abkhazia travel

How to travel to Abkhazia (Tips + 6-day itinerary)

By Joan Torres 34 Comments Last updated on April 24, 2024

I was in no man’s land, walking the couple of kilometers that separate Georgia from Abkhazia, still thinking about the last thing that the Georgian officer told me:

Don’t trust Abkhazians – He said after handing my passport back.

It wasn’t the first time I had crossed a non-friendly border but this was the first time I heard an immigration officer saying something like that.

I was getting closer to the Abkhazian border and, as soon as I arrived and said hello to everybody with a big smile, the Abkhazian officer told me:

This bottle of water is not allowed here. Remove the label. 

Yes, in effect, my water had a label written in Georgian, and Georgian-related things are not allowed in Abkhazia.

Shit… That was pretty intense.

Things were about to get very interesting and I couldn’t be more excited to be there.

Welcome to the unrecognized Republic of Abkhazia.

This guide contains everything you need to know to travel to Abkhazia , including tips and a 6-day itinerary

Georgia is a complicated country and, in order to make the most out of your visit, I recommend you read 1 or 2 books before your trip. Read: The best books on Georgia country

In this travel guide to Abkhazia you will find:

Table of Contents

• Introduction
• How to get a visa
• How to travel from Georgia
• Is it safe?
• Travel Insurance
• Money and budget
• Places to visit
• More Information

our recommended travel insurance for Abkhazia

IATI Insurance is one of the very few that covers travel in an unrecognized territory like Abkhazia, but you must select ”GEORGIA’ ‘.

Introduction to visiting the Republic of Abkhazia

Important – Before you read, please note that I don’t intend to get into politics. Seriously, I am not on any side but I am just a traveler who wants to show the beauty of Abkhazia in the same way that I have been showing other places in Georgia. It is not my business to claim whether Abkhazia is a republic or not and if I say it, it is because this is how Abkhazians say it, not because I care about it. I don’t care who is right but I just want to show the world what my eyes saw from a traveling perspective.

In 1992, after the Soviet Union’s dissolution,  Georgia was planning to abolish the Soviet-era constitution and restoring the 1921 Constitution of the Democratic Republic of Georgia.

As a response, in fear of losing their autonomy in favor of Georgia, Abkhazia declared independence  unilaterally.

As a consequence, the Georgian army invaded Abkhazia, which turned into a bloody war but, with the help of different Caucasian militias from the south of Russia, Georgia was defeated by Abkhazia.

Abkhazia was in the hands of the Abkhazians, and the ethnic Georgians, who were nearly half of the total population, were either killed or forced to flee the country and that is the reason why there are so many abandoned buildings.

Don’t forget to read my travel guide to Tbilisi , which also includes off the beaten track things to do

After a couple of years, Abkhazia was self-proclaimed an independent Republic.

However, nobody in the international community recognized it, so Abkhazia went through a long period of autarchic darkness.

It was only in 2008, after the Georgian-Russian war , that Russia recognized it as a country and decided to back them up economically, in exchange for military presence, among other things I believe.

Today, it is only recognized by a small bunch of countries which, besides Russia, includes Venezuela, Nicaragua, Syria and a few Pacific Islands.

The flags from these countries are waving in the center of the city.

As I said, I don’t want to enter into politics but, regardless of whether they have the right to be independent or not, from a traveling perspective, traveling to Abkhazia feels like being in a different country :

There is a border, you need a country visa, they use the Russian Rubles, cars have an Abkhazian license place, the architecture is different and, as per the people, the culture is slightly different and they speak a distinct language named Abkazh, a Caucasian language that has nothing to do with Georgian.

Abkhazia is, seriously, an amazing destination you can’t miss.

Here you can check more unrecognized countries I visited .

🪪 How to get a visa to Abkhazia

Many travelers seem to be particularly overwhelmed about getting a visa to visit Abkhazia, but you just need to make an easy online application and cross an easy border, that’s it.

You can apply through the official website . Just fill out the application and send them a hard copy of your passport, as stated. You don’t need to pay anything, for now.

After 5 working days, they will email you a security clearance which you need to show at the border. Remember to print several copies, as either Georgian, Russian or Abkhazian authorities may keep one.

Important – The security clearance is not a visa but just the key to enter Abkhazia. Once you are in Abkhazia, you need to pick up your visa at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Sukhumi , within 2-3 days of your arrival. The visa price depends on the length of your stay: I stayed 1 week and paid 350RB (5USD). By the way, you can pay by credit card. This is the location: 42.999895, 41.018142.

How to travel to Abkhazia from Georgia

You first need to take a train to a border city named Zugdidi .

From Tbilisi , there is a night train and morning one. The morning train leaves at 8am and arrives at 1:45pm, whereas the night train arrives at 6-7am.

If you come in the morning, the border will be less busy but it doesn’t open until 8-10am, so you may have to wait for a bit.

Buy your tickets a few days in advance. I bought them online on matarebeli.ge , but you can also get them at the station in Tbilisi.

The train journey to Zugdidi is a very touristic route, as it is the main getaway to Mestia, so the train is packed with tourists, but nobody was traveling to Abkhazia other than me.

The border is less than 10km away. I went to the main bus station in Zugdidi and didn’t find a marshrutka (but there should be one because I took it on the way back), so I jumped into a taxi and paid 8GEL (1.80USD).

You need to tell the guy granitsa , which means border in Russian.

The border to enter to Abkhazia is divided into 4 stages:

Georgian border – It took me 20 minutes. They don’t stamp your passport because, in their eyes, you aren’t leaving Georgia.

A few kilometers of no man’s land – You need to walk 2 or 3km and cross the bridge that goes over the Enguri river.

Abkhazian border – It took me 30 minutes.

Russian checkpoint –  Despite not even being their country, the Russians authorities are the most annoying. It took me two hours to cross it, not only because it was slower but because they took me to a different room and ask loads of questions about my previous trip to Iran .

After the Russian checkpoint, congratulations.

You are officially in the unrecognized Republic of Abkhazia.

If you crossed in the morning, you will find marshrutkas that go straight to Sukhumi.

Otherwise, you will first need to go to Gale (50RB) and then take a second marshrutka to Sukhumi (200RB).

Important information for those coming from Russia – The Russian border is open but you can’t enter from Russia and leave through Georgia, basically because Georgia doesn’t recognize that border, so you won’t be allowed to get in. On the other hand, if you enter Abkhazia through Georgia, you are technically allowed to enter Russia (as long as you have a valid visa) but, if you ever try to come back to Georgia, you may be banned from entering the country or pay a fine. 

⚠️ Is it safe to travel to Abkhazia?

Tell any Georgian that you want to travel to Abkhazia and they will freak out and tell you that you are completely nuts.

Their opinion is, of course, a little bit biased but we can’t forget that the region is well-known for its crime, especially the southern part, close to the border with Zugdidi, around Gale.

I actually know two cases of people who got robbed there in summer 2018. One was an acquaintance of me and the other was the guys from Kathmandu and Beyond . Read their story here .

The south of Abkhazia used to have the largest population of Georgians and, since all of them left, here you find more abandoned buildings than anywhere else, so robbing tourists is a way to fight their misery.

Don’t be afraid of visiting the south though.

You can go there and explore the different towns during the day, no problem, but if you decide to explore some of the abandoned factories outside, go with a local or a big group.

The rest of the country (my suggested itinerary), however, is safe and everybody is friendly and kind. I remember sitting in a café for breakfast when some random people that were next to me paid for my meal, and I had barely talked to them.

There is no Consulate representation

On the other hand, remember that, in Abkhazia, there is no embassy representation, so if you get into trouble, losing your passport, for example, I don’t know what you could do. Just be aware of this.

🚑 Travel Insurance for Abkhazia

There are no embassies in Abkhazia so, if the unlikely happened to you, better to have proper insurance.

The problem is that most companies won’t cover travel in Abkhazia because it is an unrecognized territory.

The one which does is IATI Insurance , and I recommend it for the following reasons:

• All types of plans: from families to backpackers
• If you select Georgia (or Europe), you will be covered for travel in Abkhazia.
• You can be covered for up to 1 month
• Covers senior citizens too
• The readers of this blog can get an exclusive 5% discount .

💰 Important information about money when you travel in Abkhazia

Currency – They use the Russian Ruble.

Don’t bring Georgian Laris – Except in Gale, you won’t be able to exchange your Laris, so it is better to bring Rubles. You can get them anywhere in Tbilisi .

ATMs – Unlike what you may read in other blogs, most ATMs do accept international credit cards.

How much does it cost to travel to Abkhazia? – The food in Abkhazia is substantially more expensive than Georgia but accommodation is very cheap:

• Breakfast – 300RB
• Plate of khinkalis – 250RB
• Beer – 100RB
• Coffee – 80RB
• Budget accommodation – From 6USD for a private room

📍 Places to visit in Abkhazia – 6-day itinerary

The reason for traveling to Abkhazia is not only political but the country is actually beautiful.

In fact, some Georgians claim that Abkhazia is the most beautiful part of Georgia, one of the reasons why it being taken from them is so painful.

You should also know that, during the Soviet Union, Abkhazia was a major touristic destination for Russians and other people from the Soviet Union and, if Abkhazia had not gotten its independence, today it would be the top resort destination in Georgia , not Batumi.

Map of the places to visit in Abkhazia

Day 1, 2 – Sukhumi

Sukhumi is awesome and, even if you only had 2 days to travel to Abkhazia, I still recommend you come and visit it.

Sukhumi is the capital of Abkhazia, a city that, somehow, tries to be cool among all the abandoned buildings and the Soviet-era stuff.

The center of the city is dominated by the abandoned Parliament , which in the past, used to be occupied by the Georgian authorities and, instead of re-occupying it, the Abkhazians left it there.

Read: A guide to visiting the unrecognized Republic of Transnistria

It is the most impressive abandoned building I saw when I visited Abkhazia and you can actually hang around for as long as you want.

Otherwise, besides going in search of more abandoned buildings (they are everywhere, really), the promenade is pretty cool, as it has a lot of Soviet stuff, as well as a lot of local life.

The background of Sukhumi is dominated by some mountains which you can go up to check the views, visit Bagrat fortress and some abandoned monuments.

If you like offbeat, Soviet stuff, you will love these 7 very weird things to do in Belarus

Where to stay in Sukhumi

Budget Guest House – Roza Guest House – A really good guest house with a very big garden. The owners are a young family which is super nice. I really enjoyed my time here.

Nicer – Guest House GUMA – Also a guest house but it has a better location and it is of a higher quality.

Day 3 – New Athos

With nearly 1700 years of history, New Athos is the prettiest coastal town in Abkhazia, with blue-turquoise water and dense green forest that grows near the edge of the water.

New Athos is an actual touristic town and you are likely to see loads of Russian tourists around, but many of them are pretty cool, as New Athos is sort of an alternative destination for the average Russian tourist.

In New Athos, you must climb up to the Greek fortress (200RB) on the top of the mountain, to check some incredible views of the bay.

Moreover, the New Athos Monastery is one of the prettiest I have seen recently, really. It was built by monks in the 19th century and is a real blessing to your eyeballs.

Apparently, there is also a very impressive cave but I didn’t have time to go there.

How to get to New Athos from Sukhumi

You can easily reach New Athos on a day trip from Sukhumi and marshrutkas run from the main bus station in Sukhumi. It costs 70RB.

Day 4 – Gagra

Gagra is a very touristic beach town.

I didn’t like it, basically because I grew up in a very similar place in Catalonia, so there was nothing new for me and I would have preferred to have this day to explore the area around Gale.

It is a place to just chill at the beach and eat at the many promenade restaurants so, for solo travelers, it can get a bit boring, especially because there are no people to hang out with, basically because nobody speaks English.

What is interesting about it, however, is that this is the warmest town in the entire Black Sea coastline and apparently, in winter, the temperature is high enough to swim, so Gagra has always been a popular getaway for Russians escaping from their utterly freezing weather.

This is the reason why you see so many strange plants such as exotic cactus and things like that, which is very weird, taking into account that we are at the very doors of the Great Caucasus .

Ah, almost forgot! There is an abandoned Music Club which is worth checking out. Right here: 43.290811, 40.260667 .

How to get to Gargra from Sukhumi

Marshrutkas cost 130RB and it takes 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Where to stay in Gagra

Budget Guest House – Sunset Guest House – Really cool place. For budget travelers, look no further.

Nicer – Guest House Oniks – Similar concept to the previous but it has higher standards.

Day 5, 6 – Camping at Lake Ritsa

Who would ever say that, at the very shores of this lake, Stalin himself used to spend his holidays in his personal dacha (Russian summer house).

Lake Ritsa was, in fact, a very popular spot for the Soviet elite and, today, you can still visit Stalin’s dacha  and, for a few rubles, they will show you the bed where he used to sleep, the toilet where he used to shit and even his personal boat.

The tour is in Russian and nobody speaks English but it was fun enough.

Stalin’s dacha  is on the opposite side of the main touristic part of the lake.

The lake is actually very touristic but this shouldn’t pull you out from coming here because it is pretty big and, like always, people just go to certain areas of the lake.

The place we camped was totally empty, so we had the place for ourselves.

On the second day, we trekked to what is called the Small Ritsa, which is a smaller version of the main lake. It is a half-day trek and we only saw one other group of trekkers.

Alternatively, there are many roads and trails around the lake waiting to be explored.

How to get to Lake Ritsa from Sukhumi

There is no public transportation, so you need to take a taxi or hitchhike.

I hitchhiked and got picked up by two young Russians who I camped with, so I was very lucky.

You can also book a tour from Sukhumi, which costs around 10USD, but I wouldn’t go there by bus, as you will only have a few hours to enjoy the most touristic part of the lake, without time to go to the other side or even trek to the small Ritsa.

Where to stay in Ritsa Lake

We camped but, if you don’t have a tent, there are a few hotels around, none of them budget though.

Going back to Georgia

From Lake Ritsa, you can easily travel to Tbilisi on the same day.

I left the lake at around 1pm, after coming back from Small Ritsa and my Russian friends dropped me off in New Athos, from where I took a marshrutka and the driver dropped on the main road between Sukhumi and the border.

I waited for a lift, crossed the border in just a few minutes and, once in Zugdidi, I took a marshrutka to Tbilisi. I think I arrived around 1am.

❗ More information for traveling to Abkhazia

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

More Travel Guides to Georgia

• Travel Guide to Kakheti
• Travel Guide to Kazbegi
• Tbilisi Travel Guide
• Georgia Itinerary
• Best Books on Georgia
• Trekking Guide to Georgia
• Georgia Travel Guide

More Travel Guides to Other Unrecognized Countries

• Transnistria Travel Guide
• Somaliland Travel Guide
• Kosovo Travel Guide

34 comments

Hi Joan, the guide was very nice, however, I think there is a striking error right in the beginning. The referendum you speak about didnt take place in 1993 but in 1991 and, more importantly, Abkhazians didnt made up 53% of the population. They don’t even now, after the majority of the Georgian population have been expelled. Pls check this wiki link, you can find there the results of 1989 census. Where did you find the info that Abkhazians formed 53% of the population before the war?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demographics_of_Abkhazia

Hey Dato! Are you Georgian by the way? I met many Georgians with your very same name.

Thank you for your comment and correction. I have re-read the history and the final trigger for declaring independence was in 1992, when Georgia planned to abolish the Soviet Constitution and restore the old Constitution from 1921.

As per the % of Abkhazians, perhaps you are right. I just decided not to mention it, as different sources say different numbers and I am also not mentioning the referendum anymore 🙂

Also, one more thing – New Athos has a pretty impressive cave, its one of the most popular tourist spots in Abkhazia. Worth mentioning in the article

I didn’t go there, but I will mention at the end, thanks!

thanks for guidance, God Bless You always

I am from a country which requires a visa for traveling to Georgia and Abkhazia so my question is do i need a visa for Georgia and Abkhazia to travel to Abkhazia or i can just use the Abkhazian permit to travel to Georgia and than Abkhazia?

Hi Jay, from an immigration point of view, they act as 2 separate countries so their visas don’t complement each other in any way

I’d like to know the close time for the border in georgia side? Thanks.

I am not sure, but on the way back, I crossed at around 6pm and it was still open

interesting blog. do you know where i can get a map of abkhazia in the abkhazian language? preferably a wall map.

no idea man. Maybe you can find it on the internet, or in a shop in Sukhumi

Hi Joan, super informative. loved it. I am going to Tblisi in September. I doubt I can arrange a trip to Abkhazia but maybe in the future .who knows. Mutlu

Thanks, Mutlu, hope you can make it next time 🙂

No Georgians in Abkhazia? There are 50,000, many of them returnees. Most of the people crossing the Georgian Abkhazia ABL are Georgians.

@JOAN TORRES thank you for sharing very detailed and informative information. -after reading your blogs, We are Planing for Georgia and Abkhzia..

Hi Joan. Thanks for the info! Could you give some info about cell phone and internet service quality and cost in Abkhazia?

Hey Joan great article! Just wondering if you could shed some light about the safety there in terms of entering abandoned buildings? Have these been inspected by the authorities?

I’m also curious about Gagra – is it really a ghost town? Nobody works there or lives there? So are there restaurants and hotels there? No? I really want to see the abandoned buildings on Gagra. But am worried about the safety, and how safe the abandoned buildings are, especially in a deserted ghost town like Gagra. Please advise, if you don’t mind, thanks a lot!

Hi Melissa, the buildings aren’t inspected. There is obviously a risk but just apply common sense before getting in. I did enter some buildings which seemed safe but I am no expert anyways.

Gagra isn’t a ghost town but it is quite touristic, the most touristic spot in Abkhazia actually. There are some abandoned buildings, like in all the region, but the area close to the Georgian border is where you will find the most.

Hi, I’m not Georgian, but as of April, 2021, is the Georgian-Abkhazia border open? I hear from some people it may be closed right now but can’t find any information online.

Hi, I booked a trip for August 2021, but my Airbnb host in Abkhazia just informed me that the Georgia-Abkhazia border is officially closed. I also can’t find any information online. Still hoping he might be mistaken. Please let me know if anyone has attempted to cross the border recently. Thanks!

Hello Dani, I contacted a tour company to ask for the Abkhazia trip and they informed me that due to covid only Russian citizens can enter Abkhazia. Hope it helps.

I got the following email today when applying for an online visa: Good day! We inform you that due to the ongoing influenza epidemic, crossing of the state border is temporarily limited. Therefore, there will be no possibility to cross it. At the moment we do not accept any applications.

Sincerely, CD MFA RA.

— Consular Department Ministry of Foreign Affairs Republic of Abkhazia Sakharov St. 33, Sukhum, tel/fax: +7840-226-39-48 e-mail: [email protected] http://www.mfaapsny.org

Hi Joan, Thank you do much for posting this information about Abkhazia. There is conflicting information about the border crossing with Georgia being open. Do you have any update? I saw your article was updated on October 11 this year, but the last comment posted here says it’s clised. I’m not sure what the latest is. Thank you for taking the time to respond to my email. Yves Bouvie – Switzerkand

Hi Yves, I am not sure to be honest, currently trying to figure it out by myself too

I have applied for the visa and they said that the border is closed and don’t know when it will open again.

True, it’s closed

Hi Joan Very interesting guide, thank you. My question is, can one enter Abkhazia from Russia? While the border is closed and since you have to walk a few kilometres, why wouldn’t you enter from Russia? Basically I am not talking about now, I understand entering Russia itself is problematic but in peace time, normal time, wouldn’t be easier to enter Abkhazia from Russia? Thanks

Hi Dilshad! In normal times, it is possible but you have to get a double entry visa for Russia, since you’ll have to come back. The problem however was that there’s no double entry tourist visa for Russia but you had to get a business visa, which you could get through a travel agent.

Hi ! I have Ukrainian stamps in my passport (french passport) from 2022, 2023 and 2024. I did some humanitarian aid there during the war. Due to the ongoing conflict and the presence of russian troops in Abkhazia, would you still recommend me visiting or not ?

Hi Zac, we don’t have first hand experience on this but I don’t think that would be an issue.

Hi is it possible to visit Abkhazia right now, I am thinking of visiting soon but I am unsure if it is open. If it is could I enter from the Georgian side or do I have to go through the Russian side.

Very informative thank you! You have convinced me to take a short trip whilst I am in the caucuses in about a months time. Like the above comment I am wondering if it is still possible to enter from Georgia and go back to Georgia after. Any information will be greatly appreciated 🙂

Hi Coebz, between first with COVID and then the Ukraine war, entering Abkhazia has been super confusing lately. I am afraid I can’t give you the latest status.

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• How to Travel to Abkhazia in 2024; My Experience

If you’ve never heard of Abkhazia, don’t worry. Most people haven’t. Abkhazia is one of those ‘countries’ that isn’t officially a country, lost in the Caucasus between Russia and Georgia. If you followed my journey to every country in the world , you’ll know that from a technical standpoint the answer to ‘ how many countries in the world ‘ is 197. But that doesn’t tell the whole story. There are a handful of places that are  almost  countries, and Abkhazia is one of those.  I’ll explain more about it, and how to travel to Abkhazia below:

Table of contents

Is abkhazia a country, where is abkhazia, how to get to abkhazia from georgia:, how to get to abkhazia from russia:, abkhazia map, abkhazia visa from the russian side: , abkhazia visa from the georgia side:, is it safe to travel to abkhazia, things to do in abkhazia, border problems, getting to sukhumi, exploring sukhumi, suggest abkhazia itinerary (3-5 days), final thoughts on traveling to abkhazia, what other places are similar to abkhazia, final things to remember when traveling to abkhazia.

In short, no. Abkhazia is recognised internationally as part of Georgia. And Georgia considers it under military occupation by Russia. Abkhazia, however, has declared themselves independent after the war with Georgia in 1993. The UN denies acknowledgement categorically, and Russia does the opposite. But the only countries that recognise Abkhazia as an independent country are Russia, Venezuela, Nicaragua, Nauru, Syria and Vanuatu. An interesting group. 

In the Caucasus region. It’s on the east coast of the Black Sea. East of Turkey, and wedged between Georgia proper and Russia. 

How to Get to Abkhazia?

You can enter Abkhazia from both Russia and from Georgia. However, whichever country you enter from you MUST leave the country the same way. If you enter from Georgia to Abkhazia, you have to return to Georgia. You can’t go from Georgia, Abkhazia, to Russia. That’s illegal. And will result in denial, detention and possible imprisonment. 

From a travel perspective, because of the difficulties and cost of Russian visas, it’s MUCH easier to fly to Georgia, then go to Abkhazia, and return to Georgia. If you enter from Russia, you need a double-entry Russian visa (which can be a headache). However, if you’re on a trip to all disputed territories, which many people who visit Abkhazia are, then it makes sense on a map to also visit South Ossetia. South Ossetia can only be visited from the Russian side, so the best way, if you’re visiting both, is from Russia. So Russia to Abkhazia to Russia. Then to South Ossetia, and back to Russia. 

If you’re coming to Abkhazia from Georgia (as I did), then you need to get to the Georgian town of Zugdidi. From Zugdidi, take a taxi to Enguri bridge ($3, 20 minutes). From here the process:

The border officially opens at 8am, but no movement occurs until 10am (I had to wait for 2.5 hours). The Georgian police check your passport, and you walk across the bridge to the Abkhazian border point. The walk takes about 15 minutes, it’s about 1km. Here the Abkhazian police check your passport and the Abkhazia Visa (more on that below). All being well, you continue to the security check-point (I had a problem and was stuck here for 2 more hours). At the security point, there are often queues and bag checks. I waited another hour here, had my bags checked and was interviewed about why I was visiting Abkhazia. Quite intimidating, photos of Putin everywhere etc.

After that’s finished, you’re free! 5 minute walk to the next smattering of people. There you can either hop in a mini-van and wait for it to fill. It will take you to Sukhum/Sukhumi, the capital of Abkhazia. Or you can take a private taxi, in a rundown Russian car, for about $30 (2000 Rubles). Sukhumi is about 90km, and 90 minutes drive. Finally, your trip to Abkhazia can start!

If you’re coming to Abkhazia from Russia, then you need to get to the Russian city town of Sochi. It’s a large hub and has an international airport and a huge train station.  

This border crossing is much easier than the Georgia side, as Abkhazia is a common holiday destination for Russians. Just make sure you have your double- or multi-entry Russian Visa, and your Abkhazia Visa. From Russia, you can get your Abkhazia visa at the border now (Since 2017!). That’s super easy! Also, you can take an overnight train from Moscow, all the way to Abkhazia, which is pretty cool. If you don’t want to do that, fly to Sochi, you can take a bus from Sochi to Sukumi  (3 hours, 250km).

The Abkhazia Map from Google Maps above is easier to see ‘where’ Abkhazia is on a global. But the Abkhazia Map below shows where Abkhazia is in relation to Georgia, Russia and South Ossetia. 

Abkhazia Visa; How to get it?

EVERYONE needs a visa for Abkhazia. But it depends on which side you’re entering from as to how difficult it is.

Super easy. Show up at the Russia/Abkhazia border, and go to a small office, pay for the visa, and it’s issued there and then (no stamp in your passport, just a piece of paper). Just note, you DO NEED a Russian double or multi-entry. Without that, they won’t let you into Abkhazia!

You need to organise your visa in advance, via email. It took weeks and weeks for mine, so do it a couple of months in advance. My mum did hers, and they replied within a day. But give yourself time. You need to organise it through the official channel HERE . This is their email: [email protected]. The visa is free, and all done electronically.

Yes, is the short answer. I took my mum on holiday here, so that should say it’s pretty safe (although I also took her to Afghanistan on holiday once , so maybe not!). Historically, there has been skirmished between Russian and Georgian forces, and there are some minefields in the outskirts of the country, but if you’re in Sukhumi, yes it’s safe. Keep your passport, and visas with you at all times, and be polite and friendly to all security and police forces.

Make sure your travel insurance covers you for strange places. Mine does, and it’s only $9 a week!

Abkhazia is beautiful. It’s in the Caucasus, and everywhere in that region is beautiful. Georgia, Azerbaijan , Armenia, and the opportunity to climb Mount Elbrus (Europe’s highest mountain) are all in the Caucasus. Gorgeous mountain ranges, lakes, and that friendly mountain-people vibe. So, of course, there are some fun things to do in Abkhazia. Check them out:

Spent a couple of days in the Capital, Sukhumi

Lake ritsa; the most popular spot in the country. , swim in the black sea; both gagra and sukhumi have beaches on the black sea, urban exploring in the abandoned buildings; a fascinating reflection on the recent turmoil in abkhazia, gagra; the main ‘tourist’ town in abkhazia, catering for russian tourists, the ancient town of new athos; the 3rd most famous town in abkhazia, home to a famous monastery and fortress, visit the deepest cave in the world – krubera cave organised through day tours from gagra or sukhumi.

Traveling in Abkhazia; My Personal Experience

I had finished my journey to every country in the world. But there were still places I hadn’t visited, and I felt I was cheating myself. So I went about fixing that – Greenland , Faroe Islands , French Polynesia , South Ossetia. And of course Abkhazia. Georgia is honestly one of the coolest countries in the world to travel (and to live to be honest). Friendly, beautiful, historic, cool, and cheap. I had traveled there before en route to every country, but I wanted to visit Abkhazia. And the easiest way is via Georgia. So I asked my mum did she want to join me to beautiful Georgia (her 50th country!) and then onto the disputed territory of Abkhazia. YES! She loves all that crazy travel, and joined me to Yemen , Syria , and Iraq since!

So we flew to Tbilisi, and spent a few days in Georgia’s Capital. On day 1, we went to the train station and booked 2 tickets on the 2nd class sleeper train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi. We left around 8pm a couple of days later, and pulled into Zugdidi early, around 6am the following morning. I had already organised our visas to Abkhazia a month or so ago, so I wasn’t expecting any problems. I was wrong. 

Rejected at the border

First of all, the border opens at 8am officially. We were there around 7am. But there was no movement until 10am. Not a great start, but when it did open, we finally got the all-clear from the Georgian side and walked the 20 or 30 minutes across the bridge to the Abkhazian border point. Another wait. We submitted our passports and waited for about an hour. My mum got hers back, with permission to enter Abkhazia.

Mine? Rejected! WTF? All my paperwork was correct, but they rejected me for no reason. Odd. I kicked up a bit of a friendly-fuss, explaining I can’t let my 70yo mother go without me blah blah. No luck. I begged, pleaded and waiting. 2 more hours passed. I resorted to Instagram, asking anyone for help. Suddenly there was movement. Someone had contacted immigration and granted me additional permission. Strange, but ecstatic, we went. 

Another couple of hundred metres and we joined another queue in a military compound. They took our backpacks from us and told us to join another queue. Bagless, and another 30 minutes or so later, we were summoned to a military bunker. My mum and I were ordered to sit down and wait for the commander. HUGE posters of Putin adorned every corner, mini Russian flag sat on top of the 70s-syle desk, and all the olive-green document cabinets.

Eventually, someone came in to interview us, along with 2 soldiers. “Why are you visiting Abkhazia”. Cold, Russian accent. “Why were you in Georgia”. “Where will you go next”. “Why do you have so many stamps in your passport”. “Why were you in Nigeria, Uzbekistan, Angola, Paraguay”. I explained about my life, and he started to warm. He found out we were Irish, joked about whiskey, and my mum and him shared stories about their love for James Joyce. He completely changed, “Welcome to Abkhazia, do this an that and this and that, ENJOY”. Our bags were returned to is and off we went.

We had nothing booked. No transport, no activities, no accommodation. And no way to get to Sukhumi. So there we were with our bags back, and our passports back, and no idea what to do next. I just started walking away from immigration, hoping someone could give us a lift to the city. We saw a marshrutka (old school Russian minivans) and asked where they were going. Sukhumi. Leaving now. $5 (in Rubles).

Ok, and we hopped in. No movement. Wait a little longer. Ask him when we’re leaving. Now. No movement. I asked for my money back and then went to speak to an old Russian guy. I don’t speak Russian of course, and nor he English. But withdrawing imaginary numbers on our palms, we negotiated 1500 Rubles ($25) and he’d take us right now to Sukhumi. And so he did, about 90 minutes we pulled in and found a hotel.

Like Russia 50 years ago

The next 3 days we spent in Sukhumi. Exploring the city, reading and learning about the recent Russia-Georgia war. Visiting the abandoned buildings. Walking the promenade, sampling the local food, and plenty of the local beers and wine. I love traveling in places like this, and sharing these crazy experiences with my mum makes it even better.

The thing that struck me most about Sukhumi, aside from the war-torn buildings, was how ‘Russian’ it felt. Like Russia, but 50 years ago. It’s had to explain. But local fairground rides, like from the 50s or 60s. Cotton candy stalls, fairground games. And it was cheap, super cheap. I had such a fun time with my mum, but I had a flight booked out of Tbilisi, Georgia to go to the Faroe Islands, which meant we only had 3 nights. That meant no Lake Ritsa, and no Gagra. 

On day 2, I went to the police station to register that we were there. As soon as my mum and I sat down outside the office. A man summons us in. “Ah, you must be Mr Ward”, “Some problems at the border I hear?”. “You have a friend who helped, you owe him a thanks”. One stamp, conversation over. A very weird experience that one!

Next time! We didn’t use a guide for our time in Sukhumi, but the handful of people who speak English are only more than happy to come and talk with you. It’s a lovely atmosphere. And if you want to visit any of the main sites (Lake Ritsa, Gagra, or New Athos), there are plenty of Russian tour companies that’ll take you for the day. Don’t expect English speaking guides though!

And with that, we headed back to Zugdidi. Leaving Abkhazia is much easier than entering. A quick passport check and you’re on your way. We took the day train from Zugdidi back to Tbilisi, getting into Tbilisi late, and checking into your hotel 4 days after we left. Such a fun trip. Can’t wait to go back and explore the rest of Abkhazia (And the rest of Georgia for that matter!)

When I return to Abkhazia (I might actually organise a OneStep4Ward trip there next year to be honest, it’s a cool place), this is the itinerary I’ll use for sure. 

DAY 0: Night train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi. 

DAY 1: Arrive at the border, go through the border crossing stuff, and connect to Sukhumi around 3pm. Evening dinner on the coast of the Black Sea.

DAY 2: Explore Sukhumi, and the abandoned buildings. Sleep in Sukhumi

DAY 3: Day trip to New Athos (Akhali Atoni) and the monastery. Sleep in Sukhumi.

DAY 4: Connect to Gagra. Gagra is a beach resort, so get a nice hotel and swim in the Black Sea. Sample the local beers, and relax.

DAY 5: Lake Ritsa Day-trip (or multi-day trip if you want to camp and hike). These trips are easily organised in Gagra.

DAY 6, or 7: Connect back to Zugdidi in Georgia.

This is  real travel. I often remark how it’s difficult to find true travel experiences in the era of Instagram, YouTube and travel blogs (sorry!). But if you look hard enough, it’s still possible. And Abkhazia is certainly that. Taking a night train from Tbilisi to the border, crossing into a disputed territory. Spending a few days in a place where guidebooks, and google, doesn’t help so much. It’s wonderful. Like traveling 30 years ago. So yes, I couldn’t recommend traveling to Abkhazia highly enough. Do it! 

In terms of places that are almost countries, but not quite. There are a few. Here they are:

• South Ossetia
• Western Sahara (Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic)
• Transnistria
• Nagorno-Karabakh (  Republic of Artsakh )
• Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus
• Northern Region of Iraq

Then there are also countries who have vied for independence but due to political pressures, have been denied for one reason or another. Other places that are ‘almost’ countries, but aren’t, are:

• Faroe Islands
• French Guiana
• Cook Islands
• You need Georgian Lari for the Georgia side and Russian Rubles for the Abkhazia side
• Be prepared to get interviewed quite harshly when entering Abkhazia, and don’t mention anything about politics, Georgia ‘owning’ Abkhazia etc. 
• Make sure you have your Abkhazian visa before you attempt to cross

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Lykhny village

It's the largest and the oldest (more than a thousand years old) village of Abkhazia which can boast of ruins of a 6th-7th century Christian temple (located on ​​the outskirts of the village), princes palace and Church of the Assumption of Our Lady. Lykhny village is located 5   km (3   mi) north of the city Gudaut.

• Glade Lyhnashta , village Lykhny ( In the center of the village ). Abkhazians performed nationwide gatherings, annual equestrian events, national celebration here from the old times. There is also a picturesque ruins of the palace of the ruling princes of Abkhazia Chachba-Shervashidze. Palace was founded in the 11th century and then destroyed in 1866.  
• Church of the Assumption of Our Lady , village Lykhny ( Next to the glade ). Acting church. Built in the 14th century. You can see there fragments of frescoes of the 14th century, tomb of the last ruler of Abkhazia - Prince George Chachba-Shervashidze (died 1818) before it became part of the Russian Empire in 1810.  

Kaman village

Christian legend states that the holy martyr Basiliscus (308 AD) and St. John Chrysostom (407 AD) died and were buried in this village. Here you can find the ruins of early medieval Christian church, the tomb of the holy martyr Basiliscus, Orthodox Monastery (operating since 2002). Kaman village located 15   km (9   mi) from the city of Sukhumi.

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Abkhazia information

Need inspiration have a look at our new 'tried and tested' review page we have personally visited and experienced many places to help you make a decision on what to do during your visit. click the button below., what to see & do in abkhazia.

Lake Ritsa is one of the deepest lakes in the Caucasus. Surrounded by mountains with heights of up to 3,500m, lake Ritsa has been one of the most popular tourist attractions in Abkhazia for generations. Joseph Stalin frequently visited the lake, and fell in love with Ritsa so much that he had a Summer house built on the banks, which still stands today. The road to Ritsa is breath-taking, so you may find yourself stopping often to admire the beauty of the waterfalls, mountains, and rivers along the way. Relax on the banks, take a swim in the warm Summer waters, or hike in the Ritsa nature reserve - Lake Ritsa is the perfect place to unwind and experience the incredible nature of Abkhazia. We offer tours to Lake Ritsa. For more information, please visit the Tours page.

New Athos Monastery

Situated in the Gudauta region of Abkhazia, New Athos monastery has seen many days. Built in 1875, the monastery has been used for a lot more than a religious sanctuary - including being used as a storage facility, tourist base, hospital and museum. However in 1994, after the end of the war, the monastery has since resumed all religious practice. New Athos can be seen from miles away due to the stunning architecture and mountain location. While at New Athos you may want to explore the surrounding caves, admire the incredible sea views from the mountain, or wander around the neighboring ancient churches and their beautiful gardens. Access to New Athos is very easy, with a central location in Gudauta, you can walk or take a taxi to the monastery. For a guided trip to New Athos, visit our Tours page.

Anacopia Fortress

Built during the 2nd to 4th centuries AD, Anacopia was the former capital of Abkhazia. Inside the fortress walls you will find the ancient priest's alter, and religious icons, as well as delicate signs of Abkhazia's history. An ancient burial ground in Anacopia was also discovered, containing human remains, metal swords and daggers. In this famous fortress, previous Abkhazian rulers have successfully defended their land, defeating huge armies such as the Arabs in the 8th century. Perhaps you want to explore the fortress walls and go back in time to when armies and empires battled over lands, and with the breath-taking views of the Black Sea and Caucasian mountains surrounding the fortress, it's a place that will make you feel truly inspired by Abkhazia. The fortress is a short hike up Mount Apsara, and is the perfect place to discover Abkhazia's incredible history and inspiring landscape.

Sukhum (Akwa)

The beautiful capital city of Abkhazia brings together all elements of Abkhazia - from history to nature, to culture and romance. In Sukhum, there is a lot to see and do. Wander through the Botanical garden created in 1840, featuring more than 4,500 species of plants and tropical flora. Relax on the pebbled beaches and dine in the many traditional restaurants after exploring the old buildings lost in time. Be amazed by Abkhazian dance companies as they perform in Sukhum's charming theatres. Dive into history by visiting Sukhum's Roman walls, ancient bridges and spectacular castles. With roads lined with palm trees and buildings standing in various styles, Sukhum is the place to experience Abkhazia's past, present, and unrolling future. Trains are regular from Sochi, passing along the coastline through North Abkhazia. Buses and taxis run from Sukhum between other Abkhazian towns and cities. There are many hotels and guesthouses to suit a range of needs, from grand, beach-front hotels, to quaint local guesthouses. Many hotels offer excursions in Sukhum, such as boat trips, diving, and there are regular jeep tours from Sukhum to the surrounding mountains.

Gagra is often described as the Russian Riviera because it has been the favourite Summer destination for generations of Russians. Gagra hosts the most spectacular landscapes in Abkhazia, because the mountains and beach sit side by side. There are 2 districts in Gagra, "Old Gagra," and "New Gagra." You will find buildings lost in time and dressed in ivy in Old Gagra, along with beautiful parks and gardens. New Gagra features traditional restaurants, beach resorts and romantic promenades. Gagra is decorated with palm trees and pebble beaches, but a 10 minute drive is all it takes until you are surrounded by rolling mountains. Breathing will be easy in Gagra's fresh air, but the stunning contrasts of nature will soon take your breath away. Taste Gagra's famous "Psou" wine while chatting to friendly locals on the beach. Hotels, guesthouses and apartments are readily available in Gagra. Excursions around the country are easy to find, with tours going directly to Lake Ritsa, Blue Lake, and Psou river, as well as jeep tours in the mountains.

Blue Lake has a mysterious story about how it came to exist; A wise, old priest lived in a cave where Blue Lake is now situated. He was a kind man, with beautiful blue eyes, and knew everything about hunting in the area, so was often approached by hunters looking for advice. In return, the hunters would give the priest their hunted skins and antlers. One day, a group of rogue hunters came to the old man asking for a place to sleep. The old man gave them his own bed, made from the skins and furs. The hunters were amazed by the collection and decided to steal them. Before leaving, they murdered the old man, and packed the treasures into their bags. But out of nowhere a huge flood swept into the cave, trapping the thieves and forming the Blue Lake. Thus, the colour of the lake is from the old man, who lies at the bottom of the lake with his eyes open. Blue Lake is on the road to Lake Ritsa, and most tour guides will stop here during the journey. A great place to take creative pictures using the bear and traditional Abkhazian clothes, and get up close to the dozens of beautiful peacocks who nest by the water's edge.

Wine Tasting

Abkhazia is one of the oldest wine producing regions in the world, and you can taste the experience and history in each glass. Handmade from grapes native to Abkhazia, Abkhazian wine comes in red and white, from sweet and strong, to vintage and fresh. Wine is served during most meals in restaurants, and your hosts will be more than glad to find a wine that suits your palate. Abkhazian's are very proud of their wine, with many brands named after local places or Abkhazian words. "Amra" - a popular girl's name and Abkhazian word for "sun," "Psou" - the Abkhazian river north of Gagra, and "Apsny" - the word for "Abkhazia."       Wine is extremely cheap yet award winning quality, so perhaps you might want to buy several bottles and relax on the beach, watching the sunset and stars. If you're feeling more active, you could create a small picnic with wine for your trip to Lake Ritsa or Anacopia Fortress, to fully immerse yourself in Abkhazian life. Buying wine is easy, and available from most markets and stores. Do not be afraid to ask if you can taste the wine from the locals - they will be very excited to show you the tastes of their country

During Summer, the Black Sea is the perfect temperature to take a swim. There are also many excursions and activities available, and this partly because Abkhazia has the cleanest area of the entire Black Sea. Whether you fancy a short snorkel trip, or a more advanced diving experience, there are a lot of unique, native fish and coral to discover. Abkhazia's dolphins are known to be particularly friendly, often swimming in between families in the shallow areas and amongst boats out in the deep. Don't want to get wet? Most hotels in Gagra provide boat trips, from relaxing yacht trips with on-board dining and sunset schedules, to more adventurous do-it-yourself paddle boats and jet skis. The locals on the beach will be happy to direct you to the perfect activity according to budget and theme, or you can arrange your activities through your hotel or guesthouse

To combine as many elements of your trip in one place, Pitsunda is a great town to visit. One of the flattest parts of Abkhazia, the historic town was founded in the 5th century. With quiet beaches, a beautiful lake and ever-green forests, Pitsunda is a great place to slowly unwind in Abkhazia's fresh air. Visit Pitsunda's Cathedral built in the 10th century and be inspired by the pristine paintings on the ceiling. For a more active excursion, wander around the famous pine grove or take a hike up the mountains to see a spectacular view of the town and sea below. Located in the Gagra region but with fewer tourists and much more breathing space between the mountains and sea, you will still find hotels and guesthouses and plenty of excursions from the town to the surrounding areas. Pitsunda is a laid-back location with hidden treasures waiting to be discovered.

Abandoned Towns

With many ghost towns and destroyed buildings, it sets the perfect atmosphere for paranormal and unique adventures. Whether you're a ghost hunter or simply interested in exploring abandoned Soviet-era buildings, the opportunity is vast in Abkhazia. Many of the major towns have small areas and districts that have not yet been rebuilt since the wars, such as Old Gagra and parts of Sukhum. Although you won't find any excursions that will guide you around the ruins, it's very easy to locate the areas. As well as buildings, Abkhazia has several abandoned palaces, churches, and railway stations across the country. The train graveyard in Sukhum has USSR trains almost stacked upon each other like toy trains. Exploring the abandoned towns and districts is the ultimate activity for the eager travel photographer, but caution should always be exercised when entering buildings and land that display significant damage, and permission must always be sought before entering property

Abkhazian Safari

Abkhazia is home to many species of bear, eagle, and wolf. One of the most incredible animals native to Abkhazia is the Caucasian Tur, a large breed of mountain goat. The Caucasus is also the source of one of the largest brown bear populations in Russia, along with many wolves roaming the mountains. Birds of prey, wild horses and even leopards are found throughout the Caucasus, so a hike in the Abkhazian mountains could offer you a glimpse into the habitats of some of the most sublime species. Take a jeep tour to get even deeper into the mountains and listen to the sounds of bears and wolves echoing through the forests and rocky peaks. Be inspired while watching the eagles soar above, and breathe in the fresh, clean air of Abkhazia. Although there are several hunting clubs specifically open for foreign travellers to hunt species such as the Tur in Abkhazia, we hope that you will take an alternative excursion to observe the wonders of the Caucasus, and appreciate the living souls of our nature.

Mountain Hiking

Abkhazia is three-fourths mountainous, which makes it the perfect area for enthusiastic mountain hikers. With numerous trails and several rocky peaks to climb, exploring the mountains of Abkhazia is a great way to discover the beauty and nature of the land. Get up close to the native species and flora, set up camp and watch the sunset over the Black Sea horizon while cooking fresh, local meat on the fire. Pass through isolated villages and be amazed by the hospitality and generosity of the villagers - you will probably need some extra space in your backpack for jars of handmade honey and nuts given to you by the excitable locals. For something more culturally appropriate, experience horseback riding through the Gagra mountains. Your guide will be able to show you the best parts of the region while the horse does the work. More experienced riders can take a gallop through the meadows with the fresh wind in your hair

Abkhazia Travel Blog

Hello and welcome to our Abkhazia travel blog. You will find all our Abkhazia blog posts in this section of our website.

Maybe you found our Abkhazia travel blog because you are considering a visit to Abkhazia, or perhaps you are partway through planning a trip to the Caucasus region. Whatever the reason, we hope we can provide some useful resources and travel tips for Abkhazia.

We wrote these posts following our Summer 2018 travel to Abkhazia, a tiny de-facto state in the Caucasus. We have mixed feelings about Abkhazia – on the one hand, we really enjoyed exploring a lesser-visited part of the region (we saw one other foreign tourist during our 10-day visit), but Abkhazia also has dark memories for us, because it was there that we had our worst-ever travel experience .

Our Abkhazia blog posts are generally aimed at independent travellers and backpackers like us and have a strong focus on travelling around using public transport, staying in budget accommodation and exploring off-the-beaten-path and lesser-visited places.

Browse all of our Abkhazia blog posts

Off-the-Beaten-Path Places to Visit in Abkhazia: Bzypta

by Mark | Oct 22, 2022

Off-the-beaten-path places to visit in Abkhazia: Bzypta. Soviet bus stops, mosaics, abandoned buildings and a Lenin statue in Northern Abkhazia.

25 locations that could be part of a Wes Anderson movie set

by Kirsty | Jan 27, 2021

Accidentally Wes Anderson – a selection of our photographs which we think belong on a Wes Anderson movie set #AccidentallyWesAnderson

Abandoned Abkhazia: Thermal Power Plant in Tkvarcheli

by Mark | Oct 21, 2020

Visiting an abandoned thermal Power Plant in Tkvarcheli. This ruined power plant in Abkhazia is among our most interesting urban explorations.

In photos: Lenin statues in the former Soviet Union 

by Mark | Jun 10, 2020

Photographs of Lenin statues in the former Soviet Union. These fifteen monuments to Lenin are still standing in the former USSR.

Abandoned Abkhazia: Former Medical Centre in Sukhumi

by Mark | Feb 26, 2020

Exploring an abandoned former Medical Centre in Sukhumi, Abkhazia. Get off the beaten path in the Caucasus where the urbexing options are endless.

A Short History of the Soviet Union from 1917 to 1991

by Mark | Nov 29, 2019

A short history of the Soviet Union from 1917 to 1991. A guide for those travellers to the former USSR who want to learn about the history of the region.

In photos: Twenty-five examples of Soviet mosaics in the former USSR 

by Mark | Sep 13, 2019

Photographs of some of our favourite examples of Soviet mosaics in the former USSR. These mosaics are perfect examples of art in post-Soviet states. 

In photos: twenty-five examples of Soviet modernism in the former USSR

by Mark | Apr 22, 2019

Photographs of some of the best examples of Soviet modernism in the former USSR, plus a brief explanation of this genre of architecture.

In photos: Abandoned swimming pools

by Mark | Feb 12, 2019

Of all the derelict places we find, abandoned swimming pools are some of the most alluring. Urban exploration at some of the world’s forsaken swimming pools

Abandoned Abkhazia: The Sanatorium of the Ministry of Defence of the USSR 

by Mark | Jan 12, 2019

Our exploration of Abkhazia’s neglected and plundered structures continued with a visit to the nearby Sanatorium of the Ministry of Defence of the USSR.

In Photos: the Abkhazian town of Ochamchire

by Mark | Dec 9, 2018

What to do in Ochamchire, a Black Sea resort which has far from recovered following the brutal Abkhazian-Georgian conflict of the early nineties.

Off-the-Beaten-Track Abkhazia: Pitsunda Resort

by Mark | Oct 22, 2018

Pitsunda Resort: Get off the beaten path in Abkhazia and explore the resort town of Pitsunda on the Black Sea Coast, including some history of the resort.

IF YOU ENJOYED OUR ABKHAZIA TRAVEL BLOG, YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN READING MORE OF OUR CAUCASUS BLOG POSTS  

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• Why Georgia
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• Destinations In Georgia

Abkhazia is located in the far northwest of Georgia , with the main range of the Caucasus Mountains to the north and the Black Sea to the southwest. There are over 195 kilometres of shoreline, and the climate is warm, humid, and subtropical.

Sokhumi, historically known as or Dioscuria, dates back to the 6th century BCE, and was an important cultural and economic center in the kingdom of Colchis. Its 10-kilometre sandy beach and subtropical plant life makes Sokhumi a popular destination all year round.

Sokhumi Botanical Garden

When in Sokhumi, you can’t miss the botanical garden, where more than 5,000 species of exotic plants grow throughout the year. Visitors can view rare plants brought in from North America, Southeast Asia, Australia, and more. Where else in the world can you walk through sun-dappled bamboo-lined avenues, rest in the shade of a giant 250-year-old linden tree, and appreciate the sweet smells of desert succulents?

Other Sights in Sokhumi 

Sokhumi is also home to an impressive art gallery, state museum, and remnants of buildings from the 11th-century Bagrationi period. Here you can also explore stalactite caves, the Primatoriuma farm-laboratory, and the riches of the Shervashidzes, an old ruling family of Abkhazia. 

Take some time to enjoy the view from Sokhumi Hill, and be sure to explore Sokhumi Fortress, Anacopia Fortress, Bagrat’s Castle, and the Sokhumi Lighthouse. 

Exploring the Natural Wonders of Abkhazia

In Abkhazia’s Gudauta Region lies some of the world’s deepest karst caves. The New Athos Karst Cave, with its massive stalagmites and underground waterfalls, is a must-see. At a height of 1,950 meters above sea level, the upper area is covered in ice year-round. Here you’ll also find the world’s deepest caves, Krubera and Veryovkina.

Hiking enthusiasts will be sure to love Gantiadi Village, which lies only a few meters from Hashupse Canyon. Here you can explore plateaus, vast cliffs, and stone labyrinths. You can even camp for the night at the speleological campsite on Arabika Massif, at a height of 2,656 meters. 

You’ll also want to visit the stunning Dzou Lake and the waterfall along the slopes of Gega. North of Bichvinta lies Georgia’s deepest lake, the enchanting Ritsa, surrounded by towering evergreen firs and Colchian box trees. 

Abkhazia is also home to Georgia’s longest rivers, the Bzipi and the Kodori, as well as the world’s shortest river, the Reprua, which is only 18 meters long. You can also see Abkhazia’s unique flora and fauna in the Ritsa, Pskhu-Gumista, and Bichvinta-Miuseri National Parks.

Historical Sights in Ochamchire

In the village of Mokvi in Ochamchire Municipality, you will find a 10th century cathedral commissioned by the Abkhazian King Leon III. This cathedral served as a house of learning for centuries. You can also visit the Bedia Monastery Complex, built in the 10th century by the first king of a fully united Georgia, Bagrat III. Finally, you can visit the medieval Ilori St. George Church.

Abkhazian Food

Vegetables, fruit, and dairy all have a prominent place in Abkhazian cuisine. It doesn’t matter whether you’re on a private home patio or in an upscale restaurant, you will always be able to find traditional Abkhazian food. 

The first local dish you’ll need to try is abista, a corn flour porridge which goes well with beans, cheese, and meat. Other traditional Abkhazian foods are ashvchapani made of kneaded cheese, aritsmgeli a cornbread made with walnuts, akrdtsa a local bean dish, Abkhazian ajika, and dried fig sheets.

If you visit Abkhazia for the traditional holiday of Likhnashta, head to Likhni Village in Gudauta, where you will have the opportunity to try traditional Abkhazian food.

Important information

The territory of Abkhazia is currently occupied, and the Georgian government can not guarantee your safety there. Also please be aware that entering Abkhazia is legally possible only from the Georgian side.

How to Travel to Abkhazia from Georgia

I keep hearing a lot of mixed information about travel to the Republic of Abkhazia , the northwestern tip of Georgia, which proclaimed itself independent after a bloody conflict in the early 90s. So I’ll be sharing here my experience getting to Sukhumi, with details on how to travel to Abkhazia from Georgia.

Why Travel To Abkhazia?

The area so-called Republic of Abkhazia is one of the most beautiful regions in Georgia . You’ll find mountains, lakes, monumental churches and many secluded beaches. People are friendly and, apart from a few Russian tourists, there are not many visitors, so the area is nearly unspoilt.

Is It Safe To Travel To Abkhazia?

Yes, at the moment it’s definitely safe to travel to Abkhazia. Despite all the warnings you will see on the internet, the place is and feels safe.

The Georgia-Abkhazia war took place in the early 90s and it’s considered a frozen conflict. Many websites say it could reignite at any time, but at the moment there’s no evidence to support that theory and life goes on as normal on both sides of the border.

Petty theft is bound to occur, so just don’t leave your belongings unattended anywhere, as you normally wouldn’t.

How To Travel To Abkhazia?

There are two entry points to Abkhazia. One is from Georgia and the other is from Russia. However,  it’s not possible to travel from Georgia to Russia via Abkhazia  (or vice-versa). You must leave from the same border crossing you used to enter the region.

Applying For The Abkhazia Entry Permit

Before you set off on your journey, you must apply for an entry permit to Abkhazia and this is what you need to do:

We exchanged a few emails in the meantime, and they were very friendly and professional. Officially, it’ll take 7 working days to process your visa, but only 3 days after I sent my documents I received my authorisation letter. You must print the letter, which is fully in Russian, and take it with you.

  How To Travel To Abkhazia From Georgia

I took an overnight train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi, near the border, and arrived around 7am. Just outside Zugdidi station, I took a minibus to the border. You can also get to Zugdidi by marshrutka (minibus) from Tbilisi, Kutaisi or Batumi.

Clearing Immigration With The Georgian Authorities

First, I had to show the Georgian authorities where I was going. I gave them my passport and showed the letter from the Abkhazian authorities. If they ask you any questions, don’t refer to Abkhazia as a separate country.  It took only two minutes for them to put me on their computers and off I went. Your passport will not be stamped , since the Georgian government doesn’t consider you’re leaving the country.

You will then cross the bridge over Inguri River, which serves as a natural border. Although there’s no real conflict, this is a sensitive area and there are many EUMM  (European Union Monitoring Mission) people on the Georgian side, so it’s not advised to take pictures here.

It’s a long bridge, so it’ll take you 10 minutes to cross it. If you prefer, there were some horse carriages to help you cross, but I didn’t find it necessary, and the journey is bumpy.

Clearing Immigration In Abkhazia

When I arrived, the border crossing was still closed and there was a large queue of locals. I was the only foreigner.

Clearing Abkhaz immigration was fairly simple. I handed over my passport and the letter and waited. The officer asked what I was going to do in Abkhazia, how long I was staying for, and made some phone calls. Another officer came, asked me the same questions and I was free to go.

Travelling From The Abkhazia Border To Sukhumi

Right by border, I walked passed some Abkhaz and Russian officers and saw many taxis and marshrutkas. I took a minibus to the town of Gali (50 rubles), and there I took another one to Sukhumi (200 rubles). The whole travel time is about 1.5 hours.

Collecting Your Abkhazia Visa In Sukhumi

Even though you entered Abkhazia, you still need to collect your visa. I went to  33 Sakharova street, in Sukhumi,  and paid for my visa there and then.  It seems the process has changed and you have to pay for your visa at a bank.

Things To Remember When Travelling To Abkhazia

– Make sure you have enough Russian rubles before crossing the border from Georgia. There is no money change on the other side of the border and taxi drivers will only accept rubles.

– Don’t take pictures of sensitive areas, such as government buildings.

– When leaving Abkhazia, the officer asked me a few questions in a very polite and friendly manner, and then asked to see my photos. In fact, I was being interrogated. He asked to open my small rucksack and he confiscated my Lonely Planet guide , because it states Abkhazia is part of Georgia. In short: don’t bring your travel guide to Abkhazia .

– If you have taken photos of sensitive areas, make sure you have uploaded it to the cloud or emailed it to yourself and delete it from your phone or SD card.

– If you want to travel to Abkhazia from Russia, the procedure is the same, but I haven’t done this myself. The main difference: you will need a double or multiple entry visa for Russia .

– If you do decide to enter Abkhazia from Russia, remember that, for the Georgian authorities, you’re entering Georgian territory illegally.

It may all sound a bit complicated, but from my experience it was all very straightforward. Even the officers’ questions at the border were asked in such a way that you never feel threatened. As long as you haven’t done anything wrong – and they know you wouldn’t – you will find the trip worthwhile.

MORE ABOUT GEORGIA:

Pedro has travelled to almost 120 countries and has made his nest in London. He has also lived in Spain, Australia, the US, Georgia and Turkey. A former hotel management professional, he loves exploring local cultures, is now learning his 8th language and has a soft spot for the Middle East and the CIS countries.

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• Travel Tips

Complete Guide To Getting From Georgia To Abkhazia

Published: September 11, 2023

Modified: January 3, 2024

by Pauly Markle

• Plan Your Trip
• Travel Guide

Introduction

Traveling can be an incredible adventure, but it’s not always as straightforward as hopping on a plane and arriving at your destination. In certain cases, such as traveling from Georgia to Abkhazia, there are unique challenges and considerations to keep in mind.

Abkhazia, a region located in the northwestern part of Georgia, is known for its stunning natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. However, due to political complexities and historical conflicts, there are specific travel restrictions and requirements when visiting this region.

In this comprehensive guide, we will explore various methods of getting from Georgia to Abkhazia, ensuring that you are well-prepared for your journey. Whether you prefer to travel by land or air, we will provide you with all the necessary information and tips to make your trip as smooth as possible.

Before we dive into the logistics of travel, it is essential to understand the unique situation surrounding the Georgia-Abkhazia border. Abkhazia declared independence from Georgia in 1992, which led to a military conflict. As a result, the region is considered a disputed territory, with different countries recognizing it as either part of Georgia or an independent state.

Due to these complexities, crossing the border can require specific permits and documentation. It’s crucial to familiarize yourself with the regulations and requirements to ensure a hassle-free journey.

Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a nature lover, or simply seeking a unique travel experience, Abkhazia offers a captivating destination. So let’s delve into the different ways to reach Abkhazia from Georgia and make the most of this fascinating region.

Understanding the Situation

Before embarking on your journey from Georgia to Abkhazia, it’s crucial to have a clear understanding of the political situation and travel restrictions in place. As mentioned earlier, Abkhazia is a disputed territory and has its own separate administration. This means that crossing the border requires careful planning and adherence to specific guidelines.

Firstly, it’s important to note that the Georgian government does not consider Abkhazia a separate country. Instead, it views the region as an integral part of Georgia. As a result, the Georgian authorities do not facilitate direct travel to Abkhazia, and travelers must follow alternative routes to reach the region.

To enter Abkhazia, you will need to obtain a separate visa from the Abkhaz authorities. It’s essential to research and understand the visa requirements beforehand, as they may differ from the regular Georgian visa. It’s also important to note that some countries might not recognize Abkhazia’s visa, so it’s prudent to check with your embassy before making any travel arrangements.

Another critical aspect to consider is your personal safety. While the situation in Abkhazia has generally stabilized in recent years, it’s still advised to remain vigilant and stay informed of any developments or travel advisories. It’s wise to consult with local authorities or trusted travel agencies for the most up-to-date information regarding safety concerns in the region.

In addition to safety considerations, it’s also important to respect the local customs and traditions of Abkhazia. The region has a rich cultural heritage, and visitors should be mindful of their behavior to ensure a positive and respectful experience. It’s recommended to dress modestly and to adhere to local customs when visiting religious sites or interacting with the local community.

By understanding the political, safety, and cultural nuances of the situation, you can better prepare for your journey from Georgia to Abkhazia. With the right knowledge and preparation, you’ll be able to navigate the complexities and make the most of your time in this unique and captivating region.

Traveling by Land

One of the most common ways to travel from Georgia to Abkhazia is by land. While there are no direct routes, there are a few options available for those who prefer to experience the journey over land.

The main crossing point between Georgia and Abkhazia is the Enguri Bridge, which connects the two regions. However, it’s important to note that crossing the Enguri Bridge requires specific permits and documentation.

To begin your journey, you’ll first need to travel to the Zugdidi, a city in the Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti region of Georgia. Zugdidi is the closest major city to the Enguri Bridge, and it serves as a popular starting point for travelers to Abkhazia.

From Zugdidi, you’ll need to make your way to the Enguri Bridge checkpoint. At the checkpoint, you’ll need to present your valid passport, along with the necessary permits and visas for entering Abkhazia.

It’s important to note that the permit requirements may vary depending on your nationality and the purpose of your visit. It’s advisable to check with the relevant authorities or consult with a travel agency to ensure you have the correct documentation required for crossing the border.

Once you’ve crossed the Enguri Bridge, you’ll officially be in Abkhazia. From there, you can continue your journey to your desired destination within the region. Whether you’re planning to explore the picturesque coastal city of Sukhumi or venture into the mountains to visit towns like Gagra or Gudauta, Abkhazia offers a range of stunning landscapes and cultural attractions.

When traveling by land, it’s essential to consider transportation options within Abkhazia. While public transportation is available, it may not be as frequent or reliable compared to more established tourist destinations. Hiring a private car or arranging for a local driver may provide more flexibility and convenience for exploring the region.

Traveling by land allows you to witness the changing landscapes as you make your way from Georgia to Abkhazia. It offers a unique opportunity to experience the region’s natural beauty and immerse yourself in the local culture and traditions along the way.

It’s important to stay informed about any changes in border regulations and to heed any travel advisories before embarking on your journey. By ensuring you have the necessary permits and documentation, you can enjoy a smooth and memorable trip from Georgia to Abkhazia.

Traveling by Air

If you prefer a quicker and more convenient option, traveling from Georgia to Abkhazia by air is a viable choice. While there are no direct flights between the two regions, there are alternative routes available.

The closest international airport to Abkhazia is the Sochi International Airport in Russia. From Sochi, you can then continue your journey by road to reach Abkhazia. This option is particularly convenient for travelers coming from international destinations.

There are regular flights to Sochi from various cities in Russia, as well as from other countries in Europe and Asia. From the airport, you can take a taxi or arrange for a private transfer to the border crossing point between Russia and Abkhazia.

It’s important to note that just like traveling by land, entering Abkhazia from Russia requires specific permits and documentation. Be sure to check the latest visa requirements and regulations before planning your trip.

Once you’ve crossed the border into Abkhazia, transportation options within the region will depend on your destination. If you’re heading to the capital city of Sukhumi, there are local taxis and minibusses available for transportation within the city.

If you plan to explore other parts of Abkhazia, it’s recommended to hire a private car or arrange for a local driver. This will provide you with more flexibility and convenience in navigating the region, especially if you want to visit destinations that are not easily accessible by public transportation.

Traveling by air offers the benefit of saving time and energy, allowing you to reach Abkhazia more quickly compared to traveling by land. It also provides the opportunity to enjoy aerial views of the stunning landscapes as you approach your destination.

Before traveling, be sure to check the availability and schedules of flights to Sochi, as well as any travel advisories or restrictions related to cross-border travel. By being well-prepared and staying informed, you can have a smooth and enjoyable journey from Georgia to Abkhazia.

Crossing the Enguri Bridge

The Enguri Bridge is the main crossing point between Georgia and Abkhazia and plays a significant role in traveling between the two regions. It’s important to note that crossing the Enguri Bridge requires specific permits and documentation, so it’s crucial to be well-prepared before attempting to cross.

To begin the process of crossing the Enguri Bridge, you’ll need to travel to Zugdidi, a city in the Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti region of Georgia. Zugdidi is located close to the border with Abkhazia and serves as a starting point for those embarking on their journey.

Once in Zugdidi, you’ll need to make your way to the Enguri Bridge checkpoint. At the checkpoint, you’ll be asked to present your valid passport, along with any permits or visas required for entry into Abkhazia.

The permit requirements may vary depending on your nationality and the purpose of your visit. It’s essential to research and understand the specific regulations beforehand to ensure a smooth crossing. Consulting with local authorities or travel agencies can provide you with the most up-to-date and accurate information regarding the necessary documentation.

It’s important to note that crossing the Enguri Bridge is subject to change based on the political climate and local circumstances. It is advisable to check for any travel advisories or restrictions before making your way to the border. Staying informed will help you avoid any potential complications or delays during the crossing.

Once you’ve crossed the Enguri Bridge, you’ll officially enter Abkhazia. From there, you can continue your journey to explore the region’s breathtaking landscapes, historical sites, and vibrant culture. Whether you plan to visit the coastal city of Sukhumi, explore the Ritsa Lake, or hike in the lush mountains, Abkhazia offers a wide range of attractions and experiences.

It’s worth noting that the Enguri Bridge crossing may involve some waiting time, especially during busy periods or on weekends. Therefore, it is advisable to plan your trip accordingly and allocate sufficient time for the crossing process.

Additionally, it’s crucial to respect any instructions provided by the border control officials and to adhere to the local regulations throughout the crossing. By doing so, you can ensure a smooth and trouble-free experience when crossing the Enguri Bridge.

Remember, traveling can be unpredictable, and it’s essential to maintain flexibility and patience throughout the process. With the right preparation and understanding of the crossing procedures, you can navigate the Enguri Bridge with ease, allowing you to fully enjoy your journey from Georgia to Abkhazia.

Entering Abkhazia without Crossing the Enguri Bridge

While the Enguri Bridge is the main crossing point between Georgia and Abkhazia, there are alternative ways to enter Abkhazia without crossing the bridge. These options allow travelers to access the region while bypassing the sometimes complicated border crossing process.

One such method is to enter Abkhazia through the Psou border crossing, which is located near the Black Sea coast. This entry point allows travelers to skip the Enguri Bridge and directly reach Abkhazia without going through Georgia. However, it’s important to note that this route may have its own specific requirements and restrictions, so it’s advisable to research and understand the regulations beforehand.

Another option is to fly into Sukhumi International Airport, which is located in Abkhazia’s capital city. Though limited international flights operate to this airport, it can be a convenient entry point for those traveling from nearby countries. From the airport, you can explore the charming city of Sukhumi or arrange for transportation to other destinations within Abkhazia.

It’s important to note that entering Abkhazia without crossing the Enguri Bridge may have its own set of permit and visa requirements. Be sure to check with the relevant authorities or consult with a travel agency to ensure you have the correct documentation required for entry through alternative routes.

Regardless of the method you choose, it’s crucial to understand and respect the local regulations and customs when entering Abkhazia. Familiarize yourself with the specific requirements and adhere to any instructions given by the border control officials to ensure a smooth entry into the region.

Once you’ve successfully entered Abkhazia, you can start your exploration of this fascinating region. From the beautiful coastal cities and pristine beaches to the lush mountain landscapes and historical sites, Abkhazia offers a diverse range of attractions and experiences.

Whether you choose to enter Abkhazia through the Psou border crossing or the Sukhumi International Airport, make sure to plan your journey in advance and stay informed about any changes in entry requirements or travel advisories. By doing so, you’ll be well-prepared to enter Abkhazia without crossing the Enguri Bridge and embark on a memorable adventure in this captivating region.

Exploring Abkhazia

Abkhazia, with its stunning natural landscapes, rich history, and unique culture, offers a wealth of opportunities for exploration and discovery. Once you have successfully entered the region, it’s time to immerse yourself in its beauty and experience all that Abkhazia has to offer.

One of the highlights of visiting Abkhazia is exploring its charming coastal cities, such as Sukhumi. Stroll along the picturesque promenade, lined with palm trees and offering breathtaking views of the Black Sea. Admire the elegant architecture of the Abkhazian State Drama Theater and the Sukhumi Botanical Garden, which houses an impressive collection of plants from various regions.

Abkhazia is also known for its impressive mountain landscapes. Hiking enthusiasts can venture into the Caucasus Mountains, where they will be rewarded with stunning vistas and the opportunity to discover remote villages and ancient ruins. The Ritsa Lake, nestled amidst the mountains, is a popular spot for nature lovers, offering serene surroundings and the chance to spot wildlife.

The region is also steeped in history, with numerous historical sites to explore. Visit the ancient capital of Anacopia and discover its ruins, which provide a glimpse into the region’s past. Explore the ancient cave city of Kamani, carved into the cliffs, and marvel at the engineering and craftsmanship of the Abkhazian people.

Abkhazia is home to a diverse and vibrant culture. Take the opportunity to try traditional Abkhazian cuisine, which features dishes such as Adzhika (a spicy sauce), Achma (a savory layered pastry), and Abysta (a hearty meat dish). Also, don’t miss the chance to experience traditional music and dance performances, which showcase the region’s cultural heritage.

As you explore Abkhazia, it’s important to respect the local customs and traditions. Dress modestly when visiting religious sites and adhere to cultural norms when interacting with the local community. Engaging with the friendly locals and learning about their customs will add depth to your travel experience.

When planning your itinerary, it’s advisable to check for any specific entry requirements or restrictions for certain areas within Abkhazia. Some locations may require additional permits or have limited access, so staying informed will help you make the most efficient use of your time and ensure a smooth exploration of the region.

Abkhazia’s natural beauty, rich history, and unique culture make it an intriguing destination for travelers seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience. By immersing yourself in the region’s treasures and embracing its traditions, you’ll create lasting memories and gain a deeper understanding of this remarkable destination.

Tips for a Smooth Journey

When embarking on a journey from Georgia to Abkhazia, proper planning and preparation are essential to ensure a smooth and enjoyable experience. Here are some tips to help you make the most of your trip:

• Research Entry Requirements: Familiarize yourself with the specific entry requirements for crossing the border or entering Abkhazia through alternative routes. Ensure you have the necessary permits, visas, and documentation to avoid any complications during the border crossing process.
• Stay Informed: Prior to your trip, keep up-to-date with any travel advisories or changes in border regulations. Check with your embassy or consult reputable sources for the most current information to ensure a safe and hassle-free journey.
• Respect Local Customs: Abkhazia has its own distinct culture and traditions. Respect the local customs and dress modestly when visiting religious sites. It’s also important to be mindful of local etiquette and practices when interacting with the local community.
• Travel Insurance: It’s highly recommended to have travel insurance that covers medical emergencies, trip cancellation, and lost or stolen belongings. This will provide you with peace of mind and financial protection in case of unforeseen circumstances.
• Language Considerations: While Russian is the dominant language in Abkhazia, some locals may also understand Georgian or English to some extent. It can be helpful to learn a few basic phrases in Russian or carry a translation app to facilitate communication.
• Transportation Options: Depending on your preference and the region you plan to explore, consider the most convenient transportation options. Hiring a private car or arranging for a local driver can offer flexibility and ease of travel, while public transportation may be more suitable for shorter distances or city exploration.
• Currency: The official currency in Abkhazia is the Russian Ruble. It’s advisable to have some cash on hand for smaller purchases and transactions, as credit card acceptance can be limited in certain areas.
• Safety Precautions: While Abkhazia has stabilized in recent years, it’s still important to exercise caution and stay informed about any potential safety concerns or travel advisories. As with any travel destination, it’s prudent to take common-sense precautions to ensure your personal safety and well-being.
• Enjoy the Journey: Finally, embrace the opportunity to explore a unique and captivating destination. Immerse yourself in the stunning landscapes, rich history, and vibrant culture of Abkhazia. Interact with locals, try the local cuisine, and seek out authentic experiences that will make your journey truly memorable.

By following these tips and taking the necessary precautions, you’ll have a smooth and fulfilling journey from Georgia to Abkhazia, creating lasting memories of this extraordinary region.

Traveling from Georgia to Abkhazia offers a unique and rewarding experience, allowing you to explore a region rich in natural beauty, history, and culture. While there are certain complexities and considerations to keep in mind, proper planning and understanding of the situation will help ensure a smooth journey.

Whether you choose to travel by land or air, it’s important to familiarize yourself with the specific entry requirements, permits, and documentation needed to cross the border or enter Abkhazia through alternative routes. Staying informed about any travel advisories or changes in regulations will help you navigate the process smoothly and avoid any unnecessary complications.

As you embark on your journey, remember to respect the local customs and traditions of Abkhazia. Immerse yourself in the region’s culture, try the local cuisine, and interact with the welcoming locals. By embracing the unique aspects of Abkhazia, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for this enchanting destination.

Whether you’re exploring the charming coastal city of Sukhumi, hiking in the majestic Caucasus Mountains, or discovering the region’s rich historical sites, Abkhazia offers a plethora of experiences that will leave you in awe. With its stunning landscapes, vibrant cities, and warm hospitality, Abkhazia is sure to captivate and inspire you.

Remember to take necessary safety precautions, stay informed about any potential risks, and have appropriate travel insurance. By doing so, you can fully enjoy your time in Abkhazia with peace of mind.

Abkhazia awaits your discovery. So, pack your bags, plan your trip, and get ready for a remarkable journey from Georgia to Abkhazia. Whether you’re a nature lover, a history buff, or simply seeking a unique travel experience, Abkhazia will leave an indelible mark on your heart.

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