arles tour van gogh

• My visits to the city
• Follow Van Gogh's footsteps

Vincent van Gogh spent 16 months in Arles. Walk in his footsteps and admire some of his masterpieces at the Vincent van Gogh Arles Foundation.

The van gogh pedestrian path.

Arles marked out a path to follow Vincent Van Gogh's footsteps. During his stay in Arles between February 1888 and May 1889, Vincent Van Gogh made about 300 drawings and paintings. In the city, you will find boards that symbolize where Vincent van Gogh set up his easel. A dozen locations have been identified :

- place of the Forum for coffee in the evening , - the Trinquetaille bridge corresponds to the Trinquetaille bridge staircase , - the Quai du Rhône at La Nuit Micheline, Place Lamartine at La Maison Jaune , - rue Mireille au (Le) vieux moulin , - the Boulevard des Lices garden at (Le) public garden , - the Van-Gogh space in the (Le) garden of the health centre , - the road along the canal from Arles to Bouc at the Pont de Langlois aux lavandières, more commonly known as Pont Van Gogh , (*outside the city centre) - the Quai du Rhône. The starry night , - Lamartine Square. Yellow House, - the arenas and the Alycamps were also immortalised in several canvases.

The banks of the Rhône  Arles and the Rhône, a story of love and distrust for Arlesians according to the water's moods... In the 19th century, on the river banks, the commercial activity is still important. Van Gogh criss-crosses the city and its surroundings. He relentlessly paints the transformations of nature and landscapes season after season as well as fields workers and peasants. Everything he sees inspires him and becomes a canvas. He often struggles with the sun and the wind...

In the nineteenth century, on the quays, the commercial activity is still important.Van-Gogh who approaches little the local population criss-crosses the city and its surroundings, ceaselessly paints the transformations of nature in the spring, the landscapes, the works of the fields, The men of the river at work. Everything he sees inspires him and becomes canvas. On the quays he puts down his easel when the wind allows it.

The Van Gogh pedestrian circuit Description in a document for sale at the Tourist Office of a marked pedestrian route, to be travelled at its own pace. Download the document in PDF format

Vincent Van Gogh Foundation The Vincent van Gogh Arles Foundation pays a fair tribute to his work while exploring its impact in contemporary creation. During temporary exhibitions, you will see how Vincent van Gogh continues to influence modern artists. The Foundation exhibits each year between 1 to 10 artworks from Van Gogh which have been lent by museums and private art collectors from around the world.

9 Boulevard des Lices 13200 Arles

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Finding Van Gogh in Arles: A Self-Guided Art Walk in the South of France

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Looking for Van Gogh in Arles? Here’s how to do a self-guided Van Gogh art walk in the South of France. 

Vincent Van Gogh is one of the most prolific painters in history, creating more than 2,000 works of art. Unfortunately, he was a tortured artist and is known for cutting off his left ear in a bout of mania.

Van Gogh spent a lot of time in asylums and hospitals to treat his mental health issues. During that time, painting served as his release.

Unlike other artists that are reclusive and leave us to guess as to their motivation/thoughts when creating a work of art, Van Gogh was an open book. Literally. He penned more letters than any other famous artist of his time, constantly explaining his thought process and plans to his brother Theo, his closest confidante, and other friends and family.

Today, Van Gogh’s paintings are scattered all over the world, from London to Chicago to Amsterdam. It’s impossible to find them all in one place. If you visit the South of France, however, you can see the real life places he painted, walking in Van Gogh’s footsteps. 

The majority of the places on this list are in Arles, where Van Gogh lived and worked for many years. Some are also in Saint Remy, where Van Gogh was committed in the later part of his life. Saint Remy is only a half hour away from Arles and makes for an easy road trip. 

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If you want to chase Van Gogh in Arles, go to the tourism office and get a map for 1 Euro. From there, it’s easy to show yourself around the town. There are placards at designated sites on the art route so you can’t miss them. 

This is a non-exhaustive list and there are many more places in the area where you can see artwork come to life. Here are some of the highlights of my search for Vincent Van Gogh in the South of France. 

1) The Bedroom 

The Bedroom is one of Van Gogh’s most famous paintings. There are three in existence, showing the bedroom he had when he lived in the Yellow House in Arles. By the way, that house no longer exists so please do not waste two hours looking for it like I did.

Since the original bedroom is no longer available, the folks at the Saint-Paul de Mausolée Asylum and Monastery put together this replica. The place still serves as a psychiatric hospital but is an ode to Van Gogh, with prints of his paintings hung throughout the premises and a gift shop filled with Van Gogh souvenirs. 

2) Oliveraie 

This is a field of olive trees outside of the asylum. Van Gogh painted many scenes from the area, finding respite in nature whenever he was given permission to roam the grounds. He described them as “venerable, gnarled olive trees.” Van Gogh wrote:

“The effect of daylight and the sky means there are endless subjects to be found in olive trees. For myself I look for the contrasting effects in the foliage, which changes with the tones of the sky. At times, when the tree bares its pale blossoms and big blue flies, emerald fruit beetles and cicadas in great numbers fly about, everything is immersed in pure blue.”

He felt that by interacting with nature, we could connect with the divine. As I walked around the premises to the tune of the cicadas, I couldn’t help but agree. 

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3) Hospital in Arles 

The courtyard of the former Arles Hospital, now known as “Espace Van Gogh,” is the subject of this painting. The vantage point is from Van Gogh’s room. The garden is well maintained and just as vibrant today as it was more than 100 years ago. Flowers featured in the painting include irises, pansies and poppies. 

Aside from the courtyard, there’s not much to do here. The place is no longer operational but is maintained as a tribute to the artist who made it famous, despite him not being a welcome or an easy patient while he was there. 

4) The Arena at Arles 

In the Van Gogh painting, the amphitheater is packed for a bullfight. The attention is on the crowd, however, not the show. The viewers include Van Gogh’s friends and acquaintances, which he often used as subjects in other paintings.

While in Arles, Van Gogh had a roommate, Paul Guaguin. He mimicked his style in this painting with flattened space and patches of color. 

5) Cafe Terrace at Night

This was one of the earlier works that Van Gogh painted upon arriving in Arles, and the first one that he painted at night. The yellow cafe, illuminated from within, stands in sharp contrast to the night.

Today, the cafe is still operational, though I wouldn’t recommend eating there. It’s pricey and reviews aren’t great. In an effort to capitalize off the location, it’s called Cafe Van Gogh now.

There’s been a lot of development since the late 1800’s, so you’ll have a hard time seeing the terrace unobstructed and at the same angle that Van Gogh painted unless you’re dining there. 

6) The Langlois Bridge at Arles

This bridge is the subject of four paintings Van Gogh made. The painting featuring the women washing clothes by the water is the most popular of the series. He said the canal reminded him of Amsterdam. At the time he painted it, Van Gogh was influenced by Japanese woodcut prints, using simple colors and forms to distill nature down to its essence and diagonal lines to direct the viewer’s eye. 

The bridge has since been rebuilt and is called Pont Van Gogh. It’s located slightly outside the city and is not easily accessible if you’re walking. 

7) Entrance to the Public Park in Arles 

Van Gogh painted this park frequently since it was near his house. Here we see the entrance, modernized over the last 150 years to include new construction and development. The people in the scene are all enjoying restful activities.

In his letters, Van Gogh wrote that the sky was a marvelous blue, with the sun shedding “a radiance of pure sulphur.” The emphasis of this piece, however seems not to be the heavens but the earth, with heavy use of green to convert the lushness of nature. 

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8) Corridor in the Asylum

This view of the corridor at Saint Remy was captured during Van Gogh’s voluntary 12-month stay. It is not an oil painting, however, but a watercolor drawing found at the MET Museum in New York . Van Gogh sent it to his brother Theo to give him a better idea of his surroundings. 

Aside from being unusually large for a drawing, Van Gogh infuses color where there is none. The hallway is cold and ominous in real life, but in Van Gogh’s painting it is almost rainbow colored. 

Notably, Van Gogh often used a mustard color for his yellows, as if the mute the inherent happiness of the hue. It is thought that Van Gogh might have suffered from xanthopsia, a color vision deficiency which causes a predominance of yellow in the vision, as a result of being treated with digitalis while committed. 

9) Sunflowers 

You won’t find a specific vase with sunflowers in them, but driving around Arles makes it easy to see why Van Gogh was so obsessed with the flower. Sunflowers symbolize happiness and hope. This series was completed during a more optimistic time in Van Gogh’s life, when he’d just moved to Arles and was awaiting for the arrival of Guaguin. He’d hoped to form an artist’s community in the area with Guaguin as his mentor. 

Perhaps indicative of his inner struggles, the sunflowers in Van Gogh’s depiction are never seen in full splendor, but rather a few days after being picked, when they’re slightly wilted. It’s thought that Van Gogh painted the flowers as decoration for his bedroom. 

10) Starry Night Over the Rhone

The evening sky served as inspiration for Starry Night Over the Rhone. It was painted from a vantage point just 2 minutes from Van Gogh’s house. Later, Van Gogh would paint the sky our Saint Remy in one of his most famous pieces, The Starry Night. 

This piece captures the gas lighting of the time as it glimmered across the water. In the bottom right corner, two lovers are seen strolling at night. 

Today, modern electricity takes away some of the magic, and an excess of ambient lighting makes the sky much less impressive (I didn’t see very many stars) but the basic outline remains and you can picture Van Gogh walking along the water at night, hoping to find some solace. 

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Till next time, safe travels! 

Liked this post? Pin me below.

starry night

Tuesday 21st of January 2020

Wow, you've got an amazing experience, so happy for you! Every art lover should visit those places, this is history! Definitely helps to see the world with Vincent's eyes

Wednesday 18th of September 2019

Any recommendations on where to stay in Arles? I will be there for two nights and hope to do this tour. Is there any neighborhood more convenient than others?

Jen on a Jet Plane

Saturday 21st of September 2019

If I remember correctly I stayed somewhere a little out of the way that was convenient to reach by car and affordable with all the basic necessities, believe it was Hotel ibis Styles Arles Palais des Congrès. I can't speak to the other neighborhoods but felt safe where I was. I hope this helps, and have a great trip!

Wednesday 19th of June 2019

Uh oh. It looks like I've found something new to add to my ever-growing travel wish list. What an amazing experience. I just saw one of the Bedroom in Arles paintings at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris. To actually travel to Arles would be amazing!

Thursday 20th of June 2019

It's an amazing experience for art lovers! There's a special vibe to the city, highly recommend it!

Lynne Nieman

Saturday 2nd of March 2019

I love Van Gogh and love that you sought this out. Now I want to go to Arles and St Remy!!

Monday 4th of March 2019

It's so worth a visit!

What a fascinating article and what a great way to see France. I love it. When I go back, I am definitely following your post.

Thank you Julie!

Arles Van Gogh Self Guided Walking Tour (with Maps!)

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You’re about to embark on a self-led tour through the heart of Arles, where history is palpable in every quaint street and enduring building. Whether they hail from the Roman era, the Middle Ages, or more modern times, these structures lend the city a timeless charm. This charm has not only captivated artists throughout history but also continues to draw visitors from around the globe in the 21st century. Recognizing the significance of Van Gogh and other artists to the city’s cultural heritage, local authorities have installed numerous informational panels across Arles. These panels showcase various works by the renowned artist at the very locations where they were created.

About Van Gogh

Born in Holland in 1853 and passing away in France in 1890, Van Gogh’s life was brief, ending at the age of 37, with an artistic career that spanned only a decade. However, it was in Arles that he truly found his voice as an artist, developing a unique, emotionally rich, and intensely personal style. This was a time of remarkable creative output, with Van Gogh completing around 200 paintings and 200 drawings. Despite this productivity, it was also a time marked by personal struggle, with periods of tension and anxiety. His working relationship with Paul Gauguin, another artist, soured, concluding abruptly after just 9 weeks. Van Gogh’s time in Arles is infamously remembered for its tumultuous end, with the artist severing his own ear.

Getting to Arles

By Car: Reasonably priced parking can be found at Point de vue and a little further on, by the train station is a large free car park .

Place du Forum

The journey begins at the Place du Forum, the vibrant heart of Arles’ old town, enveloped by a delightful array of cafés, restaurants, hotels, and shops. Year-round, the square thrives with the energy of visitors gathered at the myriad of tables scattered across it. At the onset of our tour, we encounter the first informational panel dedicated to one of Vincent van Gogh’s most celebrated works: the “Café Terrace at Night,” located at the Place du Forum in Arles, 1888, currently housed in the Kröller-Müller Museum in Otterlo, Netherlands. You’ll find the panel positioned at the intersection of Rue Favorin and the Place du Forum.

This nocturnal masterpiece, with its revolutionary interplay of blues against yellows, captures the eye with the warm glow of restaurant lights and the twinkle of stars in the clear night sky. Even under the sun’s glare, the scene is unmistakable. Today, La Café la Nuit still sports its iconic yellow facade, round tables, and the same lantern hanging from its wrought iron bracket, though some creative restoration may have been applied to replicate the original ambiance. While the left’s roofline shows minor alterations and Van Gogh exercised creative freedom to include the church bell tower in the background, the essence of the place remains unchanged. The cobblestones may have disappeared, and Van Gogh deliberately altered the buildings on the right, omitting the Roman architectural fragments from the ancient forum. This choice underscores his focus not on a precise architectural recounting but on capturing the vibrant atmosphere and the moment’s spirit.

Today, the square remains a bustling and friendly spot, inviting visitors to while away the hours in leisure and enjoyment, much like the vivid tableau Van Gogh immortalized over a century ago.

Fondation Vincent Van Gogh

Start at the corner of the square and proceed along Rue de la Liberté. Then, make a right turn onto Rue des Pénitents Bleus. Look for a sign pointing towards the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh. Once you turn onto Rue Docteur Fanton, you’ll quickly find the entrance to the foundation on your left.

The Van Gogh Foundation was established with the aim of bringing Vincent van Gogh’s vision to life: a collective of artists coming together to share ideas and collaborate, forging what he saw as the ‘art of the future.’ This aspiration dissipated following Gauguin’s departure from Arles, until the foundation’s inception. Launched in 2014, the foundation’s mission is to honour Van Gogh’s legacy by highlighting how his work continues to resonate with artists today. It hosts temporary exhibitions that delve into various facets of his oeuvre, successfully securing loans of Van Gogh’s paintings to be exhibited alongside pieces by contemporary artists. This creates a dynamic conversation that engages with both introspection and critique—a dialogue Van Gogh would surely have appreciated.

L’Escalier du Pont de Trinquetaille

Continue to the end of the street, then turn right to find yourself facing the river embankment. Cross the street and ascend the steps to the riverside walkway, turning left to observe the modern road bridge stretching over the Rhône. Walking under the bridge and a bit further, you’ll encounter another information panel, showcasing “L’Escalier du Pont de Trinquetaille, 1888” (held in a private collection).

Although the original iron bridge depicted in Van Gogh’s painting has been replaced by a modern counterpart lacking in aesthetic charm, the stone embankment steps and those leading up to the bridge remain unchanged. An interesting addition is a large plane tree beside the steps, which, curiously, might be the same tree that Van Gogh painted as a young sapling. The presence of parked vehicles and a street rubbish bin, however, somewhat mars the scene.

I have a View of the Rhône — the Trinquetaille iron bridge, where the sky and the river are the colour of absinthe — the quays a lilac tone, the people leaning on the parapet almost black, the iron bridge an intense blue — with a bright orange note in the blue background and an intense Veronese green note. One more effort that’s far from finished — but one at least where I’m attempting something more heartbroken and therefore more heartbreaking. Van Goch, in a Letter to his Brother

Restaurant Carrel

In his initial two months in Arles, Vincent van Gogh stayed at the Carrel hotel-restaurant, a property run by Albert Carrel and his wife, Cathérine Carrel-Garcin. This two-story establishment featured a quaint roof terrace and a balcony on the first floor.

At times it seems to me that my blood is more or less ready to start circulating again, which wasn’t the case lately in Paris, I really couldn’t stand it any more. Van Goch, in a Letter to his Brother

Fueled by a revitalized zeal for his work, Vincent was remarkably productive right from the outset, creating three studies within his first three days: “An old woman of Arles,” “Landscape with Snow,” and “View of a Butcher’s Shop.” These works were a prelude to the intensely fruitful period that was to unfold.

However, Van Gogh’s relationship with his lodgings soon soured. He expressed dissatisfaction with the Carrel hotel, feeling exploited and discontent with the quality of food served. Albert Carrel, on his part, felt burdened by the extra space Van Gogh’s painting materials occupied. Following a dispute over an increase in rent, Vincent departed the hotel on May 7 to take up residence at the Café de la Gare. Despite Carrel’s initial refusal to return Van Gogh’s belongings, a court order eventually compelled him to do so. Concurrently, Vincent had begun renting space in the “Yellow House” on May 1 to serve as his studio. Reflecting on his stay at the Carrel hotel, Vincent recounted his misery, attributing a decline in his health to the substandard food and wine, which he described as “real poison.”

Starry Night Over the Rhone

Looking ahead, the remnants of the old railway bridge, its buttresses crowned with majestic stone lions, come into view. Constructed in 1866, the bridge met its end under Allied bombing in World War II. As you pass remnants of the ancient city walls on your right, you’ll reach an expanse bordered by plane trees, known as Place Lamartine. Here stood Vincent’s “Little Yellow House.” However, before examining this site more closely, continue a short distance along the embankment. Here, embedded in the wall, you’ll find the next information panel.

this is the scene from “Starry Night Over the Rhône,” 1888, held by the Musée d’Orsay in Paris. This painting captures the night sky’s ethereal beauty, with stars and the river below mirroring the celestial display and the ambient glow of streetlights along the embankment. Faintly visible in the foreground are a couple of riverboats, possibly next to a pile of sand that catches the light, and two figures strolling by. Today, this spot is a popular mooring point for large river cruisers, bringing waves of tourists to the area.

The Yellow House

Turn your back to the river and navigate towards Place Lamartine, now a bustling roundabout and junction filled with the flow of modern traffic. Here, amidst the hustle, you’ll encounter the next information panel.

This is his “The Yellow House” (La Maison Jaune), 1888, preserved in the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam. Unfortunately, the quaint yellow house that once served as a residence for Van Gogh and Gauguin no longer stands, having been destroyed during the Second World War. Yet, many elements of the original scene remain recognizable. The prominent structure that stood behind the cottage still exists and currently operates as La Civette Arlésienne, a local bar and brasserie that echoes the social hubs of Van Gogh’s era. The railway bridge depicted to the right of the house remains in place, though now it is adorned with overhead cables to accommodate electric trains. Despite the transformation brought about by ceaseless traffic, altering the once tranquil ambiance captured in Van Gogh’s painting of vibrant blues and sun-baked yellows, the palpable sensation of warmth that permeates his work can still be felt on a sunny day.

La Maison de la Crau

As we explore beyond the typical paths, heading across the railway tracks with the river behind us, depart from Place Lamartine. Keep the remnants of the city walls and the Porte de la Cavalerie to your right, venturing onto Boulevard Emile Combs. On certain days, this area comes alive with the buzz of a vibrant street market. With the railway line to your left, you’ll soon encounter a pedestrian tunnel. Pass through it, then make a right onto Rue Mireille, walking alongside the railway line now on your right. This area, rather unremarkable today, would have been on the outskirts of the town in Vincent’s time, bordering the open landscapes of the Crau. Before long, you’ll find a set of steps to your right leading up to a bridge crossing the railway lines.

From this vantage point, looking back across the road, you can see a structure that once was a mill with an incomplete extension. This building served as the muse for Van Gogh’s “La Maison de la Crau,” 1888, now part of the collection at the Albright-Knox Art Gallery in Buffalo, NY. Currently, there’s no informational panel to mark this spot, reflecting significant changes over time. While the mill itself remains recognizable, its surroundings have dramatically transformed. The once-present stream and the pastoral backdrop with blue hills have been swallowed by urban expansion, leaving behind a somewhat dishevelled and overlooked scene. This absence of commemoration may be due to the area’s decline from its picturesque past. Interestingly, the present-day disarray and the touch of melancholy it conveys could have offered Van Gogh, were he painting in today’s era, a compelling subject, echoing his interest in capturing the essence of both beauty and desolation in his work.

L’Amphithéâtre Romain, Arles

After crossing the bridge, follow Rue Camille Pelletan as it curves to the right, leading you towards the main road. There, you’ll be greeted by a segment of the old city walls. Cross this road and proceed up Rue Portagnel, then make a left onto Rue du Refuge. Shortly, the impressive remnants of the Roman arena will come into view. Cross the road and ascend the elevated walkway encircling the monument, continuing to the right. Near the steps ascending from Rond Pont des Arènes, you’ll discover the next informational panel.

In 1888, Van Gogh captured this historical site in his work “Arena in Arles.” Interestingly, this painting places greater emphasis on the audience rather than the spectacle or surroundings. Characterized by rapid brushwork and indistinct forms in the backdrop, the artwork vibrantly reflects the frenetic ambiance of the bullfights, with a small bull depicted in the far off. The spectators, depicted in a state of animated conversation and cheering, add to the lively scene.

The energetic dynamism seen throughout this painting is a testament to Van Gogh’s mastery of a technique influenced by Gauguin. Similar to his depictions of dance halls, this approach suggests a space so charged with activity that it defies a static representation, capturing the essence of scenes where the sheer vitality cannot be fully conveyed through a single, frozen moment.

Have seen bullfights in the arenas. The crowd was magnificent, great multicoloured crowds. One on top of the other on 2, three tiers, with the effect of sun and shade and the shadow cast by the immense circle. Van Goch, in a Letter to his Brother

Just weeks after completing this canvas, Van Gogh famously severed part of his own ear, an act that has been the subject of much speculation and many theories over the years. One intriguing hypothesis suggests that the bullfights—or “bull games” as they are referred to in Arles—left a profound impact on Van Gogh. Specifically, the tradition of cutting off one ear of a defeated bull was thought to have resonated with him. In this ritual, the victorious matador parades around the arena with the ear as a trophy, eventually offering it to a woman of his choosing. However, there’s some uncertainty regarding whether this practice of bull execution was prevalent in Arles during Van Gogh’s era.

Jardin d'Ete, Arles

Look out for the plaque that shows where he painted the “Entrance to the Public Park in Arles”. The painting showcases Van Gogh’s fascination with the interplay of light and colour, using it to evoke a sense of warmth and vitality that was characteristic of the region’s climate and atmosphere. The composition is notable for its inviting path that leads the viewer’s eye into the lush garden beyond, a technique that Van Gogh used to draw the viewer into the scene. The painting is filled with a sense of peace and serenity, contrasting with the tumultuous nature of Van Gogh’s personal life.

This commemorative bust of Van Gogh by American artist William Earl Singer was commissioned by the city in 1969 to mark the artist’s residency in Arles from February 1888 to May 1890.

Les Alyscamps

This picturesque avenue, adorned with a canopy of trees and lined by ancient tombs and sarcophagi from Roman and early Christian eras, served as a source of inspiration for both Van Gogh and Gauguin, who painted it multiple times. In at least two portrait-oriented versions, Van Gogh captured the view stretching down towards the church of Saint-Honorat. Over the years, the trees along the avenue have transformed, making it challenging to recreate the exact perspectives from the past. In “Les Alyscamps, 1888” (held by the Collection Basil P. and Elise Goulandris in Lausanne, Switzerland), industrial structures visible through the trees on the left side have since disappeared. Van Gogh also explored this scene in landscape format in several works, including “Falling Autumn Leaves, 1888” (housed in the Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, Netherlands), with an informational panel (7) along the avenue guiding visitors to this particular view. Van Gogh likely painted this scene from an elevated position, looking back towards the entrance, a perspective that is currently inaccessible but whose essential features remain identifiable.

The avenue also features in Gauguin’s work; “Allée des Alyscamps, 1888” (located at the Seiji Togo Memorial Sompo Japan Museum of Art in Tokyo) prominently includes the church of Saint-Honorat. However, Gauguin’s more famous depiction, “Les Alyscamps, 1888” (Musée d’Orsay, Paris), was painted from a vantage point outside the monument, likely from the right bank of the Canal de Craponnie. Although a footpath still runs atop the left bank, the opposite side has become overgrown, concealing the church tower behind foliage. The quaint scene of three nuns leisurely strolling by the water’s edge, once possible to observe, is now obscured, reflecting the changes that have enveloped this historic avenue over time.

The Garden of the Hospital in Arles

Espace Van Gogh, now occupying the former Hôtel Dieu, can be entered from Place du Docteur Félix Rey. Here, visitors find themselves in a garden that Vincent van Gogh famously captured in “The Garden of the Hospital in Arles” (Le Jardin de la Maison de Santé à Arles), 1889, part of the Oskar Reinhart Collection ‘Am Römerholz’ in Winterthur, Switzerland, and highlighted by another information panel. This location holds significant historical relevance as it was where Van Gogh was taken for medical care under Doctor Rey after his notorious altercation with Gauguin, which resulted in Vincent severing his own left ear. The architecture of the building and the garden’s layout remain much as Van Gogh depicted them. The artist’s forced admission here, following a petition by concerned townsfolk, effectively shattered his aspirations for establishing a ‘studio of the south’ and soured his relations with the Arles community. Van Gogh’s experience and the environment of the hospital are further documented in his painting “The Ward in the Hospital at Arles,” 1889, also in the Oskar Reinhart Collection.

Following his release, Van Gogh, unable to bear the thought of continuing his stay in Arles, chose to enter the Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence voluntarily. This marks a poignant conclusion to our exploration of Arles, as Vincent ceased to produce any more works in the city. Today, the Espace Van Gogh stands in stark contrast to its historical past; the once-daunting hospital setting has been transformed into a lively area brimming with gift shops, galleries, and cafés, offering a contemporary homage to the artist’s legacy in Arles.

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The Ultimate Self Guided Walking Tour of Arles, in the Footsteps of Van Gogh

Vincent Willem van Gogh , better known to the world as just  Van Gogh , is one of the most prolific artists (if not  THE  most) of all time. A tall order, but anyone who has ever had the chance to view his work, especially in person, can tell you;  his paintings are more than paintings . They are expressions. Emotionally compelling images of pain and suffering mixed with astonishing beauty.

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Van Gogh  was born in  Zundert  but spent one of the most important years of his life as a painter in  Arles, France .  Arles  and the provincial countryside inspired Van Gogh to create brighter and more exciting landscapes. This walking tour will wind you across the city, through its narrow, quaint and beautiful cobblestone backstreets. Our journey takes us along the  Rhone River  and into the various picturesque squares that Arles is famous for. The walking tour will show you the various works of art that Van Gogh painted while living in Arles and the buildings he frequented as a resident of this historic city. 

Roman Arles

Arles , a large city in the French region of Provence, has a long history that dates back to Roman times. Back then, it was one of the most important cities in the Empire. There are signs of occupations as early as 800 BC. The Romans took over the town in 123 BC and continued to enrich the city with their incredible architecture and infrastructure.  Emperor Constantine I  built the Roman bathhouses. His son,  Constantine II , was born in Arles as the emperor had made it a home away from home. In 408 BC, the new emperor Constantine made Arles the capital city of Rome. Arles became a cultural and religious centre throughout the late Roman Empire.

For hundreds of years, the city of Arles continued to hold absolute authority over those in power. Arles joined the countship of Provence in 1239. Due to its proximity to the river, it was a mighty trade city. But in the 19th century, with the advent of the railroad, its significance began to diminish. The town became stagnant, with little to no modern development.

Van Gogh Comes to Arles

But this relic from the past was precisely why Van Gogh was so drawn to the city. The city was full of memories yet peaceful enough to feel like an escape. Everywhere he looked, it seemed as if something was waiting to be discovered.

Sadly, after years of poverty and suffering from various mental illnesses, Van Gogh committed suicide at age 37. But this was not the end of his story. Despite not being appreciated during his lifetime, his impact in the history books is unmatched. And Van Gogh’s stories from Arles put the city back on the map. After years of almost being forgotten, the city suddenly was a hot spot for visitors trying to follow in his footsteps.

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Accommodation

If you want to spend a night in Arles, the best place to stay is the little B&B,  L’aubergine Rouge . This little hotel is tucked away in the southwest corner of Arles on one of the most darling streets you’ll ever wander down. They have several rooms inspired by the painter where you’ll feel like you’re sleeping inside of his paintings.

Most people arriving in Arles arrive either by  car  or by  train . Arles is just an hour from Marseille, 35 minutes from Nimes, and 40 minutes from Avignon if you  rent a car . Often you’ll find if you are travelling from either Nimes, Marseille or Avignon, the train is often an even faster journey than driving! So long as the departure and arrival times align with your plans. The train from Nimes is 30 minutes, Marseille takes 45 minutes, and Avignon is only a 20 minutes journey. Most days, trains arrive and depart about every hour from these cities.

If you are driving into Arles for the day, the best place to park your car is in the  Parking Garage  near the  Post Office . This is just on the outskirts of town, meaning you won’t have to drive through too many narrow streets. Since it’s a little outside the centre, you also won’t have to pay a huge mark up for being in the middle of town. This parking lot is very reasonably priced and right beside the first stop on our tour.

Walking Tour

The Alyscamps

The first stop on the walking tour is the  Alyscamps Necropolis.  The  Alyscamps  is one of the oldest Roman ruins in Arles. Roman cities didn’t allow burials inside the city limit for fear of dead infecting the living. Therefore, roads into the city were often lined with tombs and mausoleums. And the Alyscamps was THE place to be buried! People had bodies shipped from all over Europe for the honour of being buried here. 

But during the middle ages, when it became more traditional to be buried in a church graveyard, the  Alyscamps  fell out of fashion. In the Renaissance, old roman sarcophagi were given as gifts to visiting dignitaries. And others were looted by local thieves. All of this contributed to the Alyscamps falling into disrepair, and eventually, it was a forgotten piece of history. The site was wild and overgrown and yet a naturally beautiful environment.

When Van Gogh arrived in Arles, it was still a ruin. He painted four scenes here in 1888, sitting in front of the ancient Roman ruins.  Paul Gauguin  was staying with Van Gogh during this period. Although their relationship was fraught with hardship, it also inspired the best in both artists. Van Gogh gifted one of his Alyscamps paintings to Gaugin. And even lost past his death, this painting hung in Gaugin’s room for years. Since Van Gogh made it famous once more, the  UNESCO World Heritage group  has turned it into a heritage site. And restored much of the place to be appreciated by visitors once more.

Jardin d’Eté 

Walk north along the  Avenue des Alyscamps  and turn left down  Avenue Victor Hugo . On the north side of the street, you will begin to see the bright green grass of the  Jardin d’Eté  starting to peek through. 

The  Jardin d’Eté  is a relaxing urban park situated against the backdrop of the ancient Roman amphitheatre. There are dozens of fountains and playgrounds, so it’s a great place for kids to have a nice runaround.

For Van Gogh, it was a place he would often come to paint on sunny, summer days. In a letter to his sister, he wrote of the gardens in the park:

I don’t know whether you can understand that one may make a poem by arranging colours…Similarly, the bizarre lines, purposely selected and multiplied, meandering all through the picture may not present a literal image of the garden, but they may present it to our minds as if in a dream. Van Gogh

Roman Amphitheatre

Walk north along the pathways in the park until you can exit to the east of the Roman Amphitheatre. You’ll walk out onto  Rue Porte de Laure . Continue walking along until you reach the imposing  Roman Arena . Built in 90 AD, the amphitheatre was capable of seating over 20,000 spectators. People would come from far and wide to watch chariot races and bloody hand-to-hand battles. Unlike the  Colosseum  in  Rome , this amphitheatre is still used for concerts and festivals to this very day.

Vincent went to many bullfights in his time in Arles. He wrote to his friend: 

Have seen bullfights in the arenas. The crowd was magnificent, great multicoloured crowds. One on top of the other on 2, three tiers, with the effect of sun and shade and the shadow cast by the immense circle. Van Gogh

Van Gogh painted a scene in 1888 entitled  Arena in Arles . The painting is more focused on the spectators than the action or environment. It is a rough and tumble painting. Quick brush strokes and unfinished shapes are obscured in the background. The speed of the painting reflects the voracious atmosphere of the bullfights. A small bull can be seen off in the distance. Spectators are excitedly turning to chat with their neighbours and cheering for their favourite fighters.

This jittery motion used throughout the painting was a technique that Van Gogh perfected under Gauguin’s influence. His paintings of dance halls also had the same, almost unfinished approach. This technique conveyed to the viewer the idea that some spaces were filled with such powerful energy they simply couldn’t be captured in a moment of stillness.

Rue Voltaire

From the arena, walk north along  Rue Voltaire . Walking down this street is like taking a step back in time. Dozens of vibrant cafes and restaurants pour out onto the street. Dazzling awnings hang off ancient stone buildings. Pastel shutters brighten up the rainiest day. You will see so many little scenes as you walk, which could have stepped right out from one of Van Gogh’s paintings.

Restaurant Carrel

When you reach  Rue Léon Blum , turn left and stop on the corner of  Rue Amédée Pichot . When Van Gogh first moved to Arles, he stayed in a room above the  Restaurant Carrel , owned by Albert Carrel and his wife. Vincent wrote to his brother Theo when he arrived in Arles:

At times it seems to me that my blood is more or less ready to start circulating again, which wasn’t the case lately in Paris, I really couldn’t stand it anymore. Van Gogh

Shortly after arriving in Arles, the lack of creativity he experienced in Paris disappeared. With his creative spark alight once more, he painted  View of a Butcher’s Shop . One can imagine that this butcher shop perhaps was painted from the very room he stayed in. Walking up and down this otherwise ubiquitous street gives you a sense of the area Vincent first called home in Arles.

But Van Gogh didn’t live on this street for long as he often had mighty disagreements with his landlord. While he might not have loved his landlord, he did love the neighbourhood. It wouldn’t be long until Van Gogh would soon move into his iconic  Yellow House , which was just up the street.

As you near the end of the Street,  Rue Voltaire  turns into  Rue de less Cavalerie . You will pass through the two giant aged guard towers. These towers are surrounded on either side by the ancient city walls.

Yellow House

Across the roundabout, at the corner of Rue Georges Tinarage and Avenue de Stalingrad, is a simple restaurant. But this was once where you would have found Van Gogh’s beloved home. The same one featured in his painting  The Yellow House . 

The original house had four rooms and a small studio. Vincent painted the entire building bright, sunflower yellow. In the painting, you can see a train rushing by in the distance. These trains were Vincent’s way into the countryside, his beloved muse. More than any woman. He loved the city, but the wild sunflower fields, blossoming fruit trees, charming peasants and golden wheat fields were where his brush came alive.

Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône

Turning left, make your way towards the  Rhone River.  Here you’ll find the scene from painting  Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône . Don’t get this mixed up with  Starry Night , although they are both very similar and show Van Gogh’s obsession with capturing night effects. In a letter he wrote to his brother Theo, he said:

Often it seems to me the night is even more richly coloured than the day. Van Gogh

Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône  is an explosion of blue; Prussian blue, ultramarine and cobalt. Each one of these colours are contrasted with intense orange and yellow. The firery colours representing the gas lights reflecting in the water. A man and his wife walk along the shore away three boats, bobbing in the water. Whereas  Starry Night  is a dreamlike fury of brush strokes,  Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône  is a much calmer scene. The brush strokes are evenly spaced, and even the lights on the water are still. Not a single ripple seems to disturb them.

Musée Réattu

Continue walking down the water’s edge. The fantastic pedestrian promenade is ideal for taking in all the sights along the river. After about five minutes, you’ll reach the  Musée Réattu.  When Van Gogh lived in Arles the museum was a place he hated. He is quoted as saying:

The women are beautiful here, it’s no joke — on the other hand, the Arles museum is dreadful and a joke. Van Gogh

Van Gogh was very judgmental of other artists. Perhaps out of jealousy of those who seemed to manage to make the kind of living, he would never. During his lifetime, he only sold one painting. He couldn’t understand how people could see the greatest in these artists and not himself.

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Vincent van Gogh Foundation Arles

As a cosmic coincidence, the  Vincent van Gogh Foundation in Arles  is located only a few minutes south of the  Musée Réattu . In 1983, Yolande Clergue founded the  Association for the Creation of the Foundation Van Gogh . He was a long-time resident of Arles and believed there should be an institute to study and educate people on Van Gogh’s influence on modern artists in Provence. In 2010, the city of Arles gave the historic  Hôtel Léautaud de Donines  to the institute. It was renovated to become an educational space.

The museum features a large collection of Van Gogh’s letters and perhaps one or two original Van Gogh paintings. Don’t come here expecting to see those famous works of art. The museum is meant to highlight modern artists influenced by Van Gogh and the city of Arles.

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Place du Forum

Walking along Rue du Dr Fanton and turning down Rue de la Place , you will come up the Place du Forum . The Place du Forum was once the historic city centre during the Roman ages. You can still see one of the ancient columns embedded into the side of the Nord-Pinus Grand Hotel .

Vincent’s fixation on the appearance of the world at night continues and is highlighted in Café Terrace at Night . He said in a letter:

In the past, they used to draw, and paint the picture from the drawing in the daytime. But I find that it suits me to paint the thing straight away. It’s quite true that I may take a blue for green in the dark, a blue lilac with a pink lilac since you can’t make out the nature of the tone. But it’s the only way of getting away from the conventional black night with a poor, pallid and whitish light, while in fact, a mere candle by itself gives us the richest yellows and oranges. Van Gogh

Le Café Van Gogh

Despite Vincent’s lack of popularity in his lifetime,  Van Gogh  is big business these days.  Le Café Van Gogh  is a recreation of the original cafe from the painting. Although it’s not the authentic spots from the painting, it has been done up to look as much like the real thing as possible. While the square is pretty busy and expensive, it is also a stunning place to sit with a coffee and enjoy the scenery. 

Old Arles Hospital

Walk south from the forum until you reach the  Old Arles Hospital . One evening, after Gauguin had made it clear to Vincent that he had made plans to leave, Van Gogh returned home alone. Suffering from hearing voices, especially when left alone, Van Gogh was tormented. In a fit of madness, he cut off his ear. Perhaps as a means to cut out the noise of the voices. Van Gogh bandaged the wound and wrapped the ear in the paper. He delivered it to a cleaning woman who worked at a local brothel that Gaugin and Van Gogh frequented together.

Van Gogh was found unconscious by a policeman and taken directly to the Old Arles Hospital the following day.  Félix Rey , a young doctor still in training, treated him inside his hospital. Van Gogh was diagnosed with “acute mania with generalized delirium during his time in hospital.” Vincent would go from being semi-lucid to suffering from hallucinations and delusions. His brother Theo came to visit him in hospital despite getting engaged the day previous. Nothing would keep Theo from being by Vincent’s side.

Hospital in Arles

Dr. Rey  felt sorry for Vincent. He would allow Vincent into the courtyard to paint on his more lucid days. And paint he did. Even today, this courtyard manages to bring a sense of peace to even the most scattered mind. The golden walls seem to glow in the sunlight. The garden is full of lustrous flowers which burst open in the afternoon. Van Gogh’s painting,  Hospital in Arles,  depicted the courtyard in 1888. Looking at it today, you can barely see the passage of time between the two.

Ward in the Hospital in Arles

He also created two other paintings during his stay in the hospital. One was a gift to Dr. Félix Rey. It was a portrait of the beloved doctor who showed Vincent genuine kindness. The second painting is entitled  Ward in the Hospital in Arles.  The scene is quiet and simple. But Vincent’s slight distortions represent the isolation and confinement while living here. 

Starry Night

In 1889, Van Gogh was committed to the  Saint-Paul de Mausole  asylum in  Saint-Rémy de Provence . From there managed to channel his pain into one of the most impactful paintings,  Starry Night . This painting is all about dreams versus reality. The natural versus the divine. It brings us into the beautiful madness inside Van Gogh’s mind. In his mind, he lived in the stars, beloved and looked up to by everyone on earth. The swirling, fluid paint in the sky contrasts the rigid city landscape below. Like a window into the heavens, a wonderful dream, unlike our structured reality. 

The Bridge of Trinquetaille

Walking back towards the river, walk up the water’s edge. Here you can see the scene from the painting of  The Bridge of Trinquetaille.  Van Gogh was in love with bridges. They are frequently featured in his works. In a letter to his brother, he wrote:

I have a View of the Rhône — the Trinquetaille iron bridge, where the sky and the river are the colour of absinthe — the quays a lilac tone, the people leaning on the parapet almost black, the iron bridge an intense blue — with a bright orange note in the blue background and an intense Veronese green note. One more effort that’s far from finished — but one at least where I’m attempting something more heartbroken and therefore more heartbreaking. Van Gogh

Walk out to the centre of the  Pont de Trinquetaille , where you’ll have a beautiful view across the  Rhone River . Looking out, see if you can spot all those magnificent colours Van Gogh spoke about in his letter. Van Gogh is an artist whose use of colour is unparalleled. He saw the world in a way that many of us simply miss. Take this time to yourself. Put away your phone or camera for the moment and simply look over the horizon.

While Van Gogh’s depression was something he couldn’t overcome, there is no doubt that, at least for a time, Arles gave him a momentary respite from the overwhelming sadness he felt in his soul. And no matter who you are, I hope that visiting Arles brings you the same sense of peace Van Gogh felt when he was here. You may even see a little bit of that magic Van Gogh etched into history. And bring a little bit of that magic home with you too!

Get the Downloadable PDF of the Van Gogh Arles Walking Tour!

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21 comments.

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Hi Laura, I liked your article on Arles a lot! There’s one little thing that needs fixing though; van Gogh was born in Zundert which is in the Netherlands, not Belgium, and which is the reason why he is Dutch. People who are born in the Netherlands are Dutch

Wow, nice catch! Totally a mixup for me there. Thanks Michelle 🙂 Glad you enjoyed the article.

Hey!! Really loved your article 🙂 I am a big fan of Van Goght and really look forward to visit Arle’s on April 2019 to do this lovely tour myself. I kindly wanted to ask you , in your opinion, how many days this tour in Arle’s should last to properly enjoy the experience. Many thanks again for your article.

Hi Andrea! Glad to hear you’re such a fan! April will be such a beautiful time to visit, all those awesome spring flowers in bloom. I think 2 full days should be more than enough. I think most people could do it in one long day but if you’re a big fan you’d wanna take your time and not rush through it. Plus it gives you can option if one of the days are rained out. If you’re a big Van Gogh fan, I’d suggest staying at Laubergine Rouge. They have a Van Gough themed room which you’ll love!

Laura- Did you do the walking tour on your own? Or did you hire a company? If so, would you mind sharing their name? We will be visiting Arles next fall and I’ll love to schedule a walking tour like you described.

We did the walking tour all on our own! Just followed pretty much what I’ve laid out here. It’s such a wonderful city to explore on foot! Don’t be afraid to poke your head around hidden corners, you’ll never know what surprising secrets you’ll discover!

Laura – Great article and very informative. I am going there shortly and you have given an excellent idea of what’s there.

Thanks Keith! Arles is such a great city to explore on foot, you’ll have a great time following this as well as discovering new things for yourself! Let me know what you loved most!

Francesca M

I feel like I traveled there myself through this blog post. Thank you.

Thanks, Francesca! Hope you have an amazing time, it really is such a unique and beautiful place!

My husband & I are planning a cruise that stops for the day in Marseille. We would like to take the walking tour of Arles as you’ve described (it sounds outstanding!). Generally, how long is the tour if you enjoy it at a comfortable pace? Is the weather pleasant in early September? ( [email protected] )

Hi Linda! So excited to hear about your trip plans, Septemeber is a great time to visit as it’s when the high summer heat starts to reduce but it’s still going to be nice and warm. I would give yourself at least 4-5 hours to soak it all in. The town is pretty small but it’s just nice to go at a leisurely pace to really study the intricacies of the environment and architecture. There’s a train from Marseille direct to Arles which should take a little less than an hour so you could early go there in the morning, enjoy some lunch and be back in Marseille for a late dinner. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions 🙂

Do you offer a PDF of your tour? I would like a hard copy but don’t see a link. It sounds wonderful. Thanks

Hi Betty, I don’t have one available on the site but I can easily email you one 🙂

Hi, Really enjoyed your information on the walking tour. Would you send me a hard copy of this tour? Please tell us where we start the tour. We are taking a Viking River cruise in May where we will be stopping in Arles for a day. Really looking forward to taking this walking tour. Thank you, Susan

Thanks so much Susan! I’ve send you an email to follow up 🙂 Cheers, Laura

albert tecci

Hi we are planning a trip Sept 2021 and Arles and VH are our favorites. This is so valuable to us. And, please can we have a hard copy also.

Thank you so much Albert and Cheryl

laura.f.whelan

Thanks so much, Albert and Cheryl! You will have a wonderful time in Arles, a great place to visit in the fall! Let me know if you would like me to send you a PDF to your email address of the post and then you should be able to print that off for your hard copy. Unfortunately, I do not have buyable physical versions of the posts yet but the PDF printable version should work just fine.

Blythe Hughes

Hi Laura – I would love to have a pdf of your walking tour of Arles. I’ll be visiting in May and have been looking for something just like this! Can you please email me a copy?

Hi Blythe, Thanks for your lovely comment! May is such a wonderful time of year to visit Provence. If you’re looking for a downloadable PDF you can get it here: https://thecreativeadventurer.com/product/self-guided-walking-tour-of-arles-downloadable-pdf/ Cheers, Laura

Hello- please disregard my original message- I was able to download the document. Appreciate all do! S

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An insider’s travel guide to Van Gogh's Arles

Follow in the artist’s footsteps and discover the places that inspired his greatest paintings.

Vincent van Gogh, The Yellow House, September 1888 Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation)

Adventures with Van Gogh is a weekly blog by Martin Bailey, our long-standing correspondent and expert on the artist. Published every Friday, his stories range from newsy items about this most intriguing artist to scholarly pieces based on his own meticulous investigations and discoveries. © Martin Bailey

June is probably the best month to visit Provence and follow the Van Gogh trail. A stroll through Arles offers a delightful insight into the artist’s life and work. Low-rise houses with sun-bleached shutters line its narrow, pedestrianised streets. The sweeping curve of the Rhône embankment is never far away, along with remnants of the ancient ramparts that once surrounded the city’s historic centre.

Start the Van Gogh trail in Place Lamartine, two minutes walk from the railway station. It was here that the artist painted one of his most personal pictures, The Yellow House . Van Gogh rented the small, cosy house soon after his arrival in 1888. For the only time in his adult life, he had a real home of his own. “I live in a little yellow house with green door and shutters, whitewashed inside”, he wrote excitedly to his sister Wil. Later that year, he invited his friend Paul Gauguin to join him from Paris. Sadly, their collaboration came to an abrupt end just before Christmas, when Vincent mutilated his ear.

Detail of a postcard showing Place Lamartine and the Yellow House, around 1904

A postcard from around 1904 represents the earliest photograph of the Yellow House (which lies behind the lamppost). The building just to its left, with a whitewashed exterior on the lower floor—and a pink awning in the painting—housed a grocery shop, which must have been very convenient for Van Gogh.

Behind the Yellow House lies a taller building that now houses the Café Terminus—a good place to stop for a coffee and croissant. Further up the road are two railway viaducts that were depicted by Van Gogh and still survive. Van Gogh called it the Route de Tarascon, and he would set off along the dusty way most days to work in the landscape just outside Arles. It is now the Avenue de Stalingrad, honouring the Red Army’s victory over Nazi Germany.

A postcard showing the Yellow House after the bombing of 25 June 1944

During the Allied bombing of Arles during the Second World War, the Yellow House was hit. Van Gogh’s bedroom on the upper floor (with the closed green shutters in the painting) was destroyed, although Gauguin’s adjacent room partly survived. Downstairs the walls of the studio and the kitchen suffered lesser damage. The building could have been saved, but instead it was simply demolished. Had the Yellow House been rebuilt, it would now rank among the most popular French tourist attraction outside Paris.

Vincent van Gogh, Starry Night over the Rhône (1888), Musée d’Orsay, Paris, currently on loan to Tate Britain, London © RMN-Grand Palais (Musée d'Orsay)/Hervé Lewandowski Musée d’Orsay, Paris

Three minutes walk away from the left edge of the painting lies the river, where Van Gogh painted Starry Night over the Rhône . This bold riverscape under the stars is temporarily in London, on display in Tate Britain’s Van Gogh exhibition (until 11 August). The river scene at night remains largely unchanged, although of course the sky in the painting comes from the artist’s imagination.

Vincent van Gogh, Trinquetaille Bridge, 1888, private collection

Then walk along the Rhône embankment towards the bridge which crosses the river to the suburb of Trinquetaille. Although the bridge was bombed and rebuilt to a modern design in 1951, part of the original stonework approach remains on the Arles end. Van Gogh painted Trinquetaille Bridge from the embankment on the southern side. The tall tree now standing there may even have been the sapling in his painting. Félix Rey, the doctor who treated Van Gogh after the ear incident, lived on the upper approach to the bridge at what is now 6 Rue Anatole France.

Five minutes away is the Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles, an exhibition venue which opened in 2014 in a converted 15th century mansion. Curated by Bice Curiger, it mainly shows contemporary art, some that is inspired by the Dutch master. The venue also usually holds summer exhibitions that have some original Van Gogh drawings and paintings. The current displays include Vincent van Gogh: Speed & Aplomb , a show of six paintings that runs until 20 October.

Sadly, Van Gogh’s artistic efforts in Arles were ignored during his lifetime, and the few paintings that he gave to local friends were all sold off by the very early 1900s. The Fondation therefore now plays a key role in bringing back some of his pictures to the city where he produced his finest works.

• For a more detailed travel guide, see my book Studio of the South: Van Gogh in Provence , pp. 188-91.

Martin Bailey is the author of Van Gogh’s Finale: Auvers and the Artist’s Rise to Fame (Frances Lincoln, 2021, available in the UK and US ). He is a leading Van Gogh specialist and investigative reporter for The Art Newspaper . Bailey has curated Van Gogh exhibitions at the Barbican Art Gallery and Compton Verney/National Gallery of Scotland. He was a co-curator of Tate Britain’s The EY Exhibition: Van Gogh and Britain (27 March-11 August 2019).

Martin Bailey’s recent Van Gogh books

Bailey has written a number of other bestselling books, including The Sunflowers Are Mine: The Story of Van Gogh's Masterpiece (Frances Lincoln 2013, available in the UK and US ), Studio of the South: Van Gogh in Provence (Frances Lincoln 2016, available in the UK and US ), Starry Night: Van Gogh at the Asylum (White Lion Publishing 2018, available in the UK and US ) and Van Gogh’s Finale: Auvers and the Artist’s Rise to Fame  (Frances Lincoln 2021, available in the UK and US ). Bailey's Living with Vincent van Gogh: the Homes and Landscapes that Shaped the Artist (White Lion Publishing 2019, available in the UK and US ) provides an overview of the artist’s life. The Illustrated Provence Letters of Van Gogh has been reissued (Batsford 2021, available in the UK and US ).

To contact Martin Bailey, please email [email protected] . Please note that he does not undertake authentications.

Read more from Martin's Adventures with Van Gogh blog   here .

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Travel bucket list idea:

Van Gogh Walk in Arles

Arles, Provence, France

• https://www.arlestourisme.com

Bucket List Experience

The Langlois Bridge

As prime spots where Van Gogh lived and painted, the towns of Arles and Saint-Remy both regret not hanging on to any of Van Gogh’s original works while he was alive. To make up for it, each has set up a self-guided Van Gogh Walk, pinpointing the scenic spots where the master planted his easel.

When doing the walk in Arles, spare some time to see the Espace Van Gogh in the former hospital on Place du Dr Félix Rey, where he had his ear stitched up and was later locked up. Inside you’ll find exhibits chronicling his stay. The hospital’s courtyard has been remodelled to resemble as closely as possible his famous painting ‘Le Jardin de l’Hôtel de Dieu’. You’ll also pass by the Reattu Fine Arts Museum, which houses many of Van Gogh letters, and the famous Café Terrace on the Place du Forum.

Don't miss

After your walk, visit the Van Gogh Foundation on Place Honore Clair, which displays art (paintings, sculpture, photography, texts) in homage to Van Gogh.

Getting there & doing it

For the self-guided walk, pick up information and a map at the Arles tourist office on Boulevard des Lices before setting out – or  download the map  from the website before you go. The walk traces a path across the city, with information boards that include photos of his paintings along the way. The tourist office also produces an excellent little booklet that you can download with information on all of the stops and any associated paintings.

There are several local tour operators that will take you on the walk, either specifically or as part of a broader tour (see our recommendations below of who to go with). The major plus is a knowledgeable guide, who’ll have information, insights and anecdotes on Van Gogh you won’t get if you go it alone.

When to do it

Obviously, you can follow the walk at any time of year, but it’s most picture-perfect when Van Gogh’s favourite flowers are in bloom: go in April and May for the irises, or in late June to early August for the sunflowers.

The Foundation is open all year round, seven days a week, though it closes on Mondays in winter months. The Espace van Gogh is also open all year round, seven days a week, though it closes on Sundays.

Who to go with: organised tours

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Provence, France

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Fascinating Roman, and medieval monuments and memories of Van Gogh, plus a winsome shabby-chic charm.

A lively medieval town bursting with art and creativity, and centrally located for sightseeing in Provence. Host of the superb Avignon Festival.

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Walking in Van Gogh’s Footsteps in Arles

Visiting Arles, travelers tune into the story of Vincent van Gogh. And the city makes it easy. Here’s a little excerpt from our Rick Steves’ Provence & the French Riviera guidebook (and an example of how great it is to have Gene Openshaw’s help in our art coverage):

In the dead of winter in 1888, the 35-year-old Dutch artist Vincent van Gogh left big-city Paris for Provence , hoping to jump-start his floundering career and social life. He was as inspired as he was lonely. Coming from the gray skies and flat lands of the north, Vincent was bowled over by everything Provençal: the sun, bright colors, rugged landscape, and raw people. For the next two years, he painted furiously, cranking out a masterpiece every few days.

Only a few of the 200-plus paintings that Van Gogh did in the south can be found today in the city that so moved him. But in Arles , you can walk the same streets he knew and see places he painted, marked by about a dozen steel-and-concrete “easels,” with photos of the final paintings for then-and-now comparisons. Here are two examples, accompanied by the text from our book.

The Yellow House Easel Vincent arrived in Arles on February 20, 1888, to a foot of snow. He rented a small house on the north side of Place Lamartine. The house was destroyed in 1944 by an errant bridge-seeking bomb, but the four-story building behind it — where you see the brasserie — still stands (find it in the painting). The house had four rooms, including a small studio and the cramped trapezoid-shaped bedroom made famous in paintings. It was painted yellow inside and out, and Vincent named it…“The Yellow House.” In the distance, the painting shows the same bridges you see today, as well as a steam train — which was a rather recent invention in France, allowing people like Vincent to travel greater distances and be jarred by new experiences. (Today’s TGV system continues that trend.) Today’s train line survives but is overgrown as the bridge over the river was destroyed in WWII.

Freezing Arles was buttoned up tight when Vincent arrived, so he was forced to work inside, where he painted still lifes and self-portraits — anything to keep his brush moving. In late March, spring finally arrived. In those days, a short walk from Place Lamartine led to open fields. Donning his straw hat, Vincent set up his easel outdoors and painted quickly, capturing what he saw and felt: the blossoming fruit trees, gnarled olive trees, peasants sowing and reaping, jagged peaks, and windblown fields, all lit by a brilliant sun that drove him to use ever-brighter paints.

Jardin d’Eté Easel Vincent spent many a sunny day painting the leafy Jardin d’Eté. In a letter to his sister, Vincent wrote, “I don’t know whether you can understand that one may make a poem by arranging colors…In a similar manner, the bizarre lines, purposely selected and multiplied, meandering all through the picture may not present a literal image of the garden, but they may present it to our minds as if in a dream.”

Vincent never made real friends, though he desperately wanted to. He palled around with (and painted) his mailman and a Foreign Legionnaire. (The fact that locals pronounced his name “vahn-saw van gog” had nothing to do with his psychological struggles here.)

Also, in my Travelers Café, Cameron just posted a tragically funny (and all too true) tale about keeping the entry for The Last Supper up to date in my guidebook.

5 Replies to “Walking in Van Gogh’s Footsteps in Arles”

Having just been to the Van Gogh museum in Amsterdam and then the Musee d’Orsay in Paris, this article was very interesting to me. I liked the before and after views of the building next to his little yellow house. Van Gogh may have been bipolar with his varying high and low moods. How sad that his paintings were so little appreciated during his short lifetime, and sell for millions today.

I was just in New York City at MoMA and lo and behold I saw Starry Night, not my first time of seeing it in person but I think we tend to forget how remarkable it is! Love this posting about him. Thanks, Judy B Atlanta

I will be visiting Arles this September and will be going on the Van Gogh walked described in Rick’s book. I am looking forward to seeing these easels!

We were in Arles yesterday too and following much of Rick ‘ recommendations, as usual. :)

Thanks for this writeup

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© Stephen McGurk

Walking Tour of Van Gogh's easels in Arles

Discover some of the famous spots where Van Gogh painted

The history of Van Gogh is exposed with a flourish all around Arles as the artist completed some particularly famous paintings while living in the town. This walking tour brings you step by step to each of the places where Van Gogh would have set up his canvas to paint using the renowned Provençal sunlight.

The walking-tour takes you along the winding streets of Arles and out along the Rhône River. It should take around an hour and a half to walk the route, although there are opportunities to stop for a break and soak up the scenery. The loop also takes you past the Musée Réattu and the Van Gogh Foundation so allow extra time if you wish to stop and explore either of these exquisite museums.

The beauty about the tour is that you can start it from anywhere you desire once you have the map and are aware of what the stone easels will look like. I had to double back once or twice after having missed one or two of them, but once I knew what to look for it was no-problem.

Arles possesses some of the quaintest buildings I have seen in France; the narrow streets and cobble stoned roads feel special and inspiration seeps from everything. My first stop is at the garden of the hospital in Arles where Van Gogh was interned after cutting his ear. The sunlight beams in and illuminates the yellow paint on the balconies overhead while the courtyard basks in the heat. The garden is simple yet well-tended and a few other tourists mill around trying not to spoil the experience for each other by being too intrusive.

The next stop is Café Terrace at Night a well-known painting in Place du Forum . I stopped at the café itself for a coffee as it was still quite early in the morning, but if you plan your self-guided walking-tour you could visit here at lunch time and try one of the many great restaurants in the square before moving on.

The tour takes you up past the Van Gogh Foundation, which I thought was so interesting that I spent a full afternoon inside, before heading out onto the wide banks of the Rhône where there are three easels, each from a different vantage point that the great artist painted from. Other people seem to be following the same tour as me, or maybe they have stumbled upon the stone easels by chance and are taking a moment to learn something of this charming city, either way the paintings draw people to them.

The arena is another stop on the walking tour and the painting here invites us to imagine what the crowd must be like on a busy day during a festival or bull-fight. The arena itself is well worth a visit while you are in Arles and it holds a few mysteries up its sleeves.

My own personal favourite sight on the tour was the public park which was the subject of Van Gogh’s painting simply titled “Entrance to the Public Garden, Arles”. The park is small, but has just enough privacy that you can find a little spot and pull out a book to read as you rest your feet. The bust of Van Gogh situated at the entrance is spectacular and I’m sure that during his time spent living here the artist never thought there would be this much appreciation for him in Arles .

Further outside the town are a few other easels and subjects of Van Gogh’s work which require some form of transport to reach. Namely the Pont du Van Gogh which I took a bicycle out to see, the Dance Hall and the Red Vineyards respectively which are just north of Arles and appear in two of the artists paintings.

Arles isn’t a large city by any means, but it does have a lot within its boundaries. The walking tour is a pleasant stroll and can be broken up into as many parts of the day as required although it is important to bring the essentials along with you like water and sun-cream.

Free walking guides in English and French are available from the Tourist Office.

Arles is easily accessible by train or bus from larger hubs in the area including Avignon and Aix-en-Provence .

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Arles and The Camargue: In Van Gogh's Footsteps

Two views of the Camargue. Photographs by Daphne Birdsey

«We've spent the last few days of our trip in and around the city of Arles. The nearby region of the Camargue, also known as the Rhone Delta, is where the Rhone River ends and the Mediterranean Sea begins. Its salty marshland is renowned for its wild, white horses and pink flamingos.»

The Camargue region has been inspired by the Spanish tradition of breeding bulls for races and fights. We visited one such farm, where the owners explained the difference between Camargue and Spanish bulls—the ones in the Camargue are a bit smaller and their horns point up. Furthermore, the Camargue bulls aren't injured in their fights; in fact, they often perform until they are about fourteen or fifteen years old and are respected like soccer stars. Rather than killing the bulls, matadors win money based on how many ribbons they retrieve off the bulls' horns. After showing us how they work with the animals, the owners of the farm invited us to enjoy a kir (a traditional French drink of white wine with a splash of cassis) at their lovely ranch-style home.

The spirit of Vincent Van Gogh presides over all that we see here—from the many views he painted of the Camargue (the reeds, the thatched huts, the people, the wild animals) to the ones he captured in the city of Arles. He created three hundred paintings during the fifteen months that he lived in the city. We visited the Hotel Dieu, a hospital where he stayed for a short period in 1888, which has re-created the colorful garden he painted, and I had lunch outside the yellow Café Terrace that he so beautifully portrayed at night. One can walk in his footsteps to see many more such scenes in person.

The author (right) with Curator Maryan Ainsworth

We also saw important Roman ruins, including an arena and amphitheater, as well as the Romanesque Church of St. Trophime, a French treasure and one of the starting points of the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, Spain.

The Church of St. Trophime. Photograph by Daphne Birdsey

Daphne Birdsey

Daphne Birdsey is an associate development officer in the Development Department.

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Provence highlights : arles van gogh.

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Arles Van Gogh : a must-see in Southern France

Arles and Van Gogh make for a fascinating artistic duo! Arles, a town in the south of France, played a significant role in the life and work of the renowned Dutch painter Vincent van Gogh.

Van Gogh lived in Arles from 1888 to 1889, where he created some of his most iconic works. The sunny landscapes, sunflower fields, and picturesque architecture of the town greatly inspired his art. Iconic places like the Café de Nuit and the Bedroom in Arles were immortalized on canvas by Van Gogh.

The famous painting “Starry Night” was also created in Arles, capturing the starry sky above the town. Van Gogh found an endless source of inspiration in Arles, although this period was also marked by episodes of mental struggles.

Today, Arles pays tribute to its connection with Van Gogh through sites like the Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles, which showcases works of contemporary artists while celebrating the legacy of the Dutch master. It’s a captivating artistic and historical journey into a pivotal period in Van Gogh’s life.

Arles Van Gogh : on the footsteps of the painter !

The mansion of van gogh, the coffee shop of van gogh, arles van gogh : the mansion of the painter.

Vincent van Gogh’s residence in Arles, often referred to as the “Yellow House” (Maison Jaune), is a place of historical and artistic significance. Van Gogh lived in this vibrant yellow-painted house from September 1888 to May 1889. During this time, he produced some of his most celebrated works.

The Yellow House served as both Van Gogh’s home and studio. It was here that he hoped to create an artist’s collective, envisioning a space where like-minded painters could work together. However, this dream was short-lived, and Van Gogh’s time in Arles was marked by both artistic brilliance and personal challenges, including the famous incident where he cut off part of his own ear.

Though the original Yellow House was destroyed during World War II, a reconstruction effort was made, and today visitors to Arles can see a replica of Van Gogh’s residence. The site offers a glimpse into the environment that fueled the artist’s creativity during his time in this picturesque Provencal town.

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The coffee shop of Van Gogh in Arles

Van Gogh’s association with a café in Arles is often linked to the famous painting “Café Terrace at Night” (original title: “Le Café de Nuit”). The café depicted in the painting is believed to be the Café Van Gogh, located at 9 Place du Forum in Arles.

In this iconic painting, Van Gogh captured the vibrant colors of the night, portraying the café terrace bathed in warm yellow light. The starry sky above adds a touch of magic to the scene. The Café Terrace at Night is not only a beautiful work of art but also a representation of Van Gogh’s fascination with the play of light and color.

Today, the Café Van Gogh in Arles is still in operation, and visitors can enjoy a meal or a drink in the same place that inspired one of Van Gogh’s masterpieces. It’s a wonderful blend of art, history, and the everyday life of Arles that continues to attract admirers of Van Gogh’s work.

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Tours, activities and museums in Arles

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In the Footsteps of Van Gogh in Provence from Avignon

Discover the provençcal landscapes that inspired Vincent Van Gogh! You'll visit St Rémy de Provence, Les Baux de Provence, the Carrières de Lumière and Arles.

Arles, Les Baux and Saint Remy de Provence tour from Aix en Provence

Book this full day tour in Arles, Les Baux and Saint Remy de Provence tour from Aix en Provence with Musement. Have a taste of the French Provence in three charming villages. Admire the breathtaking view from the medieval village Les Baux de Provence and Enjoy a photo stop at Les Antiques and St Paul de Mausole.

Entrance tickets to Montmajour Abbey

Book your entrance tickets to visit the Montmajour Abbey in Arles. Learn more about Van Gogh's fascination for the abbey.

Entrance tickets to the archaeological site of Glanum

Book your entrance tickets to visit the archaeological site of Glanum in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence!

Visit Arles, Les Baux de Provence and St Remy de Provence

Get the most out of Provence with this full-day excursion to Saint Rémy de Provence, Arles and the medieval village of Les Baux de Provence.

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Experiences in arles, introducing arles.

Located in the South of France, the city of Arles has a long history and a picturesque charm. It isn't a coincidence if the Dutch painter Vincent Van Gogh lived there from 1888 to 1889 and produced over 300 paintings and drawings during that time.

Arles has important Roman remnants, most of which have been listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 1981: The Gallo-Roman theatre, the arena or amphitheatre, the Alyscamps (Roman necropolis), the Thermae of Constantine, the cryptoporticus, Arles Obelisk, Barbegal aqueduct and mill.

Arles is also known for its photography festival, Rencontres d'Arles, that takes place every year and the bull fights conducted in the amphitheatre...

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The Fondation is closed to prepare ˗ˏˋ ☆ ˎˊ˗ VAN GOGH THE STARS  ˗ˏˋ ☆ ˎˊ˗  Opening on the 1st of June

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Vincent van Gogh

Life in arles.

On 20 February 1888, Vincent van Gogh arrived in Arles. Before that, he had lived in Paris for two years, where he had developed a thoroughly modern style of painting.

During the more than fourteen months which he spent in Arles, he created a multitude of paintings and drawings, many of which are nowadays seen as highlights of late 19th century art.

Tired of the busy city life and the cold northern climate, Van Gogh had headed South in search of warmer weather, and above all to find the bright light and colours of Provence so as to further modernize his new way of painting. According to his brother Theo, he went “first to Arles to get his bearings and then probably on to Marseille.”

That plan changed however: Van Gogh found in the beautiful countryside of Arles what he had been looking for, and never went to Marseille.

At first, the weather in the South was unseasonably cold, but after a few weeks Van Gogh was able to set out and discover subjects for his works. Vincent had a collection of Japanese prints, had read about Japan and become a great admirer. He had hoped to find the light, colours and harmony in the South that he knew from these prints. He did, and started to paint very Japanese paintings of blossoming trees and the Pont de Langlois. During the summer he drew and painted harvest scenes.

Painting the human figure had always been one of Van Gogh’s most important artistic goals, and he had a special love for peasant paintings. In Arles, he decided that he wanted to modernize this genre, by choosing the subject of the sower. He also painted portraits and still-lives, and confessed to Theo : “I am painting with the gusto of a Marseillais eating bouillabaisse”.

In May, Van Gogh rented the yellow house, in which he lived and set up his studio. He had hopes of establishing a collective studio in the South, were other painters would join him.

On 23 October, Paul Gauguin came to Arles. The two artists lived and painted together for two months. It was a time filled with great mutual inspiration, but in the end their characters and artistic temperaments clashed.

On 23 December, Van Gogh suffered a mental breakdown – probably a first sign of his illness – and cut off a part of his left ear. Gauguin left, and Van Gogh’s dream of a studio with other painters was shattered.

He spent some more time in the hospital after a second breakdown in February 1889. He continued to work in Arles for a few more months, but had himself interned voluntarily in the asylum in Saint-Rémy on 8 May 1889.

Arles cityscapes

During his career as an artist, Van Gogh lived in several cities – The Hague, Antwerp, Paris, Arles – and in all of them he found subjects for his work. Except for some drawings of Antwerp, he always showed a remarkable lack of interest in cities’ old monuments. Van Gogh sought his inspiration mainly in everyday life and relics from the past did not hold much interest for him.

Arles proved to be no different. With the exception of the sarcophagi of the Alyscamps and the courtyard of the hospital where he was treated after his breakdowns, no ancient monuments feature in Van Gogh’s work. He painted ordinary subjects such as a viaduct beneath the railway, and bridges, most notably the iron structure of the former Trinquetaille bridge. The banks of the river Rhône within the city found their way into his work, as did the Canal Roubine du Roi, just northeast of the town. Van Gogh had an unusual talent when it came to transforming such simple themes into original and captivating compositions.

He admired the serene qualities of parks and gardens, and painted both in Arles. The public garden next to the Roman Theatre greatly appealed to him and was the subject of four paintings, which he called “The Poet’s Garden”.

Several of his cityscapes became true icons in his oeuvre. The small house on Place Lamartine, in which he lived (no longer exists), is the central feature of the painting commonly known as “The Yellow House”, but which Van Gogh called The Street. A remarkable scene was painted at night: Van Gogh set up his easel near the Café de la Nuit on the Place du Forum and painted the café, bathing in yellow light, against a starry sky.

During Gauguin’s stay in Arles, the two artists made several paintings of the Alyscamps on the south eastern edge of the old town. All of them are very atmospheric autumn scenes, as is appropriate for this ancient necropolis.

During his second stay in the hospital of Arles, the 16th-17th century Hôtel-Dieu, Van Gogh made a painting and a drawing of its beautiful courtyard, recording his surroundings during this difficult stage of his life.

A view of Arles is included among many other paintings and drawings, such as “Field with Flowers near Arles”, in which irises in the foreground dominate the image. In these works, the town functions as a backdrop to the landscape.

Arles countryside

The topography of many of the landscape paintings and drawings, which Van Gogh made in the countryside of Arles, can no longer be established with any certainty. Since his time, much of the region where he worked has been further cultivated, while orchards and wheat fields have disappeared, as well as farmhouses and other elements of Van Gogh’s images. In several cases, however, where and what he painted is well known.

Located just over two kilometres to the south of Arles, the Pont de Réginelle (or Réginal), commonly known as the Pont de Langlois after the former bridge-keeper, was a particularly favourite subject for Van Gogh during March-May 1888. It features in several paintings and drawings. With its elegant shape and slender structure, the Pont de Langlois was eminently suitable for the harmonious Japanese atmosphere, which Van Gogh sought to express in his work. The bridge has since been destroyed, but then replaced by a similar construction.

The building of the medieval abbey of Montmajour took several centuries on a 43-metre high hill, five to six kilometres to the northeast of Arles. It was famous and even recommended to tourists in the Baedeker guide to the South of France as being out of the way, but worth the trip.

Van Gogh, who never minded a long walk, discovered it soon after his arrival. Although usually not enthused by ancient monuments, he was captivated by these ruins set in the middle of a large plain and surrounded by an impressive landscape.

In the second week of May 1888, the abbey and its environs became the subject of a set of seven drawings, known as the “Montmajour series”. These middle-size drawings were followed by a second Montmajour series in July. On that occasion, Van Gogh worked on larger sheets and created six drawings, which are real highlights in his oeuvre.

Montmajour overlooks the large plains of La Crau, which can be seen in two of these six drawings. La Crau also became a major inspiration for Van Gogh. In his famous “Harvest”, made as a painting and also three drawings, he depicted the harvesting of wheat, while adding a very visible blue cart as the focal point of the works. One of the last paintings he made around Arles was “La Crau with Peach Trees in Blossom”.

Light of the South

Before his move to Arles, Van Gogh had never been to the South. The warm and bright southern light and its effect on colour was one of the lures that made him leave Paris in February 1888.

Van Gogh was not alone in his search for light that had stronger qualities than the cool light of the North. Claude Monet had worked in Bordighera on the Italian Riviera in 1884, and would settle in Antibes for a while in 1888. Paul Cézanne lived and worked in his hometown of Aix-en-Provence. Adolphe Monticelli, who was greatly admired by Van Gogh, had lived in Marseille, while Paul Gauguin travelled to Martinique in 1887 to work in the light of the Tropics. Van Gogh would probably also have heard about the qualities of the light in the South of France from Paul Signac, who painted there, and from Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, who was from Albi.

He had expected that the southern light and colour would resemble the atmosphere of his Japanese prints, and was extremely pleased when this proved to be true. To Emile Bernard he declared: “This part of the world seems to me as beautiful as Japan for the clearness of the atmosphere and the gay colour effects.”* Many of his letters from Arles pay tribute to the marvellous light and a newly discovered world of colour.

Van Gogh’s work from Arles is often associated with the colour yellow, which plays a prominent role in his works from that period. Van Gogh worshipped the Provençal yellow sun and its sulphur or gold coloured light. It flooded the landscape and enabled him to give his paintings the strong, unbroken colours that he had yearned for. The modern artist of the future, in Van Gogh’s view, would be a colorist as the world has never seen. The southern light was of prime importance for a modern palette, and he more than ever distanced himself from the grey palette of his Dutch years under a northern light.

Although his long days outside in the hot weather sometimes tired him, he felt the light and the heat improved people’s health and mood. The sun, which plays a key role in so many of his works from Arles, became almost a deity: “Ah, those who don’t believe in the sun down here are truly blasphemous.”**

Original French: * “Le pays me parait aussi beau que le Japon pour la limpidité de l’atmosphère et les effets de couleur gaie.” ** “Ah, ceux qui ne croient pas au soleil d’ici sont bien impies.”

Colours and brushstrokes

During his Dutch years, Van Gogh worked in dark tones and grey colours, applying his paint with a heavy, expressive brushstroke. He studied the theories of colour, as used by Eugène Delacroix and learned about contrasts, but with his sombre palette failed to make them work.

After his move to Paris in early 1886, he realized where he had gone wrong. With his new command of bright and strong colours, he was now able to work both in subtle contrasts (such as yellow and green), and with the strongest colour contrasts possible. That last one is a complementary contrast: red against green, blue against orange, or yellow against purple. At the same time, he experimented with the lively brushstroke of the impressionists, as well the different styles and techniques used by his avant-garde friends. He came to admire Adolphe Monticelli, who painted in strong colour contrasts with a heavy impasto. Japanese prints taught him how to work with large areas of bright colour.

Thus armed with a vast new array of possibilities, Van Gogh came to Arles to further develop his modern style. The bright light of Provence led him to even more daring colour adventures, with Delacroix as his guide. Complementary contrasts enabled him to make his colours even more expressive. The Sower of June 1888 was an ambitious attempt to make a modern figure piece by means of colour. Van Gogh used the complementary contrast of a purple field and a yellow sky, and then painted yellow lines around the field, and purple lines around the sky.

His use of red and green in The Night Café in September was quite exceptional. They dominate the painting, and Van Gogh explained: ‘I’ve tried to express the terrible human passions with the red and the green.’*

Amongst his fellow avant-garde artists, Van Gogh stands out because of his forceful impasto. Artists like Gauguin, Bernard and other painters working in Pont-Aven, worked with prominent areas of colour, too, but they preferred to use a subdued, flat brushstroke. Van Gogh’s work from Arles is the opposite. In most of his best works a prominent role is given to the handling of the paint. He sometimes used a more structured pattern of brushstrokes, such as in the background of his Still life with Sunflowers. In other works he applied the paint in a more spontaneous, lively yet always controlled manner. In all cases, colour and brushstroke merged together to create Van Gogh’s uniquely expressive style.

* Original French: “J’ai cherché à exprimer avec le rouge et le vert les terribles passions humaines.”

Drawings in Arles

Van Gogh is generally perceived as being one of the finest draughtsmen of the impressionist and post-impressionist era. While many of his earliest drawings were rather clumsy, he went back to work again and again so as to master this craft. For the first three years of his career, he worked mainly as a draughtsman. A good command of drawing was traditionally considered to be an essential basis for painting, and Van Gogh cherished that principle.

As a result, he became an excellent draughtsman long before his paintings started to show real promise. When he worked in Paris from early 1886 to early 1888, where he developed a very personal modern style, he concentrated on painting, not on drawing.

Van Gogh made drawings using various techniques, such as works in pencil, black chalk and other dark materials, as well as drawings in watercolour. His most outstanding talent, however, was with the pen. His virtuoso command of such a tool came to a head in Arles when he discovered a type of reed that he could cut and turn into a pen. This reed pen enabled him to make drawings with a remarkable range of lines, coils and dots, which are extremely lively, yet always controlled.

His first drawings in Arles date from March 1888. Japan was always on Van Gogh’s mind in that period, and these early drawings are the approximate size of the Japanese prints that he collected. The great draughtsmanship of Japanese artists was an example for him: ‘The Japanese draws quickly, very quickly, like a flash of lightning, because his nerves are finer, his feeling simpler.’* Van Gogh must have seen Japanese brush drawings while he was living in Paris, and some of his drawings stylistically resemble these works. He also made several watercolours with broad, flat areas of colour, which were inspired by Japanese woodblock prints.

Van Gogh produced several figure and portrait drawings, including a young Zouave and the postman Joseph Roulin. Landscapes, however, dominate by far. At Montmajour, overlooking the great plain of La Crau, he made two series of landscape drawings with his reed pen. The first one consists of smaller sheets, while for the second series he used large, whole sheets. The so-called second Montmajour series is an astonishing achievement, some drawings show a just how he had now mastered the Japanese technique, while others are even more refined. La Crau was also the location where Van Gogh studied harvesting, the subject of many paintings and drawings from the summer of 1888.

There is a strong relationship between Van Gogh’s drawings and his paintings. Sometimes a drawing acted as a model for a painting, at other times he would make drawings after paintings. Three series of “drawings after paintings” were sent to his friends John Russell and Emile Bernard, and to his brother Theo.

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Introduction to Arles Tour with Roman Ruins and Van Gogh Highlights

• Arles Amphitheatre
• Roman Theatre of Arles
• Saint Trophime Church
• various Van Gogh painting sites

• Visit the fascinating ruins of the Roman Empire in Provence
• Discover the charming streets which inspired some of Vincent Van Gogh’s greatest works

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• buildings, squares and bridges which inspired Van Gogh's work
• 2 hours with an expert guide 

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Arles Walking Tour

Home » Europe » France » Arles Walking Tour

By Vicky · Published Sep. 15th, 2023 · Updated Sep. 21st, 2023

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A walking tour of Arles is a wonderful way to explore the Provençal town’s rich history, Roman heritage, vibrant culture and Van Gogh links.

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This walk starts from the Place de la Republique , a square in the centre of Arles. It’s a 15-minute walk from Arles train station or a 5-minute walk from the Parking du Centre (€2 per hour, larger cars will struggle with the tight entrance).

Arles Walking Tour Map

Get the route by downloading the .gpx or .kml file below. For navigation with Maps.me on your mobile phone, simply download the .kml file and open to add it to the Maps.me bookmarks.

Tips for Arles Walking Tour

• There are several tourist passes you can buy if visiting Arles, see the box below for details.
• Make sure to visit the amazing Pont du Gard and Nîmes nearby!

For more walking tours and hikes, check out the lovely walk around Les Baux-de-Provence , or a Bird Walk in the Camargue . Alternatively, see our France Hiking Page .

Top Sights in Arles

On this self-guided walking tour you’ll see the main sights and attractions of Arles. You don’t need to spend more than one day in Arles just to walk around, but you need at least a couple of days if you visit a few of the museums and old Roman attractions. Arles also makes a good base for exploring the surrounding region. This is a self-guided walking tour, you can find a guided walking tour of Arles here *.

• Place de la Republique
• St Trophime Cloisters
• St Trophime Cathedral
• Cryptoportico
• Roman Theatre
• Roman Amphitheatre
• Musée Réattu
• Thermes de Constantin
• van Gogh Foundation
• Place du Forum
• Arlaten Museum
• Espace Van Gogh

You can also some popular sights and attractions in Arles that are slightly further from the centre. You can also walk to the Alyscamps Necropolis , Archaeology Museum , or the Luma Arles Museum but it will make the walking tour a bit longer. Additionally, a 10-minute bus ride away from Arles is the Abbaye de Montmajour , a beautiful Abbey with lots to do. The Camargue Museum is a 25-minute bus ride from Arles, or you can go on a great Camargue Safari from Arles *. You travel in an open-air vehicle and can see flamingoes, the wild Carmague horses, bulls, and birdlife!

Combined Ticket Passes for Arles

There are several combined tickets you can get to see all the best sights in Arles. If you’re staying in Arles for one or two days, the combined ticket or Pass Liberté are good options. The Pass Avantage is only useful if you are staying for a bit longer, else you won’t be able to visit everything that’s included.

• Pass Avantage €19/16 (valid for 6 months): 6 monuments + the Réattu Museum + the Arlaten Museum + the Archeological Museum + the Camargue Museum
• Pass Liberté €15/13 (valid for 1 month): 4 monuments of your choice + the Réattu Museum + the Arlaten Museum or the Archeological Museum or the Camargue Museum
• Combined ticket €9/7 (2 consecutive days): Amphitheater + Roman Theater or Alyscamps + Saint-Trophime’s Cloister

Arles Monuments list: Amphitheater (€9/7), Roman Theatre (€5/4), Baths of Constantine (€5/4), Cryptoportico (€5/4), Alyscamps Cemetery (€5/4), Saint-Trophime’s cloister (€6/5). Opening hours of these monuments: May-Sep 9am-7pm, Mar, Apr & Oct 9am-6pm, Nov-Feb 10:30am-4:30pm.

Museums in Arles

The best museums in Arles are probably the Archeological Museum which displays a lot of Roman artifacts, and the Museon Arlaten which is a super interesting ethnographic museum.

Arles Walking Tour Route

This walking tour starts from the Place de la Republique in the centre of Arles. The Tourist Office * (open 9am-12:45pm & 2-4:45pm) is 1 minute south of here, just across the main road if you want more information or to pick up some maps or leaflets.

1. Place de la Republique

The Place de la Republique * is the central square in Arles, dominated by the Hotel de Ville and a 4th-century Roman obelisk in the centre. There are several historic sights around the square, including the St Trophime Cloister, the St Trophime Cathedral and the Cryptoporticos. There are several cafes around the edges of the square and it’s a nice place to start a walking tour of Arles.

Directions: The next attractions in Arles are all around this square.

2. St Trophime Cloister

Key Information: Open May-Sep 9am-7pm, Mar, Apr & Oct 9am-6pm, Nov-Feb 10:30am-4:30pm. Tickets are €6/5 or part of a combined ticket.

The St Trophime Cloister * is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a beautiful sanctuary in the centre of Arles. There are many information boards within the cloisters in both French and English that bring the history of the cloister to life. The cloisters date from the 21th-14th centuries with a mix of earlier Romanesque and later Gothic styles.

3. St Trophime Cathedral

St Trophime Cathedral * is a large Romanesque Catholic church. The front on the square is richly carved with depictions of events from the bible. On the front, the scenes are mainly from the Apocalyse, with the lions representing sin. The inside is also wonderful and full of artworks such as carvings, tapestries, statues and side chapels.

Finding Van Gogh in Arles

There are several sights of interest in Arles for those who are fans of Vincent Van Gogh. Vincent van Gogh spent 16 months in Arles, arriving in 1888. He painted over 300 works during his stay. He then left for Saint-Rémy-de-Provence (45 minutes drive northeast).

There’s a special Van Gogh Circuit in Arles where you can visit places that you can recognise from van Gogh’s paintings. However, most of them have changed quite a bit since van Gogh was here so don’t expect any exact replicas! The best spots are mentioned below and marked as viewpoints on the map of this walking tour.

•  In Place du Forum you can see the cafe in the painting Cafe Terrace at Night.
• L’Espace Van-Gogh is the garden of the former hospital where van Gogh stayed and painted The Asylum Garden at Arles.
• At the Trinquetaille Bridge viewpoint, you can see the staircase in the painting Trinquetaille Bridge in Arles, though it’s a bit obscured by a tree now.
• The painting Les Alyscamps was created in the Alyscamps necropolis and shows an alleyway of trees.

4. Cryptoportiques

Key Information: Open May-Sep 9am-7pm, Mar, Apr & Oct 9am-6pm, Nov-Feb 10:30am-4:30pm. Tickets are €5/4 or part of a combined ticket.

The Cryptoportiques * are the foundations of what used to be a large Roman forum, though now only the much smaller Place du Forum remains above ground. A cryptoporticus is an underground vaulting system that supports the structures on top, often with arches.

Once you descend the stairway, it’s lovely and cool and a series of underground chambers and archways. There aren’t any English translations inside but there are photos, maps and diagrams which help explain the layout and history. It can be quite eerie underground, especially if there aren’t too many other people there.

Directions: Leave the square towards the centre of Arles and take the first right along Rue de la Calade. You’ll soon see the stone ruins on your right.

5. Roman Theatre

The Roman Theatre * is a peaceful place which you can explore at your leisure. There are beautiful columns and classic semi-circular seating. It was built around 12 BC during the reign of Augustus Caesar, and at the time up to 10,000 spectators could watch events here. It’s not a huge area and you can see a lot of it from the outside, but with a combination ticket it is worth seeing.

Directions: Head past the theatre and turn left. Walk around the amphitheatre, via a viewpoint, to the entrance on its northern end.

6. Arles Roman Amphitheatre

Key Information: Open May-Sep 9am-7pm, Mar, Apr & Oct 9am-6pm, Nov-Feb 10:30am-4:30pm. Tickets are €9/7 or part of a combined ticket.

The R oman Amphitheatre *, also known as Les Arènes was built around 90AD. It’s one of the best-preserved amphitheatres in the world, and you can explore this ancient arena, which once hosted gladiator battles and other events. Its seating capacity is roughly 20,000. Today it’s often used for concerts and bullfights.

There’s not too much to see inside, but you are free to wander about as you want and there’s a good view from the top of the tower. A couple of information boards near the entrance (on the north side) explain its history.

Directions: Walk down the wide steps, continue a short distance and head left through the narrow, atmospheric lane. At the T-junction, turn right and take the second left. The Réattu Museum is in the old building on your right.

7. Réattu Museum

Key Information: Open Tue-Sun 10-5/6pm. Tickets are €8/6.

The Reattu Museum ( Website , Tripadvisor Reviews *) is located in a lovely building, formerly a priory, near the Rhone. It’s not huge and there is a mix of more and less famous artworks inside. These include paintings, sculptures photographs and drawings from a wide time range. The museum is named after the Arles-born painter Jacques Réattu and includes many of his works, along with others by Picasso and many other artists. All captions and explanations are in French.

Directions: Turn right out of the museum and you’ll see the next stop.

8. Thermes de Constantin

The Thermes de Constantin *, or Roman Baths of Constantine, are well-preserved and provide insight into the daily life of the Romans. You can see some of the baths and the complex without actually entering and there’s not too much extra to see inside. There are scenic views of the River Rhone nearby and quite a few different rooms with baths of different temperatures. The baths become more interesting if you buy a short guide that brings the Thermes to life. Apart from that, there are only a couple of information boards explaining everything.

Directions: Continue past the Thermes, head left then right and you’ll see the van Gogh Foundation on your left.

9. Vincent van Gogh Foundation

Key Information: Open daily 10-6pm. Tickets are €10/8/3.

The Vincent van Gogh Foundation ( Website , Tripadvisor Reviews *) focuses on how modern artists are influenced by van Gogh. There are not many paintings by van Gogh himself, instead there are many letters written by famous artists and similar displays. It’s interesting if you’re into art and the art world, but you’ll be disappointed if you expect to see a lot of famous van Gogh paintings. They do have interesting exhibits sometimes, so make such to find out what is on.

Directions: Take a walk to the Rhone River. Head left at the river to the bridge, where you can see the Stairway Trinquetaille as painted by van Gogh. After the viewpoint continue onwards and take the first left. At the peaceful square turn left. Cross the main road and wind your way to the Place du Forum.

10. Place du Forum

The lively Place du Forum * was the centre of Arles in Roman times. It’s now a popular square filled with restaurants and cafes, but you can still see the columns of the Forum in the walls of a hotel at the far end. Le Café Van Gogh is also in this square, famous for being in van Gogh’s painting Café Terrace at Night. You can get a photo that looks fairly similar to his painting, though the cafe itself is overpriced as you might expect.

Directions: Walk down the street past the cafe, then turn right at the end. At the corner turn left and you’ll reach the entrance to the next museum.

11. Arlaten Museum

Key Information: Open Tue-Sun 9:30-6pm. Tickets are €8/5.

The Arlaten Museum ( Website , Tripadvisor Reviews *) has been extensively renovated recently and is now a highly recommended ethnographic museum. It documents the social and cultural life of people living in Provence 150-100 years ago. In this unique museum, artifacts tell stories from different ages. There are enough English translations and you could easily spend a few hours here.

Directions: Head down the street opposite the museum and take the first right.

12. Espace Van Gogh

Key Information: Open daily 8am-6pm, free entry.

The Espace Van Gogh * is located in the Old Arles Hospital where van Gogh was treated after cutting off his ear. Doctors diagnosed him with mania and delirium and he often sat painting in this courtyard garden while recovering. Van Gogh painted ‘The Asylum Garden at Arles’ here and it’s easy to recognise, perhaps the least changed vista since van Gogh’s time. Around the edge of the courtyard there are now little souvenir shops and expensive cafes.

This is the end of the Arles self-guided walking tour. You can now head back to explore more streets of the centre, or discover some of the other attractions slightly further from the centre of Arles.

Things to Do in Arles further from the Centre

Archeological museum.

Key Information: Open daily 9:30am-6:00pm, closed Tuesdays. Tickets cost €8/€5, or in a combined ticket. Audioguide recommended, but there are also captions in English.

The Archeological Museum, also known as the Musee Departemental Arles Antique ( Website , Tripadvisor Reviews *) is a 15-20 minute walk from the centre of Arles, or a 10-minute bus ride. The Archeological Museum sounds like it might be dull, but it’s actually one of the best museums in Arles, so worth the short distance to get there. You could easily spend a few hours here to see everything.

The museum is full of amazing Roman artifacts, the highlight being a complete boat, or river barge, found recently in the nearby Rhône. There are also statues, mosaics, and much more, with the artifacts all well-displayed. You’ll learn a lot about the history of Arles and the Roman period while you’re here.

Les Alyscamps Cemetery

Les Alyscamps Cemetery *, or Necropolis, is a 10-minute walk from the central Place de la Republique. It’s famous for its ancient sarcophagi and picturesque avenues of trees (that van Gogh painted). It’s quite a serene and atmospheric place to explore, though can be a little creepy. It’s an ancient Roman Necropolis but continued to be used for many centuries afterward. In Medieval times was one of the most famous cemeteries in the world.

During this period, Roman cities forbade burials inside the walls, hence the location of this cemetery a little distant from the centre. Many of the sarcophagi have unfortunately been damaged or removed, but you can also see the little Church of St Honorat and a chapel, both of which are rather lovely.

Key Information: Open daily 10-7:30pm. Free entry. Book online in advance during busy periods.

The Luma Arles ( Website , Tripadvisor Reviews *) is a 10-minute walk from the centre of Arles, not far from the Alyscamps. It’s a new exhibition space and art museum with both French and English captions. The artworks are variable, but the building itself is architecturally interesting, designed by Frank Gehry (famous for the Sydney Opera House among others). It used to be an abandoned railway yard, now it’s a futuristic steel tower that can be seen from far away. On your visit you can climb the tower for great views.

The grounds are perhaps the most interesting part, full of old mainly train-related buildings, though these are not well-explained. Remember to ask at the reception for a map. There are also a couple of cafes in the complex, though they tend to be overpriced.

Camargue Museum

Key Information: Open daily 9am-6:00pm. Tickets cost €7/4. Directions: Take Bus A50 from Antonelle bus stop to the Camargue Museum. The bus takes 30 minutes.

The Camargue Museum shows how life in the Camargue has changed over time. It’s housed in a renovated sheepfold in the heart of the Camargue. You can go on a lovely walk from here, best experienced early mornings or later in the afternoon. You can also explore the Camargue on a safari from Arles *.

Abbaye de Montmajour

Key Information: Open daily Apr-May 10am-5pm, June-Sept 10am-6.15pm, Oct-Mar 10am-5pm and closed Mondays. Tickets are €6, or free for under 26 year-olds living in the EU. Directions : Take the 702 Bus (€2.10, takes 7 mins) from Arles train station or Gorodiche bus stop.

The Abbaye de Montmajour ( Website , Tripadvisor Reviews *) is a beautiful Abbey situated in the countryside just outside Arles. Benedictine monks founded the abbey in 948 and the cloisters are really beautiful. The architecture is interesting as it has developed over time, and incorporates styles widely varying in time. There’s lots of information, in English as well as French, and it’s all well-presented. Don’t miss the climb up the central tower, from which there are great views. You could spend 2-3 hours here and walk around the nearby trails.

Best Places to Stay in Arles

Arles has many places to stay, from budget hostels to fancy hotels and everything in between. Check out the best hotels and apartments in Arles below:

• Best Western Atrium *: A good value hotel very close to the centre of Arles. You can find free parking in the streets behind the hotel. There’s also an outdoor rooftop pool with good views of the city.
• Hôtel de l’Amphithéâtre *: A hotel in a heritage building in the town centre with lovely rooms and friendly staff. It’s 10 minutes walk to the nearest parking garage, you can’t drive to the hotel itself.
• Hôtel La Muette *: A typical provençal style hotel located in an old building with plenty of character and charming rooms. Nearest parking 250 metres away.
• Aux Alyscamps Apartment *: A very good value two-bedroom apartment with a fully equipped kitchen, washing machine and a balcony. Additionally, there is free parking just outside, though the apartment is a short walk from the city centre.
• Maison Arles *: A lovely 3-bedroom little house with a fully equipped kitchen and everything else you would expect. Free parking just outside. It’s a short walk to the city centre.

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Arles: From Roman settlement to Van Gogh’s town haven (Provence)

• Post category: Provence & French Riviera
• Post author: Nassie Angadi

The small town of Arles in Provence, was once front and center at the crossroads of history. This was once an important Roman settlement on the crossroads of the Rhône river and the Mediterranean sea, as Caesar and his Empire expanded in Gaul (old France) .

Arles is famous for its magnificent amphitheatre, forum, and other Roman buildings , a city that had prospered from trade and commerce. Compared to other nearby Roman cities like Nimes or Marseille , it also has managed to preserve many of its artefacts and ruins.

These days Arles is most famous for being the home of Vincent Van Gogh, whose incredible paintings often featured the city. With plenty of provençale charm, Roman ruins, and magnificent architecture, it is easy to see why Van Gogh was so inspired.

Today, it is a city with plenty of picturesque streets, beautiful architecture, wonderful museums and galleries. For nature lovers, Arles is also on the edge of a large natural reserve called the Camargue .

So with that said, if you are planning a trip to Arles, let’s have a look at the top things to see and do in the city, shall we? Allons-y!

16. Buy some souvenirs

Arles, situated in the southern region of Provence, France, boasts a rich and diverse history that dates back to ancient times. It is known that the Ligurians (tribe from north-west Italy) lived around here in the 8th century BCE, along with the Celts .

rles evolved into a significant Roman city known as Arelate during the Roman Empire.

Its strategic location along the Rhône River contributed to its prosperity, becoming a vital maritime and trading hub. The city witnessed grand developments under Julius Caesar, who founded the Roman colony known as Arelate in 46 BCE.

During the Roman period, Arles emerged as a thriving urban center, featuring impressive structures like the Amphitheatre and various other Roman marvels, including theaters, temples, and the Alyscamps necropolis.

Arles remained a pivotal center of Roman influence until the decline of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century CE. Over the centuries, Arles experienced periods of turmoil, including invasions in the area by various tribal groups including the muslim Saracens entering through Spain.

The city also witnessed significant political turmoil during the Middle Ages, caught between Kingdom of France and Duchies of Burgundy and Provence. Arles has remained an economic center throughout its history as a major port on the river Rhône.

Today it is blossoming tourist city attracting thousands of visitors every year, while keeping its historical heritage alive.

Things to do in Arles

1. amphitheatre.

The city in southern France has a long history, having considerable importance in the Roman province of Gallia Narbonensis . A clear sign of the city’s importance is the Arles Amphitheatre, that served as a stadium for entertainment and sporting events in the old empire.

It was built in 90AD, 10 years after the Colosseum was completed in Rome. While the one in Rome is larger holding 65,000 people, the Arles amphitheatre can hold around 20,000. Quite impressive for a town that still only has a population of around 50,000.

Tickets cost around €7 per person, but there are a couple of multi-attraction tickets that you can purchase to visit several of the Roman ruins together.

2. Roman Theatre

Within a few 100 yards of the Arles amphitheatre is the Roman theatre. While gladiators provided the entertainment in the amphitheatre, this Roman theatre was for plays and musical acts.

The Roman theatre is actually older than the amphitheatre, having been completed nearly 100 years earlier in 12 BC. It was built to seat around 10,000 people. There is a similar arena in Paris, called the Arènes de Lutèce .

At the time, it was highly decorated with statues and sculptures. The famous  Venus of Arles , which is now in the Louvre museum , was discovered here during excavations of the ancient theatre.

3. Fondation Van Gogh

About 5 minutes away from the old roman ruins is the very modern building of the Fondation Van Gogh dedicated to the works of the artist in Arles.

It is in this city that Van Gogh painted many of his famous pictures including the bedroom where he lived for 14 months.

Van Gogh also invited the artist Paul Gauguin to Arles and the two artists lived and painted together for a couple of months. It is also here that Van Gogh suffered a mental breakdown, and cut off a part of his left ear.

He would eventually commit himself to an asylum in nearby St. Remy de Provence . He eventually killed himself at the age of 37 in Auvers-sur-Oise, a suburb outside Paris.

You can take a private tour exploring Arles and around Provence as Van Gogh saw it .

4. Place de la République

One of the largest central squares in Arles is the Place de la Rèpublique. In the center is the Obélisque d’Arles (“Arles Obelisk”), a 4th-century Roman obelisk erected in front of the Hotel de Ville (town hall) of the city.

It was first erected under the Roman emperor Constantine II (son of Constantine the Great) and doesn’t have any preinscriptions.

5. Cloître Saint-Trophime

Right across from the obelisk in Place de la Rèpublique is the entrance to the Cloître Saint-Trophime. This former ancient cathedral of Arles dates back to the 12th century.

It is in a romanesque and gothic style and is dedicated to the saints Trophime, Stephen, Peter, and John. Carvings of them can be seen inside the cloister, which has a large central courtyard to enjoy.

Inside, there are exhibitions on the history of Arles, as well as paintings and tapestries dating back to the Middle ages.

8. Thermes de Constantin

Along with gladiator sports and the theatre, the Romans were also very fond of the baths. Built in the 4th century, these baths were believed to have been constructed when Emperor Constantine I resided in Arelate as the city was known.

Nearly 3900sqm with grand arches and multiple levels, the bather was required to travel a circuit of hot and cold springs in an effort to restore good health.

The Thermes de Constantin are among the best preserved in France, along with the Thermes de Chassenon in Charente and the Thermes de Cluny in Paris.

8. Cryptoporticus

One of the most surprising roman sites still in existence in Arles is the Cryptoporticus. It has a hidden entrance inside the Hotel de Ville of Arles (city hall), and goes deep underground below the streets.

It can be quite tricky to find and is completely hidden from the world above. The area is a subterranean gallery dating from the 1st century BC, that was built as foundation for the forum and as a type of basement storage.

Inside you will see pictures of how the large square Place du Forum was at its height, culminating in the grand building that was meant as a meeting and market place.

9. Place du Forum

When you first get to the Place de la Forum, you are greeted with a statue of the French writer Frederic Mistral, who championed the local languages Occitan and Provençale .

However, in the background on the left, you will notice what remains of the ancient Place du Forum. This is the only portion above ground that has been preserved on the side of a hotel.

It is quite a few steps away from the Cryptoporticus, giving an indication of how grand the Place du Forum was in its heyday.

10. Cafe Van Gogh

Arles is also home to dozens of lovely restaurants with the finest of French cuisine , but there is one particular café that always attracts a lot of attention.

Located on one side of the Place du forum is a small restaurant on the ground floor of a bright yellow building. This was the famous cafe that was inspired Van Gogh’s painting Café Terrace at Night  (1888) .

The owners have maintained the same bright yellow awning and renamed the restaurant as Café Van Gogh. The restaurant serves a lot of the typical classics of Provençale cuisine , but doesn’t have the greatest reviews in terms of true gastronomy.

11. Pont du Gard

About 45 minutes away from Arles is the famous Roman aquaduct called Pont du Gard . Built over a period of 5 years in the 1st century, the aqueduct was built to carry water to over 50 km (31 miles) to the Roman colony of Nimes.

With 3 tiers of arches, it crosses the river Gardon and is the highest of all Roman aqueduct bridges, as well as being one of the best-preserved.

After the Roman empire collapsed, the Pont du Gard remained in use as it also served as a toll bridge for people looking to cross the river. The bridge remained mostly intact, with the Ducs of nearby Uzès being responsible for maintaining the bridge.

Rather than delivering water, the bridge instead became a tourist attraction, with everyone from French Kings to apprentice masons making their way to the bridge to admire its architecture.

In the early 2000s, traffic around the area was rerouted to preserve this UNESCO world heritage site and from pollution and maintain the tranquil nature of the area. Today, it is one of the most popular destinations in France.

You will need a rental car to visit, or alternatively you can book a tour with transport .

12. Camargue Nature Park

The Camargue national park near the city of Arles, is known for its unique wetlands and horse-riding culture that attract visitors from far and wide.

Located near the French-Spanish border, the locals have a culture of their own with a tradition and cuisine that is heavily influenced by its next-door neighbour, Spain.

From tapas to bull-fighting festivals, this is an area that is unique in France. The Camargue also has an eponymous horse breed, the famous white Camarguais which are raised in almost wild conditions.

The Camargue is also known for its sea salts that are produced by drawing seawater into marsh basins and allow the water to evaporate, leaving behind the salt. Some salt crystals float on the surface of the water, forming a delicate crust of crystals that is called fleur de sel . You can read more about taking a guided tour to the Camargue from Arles.

13. Alyscamps (Elysian Fields)

For history buffs, one of the most famous necropolises of the ancient world is located just outside the walls of the Old town of Arles. Romans required burials outside the city limits, hence the location.

This was Arles’ main burial ground for its well-off citizens for nearly 1,500 years and is located on the old Via Aurelian leading up to the ancient Arles city gates.

The name comes from the Latin Elisii Campi , which is in French “Champs-Élysées” and in English “Elysian Fields”. Alyscamps is open everyday and costs around €5 to enter.

14. Musée Réattu

Three days after Van Gogh moved to Arles in 1888, he visited Musée Réattu and wrote his impressions in a letter to his brother Theo:

“The women really are beautiful here, it’s no joke – on the other hand, the Arles museum is dreadful and a joke, and fit to be in Tarascon – there’s also a museum of antiquities, they’re genuine.” Van Gogh (original in French)

Thankfully today, the Réattu museum has a much better reputation. The museum owns over 800 paintings and drawings by French artist Jacques Réattu, but also features several works of Van Gogh, Picasso, and much more.

The museum is open everyday except Mondays and costs about €8 per person to enter.

15. Amédée Pichot fountain

Near one of the old gates to the fortified city of Arles, the Porte de la Cavalerie , you will find one the city’s most beautiful fountains called the Amédée Pichot.

It is dedicated to the historian and novelist Joseph Jean-Baptiste Marie Charles Amédée Pichot who was born in Arles in 1795. The area is also surrounded by a couple of lively restaurants with large terrasses that make a welcome spot for a drink or two.

If you are looking for provençale souvenirs to take back home from Arles, you will be spoilt for choice.

There are several items that are very popular with tourists and locals alike:

• Fleur de sel de camargue – Salt
• Riz de camargue – Rice
• Savon de lavande – Lavender soap
• Confit de fleur de violette – a type of jam made from violet flowers
• Miel de fleurs – honey made from flowers
• Vin des sables de camargue – wine
• Liqueur La Camarguaise – a digestif liquer
• Bière des gardiens – a beer made from rice from the camargue
• Caramel sel de camargue – salty caramels.

You can read more about other souvenirs from France here.

How to get to Arles?

The quickest way to get to Arles is by train as the city has a high-speed TGV train station with direct access from Paris and Marseille.

The closest international airport is in Marseille, from where it takes 50 minutes to get to Arles by train and 1 hour by car. You can also take a tour from Marseille , Avignon or Aix-en-Provence which follows in the footsteps of Van Gogh, visiting Arles, St. Remy de Provence, and more.

How easy is it getting around?

Much of the Arles town center is pedestrianized, with cars restricted to locals. Most of the main attractions are located close together, especially the Roman ruins, as important buildings were placed together in that era.

It can be quite easy to get around, however if you are heading over in the summer months, be aware that it gets quite hot and you will need a good hat.

How many days should you spend?

I recommend spending at least 2 nights in Arles, because there is a lot of see and do, especially if you are a fan of Roman history.

In addition there are several day trips you can take from the area, including the towns of Uzès , Nimes , Toulouse , Montpellier , Sète , Carcassonne , Martigues , etc. which are all within a couple of hours drive.

Where should you stay?

There are some wonderful hotels in the town center of Arles that will allow you to visit all the main attractions on foot.

• €€€ – H ô tel Spa Le Calendal – spa facilities
• €€€€ – Hôtel Arles Plaza – 15 minute walk from the center but has a swimming pool and jacuzzi.
• €€€€€ – Hôtel & Spa Jules César Arles – MGallery Hotel Collection – with swimming pool, hot tub, and sauna.

And if you enjoy a good paella, you will want to head to Arles during the 2nd week of September (as well as in April ) to celebrate the Feria de Riz, a festival that takes place to celebrate the rice harvest. There is bullfighting, celebrations and a true fiesta spirit that brings the tourists flocking to this side of the Pyrennées mountains.

If you enjoyed that article, you may like to read more about traveling around Provence . A bientôt!

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Vincent Van Gogh’s Bedroom in Arles Is Coming To Abu Dhabi

Louvre Abu Dhabi is hosting a fascinating new art exhibition called “Post-Impressionism: Beyond Appearances,” in partnership with Musée d’Orsay from Paris. Following the success of their previous Impressionism showcase, this exhibition delves into the era of Post-Impressionism, running from 1886 to 1905.

From October 16, 2024, to February 9, 2025, visitors can witness this captivating display. Yet, the star attraction undoubtedly is Vincent Van Gogh’s masterpiece, “Bedroom in Arles.” This painting provides a glimpse into Van Gogh’s life and his unique artistic vision, reflecting his time at the Yellow House in 1888.

For those unfamiliar with Van Gogh, he was a Dutch painter celebrated for his bold use of color and expressive brushwork. His legacy includes over 2,100 artworks, spanning various genres such as landscapes, still life, and self-portraits. Some of his most renowned pieces include “The Starry Night” and “Sunflowers.”

Van Gogh’s art goes beyond mere representation; it offers a profound emotional connection, inviting viewers to experience the world through his perspective. This exhibition not only celebrates Van Gogh’s artistic genius but also highlights the universal language of art in bridging cultures and generations.

Don’t miss the opportunity to immerse yourself in the brilliance of Van Gogh’s “Bedroom in Arles” at Louvre Abu Dhabi.

Entre sport, culture et émotions, une journée riche pour le retour de la Flamme dans les Bouches-du-Rhône

La quatrième étape du Relais de la Flamme offrait un nouveau crochet dans les Bouches-du-Rhône. Après l’arrivée de la Flamme et la première étape à Marseille, ce sont les autres lieux incontournables du territoire qui ont été mis en lumière jusqu'à Arles, ville-étape de la journée. Le Département, la Région Sud, la ville d’Arles et les Parrains officiels du Relais de la Flamme, Coca-Cola, Banque Populaire et Caisse d’Epargne ont participé à cette fête. La pongiste multimédaillée paralympique, Stéphanie Mariage, a allumé le chaudron en fin de journée !

Une nouvelle journée baignée par le soleil. Depuis son arrivée à bord du Belem, fameux trois-mâts dont Caisse d’Epargne est le mécène principal, la Flamme Olympique bénéficie d’un temps radieux, l’idéal pour poursuivre son long voyage jusqu’à la cérémonie d’ouverture le 26 juillet prochain. La Flamme a également retrouvé les Bouches-du-Rhône. Deux jours après avoir sillonné Marseille et mis en valeur ses sites iconiques, plus de 140 porteurs de la Flamme ont pu mettre en lumière toutes les autres merveilles de la nature et du patrimoine de ce territoire situé au bord de la Méditerranée.

Un clin d’oeil à l’un des Parrains du Relais

La matinée a débuté avec un passage de la Flamme devant l’usine Coca-Cola des Pennes-Mirabeau, pour remercier les collaborateurs de l’un des Parrains du Relais de la Flamme. A cette occasion, un relais collectif de 24 collaborateurs s’est déroulé et un village a été installé pour célébrer l’événement.

Des rivages de la Méditerranée aux portes de la Camargue

La Flamme Olympique a pris la direction de Miramas et notamment de son Stadium, prisé pour ses activités nautiques avant de rejoindre Aix-en-Provence. Après une déambulation dans le centre-ville, elle a atteint le fameux Cours Mirabeau et profité d’un peu de fraîcheur à la célèbre fontaine de la Rotonde. Le convoi s’est également rendu à Port-Saint-Louis-du-Rhône. Mise en lumière par la Région Sud, cette commune marque l’entrée vers la Camargue et son panorama à couper le souffle.

La journée s’est poursuivie à Istres, Eygalières et sa fameuse chapelle Saint-Sixt avant de rallier Arles. La commune étant la plus grande en superficie de France – sept fois plus grande que Paris – le parcours s’annonçait sportif. Il l’a été également parce que s’y est tenu un relais collectif organisé par la Fédération française de volley pour valoriser les 200 000 licenciés partout en France. L’ancien sélectionneur des Bleus, Laurent Tillie et l’ex-internationale Karine Salinas étaient les deux capitaines de ce relais collectif.

Parmi les autres sportives qui ont porté la Flamme ce jour: Virginie Dedieu , sacrée trois fois de suite championne du monde en natation synchronisée et médaillée de bronze aux Jeux olympiques de Sydney en duo, ou encore Victoria Ravva , ex-internationale française de volley d’origine géorgienne.

La culture et l’inclusion à l’honneur

Arles a pu offrir un spectacle riche en culture avec le passage de la Flamme par le Musée départemental Arles Antiques, par le musée dédié à Van Gogh puis à l’histoire de la ville (musée Arlatan). Elle s’est aussi rendue au théâtre antique, aux Arènes et devant l’impressionnante Tour Luma.

Le site de célébrations se situait un peu plus loin, quai Lamartine face au Rhône. Pour l’occasion de nombreuses animations étaient prévues, parmi lesquelles une performance de danseuse arlésiennes typiquement provençale, une autre performance réalisée par une troupe composées de 28 danseurs issus de 16 nationalités différentes à l’image de la diversité promue par les Jeux Olympiques. L’ancien footballeur professionnel Djibril Cissé, qui cumule 41 sélections en équipe de France et désormais dj a ambiancé le site célébrations avec un set qui a fait vibrer les spectateurs sur les quais. L’une des drag-queens les plus populaires de France, Nicky Doll était présente ce jour sur les routes d’Arles. La présentatrice de Drag Race France qui met son énergie au service d’une société plus inclusive et fait rayonner la France à l’international dans les compétitions de drag les plus réputées au monde a pu porter la Flamme sur ses terres des Bouches-du-Rhône.

Le para sport a encore une fois été à l’honneur, dans la vision de Paris 2024 d’ouvrir le relais de la Flamme Olympique à des athlètes et para athlètes. Dans leur rang ce samedi, on comptait Éric Dargent qui a créé une prothèse qui lui a permis de devenir vice-champion du monde d’handi surf, Romain Pecker-Goubin , para-boxeur ayant fondé une association pour se relever par le sport, mais aussi Emma Reymond , membre de l’équipe de France sourde de badminton ou encore Nicolas Savant qui pratique le para-tennis de table.

La dernière relayeuse de la journée était Stéphanie Mariage . La native de Villers-Semeuse est une grande championne de para tennis de table qui a remporté quatre médailles aux Jeux paralympiques dont deux en or.

Demain, la Flamme Olympique poursuivra son voyage sur le bord de la Méditerranée mais légèrement plus à l’Ouest. Direction une étape singulière, un triptyque entre trois villes de caractère : Millau, Sète et Montpellier

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