do & see.

Are you travelling to Scotland for the first time and want to make sure that you do everything a first-timer can’t leave without? Scotland is full of experiences that can make your trip an unforgettable one, and if you’ve long dreamt about visiting Scotland, I’m sure that you have a long bucket list of things to see and do. This post suggests 20 things to taste, feel, do and see, if you’re planning a trip to Scotland and it’s your first time in the country.

This post contains affiliate links from which I may make a commission. Find out more here . All opinions are my own.

I love thinking back to when I arrived in Scotland. I moved here on a whim without ever visiting before. I had no idea what to expect, but I knew Scotland was famous for things like whisky, rain and men in skirts kilts. Within my first year in Glasgow I made a lot of wonderful experiences, tasted what the country’s larder has to offer, saw the wilderness and beauty of the Highlands and felt what it means to be at mercy of the Scottish weather.

Having guided many of my friends, family members and lately clients through their first visit to Scotland, I thought it was time to make it easier for you to prepare a bucket list of must have first timer experiences in this country!

Need help with your trip? Hire me to review your itinerary or to plan a custom route for your trip!

You can find a printable first timer’s checklist & many more planning resources in my Scotland Travel Resource Library – get it here !

Need help finding cheap airfare to Scotland? Check out my tips for booking flights to Scotland .

Top tip: Book approx. 9 months in advance with Aer Lingus US or Aer Lingus Canada .

Table of Contents

TASTE Scotland

  A whisky from each region

There are five whisky regions in Scotland (Lowlands, Highlands & Islands, Islay, Speyside and Campbelltown) and each offers its own bouquet of fragrance and taste. I’ve only started enjoying whisky a couple of years into living in Scotland, but if you appreciate your whisky, then try at least one from each region and taste the difference.

You might also like: My essential guide to trying Scottish whisky

  Traditional (veggie) haggis

Haggis is the national dish of Scotland and no trip to Scotland would be complete without at least trying a little bit. If you’re a little squeamish, don’t make the mistake to ask what’s in it before you tasted it, though. Personally, I prefer the veggie version (some veggie Haggis brands are even vegan!), which is a good alternative if you don’t eat meat or want to take it slowly.

  Liquid Gold: Irn Bru

The in-official national drink of Scotland is not whisky or beer, but a bright orange soft drink that tastes sweeter than any other you’ve ever tried; Irn Bru. To an outsider like myself, Irn Bru might be an acquired taste, but if you visit Scotland for the first time, you should at least try it. If soft drinks aren’t your cup of tea, try Irn Bru sweeties, sorbet or cakes – personally, I much prefer those!

  A flight of Scottish craft beers

Back to alcoholic drinks though. While Scotland’s largest beer producers focus on easy-to-drink lager, there is a budding craft beer scene emerging in unexpected places all over the country. In many pubs you will find a variety of craft beers from around Scotland, and if you fancy trying a couple different ones, you should ask if you can order a flight of beers. This flight usually contains several small glasses of different ales, stouts and lagers from various breweries and should give you an idea of what brewing in Scotland tastes like.

  The Vegan Scene in Glasgow & Edinburgh

The creativity and dedication chefs in Glasgow and Edinburgh put into providing vegan options is incredible. I mostly enjoy how some of them re-invent Scottish classics without the use of animal products, but also love how the more healthy options in the cities change the face of typical Scottish cuisine. Whether you are vegan or not, you should definitely try at least one vegan dish while you’re here.

A few more things to TASTE: Scottish strawberries when they’re in season. If you eat meat & seafood, try some traditional Scottish dishes , like Cullen Skink, Black Pudding, Steak Pie or seafood from Loch Fyne. Scottish gin is catching up to the whisky industry, and there are many variations to try.

Keep track of your travel memories with my Scotland Travel Journal !

FEEL Scotland

  The chilling water of a Scottish Loch

Dreaming of diving into a Scottish loch? Or maybe more like dipping your toe in… Even though Scottish lochs can be unpleasantly cold, I recommend taking your shoes and socks off at least once, to feel the water play around your ankle. A lot of the water you see in Scotland comes straight from the mountains (and from the rain of course), and it is very special to connect with nature in this way. If you want a ‘warmer’ Loch, try Loch Ard – it is shallower than many other lochs and thus one of the best places for wild swimming in Scotland .

  The rhythm of (traditional) Scottish Music

When I think of traditional Scottish instruments, I can already hear the majestic bagpipes, or a fiddle accompanied by a small flute. The best way to feel the rhythm of traditional Scottish music is by attending a ceilidh, a traditional Scottish dance event where you dance in couples or small groups – but don’t worry the band leader always explains how each dance works! But Scotland isn’t just about traditional music, and going to a gig at one of the iconic Glasgow music venues  or during the Edinburgh festivals is an absolute must!

5 different kinds of rain

Rumour has it that the Scots have more words for rain, than the Inuit for snow… Indeed, just saying that it’s raining is far from precise enough in this country – is it just lightly drizzling or is it lashing down? Is the sun still shining or are the clouds hanging low above your head? When you visit Scotland, experiencing some rain is almost inevitable (that’s why it’s so green here after all), and by the time you leave you will have probably experienced at least 5 different kinds of rain!

Do you know  what to expect from Scottish weather & how to pack to deal with it ?

  A warm welcome

The Scots are an incredible warm and welcoming people, and I’m almost certain that cannot even make it out of the country without feeling this. Talk to your B&B hosts, chat to show owners and restaurant staff, ask for local’s advice and tell them what you’ve loved about their country so far. If you can’t understand someone – just ask them to talk a bit slower or repeat; or maybe they’ve used a typical Scottish word you don’t know? Ask them to explain and you’ll make a friend for life!

Glasgow is particularly known for it’s friendly locals – here are some tips on how to meet them .

You might also like: 20 Beautiful Towns to Visit in Scotland

  The thrill of surviving a single track road

Road trips are the best way to explore Scotland beyond the tourist attractions; however, driving in Scotland can also be quite intimidating. Even if driving on the left is not an issue – either because you’re used to it or you’re just badass – it’s the narrow roads, especially single-track roads that are the most thrilling to drive. Make sure include at least one on your road trip – but drive safely !

Find the most scenic road trips in Scotland & how to navigate them .

A few more things to FEEL: The sense of accomplishment when driving on the left side of the road. The scent of blooming flowers in your nose – whether you come for bluebells, rhododendron or heather. A sense of disconnecting from civilisation as your phone signal fades away in the Highlands.

DO Scotland

  Visit a whisky distillery

Now that you’ve tried a few different whiskies, it’s time to learn more about how it’s made! There are many whisky distilleries in Scotland and no matter which region you chose to spend most of your time in, I guarantee you, the next distillery won’t be far! Most distilleries offer tours for £10-15 which usually last around an hour and include a wee dram – one serving of whisky per person. Not only will your guide explain the correct way of tasting and drinking whisky in a pub, but you also see the whole process from grain to bottle!

A great distillery near Glasgow for example is Glengoyne Distillery in the Trossachs. You can visit it on a Rabbie’s tour  (there’s a half-day tour from Glasgow, but various day tours from Glasgow and Edinburgh also stop here) – it saves you driving yourself!

You might also like: My Top 20 Places to Visit in Scotland

  Climb a Munro (or a smaller hill)

To get up close with the Scottish Highlands, you’ll have to hike in them! Real hiking junkies can come to Scotland for munro-bagging. A munro is a Scottish mountain higher than 3,000 feet and there are 282 of them. While you might not fit all of them into your trip, it is worth including at least one in your itinerary to get a bird’s eye view of the mountains and glens. If you’re not experienced enough to tackle such a giant, there are also lots of beautiful hikes up smaller hills that are nowhere short of gorgeous views.

Why not plan a hike up Ben A’an  (Trossachs), Goatfell  (Isle of Arran), Kilpatrick Hills (Glasgow) or Grey Mare’s Tail  (Dumfries & Galloway)?

If you’d like to hike a few days in a row, consider walking the West Highland Way – or at least part of it!

Wonder how I plan my long-distance hikes? Check out my step-by-step guide for  planning a self-guided walking holiday in Scotland  for more tips.

  Take a ferry or a scenic train ride

Scotland is not only beautiful from the roadside or the hiking trails. Some of the best views can only be seen from aboard a ferry or a train! Iconic train lines, like the West Highland Line which runs through the isolated landscape of Rannoch Moor and crosses the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct between Fort William and Mallaig, are joined by leisurely ferry journeys across to the islands of the Hebrides, Orkney or Shetland.

A particularly special journey is the ride from Fort William to Mallaig aboard the Jacobite Steam Train .

Visit a Castle

There really is no shortage of Castles in Scotland – there even is a Castle Trail in Aberdeenshire , the region in Scotland with the highest density of castles! Visiting at least one castle while you’re in Scotland is a no-brainer and your options are basically endless, whether you tour the highlights or explore off the beaten path. I highly recommend visiting two different kinds of castles – first, a ruined castle, like Kilchurn (in Argyll), Dunnottar (near Aberdeen) or Urquhart (by Loch Ness); and second a well-maintained or restored castle, like Stirling , Inveraray  (near Oban) or Culzean  (in Ayrshire).

  Do some city sightseeing

Admittedly, most people come to Scotland to see the wild countryside, but the Scottish cities are definitely worth a visit too! When you put your itinerary together plan at least one day in Edinburgh and Glasgow – they’re so close, but world’s apart – and consider going off the beaten track by spending more time in Aberdeen, Dundee or Stirling – there is more than the castle, you must know!

Find out how to choose the best Scotland itinerary for you!

A few more things to DO : Sea kayaking in some of Scotland’s best kayaking territories around Oban . Attend a festival , for example the Edinburgh Fringe or one of the viking festivals in Shetland .

SEE Scotland

  Spot Scottish wildlife

Like on any Africa safari, you should come to Scotland with a lost of local wildlife you want to see here. Scottish Highland Cows and sheep are a no-brainer and fairly easy to tick off; red squirrels and majestic stags are a bit harder to spot. If you come during the summer, make sure you visit one of the nesting colonies of puffins , along the West Coast or on the islands. And most importantly, bonus points if you manage to stroke a little  haggis !

You might also like: The best places to see wild animals in Scotland

  A white sandy beach

Not all of Scotland is lush green – the coastline is lined with beautiful white sandy beaches where you can dig your toes in the sand and listen to the roaring waves crashing onto the land. Some of the best beaches lie far off the beaten track on the Outer Hebrides , but even on the mainland – along the coasts of Aberdeenshire and Moray, but also around the NC500, there are many beaches just waiting for you!

  Vibrant street art

Glasgow is without a doubt Scotland’s most colourful city when it comes to street art and a self-guided tour is one of the many fun and free things to do in Glasgow if you’re interested in some urban culture. However, other places are catching up too! New murals are popping up all over Fife , and in Dundee you can go for street art tours with Open/Close .

  A lighthouse

There are over 80 lighthouses along the coastline of Scotland (even more if you also count the smaller lights), so it should not be too hard to fit one into your itinerary. Most of them where built by four generations of the Stevenson family, often under the most horrible conditions – which luckily, you can’t see when you look at the lighthouses today!

  A Scotsman in a kilt

Last, but not least, your Scotland trip would not be complete without seeing at least one Scotsman in a kilt. You might just have to make do with the bagpipe buskers in Glasgow or Edinburgh, but you might be lucky and stumble across a wedding party (kilts are men’s traditional wedding attire) or even a real Highlander on your journeys into the mountains! Just promise me one thing – don’t lift their kilts!

You might also like: Binge-worthy podcasts from Scotland to fuel your wanderlust

A few more things to SEE: Masterpieces of Scottish engineering such as the Forth bridges, the Falkirk Wheel and the Kelpies . Endless miles of uninhabited coastline and lonely islands  – far away from the bustle of the cities. One of Scotland’s historical University campuses in Glasgow, Edinburgh, St Andrews or Aberdeen.

Of course, you will make much more than just these 20 experiences in Scotland – but they are a start and will hopefully help you plan a diverse trip that covers a little bit of everything Scotland has to offer!

To make it easier for you to keep track of your progress, I’ve designed a freebie to print off and bring to Scotland with you. You can find the First Timer’s Checklist printable in my Scotland Resource Library .

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22 thoughts on “ Travelling to Scotland for the First Time: 20 Things to Taste, Feel, Do & See ”

This post is very helpful and I can tell full of honesty. Thank you for your info and great ideas! I’m planning a graduation/welcome to adulthood trip for my sister and I summer of 2022. I’m looking forward to it so much.

Glad you’re finding it useful! Happy trip planning! 🙂

Cool, thanks for sharing Kathi, really a very comprehensive guide with many useful tips! if we may add some for tourists from a safety perspective, watch out for fraudulent online tour operators, shady vacation apartment listings/sites and fake ticket sites.

Otherwise, have a whale of time in Scotland 🙂

Amazing post. I am glad that my husband has planned our honeymoon trip to Scotland and this guide is very helpful to us so that we can explore everything over there and create great memories. Keep sharing such interesting places.

I am Planning a family experience in June and July 2022 with up to nine adults and teens. I have ordered one of your travel packages. We are interested in music, science. Museum of Scotland, the kelpies, canal boats between Edinboro and Glasgow, staying in B And B, etc. At least one chuch service etc. What are your services. Charges . Etc. We want to travel together in a small “bus”. Judy P. Ohio. USA

Hi Judy, you can find out more about my services here: https://watchmesee.com/watch-me-see-scotland-travel-consultation/ – I offer itinerary reviews as well as more support through itinerary planning and accommodation research. Feel free to send me an email to [email protected] it you have any questions or book a free 20-minute call with me to discuss your options: https://calendly.com/kathi-kamleitner/watch-me-see-itinerary-enquiry Cheers, Kathi

I was once in Aberdeen, visiting some friends. I loved it. One remarkable thing was that couldn’t usually tell the difference between the colours of the walls and that of the sky…

Did you have the chance of listening bagpipes music in Scotland?

That sounds like Aberdeen – it’s not called the Granite City for nothing! I’m glad you still enjoyed it!!

Awesome post. This post is very helpful to me as I planned a trip to Scotland and I am glad that I have planned it as there is so much places to visit and so much exciting things to do, After reading your post I can’t wait to explore the beautiful Scotland. Keep sharing such interesting posts.

I’m happy to hear you find it useful! I hope you get to experience as many of these on your first trip here as possible 🙂 Enjoy your journey!!

My husband’s family came from Scotland, and he has been wanting to go on a trip to see everything. Thank you for listing all the things we could do when we go. I’m glad you mentioned that road trips are the best way to explore Scotland. We will have to make sure that we include a road trip around the place.

Thanks for your comment – how exciting to come to Scotland and trace your husband’s heritage! I honestly believe road trips are the best; there are beautiful train lines as well, and lots of great tour companies, but driving yourself simply gives you most freedom to go off the beaten track and explore. I hope you have a wonderful trip!!

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Scotland seems so stunning and picturesque, Kathi. And, your pictures just prove the essence and the real beauty of it. I really hope to cross it off my bucket list and use your post as the ultimate guide for there!

Thank you!! I really don’t have to do so much for the photos to be stunning though – Scotland really does the bulk of the work 😀 Hope you get to visit one day!!

Ha ha definitely single track roads were the most thrilling thing on my first travel to Scotland (when I was still living in Spain). And I thank God for veggie haggis ? Great article!!

Thanks! Driving in Scotland really is a bit like a rollercoaster ride 😀

Haven’t hit up Scotland yet (or the scotch someone gave me for my birthday…2 years ago) but this makes me want to get there faster. Thanks for sharing!

Being Scottish myself I feel you’ve created the perfect Bucket list here for first timers! After travelling for so long I always love to read about home…though it makes me miss irn bru even more!!

Aw, thanks Lauren!! If it was up to me, they could export the entire product to on of irn bru to your door step 😀 *notafan*

I would love to go for the scenic train ride and the whiskey distillery for sure! Bookmarked this post for a later time!

For a small county Scotland offers up so much choice. This guide helps cuts through That!

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Welcome to Live Breathe Scotland, my name is Chris Thornton and this is my online space to blog about all things in my home country of Scotland . You'll find it full of practical information and advice on Scottish travel , places to stay / accommodation suggestions, cost, walks , a day trip, road trip itinerary / travel guide and general things to experience around Scotland. Maybe even a few Scottish recipes!  I also go into detail of Scottish history for each location I write about.

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Live Breathe Scotland

Scotland is one of the world's premiere destinations with  incredible mountains, ancient castles, fresh air and deep cool lochs . There are many fun road trips such as North Coast 500 & Islands, South West Coastal 300, North East 250, The Argyll Coastal Route and The Borders Historic Route. Golfers will be at home on many of our world-class golf courses, especially at the birthplace of golf - St Andrews .

I'm based in Moray , on the beautiful Moray Firth Coast , famous for its coastline ( Bow Fiddle Rock ) and wildlife.  More than half of Scotland's Whisky distilleries are based here and there are many tours available to see them.

Scottish Highlands is home to the highest mountain in the UK - Ben Nevis near Fort William and Loch Ness south of Inverness, world-famous for the monster legend.

Scottish Cities

The cities of Inverness, Edinburgh and Glasgow  have a great deal to offer first time travellers with attractions like Edinburgh Castle, Edinburgh Fringe Festival, Harry Potter tours or Glasgow Science Centre and the Riverside Museum and Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park. Edinburgh is also world-famous for its New Year's celebrations.

The Scottish Isles

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Scotland is famous for its award-winning food and drink industry to rival anywhere in the world. With over 130 distilleries, Scotch Whisky is a major export to the rest of the world. Distillery tours are popular amongst tourists from America, Europe and Japan... and also with our English neighbours.

We also have the best traditional music! Speyfest and Belladrum festivals attract international visitors.

Visit Scotland for your next destination for adventures with friends, your experiences will stay with you for a lifetime.  Scotland is also ideal for solo female travelers and you will undoubtedly leave having made some new Scottish friends.  This Scotland travel blog will help you plan your trip to Scotland, be it a few days or a few weeks. I love Scotland, I hope you will too!

A location map of articles written on Live Breathe Scotland has now been added here.

Copyright © Live Breathe Scotland 2024

All photography by Chris Thornton, John Luckwell and Alan Butterfield. Some stock photography used via depositphotos.com .

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How to Plan the Perfect Scotland Vacation

From fairy-tale castles to charming small towns, the Scottish countryside is every bit as spectacular as you've heard.

Best Times to Go to Scotland

Best things to do in scotland.

• Getting to the Scottish Highlands

Where to Stay in Scotland

With its stately castles , glass-like lochs, and voluptuous glens, Scotland has always been a showstopper. The country's magic extends from its quaint small towns to the snow-capped peaks of its romantic, rugged Highlands to its dynamic modern cities like Glasgow and Edinburgh. It's home to some of the best national parks in the U.K. and more than 900 offshore islands with extraordinary wildlife like regal red stags, majestic golden eagles, humpback whales, and massive salmon (not to mention the fabled inhabitant of Loch Ness, too).

The raw, poetic beauty of this ancient land — formerly known as Caledonia — is difficult to overstate. If you're hoping to head to the U.K.'s ravishing northern nation, read on for our guide to planning the perfect Scotland vacation.

The bad news is that, like the rest of the U.K., Scotland's weather is far from reliable, even at the height of summer. But as long as you're prepared to accept that and pack a raincoat for the odd shower or two, then you'll be fine from May to September. The smart money is on visiting in June and the first two weeks of July, when Scotland basks in seemingly endless summer evenings (the sun doesn't set until 11 p.m. in some parts of the Highlands) and the British school holidays have not yet begun, so prices remain low.

For winter travelers, Scotland has the U.K.'s best ski resort at Cairngorm Mountain , while the capital, Edinburgh, hosts one of the world's biggest New Year's Eve parties, Hogmanay .

If you like the great outdoors, you'll love Scotland. It's an ideal place for hiking, biking, and generally embracing the wildly beautiful landscape. You can summit magnificent Ben Nevis in a day (the tallest mountain in the U.K., at 4,413 feet), take a ferry out to explore the Hebrides archipelago and its stunning white-sand beaches, tour scores of castles, including the Queen's favorite holiday home, Balmoral (open to the public every April through July), and dive into a quirky food scene encompassing dishes like haggis (an offal and oatmeal combo, which tastes significantly better than it sounds), deep-fried mars bars, and juicy scallops, langoustines, and mussels.

Scotland is also a mecca for both golfers ( St. Andrews Old Course is the headline act) and whisky lovers , with some of the world's best distilleries available to tour, including Johnnie Walker on Edinburgh's lively Princes Street, Glenlivet near pretty Ballindalloch, and the legendary Macallan on a sprawling country estate in nearby Aberlour.

If you enjoy driving, you'll find some of the U.K.'s emptiest, most dramatic roads here, too, (as driven by James Bond in "Skyfall"), including the latest official addition, the North Coast 500 , an action-packed 500-mile route (516 to be exact) featuring mind-boggling coastal scenery, jaw-dropping beaches, rolling hillside, quaint fishing villages, and multiple hidden gems.

And if you prefer your challenges on foot, check out the magnificent West Highland Way , the country's best-loved long-distance walking route. Snaking its way from Milngavie to Fort William, it covers some of Scotland's finest scenery over 96 miles and is normally completed from south to north.

Meanwhile, history buffs will also be agog on any visit to Scotland, thanks to its 3,000-plus castles ( Castle Sween in Argyll is the oldest, dating back to the 1100s), as well as plenty to check out in the winding wynds (narrow lanes) and twisted staircases of Edinburgh's enchanting Old Town. ( Edinburgh Castle , towering over the city, is arguably the grandest in the country, too.)

If you can, make time to visit Perth, the former Scottish capital where kings were crowned on the Stone of Destiny and infamous Glen Coe, a beautiful valley full of waterfalls and deer, also known for the brutal clan massacre of 1692 (which inspired the Red Wedding in George R. R. Martin's Game of Thrones ).

Where are the Scottish Highlands — and what is the best way to get there?

Jess Macdonald/Travel + Leisure

The clue is in its name: the Highlands are the mountainous upper half of Scotland, covering 10,000 square miles of picturesque scenery. The region's lively capital is Inverness , which sits centrally and is a superb base from which to explore, while other highlights include mysterious, misty Loch Ness, majestic Cairngorms National Park , and idyllic Isle of Skye , which has been connected to the mainland via a road bridge since 1995.

The easiest way to reach the Highlands is to fly into Inverness Airport from London or elsewhere in the U.K., or rent a car and drive from Glasgow or Edinburgh. However, the way to arrive in style is on the Caledonian Sleeper train from London Euston, a chugging time machine where you can fall asleep to the sounds of black cabs and bustle of the British capital and wake up among the red deer and magical glens of the Highlands. Regularly nominated as one of the world's best train journeys , the scenery gets truly spectacular after Fort William, as the route skirts a dramatic chain of lochs before descending into lush glens and crossing the Glenfinnan Viaduct made famous by the Harry Potter films. For the ultimate Hogwarts experience, steam locomotives work this route during the summer months, so check in advance for these special departures.

The major cities have an abundance of hotels for every budget, headlined by Glasgow's Kimpton Blythswood Square , a boutique property in the former headquarters of the Royal Scottish Automobile Club, and The Dunstane Houses in Edinburgh, a pair of beautifully renovated 19th-century townhouses.

Scotland arguably does traditional country house hotels and rustic lodges better than anywhere else in the world, with Fife Arms in Braemar and Gleneagles in Perthshire being particular treats (the latter, nicknamed the "Glorious Playground" boasts three championship golf courses, its own dedicated train station, and the only restaurant in the country with two Michelin stars).

Scotland is, of course, peppered with castles, and many have been converted into hotels and B&Bs in recent years, with some of the better fortified accommodation options including Glenapp Castle in Ayrshire, Inverlochy Castle in Fort William, Atholl Palace Hotel in Pitlochry, and Stonefield Castle Hotel on Loch Fyne.

Wherever you stay, you'll get a warm welcome — not to mention a hot bowl of Scottish porridge or a plate of bacon, eggs, and haggis to start the day in a spectacularly scenic country.

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Scotland is an amazing destination when it comes to accommodation. From airships and treehouses to stunning castles, you’ll love these unusual places to stay in Scotland .

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Gaza latest: Israel's use of weapons provided by US likely violated international law, report by Biden govt finds

The Biden administration says Israel likely violated international law with US-provided weapons. Earlier, Israel's ambassador to the UN used a paper shredder to shred the UN charter on stage at the UN General Assembly.

Saturday 11 May 2024 04:47, UK

• Israel-Hamas war

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• US report says Israel's use of arms likely violated international law
• Israeli ambassador to United Nations shreds 'copy of UN charter'
• UN General Assembly backs Palestinian bid for full membership
• Mark Stone analysis: Who voted with Israel at the UN and why were most Pacific Island nations?
• Netanyahu says Israelis will fight with 'fingernails' after Biden weapons warning - but Rafah decision unclear
• Israeli war cabinet 'approves expanded Rafah operation'
• Alistair Bunkall analysis: Biden's reputation is on the line if Netanyahu defies him
• Listen to the Daily above and tap here to follow wherever you get your podcasts
• Live reporting by Lauren Russell and (earlier) Richard Williams

Firefighters are battling a large blaze in Kiryat Shmona, a city in northern Israel, after 35 rockets were fired by Lebanon's Hezbollah, according to The Times of Israel.

The news site cited the Israel Fire and Rescue Services as saying 10 firefighting teams were at the scene.

Video posted on social media appeared to show the fire on what looked like the side of a hill.

No casualties or injuries have been reported. 

A report by the US government has said that Israel's use of US-provided weapons in Gaza likely violated international humanitarian law.

In the findings of a state department report - known as the national security memorandum - the Biden administration said it has found "reasonable" evidence to conclude that its ally had breached international law.

But it added it was unable to link specific US weapons to individual Israeli strikes. 

The report said: "Given Israel's significant reliance on US-made defence articles, it is reasonable to assess that defence articles have been used by Israeli security forces since 7 October in instances inconsistent with its international humanitarian law obligations or with established best practices for mitigating civilian harm."

It added that while Israel has the knowledge, experience and tools to implement the "best practices for mitigating civilian harm in its military operations" evidence from the ground - including high levels of civilian casualties - raise "substantial questions whether the IDF is using them effectively in all cases".

Turning to the issue of aid getting into Gaza, the US government report said it does not currently assess that the Israeli government is prohibiting or restricting the transport or delivery of aid. 

Crucially, the report stops short of saying that Israel has violated the terms under which it is able to use US weapons to carry out its offensive in Gaza.

By Mark Stone , US correspondent 

A huge majority of the world's nations voted with the Palestinians at the United Nations today.

But who were the nine countries that voted against the Palestinian quest for membership, rights and privileges at the UN, and why?

The current Israeli government is firmly against a Palestinian state in every sense.

Different iterations of Israeli governments over the years have oscillated on 'two states', but after the 7 October Hamas attacks the Israeli position cemented - no two states, no Palestinian state.

Broadly, they do not distinguish between the extremism of Hamas and the moderate nature of other Palestinian political factions like the Fatah-run Palestinian Authority in the West Bank. It's the crux of deadlock.

So who else? 

The United States

They stand behind Israel despite significant tension now between President Joe Biden and Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu. 

America is committed to a two-state solution but argues that it begins with a ceasefire and that the formation of a Palestinian state comes much further down the line.

Speaking after the vote, White House spokesman John Kirby said: "We continue to believe in the promise of a two-state solution and an independent state for the Palestinian people. 

"That's something that President Biden remains fully and firmly committed to. We also believe that the best way to do that is through direct negotiations with the parties and not through a vote at the UN of this kind, so that's why we voted no."

As always with geopolitics, relationships are so often symbiotic; they are all about mutual benefit even when, ostensibly, the relationship might seem incongruous.

The eastern-European EU member voted with Israel and against the Palestinians.

Don't assume that hard-right Hungarian Prime Minister Orban's hatred of Hungarian-born Jewish-US billionaire George Soros is a reflection of his views on Israel despite the anti-Soros narrative often being seen as antisemitic.

Antisemitism has haunted the right of politics in Hungary since the Second World War when half a million Jewish Hungarians were murdered. Yet Orban and Netanyahu have a close, longstanding relationship.

Israel and Hungary are aligned by mutual interests. 

Orban admires the way Netanyahu's ethos of building strength out of a small nation-state and the two leaders found mutual interest in standing up to liberal democratic headwinds.

Orban's fallout with the EU has aligned with Netanyahu's assessment that Europe is increasingly anti-Israel.

The Soros-hatred also aligns with Netanyahu in that the conspiracy is that Soros is somehow seeking to 'Islamise' Judeo-Christian Europe with his pro-immigration stance.

Argentina's vote is driven by new populist President Javier Milei who has pledged unwavering support for Netanyahu and has vowed to move Argentina's embassy to Jerusalem. 

Milei has said he plans to convert to Judaism.

Czech Republic

The Czech Republic also voted with Israel in line with a strongly pro-Israel stance underlined repeatedly since 7 October.

There is a strong historical bond between Czech leaders and the Zionist movement which helped cement the Jewish State which strengthened after the fall of Communism in 1989. 

As a new democracy, the Czech Republic bonded with a young democracy in Israel. In recent years, economic ties have flourished.

Pacific Island Nations

The rest, curiously maybe, are all Pacific Island nations: Micronesia, Papua New Guinea, Nauru and Palau.

The reason for their support is simple: straightforward soft power.

The small developing nations all enjoy generous Israeli aid from the government and from Israeli charities. 

The understanding is that, in return, they will always support Israel at international bodies of which they are members.

Israel insists that its motivation is predominantly humanitarian, but officials are up front to that it's also about positioning Israel in a better light.

Israel uses its considerable expertise in many arenas deftly.

At natural disasters, for example, Israeli rescue crews are often among the first on the ground. 

This targeted soft power diplomacy has helped Israel to secure votes, but also abstentions in its favour among many other nations too.

On this vote though, on Palestine, global opinion was overwhelmingly against Israel.

Israel's entry for Eurovision 2024, Eden Golan, has become one of the favourites among bookies to win this year's contest.

The 20-year-old singer climbed to second favourite from ninth after the semi-final, according to Eurovision World, a website that compiles betting odds from 15 of Europe's biggest bookmakers. 

It said Israel is seen as having a 22% chance of winning, behind Croatia's Baby Lasagna who was seen having a 41% chance.

It comes despite more than 10,000 people gathering in the host Swedish city of Malmo to stage a non-violent protest against Israel's participation in Saturday's final.

While the results of the two semi-finals are decided by viewers, in the final, audience votes will make up only half of the result, while juries of five music professionals in each participating country will make up the other half.

Earlier, the Israeli ambassador to the United Nations appeared on stage at a meeting of the UN General Assembly.

Whilst on stage in New York he shredded "a copy of the UN charter" - which was, in reality, three pieces of paper.

His actions came moments before the 193-member world body approved a resolution, giving Palestine new "rights and privileges" within the agency. 

Watch the full moment below. 

A first of its kind report by the US government is expected to conclude that Israel has not violated the terms of its use of US weapons, according to sources cited by the Associated Press. 

The report - known as the national security memorandum - was pushed by President Joe Biden's Democrats in Congress.

When agreed to back in February, defence and state departments were tasked to conduct "an assessment of any credible reports or allegations that such defence articles and, defence services, have been used in a manner not consistent with international law, including international humanitarian law".

They were also obliged to tell Congress if they thought Israel has acted to "arbitrarily to deny, restrict, or otherwise impede, directly or indirectly," delivery of any US-supported humanitarian aid into Gaza for starving civilians there.

It follows the US pausing a shipment of 3,500 bombs heading for Israel over concern they would be used in an offensive on Rafah.

The conclusions of the memorandum are expected to be sharply critical of Israel, but will not state that Israel violated terms of weapons agreements between the two countries. 

A senior Biden administration official said the full report is expected to be released later today, but declined to comment on its conclusions.

Palestinians in Rafah are still preparing to evacuate the eastern parts of the city amid the threat of an Israeli ground offensive. 

The United Nations estimates around 110,000 Palestinians have already fled in search of safety. 

In the latest pictures from the city, a tent camp where people are currently living is seen. 

In one of the images, people appear to have started to make piles of their belongings as they get ready to evacuate. 

South Africa has asked the International Court of Justice (ICJ) to order additional emergency measures against Israel over its attacks on the city of Rafah, the United Nations top court has said. 

It is part of the ongoing case brought by South Africa in January which accuses Israel of acts of genocide against Palestinians . 

The court - which is located in The Hague in the Netherlands - ordered Israel at the beginning of the year to take all measures within its power to prevent genocide.

South Africa wanted the ICJ to implement provisional measures on Israel which would "immediately suspend military operations in and against Gaza" - but the ICJ stopped short of that.

Any decision to impose provisional measures will be "hugely problematic" for the Israeli offensive, which Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu has vowed will continue until all hostages are returned and Hamas is destroyed.

Within the last few hours, the United Nations General Assembly has backed a bid put forward by Palestine for it to become a full agency member.

The vote passed by 143 votes to nine but 25 countries - including the UK - abstained.

In a post on X, the UK at the UN explained why it took the decision to abstain. 

"We are abstaining on this resolution because we believe that the first step towards achieving this goal is resolving the immediate crisis in Gaza," it said.

It said the fastest way to end the conflict is to secure a deal which releases all hostages and allows for a pause in fighting. 

The statement added that the UK remains firmly committed to a two-state solution and recognising a Palestinian state, including in the UN, and should be part of the process to achieving a sustainable ceasefire. 

The US ambassador to the UN Robert Wood gave similar reasons as to why America voted against the bid, saying its vote does not reflect opposition to Palestinian statehood.

"Instead, it is an acknowledgement that statehood will only come from a process that involves direct negotiations between the parties," he said.

What happens next?

For Palestine to become a full UN member, the 15-member UN Security Council will have to vote, and pass, the application.

At the last security council vote in March - which demanded a ceasefire in Gaza during the holy month of Ramadan - the US abstained.

The 14 other council members - including Russia, China and the UK - voted in favour.

For now, it remains unclear if or when the security council will vote on Palestine's membership bid.

Hamas has said it will hold talks with leaders of what it called "Palestinian resistance factions" to reconsider its negotiation strategy. 

It said the discussions need to be held due to Benjamin Netanyahu's behaviour, Israeli attacks on places in Rafah and the occupation of the city's border crossing with Egypt.

"Netanyahu and his government are using the negotiations as a cover to attack Rafah and occupy the crossing, and continue the war of extermination against our people, and they bear full responsibility for obstructing reaching an agreement," the statement said. 

Earlier this week, Hamas said they expressed agreement over a ceasefire deal following a phone call with Qatar's prime minister and Egypt's intelligence minister.

Israel later put an end to this, saying it would not accept the deal in its current form, a decision Hamas said today had brought things "back to square one". 

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