trek carbon 2100 review

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At a glance

Trek’s 2100 is an American-made rocket ship. With its ZR 9000/carbon frame and Bontrager carbon fork, the ride is ultra efficient for effortless speed and velvety smooth for all-day comfort. Small hills disappear beneath the Bontrager Select wheels and large ones seem easy as you attack them on this gossamer thoroughbred. Shifting is a thought-free process, too, with the Shimano 105 STI levers. Plus, a generous allotment of Bontrager parts will keep you rolling for years and Bontrager Race Crankset.

Where To Buy

Specifications

• Hubs See Rims/Wheels
• Chain Bontrager Select
• Handlebar Bontrager Select VR, 31.8mm
• Saddle Bontrager Race Basic

Q: How much is a 2007 Trek 2100?

A 2007 Trek 2100 is typically priced around $1,460 USD when new. Be sure to shop around for the best price, and also look to the used market for a great deal.

Q: What size 2007 Trek 2100 should I get?

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Expert opinion needed on a Trek 2100 road bike

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Yes, that's a 1999. In my view (totally subjective), that price seems a little high for a ten year old "lower-middle" offering from Trek, even if the componentry is in "great condition" (which you can't really tell from the pic). Shimano 105 isn't the bottom rung group, but it isn't really super special, either. Make sure you ask all of the basic maintenance questions: where was it kept (indoors or out)? how many miles ridden? What kind of miles (i.e., touring or racing miles)? was it ever crashed (crashes are a MUCH bigger deal for road bike frames than MTB)? Original cables or new ones? Greased and lubed? How often? Have the hubs/bottom bracket/headset ever been serviced? Original chain? Rust on frame/any of the components (if there's visible rust, then there may also be invisible rust)? Rims trued? etc. As you probably already know from your mountain bike, If you need to spend money to get the bike back up to current maintenance, you can quickly baloon the 180 dollar price to 300. Make sure you find some way to closely inspect the components and give it a test ride. the last thing you want is for your friend to bring it home and find out that the bottom bracket creaks like hell because it is cracked, or that the cables are rusted, etc. As far as sizing, I'm 5'11" and my 56cm 2010 Trek road bike fits me perfectly. I don't know how much the geometry has changed over the last 10 years, however. I'm in the same boat as you--I have a road bike out of necessity because I can't always get to the trails. The last thing you want is for your road trainer to give you all sorts of problems and take your money/attention away from your mountain bike!  

Oracle7775 said: Yes, that's a 1999. In my view (totally subjective), that price seems a little high for a ten year old "lower-middle" offering from Trek, even if the componentry is in "great condition" (which you can't really tell from the pic). Shimano 105 isn't the bottom rung group, but it isn't really super special, either. Make sure you ask all of the basic maintenance questions: where was it kept (indoors or out)? how many miles ridden? What kind of miles (i.e., touring or racing miles)? was it ever crashed (crashes are a MUCH bigger deal for road bike frames than MTB)? Original cables or new ones? Greased and lubed? How often? Have the hubs/bottom bracket/headset ever been serviced? Original chain? Rust on frame/any of the components (if there's visible rust, then there may also be invisible rust)? Rims trued? etc. As you probably already know from your mountain bike, If you need to spend money to get the bike back up to current maintenance, you can quickly baloon the 180 dollar price to 300. Make sure you find some way to closely inspect the components and give it a test ride. the last thing you want is for your friend to bring it home and find out that the bottom bracket creaks like hell because it is cracked, or that the cables are rusted, etc. As far as sizing, I'm 5'11" and my 56cm 2010 Trek road bike fits me perfectly. I don't know how much the geometry has changed over the last 10 years, however. I'm in the same boat as you--I have a road bike out of necessity because I can't always get to the trails. The last thing you want is for your road trainer to give you all sorts of problems and take your money/attention away from your mountain bike! Click to expand...

If the components are in good shape, I'd pay 150 for the '99 2100 before paying 300 for an '02 1000, hands down. All other things being equal, when you're only talking a few years difference, newer does not necessarily mean better so long as the frame is still sound, and the 2100 has a better component group. It's cool that you have someone who'll do the maintenance on the cheap. I was talking more about the cost of all of the "small" parts adding up: cables-$20; brake pads-$20; bottom bracket-$30; etc. Too bad that your friend doesn't know much about bikes. At the least I'd try to get some close up shots of the drivetrain, etc. from the seller. You might find some guys who will give you some additional advice over at roadbikereview.com. Good luck!  

Oracle7775 said: If the components are in good shape, I'd pay 150 for the '99 2100 before paying 300 for an '02 1000, hands down. All other things being equal, when you're only talking a few years difference, newer does not necessarily mean better so long as the frame is still sound, and the 2100 has a better component group. It's cool that you have someone who'll do the maintenance on the cheap. I was talking more about the cost of all of the "small" parts adding up: cables-$20; brake pads-$20; bottom bracket-$30; etc. Too bad that your friend doesn't know much about bikes. At the least I'd try to get some close up shots of the drivetrain, etc. from the seller. You might find some guys who will give you some additional advice over at roadbikereview.com. Good luck! Click to expand...

Unless he's done some incredible upgrades, that guy's nuts if he thinks an 8 year old bottom of the line trek bike is worth $450. I fell sorry for the sucker who ends up paying that much. Sorry that you missed out on the 2100, though, that sounded promising. Keep checking craigslist and Ebay--there are deals to be had. Good luck.  

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New: Take Part in the August Giveaway to Win the SAVA Aurora V3.0 Carbon Road Bike

(04-21-2015, 06:38 PM) painkiller Wrote:   Just kinda going thru some lost/deleted threads from the site make over. So I wanted to post some lost pics of this bike. Is she a beauty or what? Love the natural carbon weave, looks awesome in the sunshine!

20 YEARS AGO: LOOKING BACK AT THE 2004 WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS

THROWBACK THURSDAY: THE HISTORY OF THE SPECIALIZED STUMPJUMPER

• ELITE MEN’S AND WOMEN’S DOWNHILL QUALIFIER RESULTS AT THE UCI WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS

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A WICKED FAST HARDTAIL – TREK’S PROCALIBER GEN 3 CARBON

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For the rider who wants light weight and quick handling

With the introduction of the alloy-framed Gen 3 Procaliber earlier this year, it makes sense that Trek introduces a carbon version for riders who want to shave a few more grams. Designed to meet the needs of XC racers, NICA / IMBA athletes, and rugged gravel riders, it’s a bike that prioritizes a lightweight platform, quick handling, and high-value performance.

The main difference between the aluminum-framed Gen 3 Procaliber and the carbon version is the use of Trek’s IsoBow strut design in place of the IsoSpeed design. It brings the same benefit (increased seated compliance) but is lighter weight and simpler in its design. Increased seated compliance means less fatigue is transferred to the rider, which can lead to greater endurance and increased efficiency. It uses a unique design where the seat stays extend past the seat tube and into the top tube, essentially making it a single flex-tuned structure.

The geometry numbers are the same as the aluminum-framed Procaliber (as well as the full-suspension Supercaliber ), with a 67-degree head tube angle, 74.3-degree seat tube angle, and 120mm of front travel to help increase confidence and stability at higher speeds. There is now clearance for tires up to 2.4″ wide, and a floating rear brake mount helps isolate braking forces from seatstay flex, leading to increased comfort while bringing the Procaliber to a halt. It also helps with more consistent braking since it is not as affected by seatstay flex.

At the moment, only the Procaliber 9.5 is available in the United States. It’s built around a RockShox Judy GOLD fork, Bontrager Kovee double-wall wheels, and a Shimano Deore M6100 drivetrain priced at $2,500. There is also a frameset-only option for $2,000 if you want to build up a bespoke XC weapon.

For all of the details and to get your hands on the Gen 3 Carbon Procaliber, head on over to the Trek website .

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• Down The Trail

Trek’s new Procaliber gets updated geometry for gnarly XC tracks, but weighs more than the full-suspension Supercaliber

• Rebecca Bland
• August 29, 2024

The new carbon models also come with 120mm travel, more aggro geometry and clearance for wider tyres

Trek Procaliber Credit: Trek

Trek has launched its Gen 3 Procaliber carbon models, which come with increased fork travel, wider tyre clearance, lighter weight, and an updated geometry. The hardtail frame is now 150g lighter than the Gen 2, and Trek has also swapped the IsoSpeed tech for Isobow to reduce the number of moving parts.

Put that together and you have a top-end bike that weighs 10.6kg in size medium. That’s  not exactly light though, it’s around 100g heavier than the new full-suspension Specialized S-Works Epic 8 XC race bike in size large we tested back in the spring. And it’s nearly a kilo heavier than Trek’s own Supercaliber SLR 9.9 XX AXS Gen 2 we tested and weighed in 2023.

Trek’s Gen 3 Procaliber is race-ready, with more travel and a progressive geometry

We rated the Gen 2 Procaliber as one of the best cross-country mountain bikes around- in particular, one of the best hardtails. But that model used the IsoSpeed seatpost decoupler, so it will be interesting to see if the Gen 3 lives up to the same hype.

Trek Procaliber Carbon Gen 3 need to know:

• Three new carbon models: 9.5, 9.6 and 9.7 AXS
• Increased fork travel across the range, from 100mm to 120mm
• Now able to take 2.4in tyres
• Trek has used a floating brake mount, and removed the Knock Block tech
• Updated geometry for Gen 3, with a slacker head tube, longer reach and steeper seat tube
• IsoSpeed replaced with Isobow tech
• Prices start at £1,950 for the 9.5, and £1,400 for a frameset

The new Isobow design keeps things smooth without all the added complication of moving parts

What’s new on the Trek Procaliber Carbon Gen 3?

We love a good hardtail at MBR, they’re great for those looking to develop their handling skills or dip their toes into cross-country riding. And, they’re generally at a more accessible price point. We also loved the previous Trek Procaliber 9.7 , which we last reviewed back in 2020. It was one of the lightest XC hardtails around, even with the inclusion of the IsoSpeed tech. The new model, however, comes without the IsoSpeed decoupling tech that made the bike feel so smooth. But, it does now utilise a slacker and longer geometry that many modern hardtails are working towards.

Trek has launched the Gen 3 carbon models, with three options to choose from: the 9.5, 9.6 and 9.7 AXS. Trek says the new Procaliber aims to prioritise “light weight over comfort” and better handling over stability. The brand reckons it does this thanks to a few changes between the Gen 2 and Gen 3 bikes. For instance, the Gen 3 geometry has been subtly updated with a longer reach, a slacker head tube (now 67°, 1.8° slacker than the old bike) and a steeper seat tube (74.3° versus 73.8°).

Trek says in blind testing, riders couldn’t tell the difference between the old IsoSpeed decoupler and the new Isobow tech

Just as Specialized did with the Epic 8, Trek has also managed to increase the fork travel from 100 to 120mm. It’s also widened the tyre clearance to suit 2.4in rubber. Trek also says you’ll  find a floating brake mount, the same as the Supercaliber Gen 2 bikes, mounting the caliper on the the chainstay and the axle to stop it “hindering seatstay flex”, Trek says. Call me sceptical, but with no suspension and no pivots or brake-jack to overcome this could well be a non-issue. The Knock Block tech has been removed too, for weight saving.

Perhaps the biggest change, however, is the removal of the IsoSpeed decoupling technology. This is replaced by the Isobow, which Trek claims offers “80% of compliance of IsoSpeed, but in a lighter and simplified design with no moving parts.”

Essentially, the seat stays now extend past the seat tube to form the top tube, rather than using an internal decoupler to keep the seat tube separate. Trek also claimed that during blind trail testing that riders “couldn’t tell a difference in seated compliance” between the IsoSpeed and Isobow tech.

We’re getting all three models in the UK, unlike our North American cousins who only get the 9.5

Trek Procaliber Carbon Gen 3 specs and pricing

In the UK, we’ll be getting three new carbon models: the 9.5, 9.6 and 9.7 AXS. All three models use the same OCLV Mountain Carbon frame. The 9.5 option uses RockShox Judy forks and a Shimano Deore 12-speed groupset. The 9.6 comes with RockShox’s Reba RL forks, and a Shimano SLX/XT 12-speed groupset. The top-of-the-range 9.7 AXS has RockShox SID forks, and a SRAM GX Eagle AXS groupset. All come with a Bontrager Line Dropper and Bontrager finishing kit.

Full price list:

• Frameset – £1,400
• 9.5 – £1,950
• 9.6 – £2,350
• 9.7 AXS – £4,250

trekbikes.com

• Rider Notes

2025 Trek Procaliber C Frameset Gen 3

A 29″ carbon frame crosscountry frameset.

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Aug 2024 · Jordan Villella

Trek adds 120mm travel, swaps out Iso-Speed for Iso-Bow, and breathes new life into the SuperCaliber Hardtail Gen 3.

Read Review

Jun 2023 · Ben Haworth

Sure, you can ride the Trek Procaliber 9.6 whenever and wherever you like but the raison d’être of this bike is to perform between race tape.

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How much do different Treks weigh?

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Trek doesnt post their bike weights anywhere so does anyone know about how much the following bikes weigh: Trek 1500 Trek 2100 Trek pilot 2.1 (any comments on this? I can find any reviews) Bianchi Giro Thanx for this much needed help  

well while I dont know how much each one of those weights your going to see some substantal weight loss in the pilot series because its a full carbon frame. I do believe Trek is now putting carbon forks and maybe even carbon rear forks on the 2100 now which makes it a little lighter. You should test ride all these bikes if you can and make a decision based more on ride then weight. The pilot is a compact geometry frame while the others are not, the fit may not be what you prefer as it puts the rider into a more "race" type position more streched out where as the 1500 and the 2100 are a more relaxed fitting frame. Unless you are a professional rider the weight loss your going to see between these frames is NOT going to make you a totaly different rider based on weight loss alone. You are going to be better served in the long run selecting the bike the rides better for you and one you feel more comfortable on. Nothing worse then getting a new bike and then not wanting to ride it because it dosnt fit right after a short spin. All that being said try google for a website called weightweenies it has a TON of stuff listed by how much it REALLY weights not the manufacters listed weight. Good Luck Deastin  

deastin said: well while I dont know how much each one of those weights your going to see some substantal weight loss in the pilot series because its a full carbon frame. I do believe Trek is now putting carbon forks and maybe even carbon rear forks on the 2100 now which makes it a little lighter. You should test ride all these bikes if you can and make a decision based more on ride then weight. The pilot is a compact geometry frame while the others are not, the fit may not be what you prefer as it puts the rider into a more "race" type position more streched out where as the 1500 and the 2100 are a more relaxed fitting frame. Unless you are a professional rider the weight loss your going to see between these frames is NOT going to make you a totaly different rider based on weight loss alone. You are going to be better served in the long run selecting the bike the rides better for you and one you feel more comfortable on. Nothing worse then getting a new bike and then not wanting to ride it because it dosnt fit right after a short spin. All that being said try google for a website called weightweenies it has a TON of stuff listed by how much it REALLY weights not the manufacters listed weight. Good Luck Deastin Click to expand...

My bad, for some reason i was thinking Trek had introduced the Pilot as an answer to Giants TCR carbon lineup. While I m not Trek expert you are prolly right and I am prolly wrong. Such is life. Deastin  

deastin said: My bad, for some reason i was thinking Trek had introduced the Pilot as an answer to Giants TCR carbon lineup. While I m not Trek expert you are prolly right and I am prolly wrong. Such is life. Deastin Click to expand...

my 52 cm trek 1500 (2005) with some tank pedals 2 cages and a computer weighed in at around 20.25 lbs. a stock pilot 2.1 in a 56 (i think) weighed in about a pound more. I suspect the 2100 would be in the middle of the 2 since the frames of the pilot and 2100 are similar but the 2100 has a ligher fork, bar, stem and wheels than a pilot. The AL and carbon frames are going to weigh more than an all AL frame since the carbon is a little heaiver than the AL plus the glue they have to use to bond it into the frame.  

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Trek 2.1 Road Bike

Trek's 2.1 boasts a lightweight Alpha Black aluminum frame with a road-carving carbon fork. The hill-conquering Shimano drivetrain and Bontrager's SSR wheelset will have you rolling farther and faster than you thought possible. Plus, it sports a fine selection of Bontrager components, too, including a comfy saddle and a carbon seatpost.

• USER REVIEWS

Trek knows how to make a great road bike. The geometry is spot on, and the setup is right where it needs to be for a bike placed right under the carbon brothers. Very stiff and well suited for a larger rider. Concrete Pumping Modesto

Can't find any.

Lightweight, comfortable, plenty of gears.

Just bought this bike used (30 miles on it per owner), from the original owner for much less (about 1/3) of what was originally paid for it and Love it! I'm a newbie to road biking and this is my 2nd used bike purchase. I had this one fitted, changed the seat & bought pedals, clips & shoes. Huge difference after fitting and only cost $40 for fitting & $109 for new seat. I've been having a few issues with fatigue and hurting body parts so this should be corrected. The bike is in Mint condition and very fun to ride. Also love the blue/white color scheme. I highly recommend this bike if you can find used in the condition I did.

Similar Products Used:

Trek 2100 Pro Carbon

Strength- handles like a dream. Easy to work on. Very lightweight. Very fast compared to my Trek 7.2 Frankenstein bike lol

Had some creaks and clicks. ( fixed for now)

So this is an older bike, but it's my first legit Roadie.. I am 42 and started riding in1979 on a huffy progressing to BMX , Freestyle, and various Mtb over the years. I have been trying to destroy my trek 7.2 but it runs and runs - I am in Atlanta and that bike is a must have. Total chaos here. Anyways back to the review. Contacted a fellow off CL and agree upon date and time picked it up for $180 included computer and saddle bag. I almost couldn't believe it, but the guy had more $ than sense so I paid him and was on my way. I have ridden 50 miles this week on it and totally dig it. Very fast, nimble, light, looks cool. Decent components, good rubber, shifts well. Had a creak in it - was the pedals. Cleaned and lubed the cassette and chain, adjusted front derailers and am now good to go. I recommend this bike. It may be older but she has it where it counts.

A really light aluminium/carbon frame (2009 iteration). Relatively light RSS wheels. Speed Trap cavity in fork. Feels as if it wants to go. Lively.

The aluminium steerer, and that Bontrager stopped selling replacement forks for Trek road bikes. The Crane Creek IS40 bearings suck. The corrode too easily. I had to heat the headtube up to get them out last time and ruined the decals on the front. I aim to replace the 40s with stainless steel 110s eventually. The lack of availability of replacement rims and hub parts. A bit on the heavy side (mostly due to the group set: no-name aluminium/steel calliper breaks, tiagra shifters, front deraileur, FSA crank, tiagra cassette and 105 rear dérailleur. The lack of a 53/39 crankset option. Weight.

Stock, 2009 2.1 was heavier than it needed to be. I've had the bike stripped down to just the frame, minus the fork, and it is light as a feather. Since my purchase in 2009, I have replaced the group set with Dura Ace 7900 across the board, including the pedals. I have also gone through a number of saddles in an attempt to find comfort on long trips. I have settled and am happy with the Bontrager Affinity RS. Just those two changes have brought the weight of the bike down by four pounds. I am currently building a set of wheels with Stan's No-tubes rims, Tune hubs and Sapim spokes that should bring the bike down another few pounds. I am aiming for 17lbs. My greatest frustration is that fork. I would love to replace it with a full carbon fork, but Bontrager no longer advertises their sale. I assume because of liability issues. So I may opt for ENVE or 3T carbon fork, stem, handle bars/seat post combo to finish the bike off. Of course, we're talking a paint job on the white/apple seed blue fade . A shame. Overall, a good frame to build on! I wouldn't trade if for anything less then a Madone 5 series frame.

Good bike for first 1,000 miles. Easy to work on.

Uncomfortable saddle, Poor stock wheels and tires, Lack of durability in components. Overall lack of durability.

I bought this bike 3 years ago and have put over 5,000 miles on it. I immediately replaced the saddle as the stock saddle is really uncomfortable on long or multi-day rides. While it was a good bike for the first year or so, it has not held up well - I do not think it is a very durable bike. I've kept up with normal maintenance, but have had a lot of problems with the components over 3 years. I had to replace the wheels after about 1,000 miles - I am a 6'2" rider at 210 lbs and after 1,000 miles, they would not stay true - ended up with Mavic Ksyrium wheels and I love the Mavic wheels. The stock Bontrager wheels are way too flimsy for bigger riders. I've replaced the left shifter twice, the front derailleur once and the back derailleur once (as well as new chains every 1,500 miles and a new cassette at 3,500 miles). Every time I replace components, the bike works well for 250-500 miles but then starts shifting poorly or not shifting at all. Barrel (cable tension) and limit adjustments don't seem to fix the problem - it always ends up with component replacement. While this bike might be suitable for an occasional weekend rider, it just has not help up well for me. I've sunk well over $1,200 into repairs on this bike - with the money I've spent on purchase and repair, I would have been far better off to get a higher priced / more durable road bike. I am really disappointed in the lack of durability of the bike. I would not recommend this bike unless you have a shop nearby and a mechanic on speed dial.

Great frame, mostly good stock components, 105 groupset works for a beginner racer. Slick colors and graphics.

Wheels are heavy, saddle hurts on longer (> 40 mile) rides

I've now had my 2.1 for 2 years. This was my first proper road bike - before this I stuck to mountain bikes. I went for the H2 fit in a 50cm frame size (I'm 5'6" and weight 145 lbs). I lowered the stem one spacer to get a slightly lower riding position. The bike is fantastic. The frame is stiff, even while sprinting during criteriums. It climbs well, the ride is well damped, and handling is great. It can be a bit twitchy at lower speeds or while really sprinting hard and pulling on the handlebars (I figure most racing bikes are the same way), but it really rides beautifully when you just point it down a road and go. Cornering is very stable. This bike inspires confidence. Given what you pay for this bike, you are going to run into some compromises. The groupset is not 100% 105, but everything has held up well. The wheels are very, very heavy - I weighed the front wheel and I estimate it at a touch over 1 kilogram without tire and tube. However, they are sturdy wheels, and you can depend on them. (They also look pretty sweet.) Train with the heavy stock wheelset and switch to a lighter set for racing, and you'll really fly. The saddle is fine for shorter rides, but anything over an hour becomes painful. I'm now in the process of finding a good saddle for longer efforts. In summary, I love my bike. Yes, there are nicer, more expensive bikes, but for where I am as a novice racer and for a first road bike, this was a great choice and a great value. I would upgrade the wheels and saddle and save up for a dream bike, like a Time or Pinarello, but I'd still ride this one. It's a dependable companion.

Great bike/specs for the price. Like the 105 drivetrain - shifts well. Great starting intermediate bike with upgrade ability if needed. I got the H3 geometry - very comfortable with great handling.

Definitely stock saddle and tires. I only ride up to about 40 miles but after a handful of rides realized a more comfortable saddle was needed. Selle italia Flite as others have mentioned. I changed tires to Vittorio Pro Slick. Upgraded brakes to Ultegra after a good ebay find.

Mostly ride mountain bike but purchased the Trek 2.1 to help me lose some weight. Bike sat for a few months after I purchased but over the last 2 months I have been riding about 75 miles a week average over a couple rides. Dropped almost 30 lbs. Bike handles my 200 lbs no problem. Very cost efficient bike for me.

very agile when im off my saddle this bike flies.im a heavy set and this 2.1 can handle my legs with no problem. Takes me back to my racing days.

You don't need a very expensive bike. I can keep up to the so called pro riders that think that the bike makes the rider. But its the rider that makes the bike.

Good climber, sleak appearance

poor bontrager components, horrible saddle, heavy wheel set and tires

This is basically an advanced entry level road bike so for the price you have to expect that there will be some stock bike components that are cheaper and heavy. If you like riding fast I would definately recommend changing out the saddle, tires, and wheelset, which are all heavy. I upgraded to a sella italia flite saddle, reynolds solitude wheel set and conti gp 4000 tires, which all made a huge difference in the ride quality and speed. Overall though, I would recommend purchasing this bike if you don't want to break the bank on the purchase of a new bike and can upgrade components as time goes on.

Good value for the price.

Need to upgrade components to get weight down.

Bought this bike (red 2011) as a starter bike to use in triathlons. It works great! I upgraded the seat, handle bars, and wheels. I'm older and heavy set, but I am able to keep pace with a lot of the riders on carbon frames. The SSR wheels role quite good even though a bit heavy. I'm skeptical that a carbon frame is lighter unless you spend in the 3K range.

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