2003 gmc safari crank no start

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How To Troubleshoot A No Start (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L)

• By: Abraham Torres-Arredondo
• Created: 03 August 2011
• Updated: 26 March 2024
• Articl Id: 213

Testing a cranks but does not start condition on your GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L pick up, van or SUV is not that hard to do, if you have a solid diagnostic strategy. In this article I'll show you the basics of testing such a problem.

I'll also explain some of the basic causes of a no-start condition, since knowing this basic info will save you time and money since you'll know what to test and how to test it before replacing it.

Contents of this tutorial:

• Difference Between A No Crank And A No Start Condition .
• No Start Condition Basics .
• STEP 1: Checking For Spark .
• STEP 2: Checking For Fuel .
• STEP 3: Checking The PassLock Anti-Theft System For Problems .
• STEP 4: Checking Engine Mechanical Condition .
• No Start Summary .
• Related Test Articles .

Difference Between A No Crank And A No Start Condition

It's important to know that a no-crank and a no-start condition are not the same thing since this article only concentrates on testing a no-start condition.

In layman's terms, a no-start condition means that your vehicle's starter motor is cranking the engine but the engine is not starting. This condition is usually due to a failed fuel pump, a failed ignition coil, a failed ignition control module, a failed crank sensor, etc., which lets the engine crank (turn over) but not start.

A no-crank condition means that the engine is not turning over when you turn the key to crank the engine. The most common problem, that causes this condition is a failed starter motor. If your vehicle is suffering a no-crank condition, this tutorial may be a good starting point: How To Test The Starter Motor (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L) .

No Start Condition Basics

There are three very basic components that the engine, in your GM vehicle, needs to start and they are: air, fuel, and spark.

When your 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L GM vehicle cranks but does not start , it's because one of these components is missing from the mix.

Now, it sucks that your vehicle does not start but the cool thing is that you can isolate the area where the problem exists and then test specific components within that system. There are three main areas where the problem will reside in and that you should concentrate on when facing a no-start condition:

1.)  Ignition System

• The ignition system is the one responsible for creating and delivering spark. Without spark, the engine will crank but not start.
• The ignition system of the GM vehicles covered by this article use a distributor type system.
• Distributor cap.
• Crank sensor.
• Ignition module.
• Ignition coil.
• All of the above ignition system components can be tested.

2.)  Fuel System

• The fuel system is the one responsible with supplying the engine with fuel.
• The fuel pump can be tested to make sure it has really fried.

3.)  Engine Mechanical System

• The engine pistons and valves (and all the other related components like: timing chains, etc.) are the ones responsible for the induction of the fresh air the engine needs for the combustion process.
• Although rare, internal engine mechanical problems can and do cause no-start conditions.
• Blown head gasket.
• Blown engine.

4.)  PassLock Anti-Theft System

• This is the passive theft deterrent system that tells the PCM that the engine is being cranked with the correct key.
• When a malfunction occurs in one of the components that make up the Passlock system, the PCM disables the fuel injectors after the engine has started, causing the engine to stall after about 3 seconds of run time.
• Passlock system failures are a very, very common cause of no-start conditions.

OK, the list of possible things that can go wrong looks pretty long but it is rare to see (or have) two different components go bad from two separate systems at the same time.

The cool thing is, is that there is a diagnostic strategy that you can use to figure out exactly what's wrong with your particular no-start problem. Let's find out more about it in the next subheading.

STEP 1: Checking For Spark

The very first thing you need to do is check for spark and the presence of fuel. Both of these tests should be done simultaneously if possible. As mentioned before, usually one of them will be missing from the mix.

The idea behind checking for spark (with a spark tester) is to see if all of the 8 engine cylinders are getting spark.

• Check that the 8 cylinders are getting spark with a spark tester.
• The distributor cap is good.
• The ignition coil is good.
• The ignition control module is good.
• The crankshaft position sensor is good.
• The distributor cap could be bad.
• The ignition coil to distributor cap high tension wire could be bad.
• The ignition coil could be bad.
• The ignition control module could be bad.
• The crankshaft position sensor could be bad.

Testing the distributor cap, the ignition coil to distributor cap high tension wire, the ignition coil, the ICM, and the crank sensor can by done by the do it yourself-er (DIY'er) and the following tutorials will help you test the ignition system:

• How To Test A Misfire / No Spark No Start Condition (at: easyautodiagnostics.com ).
• How To Test The Crank Sensor (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L) .
• How To Test The Camshaft Position Sensor Diagnostic Trouble Codes: P0340, P0341 .
• 1995 PCM Pin Out Chart (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L GAS with A/T)
• 1993 Fuel Pump Circuit Tests (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L)
• Instrument Panel Fuse Box (1993 GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L)
• How To Test The Fuel Pump On GM TBI Fuel Systems
• 1993 PCM Pin Out Chart (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L GAS w/ 4L60-E)

Applies To:

Chevrolet Vehicles:

• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
• 1999, 2000, 2001
• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000
• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999
• 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004
• 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2007

GMC Vehicles:

• 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002

Isuzu Vehicles:

• 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000

Oldsmobile Vehicles:

• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001

Cadillac Vehicles:

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Help with diagnosing crank/no-start due to no spark

• Add to quote

You can take your ICM to your LAPS and have it tested as well, but if the wiring/connector/grounds are ok, then I would say you probably need a new one. Check your grounds, also check for pancake distributor disease and do a fireworks test on your coil/plug wires.  

Thanks so much for the reply! I have tested the power and grounds in the circuit @ ~500mA load so I am confident they are okay. I am definitely leaning toward this being the ICM not bringing the circuit to ground but will probably end up changing the coil as well since it is fairly inexpensive and on the same bracket.  

You can even buy them online as a set, complete with the bracket.  

Great, thanks! Will definitely be looking into that.  

that ignition conrol module controls the main coil if i recall....i got fooled thinking it was bad coil when i had my 92  

To follow up on this post, it did end up being a bad ICM that appears to have failed in the form of no longer being able to provide the coil with a path to ground. The green trace in the first image of the scope shows this perfectly. The coil still works just fine, and the car starts now but the coil will be preventatively replaced anyway. Thanks all!  

my 92 died on the highway with exact symptoms of a dying fuel pump..head scratcher....those ICM just wear out with heat cycles...i just consider a tune up item along with plugs wires etc...known failure part  

Glad to hear that you got it fixed and thanks for posting your solution!  

sweet ..back on the road is the goal here..  

yardbro said: Hello all, Have a 2004 Astro AWD that suddenly wouldn't start after being parked for about a day. I have determined the issue to be a no-spark condition. Fast-forward in the diag process, and I am having trouble determining whether or not this is an issue with the ICM or the ignition coil itself. I have confirmed that both crank, and cam signals are present, and that the PCM is sending the control signal to the ICM. The below capture shows the coil control signal present at the ICM on the orange trace, and the green trace is the coil driver wire at the ignition coil. If i am understanding the wiring diagram correctly, i would expect the green trace to be pulled to ground following the control signal on the orange trace. What i am seeing instead is battery voltage at all times and the oscillations follow battery voltage drop from the starter. View attachment 293129 If I disconnect the connector from the ICM and manually provide a path to ground on the coil driver wire I can get the coil to fire, although it is very weak and barely makes an airgap of a few milimeters. I also don't like the pattern of the current ramp which was measured on the battery feed wire to the coil itself. View attachment 293130 Sorry for this being long winded and fairly complex with the scope diagrams, but I would really appreciate if anyone could share some insight or past experience with diagnosing this problem. I have very little experience with this engine and GM systems in general. Thanks! Click to expand...

Rod's Trucks said: Those screen shots are impressive! What device are you using to display those patterns. I've been out of the automotive repair business for 30+ years. I do not recall having that sort of screen resolution back in 'The dark ages'. It would have made some diagnostic work much easier. Whatever it is, I am impressed. Rod J Issaquah, WA Click to expand...

SainT said: Good ICM will generate enough magnetic force to achieve spikes after it releases primary coil up to +300 +350 Volts Is it safe to your equipment? Click to expand...

I looked at the Autel Maxiscope. There seems ti be many with the 'Maxi' label. Can you give me a model number, or a more specific name? I have multiple oscilloscopes, but they are not very suitable for automotive use. My old HeathKit Ignition scope was never made for electronic ignitions, but still does provide some insight. I've been out of the automotive repair business for over thirty years. Fuel injection and electronic ignitions were just becoming popular back then. A LOT has changed for the better, with respect to reliability and engine life. But when something fails, your average tinkered is severely handicapped as far as diagnostics are concerned. Thanks  

Rod's Trucks said: I looked at the Autel Maxiscope. There seems ti be many with the 'Maxi' label. Can you give me a model number, or a more specific name? I have multiple oscilloscopes, but they are not very suitable for automotive use. My old HeathKit Ignition scope was never made for electronic ignitions, but still does provide some insight. I've been out of the automotive repair business for over thirty years. Fuel injection and electronic ignitions were just becoming popular back then. A LOT has changed for the better, with respect to reliability and engine life. But when something fails, your average tinkered is severely handicapped as far as diagnostics are concerned. Thanks Click to expand...

I bought from aliexpress cheap portable oscilloscope with li battery inside It shares same connector as my home based stationary oscilloscope -so I can use same probes It has only 1 channel but for most situations its enough Very happy not to bring big one with me  

What the minimum Mhz does the portable scope need to be use on the van. Where would a person connect the scope to. What parts of the system that can be monitored with a scope.  

gwd said: What the minimum Mhz does the portable scope need to be use on the van. Click to expand...

gwd said: What parts of the system that can be monitored with a scope. Click to expand...

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