ford cruise o matic oil

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Cruise-O-matic does it have filter or screen, how many quarts to fill?

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I need to change the tranny filter in my cruise-o-matic and need to know if it has a cleanable screen or filter? Also how much fluid does it take and what kind? Can you also drain the torque converter? Thanks, BobG  

Hello, I just changed the transmission fluid on mine. The filter is a metal screen. I suppose it could be cleaned, but I just replaced it. Its about $7 at Kragen. I also use Valvoline ATF Type FA. Mine took about 4 quarts, but you might want to look in the owners manual for factory recomendation for your car if you have it, or I'm sure someone on this board knows. I don't know if you can drain the torque converter, but I am interested to find out. I don't think you can, but I could be wrong. My buddy said it is a good idea to change the gear oil as well in the rear. I need to figure out how or maybe someone who has done it before could explain. Hope that helps.  

Every time I pulled my tranny and didn't really drain the torque converter it took me about 8 qts at least to fill it back up again. But then that was totally pulling the tranny and some came out of the torque converter. I think there were plugs in the side kinda of mine to drain it. I don't know if they are all the same or not though. The rear, you would have to siphon out or remove the axle and jack one side of the car way up so that it can drain out that way. Or at least that's the ways I know of. I think they sell a siphon type thing for that purpose. Deb <font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ShotRod64 on 8/31/04 7:08am ]</font>  

To drain the converter remove the bottom inspection cover on the bellhousing, there will be an access hole in the flexplate that will allow you to remove the drain plug on the front (engine side) of the converter. You will have to rotate the engine to get the drain plug at the BDC position. Remove the plug and drain away, to keep things from getting messy make a little chute out of cardboard to keep the fluid from collecting in the bellhousing. Make sure your drain pan has enough capacity, completley drained(pan and converter) should take 10-12 qts. to refill. While you're at it disconnect the transmission cooling lines and blow them out with air, this can get messy, no sense contaminating your fresh fluid with the old stuff in the cooler. When you refill it put in about 6 qts. start it up and run it thru the gears and add the rest untill full. Tony <font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: UTRY on 8/31/04 9:56am ]</font> <font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: UTRY on 9/1/04 4:23am ]</font>  

Sounds like I didn't drain mine all the way. Mine actually took about 6 quarts after counting how many quarts I have left. I just let everything drip from where the filter was and didn't pull the transmission or mess with anything else. I need to get my hands on a manual myself.  

I was told that the new Dexron 3 tranny fluid is a replacement for the old type F fluid. Have any of you tried this ?  

I'll use that dexron 3 in my power steering, but with the luck i have with trannies I never use anything but the type F in them. If the tranny has been rebuilt not that long ago with new seals etc it would probably be fine. I just wouldn't take the chance if it hasn't. Deb  

On 2004-08-31 03:31, norcal500 wrote: Sounds like I didn't drain mine all the way. Mine actually took about 6 quarts after counting how many quarts I have left. I just let everything drip from where the filter was and didn't pull the transmission or mess with anything else. I need to get my hands on a manual myself. Click to expand...

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According to our sources, oil, coolant and fuel capacity for this version of 1959 Ford Thunderbird 352 Special V-8 Cruise-O-Matic are as follows:

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C-4 Cruise o matic Fluid level

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I have a 66 with a 289 and a c4 cruise-o-matic, it has the 11 bolt pan not sure if that matters but autozone claimed I had the other c4 with the 13 bolt pan... My problem is that when I try to refill the trans after a trans pan gasket the stick doesn't read any fluid till it's hot there is only an add mark and a full.... so I drained 2 quarts out I put 1 1/2 in(waited for it to come to full operating temp) then started to add slowly(like a few ounces of fluid) checking it after a few mins an then it goes from add to Tons of bubbles and 4 inches over full from just a small amount of fluid... I've tried a few times now but I wonder is the stick the right one, is the tube wrong, am I just stupid and need mental help? judge.gif I know for sure when I drained it it was over full on the stick and I caught it in a drain pan and measured the amount it drained 2 full quarts I didn't replace the filter. And I have owned the car for the last 20 years... I had it rebuild 10 years ago and never changed the fluid myself I had the trans shop do it. az.gif  

One trick I used after filling fluid was to go through the gears with the vehicle running then recheck it. It will then show an accurate reading.  

This is going to sound silly but look a both sides of dip stick and use the lowest reading.The dip stick is touching the tube on the way in and getting fliud on it,also try letting it sit 10 to 15 minuntes before checking  

The car must be at operating temperature and have been driven so the trans is at normal temperature, then park it on the level, leave it running, open the hood, get back into the seat and shift it through each gear and wait for it to engage before going to the next, then do the same working your way back to park (this fills the servos), once in park, remove the dipstick and wipe it and reinsert it fully then remove it and look at the fluid level on both sides of the dipstick, the lowest one is the actual level and compare it to the markings for the level whether it is within normal or too low or too high. This it the proper procedure for checking the fluid level. Since you were filling the transmission, this many times adds air also, if the dipstick is at the add mark, that is one pint from the add to the full mark, if you add too much fluid you get the fluid too high in the transmission and the rotating assembly gets air wiped into it also. So the best thing to do if it has a lot of air in it, is to let it sit for either several hours or a day, then check you fluid cold, it should be low and may barely read on the dipstick, if it is near the add mark do not add any. Since the trans holds between 10 1/2 pints to 11 1/2 pints it expands a lot from cold to normal operating temperature almost a quart. Run it through the different ranges, PRNDLLDNRP, then recheck, if it doesn't read on the dipstick at all, add 1/2 PINT, and recheck, until it just reads on the dipstick, it will still probably low, but you have to get the transmission up to temperature. IF it feels like it goes into the gears okay, then take it for a short drive locally not on the freeway, then find a level spot and recheck your level. Good Luck.  

rex1965 said: ...Since the transmission holds between 10 1/2 pints to 11 1/2 pints... Click to expand...

I would agree with everything Rex mentioned. It needs to have enough fluid in it to be drivable before you can check the fluid level. Other years were different for but a '66 it should not hold any more than 9 quarts (8 qts, 27 oz per the shop manual). A complete refill on my '66, 289-C4 only takes about 8 quarts. After the first 4 quarts you have to start the engine for a few minutes between quarts or the ATF will run out of the vent pipe onto the floor. If its the one that came from the factory in '66 it will only have 11 bolts in the oil pan.  

Hey Ivy, I m taking MY 65 289 V8 WITH Cruise-O-Matic Trans. to the shop this coming Monday AM to have Fluid changed along with filters and the two seals(small one and the big one-one inner and small one outer) replaced at same time as it is leaking some now on the shifter rod shaft. Two problems they don't have Motorcraft type F ATF fluid. Said they would probably use mercon 5 in it. Is this a good idea. I know type F ATF is avaialbe from some places yet. They are dropping pan and changing fluid as the tranny pan is in need of a new gasket also. Yhey will adjust Bands at that time if needed they said. Now how many quarts will it take to refill it when they are done. I need an answer if possible asap as time is short as you can see. Please email me [email protected] with your answer and thoughts. Also when I take it out of park and put in reverse it has started to make a little noise as it starts to back up and it feels like you have the parking brake on and I have to work it from park to Low and back to reverse several time to get it to start to back up freely. There is no strain at shifter handle during this. Then it may go a day or two and be fine overtime. ??? Then here it comes again. I checked the shifter rod mechanism and it is not loose or slipped ??. Thanks Ivy66, Doug Styers  

It must have had air in the system. I drained some out for the second time and ran it through the gears checked the stick and drove it. Was low again so I topped it off and 200 miles later it's still ok.Thanks for the replies, I've finally got this project rolling again. mexican.gif  

Silverfox1932, you need to start a new thread for your problem, the other one is over 2 years old. And to answer your question, you must use ATF type F in your transmission, it is still available, and the torque convertor needs to be drained also, it has a drain plug accessible when the inspection cover is removed on the bellhousing, you may have to turn the engine over a little to see it. If you don't use ATF type F, you run the risk of damaging all the seals, the clutches, and bands, which in turn may cause more damage. My 2 cts. Good luck.  

If you are in the US Type F is available at any auto parts store.  

As I stated in the prior comment from 2 years ago, my stock '66 C4 only uses about 8 quarts to refill even when you drain the torque converter. Type F is available everywhere in the US, even at Walmart. If your shop can't find it you may need to find another shop that tries a little harder. A '66 has no real 'filter'. There is a wire mesh screen that keeps odd nuts and bolts from circulating but its a long way from what most would call a 'filter'. Idle speed is the thing that most affects how a C4 shifts into gear. If your idle is much above the factory spec of 500 RPM you won't have a very smooth engagement. At 500 RPM it will go into gear so smoothly and quietly that you won't even know that it happened.  

My Cruise-O holds 11 quarts. But it's for a bigger car. Cast iron case, longer clutch packs. Truly a masterpiece of engineering.  

Yes, how much oil was in a C4 depended greatly upon what car, engine and year. The 8 qts I mentioned is for a factory '66, 289 C4 similar to what the OP mentioned in 2014. For a 6-cyl car in '66 the shop manual says the oil capacity was another quart less than for the 289s. More HP through the C4 generates more heat and adding more oil is a cheap way to try and keep the C4 oil temperature down for the cars with more HP. To do that requires a different and larger oil pan so that the fluid level stays about the same.  

I'm guessing that the cases for the bigger cars and trucks are larger too. When I bought a rebuild kit it shorted me a couple of clutch disks, so my stacks are longer, which I assume would require a longer case. These older automatics have a vent/ overflow port on the top. To keep mine clean on the outside I've installed a rubber hose on that to carry excess fluid to the pavement. If I overfill the transmission even a little bit Type F runs right out of that hose. So Ford wants these things almost completely submerged in fluid.  

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Fordomatic Transmission Identification

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The 1955/56/57 Thunderbird automatic transmissions had two different extension housings. The 1955 and 1956 models shared the same housing for the air cooled as well as the water cooled transmission. The 1955/56 type is pictured on the right. The hole for the speedometer cable housing and gear angles down into the housing on the 1955/56 models. The 1957 model is pictured on the left. The hole for the speedometer cable housing and gear angles up into the housing on the 1957 models.

• 1955 – PMB -C
• 1956 – PAW – C, air cooled
• 1956 – PAW – F, water cooled
• 1957 – PBA – C, 4V
• 1957 – PBA – E, S/C and 8V

The first Cruise-o-matic (C/M) 3 three speed dual range transmissions were built in 1958. During 1958/59 their were twelve different applications of the C/M transmission. Most if not all can be adapted to the 55-57 Thunderbirds. The shifter lever must be correct, the output shaft housing must be the correct length and the bolt pattern to the bell housing must be as follows. Top holes 8″ from center to center, bottom holes 11″ center to center and bottom to top 5 5/8″ center to center.

In 1960, 61, 62 the C/M transmission was not available. The following transmissions were available FM, FM 2, FX light duty, MX heavy duty. Most of which could be adapted to the 1955-57 Thundebirds.

In 1963 the C/M reappeared in the 1963 Thunderbirds it had a vacuum modulator to promote a smoother shift. 1963 was the last year the C/M transmissions were used. The following is a list of C/M transmissions I.D. number by year:

• 1958 – PBM – D, PBL – E & F, PBB – M, PBL – U & V
• 1959 – PAZ – L & T, PBM -J & N, PBL – U & V, PBB – M,
• 1963 – PCE – L & Y, 3904V, PCE -R & AC, 390 6V

The following C/M transmissions can be found in trucks:

• 1959 – PBC – F& H, PAU – G, H, J & K these were coupled to 6 cyl engines. PBW – C & E, PPY – C, E, D & F were used with 292 engines.
• 1960 – PBC – K, PAU – J & K were used with 6 cyl engines. PBW – G, PBY – E & F were used with 292 engines.
• 1961 – PBC – M, PAU – L & M, 6 cyl, PBW – K, PBY – G & H 292 engines.
• 1962 – PBC – M & R, PAU – L & M, 6 CYL. PBW – K & L, PBY – G & H. 292 engines.
• 1963 – PBC – R & M, PAU – L & M, 6 Cyl engines. PBW – L & K, PBY – G & H. 292 engines.

Some of the C/M transmissions are easy to convert by changing the shifter lever, look for the correct bell housing bolt pattern and output shaft length. In addition to the C/M transmissions their are several other automatic transmission that can be adapted including the FMX and C4.

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